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Austin Vert

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Austin Vert last won the day on May 31 2020

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About Austin Vert

  • Birthday 06/30/1956

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    1973 Mustang Convertible


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    Brisbane - Australia
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  1. Hi there Sir! Lovely '73 Vert you have there! One thing though - your paint colour appears to be somewhat different from the factory Blue Glow colour. See examples below of a typical Blue Glow finish........................................ Pic 1. Typical Blue Glow Pic 2. Austin Vert's Mach 1 Blue Glow finish. Cheers, Greg.
  2. Hi there Sir, Yes, i did take a few good photos way back when the job was finished, but they are now on an old hard drive, and would be rather hard to find. The next best thing i can offer is a walk around video i shot back in 2017 of my Mustang (Goldie). It gives a look at the quarter panels on both sides in fairly good detail. You can of course, pause the vid to get a still image of the panels. The vid runs for about 5 minutes, but you can skip to the qtr panels part, by dialing in the 3.30 minute mark, and view from there onwards. Sorry, best i can do at short notice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQArL3B4VEc Thanks, Greg. :)
  3. Hi Jim, Yes, this topic has been dealt with at length a long time ago. As other Forum members have said, if a Quarter panel has been age and sun damaged, then refinishing is an option to get you out of trouble, and can bring decent results. However, this depends on how much damage/rot has occurred to the surface. This damage or rot can be from mild to wild. Light/ medium/ heavy. Age/ sun rot happened to me with my '73 white interior Convertible. In my case, it was what i would call, medium damage. As we know, when the surface is damaged, you get this chalky, brittle and crumbling away surface problem. Scraping and sanding back this damaged layer, so you end up exposing a stable and sound surface to refinish is the key answer here, as it is a waste of time painting over a crumbling unstable surface, that keeps breaking down. Your paint will have trouble adhering to the damaged surface, and in the long run won't last. If the qtr panel surface is heavy damaged, then a large amount of material will have to be removed before striking a sound substrate. This can be impractical in some cases, and it can be hard to achieve a good looking finished painted panel, even though you are shooting texture coating paints. If you have light to medium damage, the texture coating can bring fairly successful looking results. I could go into various types and brands of texture coatings but it would take forever to cover this side of it. Also, in refinishing the panels, getting the gloss level and the color match just right, can be tricky. If you miss out here, the end result can look very cheap and average. In my case, i gave up on the refinish approach, and decided to have the qtr panels recovered with a cream vinyl to match the color and appearance of my original seats and new front door cards.I went to a pro trimmer to have this done, and paid around $300 for labor and materials. The end result was stunning, and looked first class. What sadens me, is that Ford did not do this in the first place when the car was manufactured. Cheap and nasty i say. :chin: Cougar, being an upmarket Mustang, offered better standard and quality of trim. Hope that helps, Greg. :) (Pro Painter)
  4. Hi there again, Understand what you have said here, but you did not mention if the car is going to be baked when it comes off the gun and flashes off. There is obviously a big difference in much faster drying times and curing times if the car gets baked after spraying, compared to just letting the finish air dry of the gun. Forced infa red drying method is faster again than the normal baking method. You won't have any trouble if you let it cure out for a month as you say you will end up doing, baked or unbaked. Hope it all goes well for you, Greg. :)
  5. Hi to all, Just wanted to pass on some good useful info on caring for your chrome, and thus, extending the life of the finish. As some of the Forum members might know, i have spent the last 43 years as a pro Auto Spray Painter, and over that time have run into a lot of products and methods for helping to protect any chrome finish, and help extend the life of the finish before it starts to break down and fail. I will say from the start, that i have never been in the chroming business, and therefore, don't have the advanced technical knowledge of all the ins and outs of chroming. I will say however, that i am aware, that over the last few decades, the quality of chroming finishes has fallen off badly compared to the quality of say chrome finishes back in the Fifties decade for example. Fifties chrome would just keep on going and going if looked after properly. The better the quality of the chrome finish, the longer life you will get out of the product. Good quality chrome finishes can still be found today, but are harder to come across, and will cost a lot more as well. Given that is the situation today, you can still try and get good quality chrome, and then make sure you look after it to prolong its life. Like any paint finish, the bad enemies that attack and break down the chrome are mainly pollutants, and ultra violet radiation from the sun. Pollutants can be atmospheric types such as jet plane fallout, car exhaust fallout, etc. Road grime is full of chemicals, oils etc that can attack and break down the finish fast. A bad pollutant is also brake pad dust from disc and drum brakes. Washing your car on a regular basis, and using a cheap phosphate type detergent can over time help to break down the chrome finish as well. Dust and dirt can scratch and ruin a chrome finish too, and lead to a faster breakdown. Most town water supplies have harsh chemicals in them as well, and will attack chrome finishes too. So all of the above pollutants, end up shortening the life of any a chrome finish. What i have learnt over the years, that works for me, is a simple process of looking after chrome, and i have proven that this will extend the life of the finish. It will work for you as well. The more you baby your car,and maintain it the better it will look and last. We all know that. So with maintaining chrome, the Golden rule to remember, is that chrome LOVES CARNAUBA WAX. Chrome can never get enough Carnauba wax. The more you keep the wax up to it, the longer the finish will last. The wax coating is setting up an isolating barrier from pollutants, dirt, water and oxygen from attacking the finish. It's as simple as that. It goes without saying that if you end up with a coating of road dirt, dust , or grime, after a drive, then a quick water wash off before waxing is the thing to do, so as not to end up scratching the chrome finish. Product wise, you can use a good quality Carnauba paste or cream, but i love to use products like spray Carnauba wax detailers from squirt bottles, as you can easily spray the wheels all over with the product, and then microfiber the chrome off and not get any white residual powder in any cracks or crevices. Avoid using newer non Carnauba synthetic wax products as i feel they don't offer the same protection as what Carnauba wax does. Finally, go and buy a decent barrel type house duster, and have it at the ready in your garage. The secret is to go to the trouble of quickly dusting off your chrome wheels EVERY TIME YOU COME BACK AFTER A DRIVE. This helps to remove the brake pad dust from the surface, and reduce the risk of brake dust eating into the chrome finish. Dusting off wheels after every drive, and keeping up a generous wax coating on the chrome will ensure you will get an extended life out of your chrome. Many thanks, Greg. :)
  6. Hi jowens, A good question you ask, but what would be the reason you would think that there may be issues with paint curing or drying times, in relation to applying decals? Would you be concerned about any adhesion issues with the decals, or would you be concerned about the decals damaging the freshly painted surface for example? The short answers are firstly, in relation to potential adhesion issues, any new or fresh paint film needs to be DRY, but not strictly cured to achieve a good surface for the decal to bond strongly to. Secondly, with regards to decals damaging freshly painted panels, then that's different, because the longer the new paint has a chance to cure properly, the less potential damage it will render to the newly painted and presented paint finish.They are the basic rules. Going deeper into what i have said above, let's look at adhesion issues. Today's paint shops mainly refinish with 2 pack paints. The finishing top coats are 2 pack, be it clear coat or solid color. Some shops are still using Acrylic Lacquer to refinish their cars. They are in a minority. When it comes to proper drying and curing times for these paints, there are variations involved to consider. With 2 pack paints, some paint companies make products that can be air dried and air cured, as well as being optionally baked as well. While others offer spray and bake only top coats. In any case, be it air dry or baking after the paint comes off the gun, certain time must pass to call the newly applied paint finish DRY. Proper solvent release is the key issue here. In summertime conditions, and with 2 pack paints i would say leave the newly painted panels go for around a day if baked off the gun, and two days if air dried off the gun to call it dry. With winter conditions, double those times for air dry off the gun only. Regards Lacquer, you can only air dry. It's a deceptive paint, because it appears to be dry a few hours off the gun. But because it takes much longer for the solvents to be released out of the entire paint layers, longer drying times apply.In Summertime i would let the new paint dry for around two days to call it dry. In Winter, i would say four days to call it properly dry. Also, don't forget how many coats of paint the painter applies, will play a part in drying times as well. When it comes to so called curing of these paints, the longer time you can give a paint to cure, the better off you will be in general terms for many reasons. But as i said, the curing side of the new paint won't play any real part in relation to getting good adhesion results. A well cleaned surface is your best buddy for a good decal grip. A light application of wax and grease remover is a good plan to make sure the surface is clean. Pro decal guys use soapy water to help apply the decals properly anyway. Lastly, in regards fresh paint being damaged by too early decal application. This is or can be a reality. The glues used on the backs of decals are chemical by nature, and can be stringent and aggressive, and so can chemically etch into a fresh paint finish.The general rule here is whether you are using 2 pack or Lacquer paints, or you are baking or air drying your painted panels, the longer you leave the freshly painted panels to cure out, the better, an the less chance you will have of damaging the paint film.With 2 pack top coats, i would give a curing window of a week minimum if baked, and four weeks if air dried only. With lacquer, i would give a curing window minimum of one month before applying decals. Also, if you leave the freshly painted car or panels out in the sun all day for a few days, then this can greatly accelerate the curing process of any paint, and so cut down the curing time of freshly painted panels. However, that all said, the etching damage that can occur, usually can be light sanded out, and then cut and polished away, as the etching effect usually only penetrates a little way into the paint films. Lastly, the best plan in general, is if you can, leave the new paint cure as long as you can, in relation to cutting and polishing the panels. This will help to avoid any sink back paint issues that may occur due to premature cutting and polishing, and not letting the new paint properly cure out. I say this because, it is better to get your cutting and polishing done and out of the way, before the decals are applied. To apply the decals first before cutting and polishing can bring on potential problems of damaging the newly applied decals. Hope that all makes sense and helps. :) Greg (Pro Painter)
  7. Looking great. Glad it all went well for you Sir.
  8. Hi To All, Thought i would jump in on this one. When you look at the seats set up for the 1,2,3 Mustangs back in those days, it was very crude and basic. For example, the seat travel forward and backwards did not really cater for tall guys, and as far as going all the way back, still did not provide enough leg room. The seat upright did not have any adjustment to it, which would have made a big difference to overall comfort. Tilt steering helped to some degree, but was not the full answer. Also, the seats did not offer any height or tilt adjustments to them. This would have helped as well to overall driving comfort. Electric/ power seats were available in the Cougar range as options i believe but not for 1,2,3 Mustangs. I don't know if the Cougar power seat tracks offered enough back slide travel, tilt travel, or up and down travel. In any case, i am not a tall guy, but in my '73 Convertible, i found the back slide travel not enough when fully set back as far as it could go. I got around this problem very successfully by buying a set of seat frame extensions that bolt on easily to my existing seat frame legs. Year one Company in America sells them for a modest price. I installed them and they solved my leg room problem. These track extenders will solve leg room issues mainly, but if you have height or seat upright, tilting forward or backward issues, you may have to upgrade your front seating to more modern seats that offer all these adjustments. Lastly, a few years ago, i invented and installed a footrest for our 1,2,3 Mustangs. This footrest has provided me with extra driving comfort and control, and has made a world of difference to my overall driving experience. I mentioned it here in this topic, because it may provide help in relation to finding a better seat setup experience. It certainly did for me. Here is a link to my old post on this subject. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-austin-vert-invents-a-footrest-for-71-73-mustangs?highlight=foot+rest Here is a link to the extension brackets product for sale. https://www.yearone.com/Product/PartSearchResult/SB246/ Hope that helps. Greg. :)
  9. Hi to all, When panels are presented to a painter on a vertical or flipped over plane, they still have the ability of attracting dirt particles as such, but the prospect of contamination is somewhat reduced. No matter how the panel is presented, the painting environment plays the biggest part in dirt contam issues. Also, i was going to mention the semi gloss/ low sheen clear option, and since it's been raised, i'll talk about it now. Some painters like to choose this option to paint over a black base coat. Again, you can choose between a 2 Pack or a Lacquer paint for the clear. In my opinion, i see no real advantage in going this way. This is because, a low sheen clear finish will end up being just as sensitive to damage and wax problems just as straight black finish will be. The same rules will apply to contamination problems with the clear finish as it does with the straight black finish. This means that there is no real gain in using a clear paint to finish the panel. Clears will weather or break down faster than solid colors due to UV exposure. As well - Hi David. You raise a good point about reproducing or copying the original factory finishes, and i would agree with you here. However, there is one thing to think about, and that is if you still have the original factory finish on any panel you own now, be it full gloss color or a satin/mat, the aging process/wear and tear, over 40 years or so, will change the appearance of any paint as it breaks down over time. Take my '73 Mustang. It still has 3/4 of the car in original factory Gold Glow color. Thanks to my car being babied all its life the paint is still in pristine condition. However, it has suffered from color or pigment fading over time, and has become somewhat lighter in color appearance. Also, our 123 Mustangs were factory shot in Mono enamels. The metallic paint colors back then were a mixture of aluminium flakes and pigments and clear in the one tin. Clear coat/base coat paint systems were not around in the earlier Seventies. Pigments have changed as well, and that makes it very hard to match the original look. With all mono metallic paints of the day, they don't like being cut and polished or waxed at all, as the naked aluminium flakes are always exposed on the surface. You will see this when you go to wax a mono paint, as the ali sheds straight onto your white cotton application rag, producing a dark grey residue on the rag.So cutting and polishing a mono metallic enamel finish over time will change the appearance of that paint as well. I spent around 12 hours or more trying to color match my Gold Glow color, and could never end up getting it to perfectly 3 way angle match my original factory color as it presents today. Greg. :)
  10. Hi Joe, Being a professional auto spray painter, i can offer a wealth of advice on this topic. As i recall, i am sure i have posted in the past a good amount of tips and feedback on this topic, and the guys who have just posted back to you have covered a lot of good points and help. Just two things spring to mind from me worth mentioning. First, satin or low gloss black would be the best way to go. Gloss black was never the original finish, but a lot of guys choose it because they personally like the look of it. That's a personal choice thing of course. Gloss finish also is easier to spray and finish work with from a spray painters point of view, and is far easier to maintain than a typical satin black finished panel. With gloss, you end up with no edge lines if you lay down a base coat/ clear coat application, which can be colored sanded and cut and polished later. However, satin black finishes are hard to maintain and keep looking good over time.They have a low tolerance to being touched or handled without being damaged. Waxing can bring on a shiney look, which is very hard to get rid of, and should be avoided. However, i have discovered an Australian made wax product that can be used all day without producing and gloss issues for any mat or satin finishes. It's called Bowden's Lazy Wax. It's the only product i know of that does not gloss up flat or satin blacks. It really is fantastic. Second, i would recommend using Acrylic Lacquer satin black paint over 2K or two pack satin black if you are going the satin black way. 2K black is a more harder, durable paint finish over Lacquer, but the problem is that when you are spraying the 2k on you will 99% sure end up getting nibs or dirt particles in the finish as you apply the paint. When you do, the only way to remedy this is to let the paint dry, then block sand the nibs out, and then refinish the panel again.The problem is here, that when you respray the panel again, you will more than likely get fresh dirt in the job no matter. For the guys that can honestly say they have ended up with a completely nib free 2K satin finish off the gun, then all i can say is they have been very lucky to achieve that. However, when you shoot in Lacquer, you can sand and remove nibs or dirt on the fly, or as you are applying the paint. A coat of Lacquer can be dry or wet colored sanded around five to ten minutes after applying it. This means that you end up with a total dirt free satin finish without risking a crazy overloaded paint buildup.This is what i did on my '73 Nasa hood, and i ended up with a top looking, completely dirt free finish. I shot the hood about 5 years ago,and it still looks great today. Hope that helps, Greg. :)
  11. Hi Tony, Hope they work OK for you. Don't forget to try and do a test drill out for both ends of the bellows in panel steel first to check on the holding power of the bellows to the steel panels. When i drilled out my car following my given hole diameter measurements, i found one hole tended to let the bellow ease it's way out from opening the door several times.This would have been caused by one of the bellow ends being a slightly different size due to ageing and shrinking issues maybe. To rectify and get around this problem, i had to end up using a urathane adhesive like Sikaflex to hard glue the bellow into the door.That worked very well, and solved the problem. You may find through trial and error testing, that choosing a slightly smaller diameter hole drill, will be to your advantage giving you more bellow gripping or holding power. UPDATE. Sorry Tony, I forgot to mention that i found, and you should also find very small factory punch spike position dimples in the door skin and the pillar skin that show you where to drill your holes for the bellows. Look hard and you should find them. Many thanks, Greg. :)
  12. Hi there Sir, Thanks for your kind feedback, and glad you like the old girl! Yes, i do like to keep her clean, and i never wash the car with a garden hose or bucket would you believe. Many thanks, Greg. :)
  13. Hi from Boise Idaho, What size tires do you have on Goldie? Thx Hi there, I am running 10x15 rims on the back and 8x 15 rims on the front. I am running 295/50 tires on the back, and 245/60 tires on the front. No issues. Thanks, Greg. :)
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