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Everything posted by Finmach

  1. John, when you'll hit to Finland? Let me hear the dates, I can check is there any possibilities to meet or arrange few ponies to salute you. -Jari-
  2. Higgins, car was for sale 2-4 years ago in Sweden and the pricetag was somewhere in 40 grand at that point (35.000 €). Swedes does not let the good one's get off their hands (they're smart people!). If it would have been original it would have been costed then 60 grand (50.000€). IMO, this particular Cobra eventhough its original Cobra 429 it's not worth of the money been asked. Original price tag back in the Sweden made me tickle for sure but now the pricetag is not in the right area, way too expensive. There is also some misinformation for sure, it was sold as a 521 cid when I was looking at it. ET calculator is software, in real life 650hp would be high 10 or low 11s @ quarter mile. 140 mph does need more than 650 hp, my friends car has 1050hp with 3400 lbs it scoots to 142 mph and it's got a prostreet suspension. Place an offer for 30.000 € and start negoating from there. If you'll end up buying it, I can take the ol' filthy beaten up 521 cid off your hands for nothing - such an old parts... :angel: My friend at Friendsville TN has a stack of 429 CJ/SCJ ready to be done as original as it gets. Date coded parts are a pain in a butt but if not so important they can be done easily to match the original engine. BTW Higgings, are you coming to Ford Nationals this year?
  3. Sweet! Gotta love the tunnelram and the velocity stacks looks wicked and TALL. Mad max sounds like a plan, just remember to wear leather helmet. I've got to ask that is your t-ram std. height and are you using SB or bb framemounts? I have tunnelram on shelv, two throttle bodies in shipping and a dominator hood waiting for the right timing, surely hoping to pack everything under the fiberglass. Gonna get interesting mock-up for the aircleaners... Nice project you've got, needs only taller tires ;)
  4. I'll believe that the engine is 1972 460 cid. Cylinderheads indicates D2VE which is from 1972. Not the best 429/460 heads, but othwerwise great core for hiperformance build.
  5. Ok, I hope you got the problem sorted out. Electric fuel pumps really needs to mount lower than the fuel cell&tank. Inline pumps are thick IMO, so I've been using "canister" style like this: Mainly because the inlet & outlet of the pump is located to the lowest possible point - it makes it easy to install it so that inlet of the pump is lower than the outlet of the fuel cell&tank. I'm in the middle of converting my Mach1 to EFI and going to use twin Bosch 044's. They are nearly famous of that they don't create any suction, so the positioning will be under the tank with two existing AN8 lines or even two AN10 lines will be feeding the pumps. Fuel problems can be tricky, but if you've got the fuel pressure gauge installed after the regulator it should give you the answers to the fuel problem.
  6. For me it sounds like your timing is not as it should from the beginning. It pops in the exhaust in the very first seconds. It can be the microphone or my laptop speakers but for my ear its not as it should. When you park the car are you touching the distributor & adjusting the timing? After you pop the hood and wait few secs your timing goes way too retarded and starts to pop in exhaust. I would start by checking your timing. Hope you got the problem fixed.
  7. Done it with 3 1/2" exhaust. 2 1/8" headers with 3 1/2" collector. 3 1/2" flex couplers, 3 1/2" x-pipe, Delta 40's and 3 1/2" over axle with stainless exhaust tips. Flex couplers does their job so the exhaust was done very rigid, you can do pull ups by hanging from the pipes. Picture is taken in the early pages of the Mach 1, there's the gravel shield still been mocked-up, there's the ol' 9" rear etc. I made the exhaust for the blower usage, otherwise the 3" would have been wiser IMO but it can be done with 3 1/2" - it is very streetable with stock height rear. With 2" lowering the exhaust was too close to the rear housing and it was way too low. With 1" lowering leafs it was streetable, only after I changed to sheetmetal rear housing with back braces the exhaust over's are close to hit to the bracing. If I would still have the original rear with 1" lowering - no problemo. Once I change the delta40's to dynomax ultraflows I'll make more room for the axle over's since there is room to be used. You'll notice the fuel cell casing, it's narrower than the orginal fuel tank, so it gives you some extra clearence too.
  8. Dude, you just called my Mach 1 a turd!! :D So far only I’ve called it a turd, my friends call the scoop a “play house”. To be honest, I wouldn’t cut the hole anymore, would have been wiser to get an another hood when I was sawing the hole. But back then I was a flat broke student. But in your case if you can get a dirt cheap ram air with aircleaner hole I would buy it right away. You could try to cover the hole with low profile app. 1985 GT Mustang scoop, its wide and low profile, could work. Or if you don’t want the third scoop get a blower or tunnelram :) As stated above if you don't like it, then swap it to new or uncut ram-air hood and sell the ol' one.
  9. If you can have the cutted Ram-air hood next to nothing then go and grab it! Have a third scoop and bring it on!!! You’ll always get a good discussion about why did you cut a hole to your ram-air hood… :D I did a hole to my ram-air hood but kept the sawed off piece just in case so the hood can be restored if so desired. Its not an big deal to tig weld it together since the lower part is still intact so it can be done perfectly even from the underside. I am not going to restore it though but I do also have the UP22/Dark Horse fiberglass products Dominator hood with the 3" cowl. I have not test fitted it yet but will do it in few months – I’ll have it painted to match the car. I’ll show you pics once done. I am switching to different intake combo so I don’t want to cut my Ram-air hood anymore than it is now. Now I have the tall Boss 429 scoop installed as third scoop to ram-air hood, I like it but hate it when need to turn right… Otherwise I like my third scoop, but its mainly my problem, if I would always have done as other people tells me to do, I would be enjoying the 351c with automatic – nothing wrong with it though but it’s not my thing. If you can throw the hood to my haulier Timmonsville SC I’ll buy the hood from you in case you don’t like it.
  10. I had also a stock MC and tall Ford Racing VC's and had no interference, not much space but enough - no worries about that. You can also lift the VC off without a swet. There's a humongous space between the MC & VC and from here you can see the available space for the spark plug removal. I am using the original powersteering hoses and they are very long in my car, so you can allways move them away while changing plugs. Duke asked about my March alternator bracket. March instructions says that you'll need to mount the alternator above the bracket. I wanted the weight of the alternator down and to get more cleaner looking enginebay so I dropped the alternator under the bracket. Very doable, but need to keep the adjusting rod long so the cooling fan of the alternator doesn't interfere with the bracket. Adjusting rod can be mounted to the block with long enough bolt. I can't remember correctly the threat or what bolt I got, but I bought it from a local US-service, it was probably a hardened starter bolt of GM engine or similar... not sure. I could have made a nicer solid spacer for the installation but was limited on time. It worked then app. 6 years ago and still going strong.
  11. Duke, what a great post! Spark plug drill is not something to be scared as you can see from your excellent video. When your hood is on, you’ll only need to bend under the hood. I am using MPG head Service Montecarlo bar & brace quick release system, you can remove the MPG braces in 20 seconds. Export brace kit costs 199 bucks and with the t-handles add 60 bucks - I love the product, quick removal of braces. http://www.mpgheads.com/export_brace.php I am using the original brakebooster with original brake mastercylinder. With the Ford Racing “bath tub” tall covers it’ll be short of an inch clearance between the MC and VC – tolerable for sure. You can make some extra room for the sparkplug removal by choosing different valvecovers. If you’re not using a valvetrain stud girdle then I would look for different shape covers like these 30-40 bucks covers. Moroso: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-68131/overview/ Trick Flow: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tfs-44003/overview/ Or you can use Blue Thunder Auto Competition valvecovers, they’re super nice but the price tag is higher than the other above since running around $300.00US. Here’s few shots with the Blue Thunder covers – it really gives you almost the same space as removing the covers and if any meaning it makes huge space between the MC and the cover - you could use wider MC if needed in some applications. --------- edit: wrong link and forgot to mention the braces
  12. Mustang II front would help the swap for sure, now its tight for the headers. My friend made his '73 Mach 1 with the modular 4,6v, he mounted the turbos behind the engine. I have linked few pictures somewhere here too but the topic seems to be deleted or missing.??? Its got the XR-7 suspension with air bags in front. You're not blind with the fender thing... its very nicely done. Front fender lips are raised upwards allmost intact with the angle in the fender. Its been raised app. 1" and its been stretched too. Same thing in rear fender. Car is unbelieavable slammed to the ground. I'll try to get a pic from my Mach1 sitting next to this roadsport racer in next summer to get comparison.
  13. Greetings from Finland! Georgeous looking Mach 1, I like the burgundy colour theme. Good looking interior too, looks like new. There are plenty of cool Us-made muscles at UK and this looks to be a very good example.
  14. That is a good way to use the original Style booster. What booster did you used? One guy made a hydraulic booster taken from a Cobra Mustang (if my memory serves me correct). Two of my buddies are using the rrs booster which is intact with the pedal assembly - It's beautiful piece plus you can get the barrel (booster) away to be able to have clean firewall. I hear you from the Big Power, its HUGE event. We're for the first time at the hot rod meet nearby. There were beautiful cars, built hot rods and big park to hang with the buddies and decent tolerable amount of people. Of course we're every night at Autotek, there were some serious street cars visiting the garage as usually. Absolutely great thing to have big boss going to big pony! Keep us posted Thomas.
  15. I had the shifting problem on my new TKO600 from 2nd to 3rd. After 1000 miles or so (from new) the symptoms went away, not sure is the TKO600 going to break up soon or did it just settled in and started to work. No more problems, shifting from 2nd to 3rd with 6500 rpm and not a single shift miss in the last three years. If I would buy now a transmission, I would consider either stock TKO600 or Liberty prepared TKO600 just for kicks.
  16. Motala is close to Västerås app. 150 miles or so, are you planning to visit Big Power Meet 2015? We're there this summer with '68 428 XL500 Fastback Galaxie, I would loved to see your ride. If you're having a spare time at the 1.st of August 2015 you're welcomed to Finnish Ford Nationals at Alastaro Racing Circuit, so I hope you're having an od-tranmission :) How did you Thomas built the brake booster? Did you used the angled spacer or something else? For the original topic, the '71-'73 Mustang is very good platform to Boss 429 engine since the enginebay can swallow the huge engine.
  17. Presuming 3600 lb'ish curb weight with 200 lbs driver, makes 3800 lbs. 460 crank hp, app. 13 % parasitic losses through modern TKO + 9". By the dragracing formulas in best trim, perfect fast shifts, drag race suspension it would go to as low as 12.20s area with 111 mph trapspeeds. Back to real world, I would guess from 12.6 to 13.30s timeslips depending from the tires with 109-111 mph trapspeeds. Should be plenty of fast for street cruising. You didn't ask, but I would also consider the 560 hp version just because "you can". With Dart block, Smeading uses 4.000" stroke. I might consider going with even longer stroke just because the block can take it. It's been noticed that the bigger cid just makes more power. 460hp 427cid would be a nice powerplant though, anyway you chooce to go, can't complain obviously. Offtopic.... But whetever you do, don't install a 427 badges - I mean every FE guy goes nuts when they see the badges but once you start the engine they can hear from the sound that its not an FE. I'm a purist... ;)
  18. Good point Ray. The car has plenty of tricks like the fenders, suspension etc but still it is missing the shock tower brace. I mean I don't use the brace with my stock bodied Mach 1 but this yellow devil is built for road racing. I would be that there is some structural reinforcements in front as the car has a full cage. I'll ask about the brace once I see the owner. New coyote and the variable cam timing is sweet, now I hope that the Arao Engineering would get their business rolling and get the 32 valve heads for 302/351/429/460/FE's in production with decent price...:D
  19. Nice looking headers. Should be sweet ride. What kind of hp-levels are we talking about? Where in Sweden do you live? Are you familiar with Unik Racing? They make really sweet EFI or 4xweber intakes for B9 engines - just a thought. Would look racy between the wide valvecovers.... :)
  20. Not much space to waste, but the exhaust ports are nicely downwards compared to std. port location 429/460 exhaust ports. Are you going to fabricate the headers or gonna use the Ford Powertrain Applications 429 Boss headers? I've got also a A460 block, 4.500" forged crank, rods only waiting for the correct moment to get the Jon Kaase B9 heads. Boresize is not determined yet, but I've got to beat my friends Kaase made Boss 598 cid, so 4.625" can be expected. With 4.625" bore and 4.500" stroke I'll buy two "302 cid" badges and install one on both fenders :D '71 shocktower factory made notches are there for purpose, Boss 429 valvecovers will fill them nicely like does the 427 SOHC. 429/460 is relatively easy for growthing the cid, since the stock 429 stroke is small blockish 3.590", with 4.140" stroke and 0.030" overbore you're allready at 501cid. 429/460 are commonly bored safely to 0.080" so there would have been plenty of meat on the table with bigger overbore. Guy from Finland built app. 20 years ago a 1971 HT Mustang as factory "highway catch car", it was equipped with nice factory OEM parts using 460 cid which really hauled the Mustang. Whole car was built with Ford OEM parts so that it could be made by Ford back the day. It's still sporting the same 460 cid and original paint from the 1971.
  21. Thomas, looking good, absolutely amazing! I am really looking forward to see your hood finished. Should be interesting, since I've got three hoods and just not sure which one to modify. Btw, did you modified your mustangs shocktowers? We had an ol' drag racer who had a OEM boss 429 in his Mach 1 between the stock shock towers. It was once in 90 degrees wheelie which ended with broken collectors and oil pan. Car was scary fast. Is it a 598 boss or how big is it?
  22. Rear suspension is actually from a rally car 4-link, works very nice as far as I am considered. Yes, the fenders has been heavily modified and moved up. IMHO it really looks good & right. The car is slammed, it sits very low. I'll try park my Mach next to it so we can compare them - gonna happend possibly next summer. I feel your pain according the legality issues, we have many restrictions too but you can manage with them by knowing what you're doing. Friend of mine has a '69 sportsroof with Mustang II front suspension and he's mocking up the whipplecharged 281 cid '03 Cobra engine with tranzilla between the fenders. Aiming to 750-800 hp, should be enough eyecandy and the good ol' Total Performance. With older cars are very easy and practically free for modifications. There are though a 50 % limit for the parts you can change... sucks a$$. There is a hp/weight ratio, which is 1Kw/7kg = similar to 1hp/11.3 lbs, so for example if you have a 3000 lbs ride your maximum hp is 264.5 hp (3000 lbs / 11.3). Thats the basic rule, so practically you'll need to deliver a dynopapers for the hp of the engine if the inspector has reason to doubt your word... Every single freaking car needs to be inspected annually by inspection authoroties. Inspection costs app. 80 bucks per vehicle. They'll check the brakes, lights and mechanical flaws, rust etc...
  23. Picture from the May 2014. 32 valve Cobra engine was replaced with brand spanking new 5.0 Coyote. Bone stock with only modded ecu = changed cam timing made +500 hp on dyno. Cool, and fits between the stock towers.
  24. Holley blue won't be quiet until you'll switch it off. Same output can be had wit Mallory pumps and they're quiet pumps. Been using Mallory for six years and so far so good. Non return style http://m.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4140 Return style http://m.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4142
  25. x 2 IMHO your current combo would be the cheapest way to proceed since you allready have it. Few basic things I would check & do. - lower the rear gear ratio from 3.73 to 3.00 - 3.25 - check which timing chain&set your engine has, it should have '68-'71 timing chain whetever yearmodel the engine is, the '72 - newer has a 8 degree built in retard which really makes the engine slug = consume gas. - Change the powerrobbing C6 to 429/460 model C4 or use some extra dollars and get a Toploader or a overdrive manual or overdrive automatic. One big question? - does your camshaft match to the compression ratio/intake/stall speed/rear gears? If you would share more information the guys here would be able to give you more specific hints. These would be for the starters, anyway good to have people building big ponies.
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