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Everything posted by CalgaryChris

  1. These lenses were available at Acrylic Concepts in Calgary last I knew but that has been a few years. They were $300 Canadian at the time
  2. I too used the Mustang Steve kit. It has grease nipples and works great as long as you have a welder.
  3. I’m having trouble finding the 1008 bulbs. What brand did you find them in. Thanks
  4. Super comp headers fit great with tko600 , tfs single plane intake, quick fuel 750 slayer. Can’t speak to road manners as it hasn’t been on the street yet.
  5. http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/1602-unreal-bare-metal-1971-mustang-convertible-is-all-killer-no-filler/ The taillights on the car in the link can be gotten here in Calgary last I checked. acrylicconcepts.net
  6. Not always a lot of sizing info but usually pics and usually accurate. https://www.amkproducts.com/master-kits/ford/?product_id=71Z-63D&masterkits=FordMasterKits&element=Interior
  7. 2 nylon spacers. 1 on the inside against the pedal and one on the outside of the brake light switch next to the cotter pin thingy
  8. It’s a Griffin direct fit. The link is in the above post. Seems to be a very nice piece.
  9. Thanks Tony. Much easier to do now. Didn’t have much of a chance to do anything today so mounted radiator for fun. http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details8.php?PartID=179&id=CU-00087&year=1971&make=&model=mustang&key_id=8-00087
  10. The switch from auto to manual has begun. Modern driveline clutch pedal. Scott Drake bearing assembly.
  11. Thanks. Covering everything in a nice film of oil is not the way I want to begin.
  12. So I measured the mounts and found no real difference, 3 1/2” for both old and new from top to center of bolt. If the snow ever quits here I will move it up to the shop and hopefully get the transmission and headers mounted up is weekend. Will definitely be checking hood clearance before I go much past that.
  13. I reset and tried again today. Went together as it should. It does potentially look higher but I have not done any measurements to verify yes or no. These are the mounts. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ptp-6-503-bl/overview/
  14. Thanks for the reply. I usually only search titles but will have to start digging deeper before asking questions already answered. The car is a 71fb. 351C Will see what I can do today. Considering just grinding off tabs but not positive that will give the desired results
  15. I put on a set of new mounts from summit. I tried dropping the motor in today and found the little tabs on the crossmember mounts hit the new ones. Do I have the original ones on the crossmember upside down? Or are the new ones incorrect? The block mounts can only be mounted one way. Thanks
  16. Low engine vacuum is my concern. Currently sitting between 7-9. I have disk brakes front and rear. My 67 has manual brakes and I don’t mind them at all. I will be doing some autocross but some means maybe 3-4 times a year. I will likely try it as is with the old booster and see what it feels like. Thanks for the replies
  17. I found a previous thread on switching from power to manual brakes but there was no resolution to the question. Has anyone made the change? What was involved? If I stick with power brakes and have low vacuum what will happen? Thanks
  18. I have a RCCI tach conversion that I purchased and won’t be using if you’re interested
  19. Thanks Don. We ended up cutting out the bottom half, beating it out and putting back in.
  20. The rear brakes required drilling the rotor hat lug holes to 17/32 from the 1/2" they come as.
  21. Managed to get the brakes on the front today. Everything fit as expected.
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