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c9zx

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c9zx last won the day on September 7

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    1972 Mach 1 Q code
    2007 GT
    1969 Cougar Eliminator B302
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  1. I would advise against Fel-Pro "Print-O-Seal" gaskets, especially intake gaskets. They should be renamed "Print-O-Leak". Good luck with the project. What is the track car in the background? Chuck
  2. If you have the specs you might try Bullet Cams. https://www.bulletcams.com Or http://www.camresearchcorp.com Chuck
  3. If it ran good when removed and it has been stored inside it may need nothing. I assume you have made sure it can be turned over by hand. If you have access to a leak down tester, spray some lubricant in the spark plug holes and run the test. It will tell you a lot about the condition of the rings and the valve sealing. Since the oil pan is off I'd look at a couple of rod and main bearings. If they look good, put them back on with new aftermarket nuts. Burnish them before final torque. A good visual inspection will tell you what you need to know, Plasti-Gauge is a waste of time in my opinion. If the bearings are good the chances are the cam bearings are good as well. If it has the Nylon/Plastic teeth timing set replace it a decent aftermarket part. Chuck https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/auto-care/vehicle-maintenance/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test
  4. I want a set of the glass spark plugs, very cool stuff. Chuck
  5. For those who have EVs, what happens to the range when you turn on the heater and heated seats? How much does it change the range if it is on for one hour? Chuck
  6. Here you go. https://www.npdlink.com/product/hose-clamp-kit-pinch-type/181554?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D380882-SAK%252C%2B%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D Chuck
  7. It sounds like the limiter plastic caps have been removed, a good thing. Follow the procedure at the end of the page you attached, "Normal idle fuel Settings" You'll need a vacuum gauge to optimize the mixture screws accurately. You can try going by sound, idle speed, and smell. The flooding when hot is likely caused by fuel percolation, gas being boiled out of the bowl and into the intake, 4300D is famous for this problem. You could try lowering the float level a bit to mitigate the problem. Good luck. Chuck
  8. What, you don't like Opel GTs? Chuck
  9. I have heard good things about the Trick Flow Power Port 351C heads but, it is still going to be over $2K for the heads. The iron 4V heads (big and small valves) make good power with only a good valve job. Chuck
  10. Sorry for my brain fart on top vs. bottom of the spring. It is the bottom of the spring as it is installed, the pigtail end. I was picturing cutting the spring so the pigtail was on the top, when the spring is upside-down. Perhaps I should look into getting some Prevagen, my CPU has a lot of miles on it. Chuck
  11. It is a very nice looking Opel GT. Chuck
  12. If Meyers will give you a refund you might consider a Cloyes part. Chuck https://www.cloyes.com/high-performance/street-billet-true-roller-timing-sets/
  13. Good looking tool boxes! I'm going to use the picture to convince my wife that I need another tool box, thanks. Chuck
  14. As others have said, the cam is not aggressive enough to cause that large a drop in RPM when in gear. Checking for vacuum leaks as Hemi suggested is a good idea. If none are found, check initial timing advance. It should be about 16 degrees advance without any centrifugal advance. If that does not help very much then it is likely a carb adjustment or calibration issue. How much manifold vacuum does it have in Park and Drive? What do the spark plugs look like? With everything properly adjusted, with that cam, you should see a 150-200 RPM drop when placed in Drive. Chuck
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