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Finmach

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Posts posted by Finmach

  1. Hi Iku64,

     

    nice Mustang you got there, have you joined the FMOC Finland? There's a some information about these cars but not as much as here. I don't follow FMOC forum much, I did followed it for long time though. This is a great forum to ask specific '71-'73 questions.

     

    Greetings from South-West Finland

     

    Jari

  2. C6 is one heavy puppy when comparing to Toploader. C6 is also a power robber, it takes more hp than Toploader. Surely it changes quicker, but otherwise I am not thrilled about the C6. If you want to go fast, you might want to search for a C4. It can be build to hold great power and it wont cut your hp level from the engine. Its been said that C6 chews around 80 hp. If money is not an object, there is a extreme automatics in states that makes Th200R4 for BBF usage, it can hold up to +1000 hp with some great features like super light weight, overdrive, good gear ratios and yet it is very small package. Only bummers are it gm and it is not cheap. There are three of those here in Finland behind 521-598 cid engines.

    I have an extra dominator hood for 71-73, it's here in Finland. I've got also a front glass bumber for '71-'72, they are for sale locally at the moment. I also have for sale a forged 532 cid kit and thick web 429 block just to mention... ::) Dominator 4500 victor jr also, it'll fit under the Dominator hood...  

    If you would like to hold your original hood, then the Torker II is not actually that bad. Many cobra guys use it and its not bad intake in 429/460. If you want a next to perfect street/strip shocks I can give you a contact information for a Finnish stock car driver. He is using Koni shocks as a platform and he knows how to make them work on street/roads/strip. They were not exactly cheap but I was only told "not to touch the adjustments" and I've been happy on curvy tarmacs and on strip. With 29.5x9-15 drag slicks my Mach lifts it's front tires with manual transmission. Very steady 1,7s 60ft. Runs 11s on quarter. Using cal-tracs, Grab-a-track 4 1/2 leaf springs and around 286 lbs front shocks, rollerized spring perches and subframe connectors. With this combo I like the car on street and on a countryside. It is no Le-Mans suspension but those shocks made it work good.

    See you later and all the good with your project.

  3. I will be taking a chance on the block but I am leaning towards doing it.  Are these the best OEM 460 heads I could go with?  I know the 429 CJ heads are better  but way out of my budget.

     

    thanks

    Wade

     

    D0VE-C cylinderheads are the most sought after 429/460 heads after the 429 CJ heads. D0VE-C heads provides you a small cc combustion chamber 72cc which is small in the world of BB engines. You can get a good compression ratio with flattop pistons, no need to go heavy domed pistons. As the guys said, these heads also works good with small 429 cid engines and they can be ported & opened up to 750 hp range if so desired. 

     

    Hopefully the heads are undamaged, I mean a broken rod can lead to piston to head contact.

  4. I am using a McLeod throw out bearing with McLeod Street twin clutch assembly. I fabricated the pedal cylinder from a Mercedes Benz W123 or W124 clutch pedal assembly. I bought a new MB clutch cylinder and installed it to assembly. I took the brake pedal off and used the Mustangs original brakepedal. I only fabricated a bracket for the assembly. Been using that ever since and the service parts are basically free from the MB catalog.

     

    No need to place the cylinder to the heated enginecompartment. I only made a pressure line from cylinder to the the throw out bearing. I placed the hydraulic clutch reservoir in the enginecompartment above the pedal cylinder. It was worth of fabricating, I would do it again if needed to.

     

    picture is only for a reference

    DSC00315.JPG

  5. Great!! Am I mistaken, but somehow I have missed pictures from the ready car & hood outside the carage?? :)

     

    I visited with my family Kolmården on last Thursday - Friday and we really enjoyed all the animals and the world largest roller coaster made out of wood. Weather was great. I saw only one new 2017 Mustang and one '69 2dht Coronet but otherwise a great trip!!

  6. What's the status with the car? 

     

    I visited Jon Kaase Racing Engines at GA last year. There were a bunch of new B9 heads on shelf and he also had an ol' IHRA prostock 816 inch big muthur laying on the ground. It was for sale... I was seriously thinking for a few seconds that would I dare to ask mr. Kaase that how would it run when detuned / stunned to the street.

  7. 600 hp, isn't that more than you're originally thinkin off? Not that is a bad thing though, nice to have more power - allways. It should be fun car with that hp level, if you can make it hook rightly it should fly to low 11s on quarter or in best case scenario to very high 10s. 11s should be available with some practice. 

     

    Allways happy to see high hp Mustangs around, just remember to kick some chebby a$$ once she's up'n'running.

  8. In January I got my first AR15 riffle. It uses DPMS upper & lower, Armalite bolt & carrier, Lothar stainless 18" Barrel, Jard trigger, 15" parallax tactial ultra slim rail, Burris reddot and Meoptra RD 1-4x22 scope. I absolutely love it and the lack of recoil is amazing. I use it as my main competition gun at the moment. At the same time I got a gen 4 MOS Glock 34 9x19. I was going to get a STI DVC but our local distributor & importer cannot get them as much as there would be a demand so ended up to another polymer framed pistol. I can't blame it though, works good and with with some TLC with magwell, Dawson sights and ZEV trigger it came out pretty good. Magazines are basically free and there's huge selection of parts for the Glock. 

     

     

    Happy shooting guys!

     

    IMG_20170213_210938_zpseiegydaz.jpg

  9. Just a little update here from Denmark and from the enginebuilder Ville in Finland. All the parts has arrived at his place, the rotating parts are being balanced today and the block are ready to be assembled. It should be ready in about a month. I'm so excited! :D

    The body are still waiting in the rotesserie, found some more sheet metal in the trunk that needs to be replaced. They have repaired the trunk floor with cutting out that area where the rust were and then added a complete new trunkfloor on top of that, then spot welded and fiberglass around that! It looks like shit and I dont want that in the bottom of the car when I have spent so many $$$ on new high end parts :D

     

    You're in good hands with Ville from Finland. He knows his SBF stuff as well as Ford FE and 429/460 stuff. SBF is his real expertise. You can see his restored 390 cid '66 GTA Fairlane, its on original import car from 1966. How much of hp are you looking for Daniel?

  10. I'll be damned. I checked the rulebook NHRA and national Finnish Hot Rod Association's (FHRA) rulebook - uses the same picture as above. Spacers are allowed. But, they do not mention a word from spacers like prospacer which are bolted on. Rulebook only states the text above that the studs needs to be long enough.

     

    Obviously they are allowed too since they are not banned?? On road racing circuit I've seen as the prospacer does not hold the wheel attached. But that is a whole different motorsports.

     

    Intresting for sure. Ford Fairmont guy you mentioned above has been on 11.002s on quarter and it's been beaten to "death" for many years. If there are spacers in that car, gosh they are GOOD spacers. I have driven the car 160mph in the past, it surely is capable of doing low 11s on quarter and 166 mph on standing mile, its funny car (it only needs a bigger engine - owner is planning a 427w with P-38 heads from Kaase).

     

    Have you mocked up the wheels/tires yet?


    I am not able to modify my last message, but I need to make a correction.

    Ford Fairmont guy is not beaten to death many years but his car has been beaten!! :whistling:

  11. A guy in Finland will make me a third member for the 8" rearend so I can have that done too on my list. Then I can get all the suspension installed when it arrives!

    Talked with the "guy from Finland", he said that the 8" rearpiece is probably the strongest in whole Europe. Nice.

     

    Wicked looking rear tires, make sure to slam the rear to the weeds so the low profile tires looks good.

  12. Do the first mock up without spacer. Just check how it sits, if it contacts the inner wheel well then don't install the stud bolts.

     

    Eibach is one the best manufacturers for the spacers. But, all the sanctioning bodies does not allow to use wheel spacers f.ex. NHRA. Now wonder why? Because the might broke and then it's a possible problem.

     

    Paint the spacers black from the parts you can see them so probably no one will not notice it f.ex. On a drag strip day.

  13. 1" spacers, Plus 400hp & bb torque, manual, drag slicks... Are you using pro spacer style spacers which are bolted in or are you running 3" studs? I am not feeling comfortable with the spacers, slicks and strip combination. Might work and can also rip the studs out of aluminum spacer.

     

    Driveshaft safetyloops can be welded from a round profile pipe and have them welded between the front frames and same to rear depends too how the frames are connected. Friend of mine did similar setup from chromemoly to his '73 Mach1 and it came pretty good. He lives at Ylojarvi I can arrange you a garage visit if you want to.

  14. 30x9-15

     

    two possible way to read, diffrence comes by the usage of a tire.

     

    Drag tire

    30 = is the height of the tire

    9 = thread width

    15 = rim diameter

     

     

    street tire

    30 = is the height of the tire as above

    9 = section width

    15 = rim diameter as above

     

    For example my M/T ET Drag tires #3056ST are made for drag racing. They are told to be 29.5x9-15. Their thread is 8.9" and the section widht is 11.4". According this my 29.5x9-15 drag tire equals 29.5x11.5-15 street tire.

     

    Take a look from here:

    First hoosier I was able to find, thread is 9" and section is 11.8", that equals 30x12-15 street tire.

    http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hoo-18209

    Tire Diameter: 29.50 in.

    Section Width: 11.80 in.

    Tread Width: 9.00 in.

    Minimum Recommended Wheel Width: 8.00 in.

    Maximum Recommended Wheel Width: 10.00 in.

    With drag tires you don't want to run with 7" wide wheels, 15 x 9 wheel would be a perfect match.

     

     

    here's similar tires as my Mach 1 uses:

    http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mtt-3056st

     

    Just food for thoughts.

  15. 30x9-15

     

    two possible way to read, diffrence comes by the usage of a tire.

     

    Drag tire

    30 = is the height of the tire

    9 = thread width

    15 = rim diameter

     

     

    street tire

    30 = is the height of the tire as above

    9 = section width

    15 = rim diameter as above

     

    For example my M/T ET Drag tires #3056ST are made for drag racing. They are told to be 29.5x9-15. Their thread is 8.9" and the section widht is 11.4". According this my 29.5x9-15 drag tire equals 29.5x11.5-15 street tire.

     

    Take a look from here:

    First hoosier I was able to find, thread is 9" and section is 11.8", that equals 30x12-15 street tire.

    http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hoo-18209

     

    here's similar tires as my Mach 1 uses:

    http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mtt-3056st

     

    Just food for thoughts.

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