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Austin Vert

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Austin Vert last won the day on May 31 2020

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About Austin Vert

  • Birthday 06/30/1956

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  • My Car
    1973 Mustang Convertible

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    Brisbane - Australia
  • Region
    Northeast

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  • Sex
    Male

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  1. Hi Idaho Chris, Regards your center console color. The black contrast is an option, and looks pretty good. However, if you wanted to color change it to matching blue, the only way to achieve this is to take your car down to a decent paint and panel shop that can either color match paint by eye of use a spectrograph analizer. The best paint to work with is auto acrylic Lacquer, but 2 pak solids can be ok as well. You can even get to choose the gloss level you want to end up with. Your whole interior has a few different shades of blue. Choose the one that you like the look of best and go with that.Also the upholstery has a very fine hint of metallic in it. This effect can also be reproduced in the made up paint. If you possess spray guns and a compressor, you could take on this refinish job yourself. If not, then leave it to a pro spray painter to refinish, as spraying plastics is always a tricky deal to get it right. So forget rattle can paints, color matching is the only way to get a good match that you are chasing. Hope that helps. Greg (pro spray painter)
  2. Thanks for the feedback Eric. Wow, times have been really hard for you in many ways. Sorry to hear about your mother passing. Loosing a parent is always a very hard thing to come to terms with. The loss of your family pet brings great sorrow as well. Please accept my sincere sympathies Eric. Sounds like you are happy enough to keep on working for the forseeable future. Weather and temps over where you are have been pretty bad i hear.Power outages as well - not good. Good to hear your Mustang is sound and well though. I think what Chuck has said above covers it very well. Hang in there champ! Greg.
  3. Hi Chuck, Thanks for your reply. Yes, from a performance perspective, the tires are up there with the Mastercrafts, if not somewhat better. Hope you are running ok with things. Hi Mike, Hope your keeping well these days. Yes, the feedback i got was that these tires are ok in the rain from general consensus. I would want to prove that myself, but don't think i'll get the opportunity. He, he. Interesting comment on the lettering offset. Yeah, don't know what's going on there. Maybe it's an Aussie production thing or whatever. I remember you're not a great fan of white lettering on your sidewalls. As far as the lettering goes, i prefer the Avengers in that regard as the letters are positioned closer to the rim and when spelt out, look more attractive than calling your tires Galaxy. Hope your Mustang is running ok and you still are enjoying her. Thanks Guys, Greg.
  4. Hi Everyone, Just wanted to follow up on my last report, with my story on buying new tires for Goldie, my '73 Vert. Hope you find it good, interesting info. Introduction. For the Forum members that have followed me over the years, you will know that when it comes to choice of wheels and rubber, i'm old school in my tastes. For me, the look i'm chasing is the classic Magnum 500 x15inch chrome rims,teamed up with old school tires such as T/A Radials with white lettering on the sidewalls. For Goldie, i ended up settling on Magnum 500 rims. Front- 15x8 and back - 15x10. Going back to 2011, i had the choice of buying leading brands such as T/A Radials, Cooper Cobras, Mastercraft Avengers etc. My research led me to buy and try the Avengers, as i had received mixed reports on the other brands. I've been running Avengers since 2011 on all my American cars i've owned. ( '73 Mustang Vert/ '73 Mach 1/ '71 Dodge Challenger Vert) My common go to size is Front - 245/60 x15 and Back - 295/50x15. on all cars. All i can say, is that i have been very, very happy with the Avengers over the years. To me, they are really are a great all 'round tire. The only exception would be that since i NEVER drive my classic cars in wet weather, i cannot give you any feedback as to how these tires perform in the wet. Sorry.The only other issue that used to annoy me, was that on the back of the Vert, i installed heavy duty leaf springs to set the suspension slightly high. The idea was to help clear the outer edge of the tire from rubbing on the inner wheel arch lip when going over heavy dips in the road or bad potholes. I almost solved this problem, but on some very bad roads, and with extra load such as passengers, i got the occasional rub issue. This slight rubbing problem did not damage the tire in any way would you believe. However, there's some wise old sayings in life. Don't assume anything to be automatically right, and when your on a good thing, stick to it. In the first case, my Avengers were getting old in years (coming up to 10 years old). Really time to buy some new ones. Funny thing was, is that all tires had heaps of tread left (almost like brand new), and the sidewalls looked spot on. The rubber overall still looked fresh and soft. They still had to go based on age - so sad. I assumed that all tires were 10 years old. I only checked the passengers side tires and assumed the drivers side tires were the same. When i was at the tire shop getting my new tires installed, the owner told me that the drivers side tires were 15 years old. Holy crap. That's dangerous driving. I will live and learn from that experience i can tell you. Would you believe that the tire shop owner inspected and showed me all four tires on the insides, and found them to be in good condition as well, but i was not going to take any chances. So, it was time to grab some new tires....................................................................... The purchase. As for the second wise saying in life, it made perfect sense to me to stick with the tires i knew and liked so much. However, i was in for a nasty surprise. Realizing that i had to move fast on getting new rubber, i started to touch base with my old suppliers of the Mastercraft Avenger tires before last Christmas. They told me that none were available to purchase in Australia due to so called manufacture and distribution issues around the world and America, and it could be months away before any would arrive. In desperation, i checked with other brands like Cobras and B.F. Goodrich, but sadly it was the same story. I was caught between a rock and a hard place. I waited for three months. Out of desperation, i deep dived into investigating other possible brands to get me out of trouble. I stumbled on a brand that i never heard of before - Radial Galaxy R1 tire by Vitour. (an asian tire i believe) I spent hours researching these tires, and much to my surprise, they came up with very good critique and review all 'round. The good news was that these tires were available in Australia in good supply, and were available in my sizes, white lettering and all. I pulled the trigger in April, 2021, and bought a set for Goldie. All i can say, is i am again, very happy with these tires. They are just great, and perform super well - just as good as the Avengers did. Quiet/ good handling and cornering, great road hugging, with the excepting of wet weather handling of course. They were much cheaper to buy than the Avengers as well. ($750.00 Australian fitted and balanced/ $540.00 US Dollars) These tires are sold in America too. Lastly, the shoulders of the new tires are more curved, and thus, has solved my rear tire rubbing problem completely, as i get good clearance with the inner wheel arch lip. Your US reference ................................... https://www.performanceplustire.com/tires-for-sale/vitour-tires/galaxy-r1-5/ts:29550-15:ty:Tire/ Your Australian reference ................................................ https://www.etyrestore.com.au/new_store_listing.php?tyre_id=748 Goldie walk around with the old Avenger tires - (Sorry for the shaky/ noisy video) Goldie with the new Vitour Tires. She's sitting high stance here, as she's just been dropped off the front/back jacks and hasn't settled. (Notice the shoulders are more rounded than the Avengers) Thanks, Greg.
  5. Hi Eric! Great to hear from you. Hope you and family are going ok. How's that legend Mustang of yours going? You must have just about most things sorted out on the old girl by now i guess. Are your paint and panel repairs holding up to the test of time? Kevin's Mach 1 story sounds interesting. Must catch up with that. All the best for now Eric, Greg.
  6. Hey Kevin, Oh my gosh, that is a tragedy man. What a most unfortunate, terrible thing to happen to you. I hope that you were not injured or hurt in this accident to any degree. You must have been heart broken to say the least. Looking at the basics, may i make a few comments in passing. First, if the other driver caused the accident, does he have insurance to cover the claim on your car? Also, that is a big front end collision. Your car will centainly need to be put on a pro body alignment rack to make it right again from front to back. I wonder if you will be able to get all the parts you will need to completely repair the car. The paint job will need to go all the way down the sides of the car to get the color/ metallic effect right. Lastly, being in the crash repair game most of my working life, i have found that once any car is damaged to this extent, it can never be bought back to the exact level at where it was originally. That said, it would be interesting to know how you feel about the car now, and what your thoughts would be on future ownership. I feel resale value could suffer to some extent, as the general public see major damaged cars as a negative, no matter how good and professionally repaired they were. Speaking for myself, if Goldie suffered a similar fate as yours has, i would get it repaired and then sell it on, as i would never feel the same way about the car again. But that's just me. Greg.
  7. Hi Bill. Good to hear from you. Thanks for your feedback. You make some good points there. I agree, that age would have some influence to help increase drag resistance, but to what degree i could not be sure. Also note, that the photos of the channel assemblies i put in, are not my assemblies that are on my car. They are a rusted out second hand pair i bought in from the States to use a a back up, in the event that my originals could not be readjusted. I think the best thing i am enjoying about my retirement is getting off the merry - go - round of life, and how that grinds you down over the years. Hope you are still enjoying your Mustang like myself. All the best, Greg.
  8. Hi there Kevin and Don. Kevin ................ Thanks for your warm welcome. Hope life is treating you and family not too bad. Your Mustang is looking very sharp i see, and you video of the beast tearing up the road tells me she's loaded with power! Great ride Kevin - you must be very proud of her. Don - Thanks too for your welcome. I hope you and family are going ok too. Are you still enjoying your cigars. How's the body healing after your unfortunate mishap a while ago? Glad to see other Forum members have touched base with my projects over the years as you say. My aim was to benefit other members, and help enjoy their Mustang ownership as well. Regards the front bar repair - yes, the amount of force needed to move the channel back out was crazy. To be more accurate though, my mechanic told me he used a 20 ton press. He did not give me an accurate force measurement needed to move the channel back out. That would be interesting. I suspect that the channel bar assembly was designed to let the bar crumple and move in, not go back out the other way. I could be wrong there, but it shows that the back force pressure greatly exceeds the push in collapse force pressure. Therein lies the clue. In any case, my experiment and results, gives Forum members a way out of trouble if this situation happens to them with their '73s. I don't believe you can buy new front bars or bar channel assemblies still for '73s. So all the best for now guys, and hope to catch up not before too long. Greg
  9. Hi Tim, Thanks for your reply and good to hear from you too. Yes, all is well with me thanks. I have been retired from Auto Spray painting now for 2 years now, and i am enjoying my retirement very much Hope you are keeping well too. Regards your above comment on buffing out the bar - well no, it will need to be repaired with flexible filler, primed/ puttied and then base coat color/ clear coated to finish off . I will end up refinishing the whole bar again. It is not twisted at all, as the impact was straight on the front face of the bar. The way the bar protrudes outwards by design, saved the rest of the body from getting damaged. (such as the hood or the front leading edge of the fender). By the way, the pics of the old bar channels, are not the original ones that are on my car. They are original used spares i bought in from America in case i needed a backup set. Cheers, mate!! Greg.
  10. Hi to All, It's been awhile since i was on, and last posted. Hope everyone is keeping well. In my absence, i don't know if my topic today has been discussed or dealt with. In any case i will tell my tale in the hope it will benefit others who own 1973 Mustangs only. Up until 2016, my front bar was in good original condition all 'round. In 2016, i had a tiny accident, and nudged the drivers side corner of my front bar into a street lamp pole while trying to do a three point turn on a narrow street. My speed was around 1 mile per hour on impact. This caused the corner of the bar to get pushed back close to 22 mm or 7/8 of an inch inwards. Most of you will know that the front bars of the '73s, are factory designed to telescope and crumple inwards for low impact collisions , by the use of compressed rubbers fused into box channel sections. My thinking on this damage was , if the bar bracket channel telescoped in, why can't it be pulled out again back to normal. This was a job i ended up putting off until now. I purchased a Come a long device to try and winch the bar bracket back out again. Last week i got a second opinion from a local repair shop. The owner though i may need something stronger to pull the channel back out. I took the car to him, and he experimented with a Porta Power unit, and a chain to tie down the back of the car to the ground. This did not work in pulling the channel back out. He then removed the entire bracket channel assembly, and with the help of a twenty ton shop press, succeeded to pull the channel back out the 7/8th of an inch displacement. Success!!! So, the bottom line is, if this happens to you on your '73 Stang, you will have to remove the entire bracket channel assemblies, and use a similar press to coax out the pushed in channel. The good news is that you can revive or repair a pushed in damaged channel/ channels, but it will take a crazy amount of force to achieve it with a big press. Forget Come a longs and Porta Power machines, as they won't do the job required. I will of course end up respraying the entire front bar again myself to finish off the job. Please see my photos. Many thanks, Greg.
  11. Hi there Sir! Lovely '73 Vert you have there! One thing though - your paint colour appears to be somewhat different from the factory Blue Glow colour. See examples below of a typical Blue Glow finish........................................ Pic 1. Typical Blue Glow Pic 2. Austin Vert's Mach 1 Blue Glow finish. Cheers, Greg.
  12. Hi there Sir, Yes, i did take a few good photos way back when the job was finished, but they are now on an old hard drive, and would be rather hard to find. The next best thing i can offer is a walk around video i shot back in 2017 of my Mustang (Goldie). It gives a look at the quarter panels on both sides in fairly good detail. You can of course, pause the vid to get a still image of the panels. The vid runs for about 5 minutes, but you can skip to the qtr panels part, by dialing in the 3.30 minute mark, and view from there onwards. Sorry, best i can do at short notice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQArL3B4VEc Thanks, Greg. :)
  13. Hi Jim, Yes, this topic has been dealt with at length a long time ago. As other Forum members have said, if a Quarter panel has been age and sun damaged, then refinishing is an option to get you out of trouble, and can bring decent results. However, this depends on how much damage/rot has occurred to the surface. This damage or rot can be from mild to wild. Light/ medium/ heavy. Age/ sun rot happened to me with my '73 white interior Convertible. In my case, it was what i would call, medium damage. As we know, when the surface is damaged, you get this chalky, brittle and crumbling away surface problem. Scraping and sanding back this damaged layer, so you end up exposing a stable and sound surface to refinish is the key answer here, as it is a waste of time painting over a crumbling unstable surface, that keeps breaking down. Your paint will have trouble adhering to the damaged surface, and in the long run won't last. If the qtr panel surface is heavy damaged, then a large amount of material will have to be removed before striking a sound substrate. This can be impractical in some cases, and it can be hard to achieve a good looking finished painted panel, even though you are shooting texture coating paints. If you have light to medium damage, the texture coating can bring fairly successful looking results. I could go into various types and brands of texture coatings but it would take forever to cover this side of it. Also, in refinishing the panels, getting the gloss level and the color match just right, can be tricky. If you miss out here, the end result can look very cheap and average. In my case, i gave up on the refinish approach, and decided to have the qtr panels recovered with a cream vinyl to match the color and appearance of my original seats and new front door cards.I went to a pro trimmer to have this done, and paid around $300 for labor and materials. The end result was stunning, and looked first class. What sadens me, is that Ford did not do this in the first place when the car was manufactured. Cheap and nasty i say. :chin: Cougar, being an upmarket Mustang, offered better standard and quality of trim. Hope that helps, Greg. :) (Pro Painter)
  14. Hi there again, Understand what you have said here, but you did not mention if the car is going to be baked when it comes off the gun and flashes off. There is obviously a big difference in much faster drying times and curing times if the car gets baked after spraying, compared to just letting the finish air dry of the gun. Forced infa red drying method is faster again than the normal baking method. You won't have any trouble if you let it cure out for a month as you say you will end up doing, baked or unbaked. Hope it all goes well for you, Greg. :)
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