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Austin Vert

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Posts posted by Austin Vert

  1. Hi to all,

    I wanted to do a write up on the Topic of water is your '71 to '73's worst all 'round enemy for some time, as i believe it plays an important part of owning and maintaining your Mustangs. I hope you find it interesting and helpful. I have divided my talk into four major sections. 1. The car body.  2. The engine.  3. Refinishing and paintwork and 4. Care and Maintenance.

    So why is water a bad deal for our cars? Lets start with the car body. It all starts when the cars were first manufactured. To the best of my knowledge, our 1 to 3 Mustangs were not factory primer body dipped when made back in those days. The complete bodies were primer spray painted with industrial spray guns, robot or man applied. This meant that all the inaccessible  inner body cavities and frame sections, double skin panels, cracks, seams, joins didn't get properly prime coated. This of course leaves the cars vunerable and open to body rust issues as the years roll on. These days, cars are fully dipped, and this has greatly improved the cars not getting rust issues at all. That being the case, it created a new aftermarket industry of rustproofing. Rustproofing procedures attempt to mimic the effect of full body factory primer dipping, by trying to spray rustproofing materials into all inaccessible body areas that were not factory primed. The public has had mixed feelings about how good or effective rustproofing really is over the years. In my opinion, rustproofing does help to keep rust issues at bay, but does not offer up up a complete bullet proof no rust deal ongoing. If you are doing a full blown rotisserie, or any resto, there are paint coatings that can be applied over any active rust that take care of on going issues as well. These coatings can be sprayed/ brushed normally or with dandelion spray jets to enter into box channel frames etc as well. Sandblasting residues not fully removed can lead to ongoing rust issues as well.  Back in the day, some car manufacturers offered up galvanized lower body panels such as rocker panels to help prevent lower body rust issues. That helped as well. The practice of salting roads in countries that snow in winter only acted as a bad accelerator of car bodies rusting out prematurely. Water, in its own right, is bad news for our Mustangs. Rainwater or snow and driving on salted roads doubles the trouble. Lets look at the water alone. Metals deteriorate quickly in damp environments because moist air provides an ideal medium in which rust forms. A water droplet, in effect, becomes a small battery, allowing ions to move freely between the iron and oxygen. Near the point where the water, iron and air meet, an electrochemical reaction pulls oxygen from the air, forming hydroxide ions in the water. Where metal is covered in water, iron atoms lose electrons, which causes the metal to slowly disintegrate; ionized iron dissolves into the water. In the water, the dissolved iron reacts with the hydroxide ions to form rust. Water on its own, in general terms, acts as a rust accelerator, and when combined with other chemicals, the rusting process is greatly accelerated. . The best purest, passive ph water is rain water, but sadly anyone living in a typical industrial city will be dealing with man made air pollution. This mixes with rain water to create an acidic chemical cocktail that eats or corrodes unprotected metals away faster. (Acid rain ) If you leave or drive your Mustang in the rain, then this water ends up permeating into your bodies inner cavities, and causing unwanted rust issues. Town/city  water is a problem as well. Town/city water is generally full of chemicals like Alum, Fluoride and Chlorine. Depending on where you live, town water can be very hard as well, full  of minerals like calcium and magnesium. Some cities go to the trouble of putting salt additives and chemicals into the water supply to soften up the water. This adds to the problem of rust acceleration. Country water supplies can contain natural earth salts and minerals as well, all acting to cause rust accelerating properties like town water does. The simple practice of washing your Mustang brings on atmospheric chemical and tap water chemical issues that act as body rust accelerators.

    2. Engines. This one is a no brainer. Using town tap water in the old days before radiator additives were available, caused your cars water system to eventually brown rust up badly and fail. Thank goodness the additives today help solve this old problem. I mix purified distilled water only with my additive to help with any ongoing issues. We all know too, that when cleaning out your engine or engine bay, throwing around a lot of water can cause electrical issues you don't want to happen. Bagging or isolating off sensitive components helps, but does not guarantee trouble free outcomes.

    3.When refinishing or respraying cars today, pro painters know that when wet sanding down any paintwork, you must dry off the wet panels with a rag or chamois before the water has a chance of drying on the panel naturally or in the sun.  If you don't, then you can expect respray issues after you have applied your new paint. The acids and chemicals in the water etch into the paint and create contamination issues. Also, washing a car with fresh paintwork, and leaving it in the sun to dry without  using a chamois first can cause paint issues as well. However, buffing the panels can remove these problems created.

    4. Care and Maintenance. I have owned my '73 Convertible for 11 years, and in that time, i have never washed my car with a bucket and garden hose, or driven my car in the rain or on wet roads. Thank God we don't salt our roads where i live here in Australia. This practice works 100% for me. I do not have any rust issues at all. I do baby my car, but i understand that a lot of Mustang owners would take a more normal approach and have no problem washing their cars regularly or driving them in the rain as such. If you do hose wash, then using a quality wash and wax product in the bucket, is a big help in preventing ongoing rust issues. For me, i see any water as being destructive to my car for the reasons i have stated above, and so, my car never sees any water at all. I have perfected ways of cleaning my car externally with out the need of a garden hose and bucket. I use a compressed air gun to blow off any surface dust first, then use a semi wet chamois to softly wipe down each panel or surface around the car. The chamois gets rinsed out several times as i move around the car. I don't get any scratching issues either. I finish off using a top quality carnuba spray wax detailer with microfibre cloths. Also, leaving town water on glass and chrome surfaces to air or sun dry, can cause etching issues as well. If you drive you car in wet weather, the roads usually have a lot of greasy, oily, chemical road grime and gritty filth on them. This wet grimy, gritty road muck gets flung up everywhere on your under carridge and lower body panels, gets into your inner cavities and acts as a rust accelerator as well. This gritty dirty grime deposited under and around your lower car, is the reason most guys have the NEED to hose or pressure spray the car off first before moving in with a bucket of suds or snow foam spray products. I don't drive in wet weather or on wet roads, so the under carridge and lower body panel dirt and grime senario is not a problem i have to deal with. Also, don't use cheap detergents to wash your car. They are full of phosphates and chemicals that act as rust accelerators. My vert, like a lot of the 1,2,3 Mustang verts has slight leak roof area  issues, that can't be rectified, by buying new parts. (you gotta love the old cars!) This is another reason why my car never sees water at all. I guess there is a lot of truth when they say that in America, your hot, dry inland regions, help preserve the old cars from rusting out badly. I must have been very fortunate, as my '73 came from Ohio originally. ( Snow and salt) What saved my car from any rust issues was the original owner only drove the car on occasional weekends, and not in winter time. It was always garage stored as well.  He owned it from 1973 to 2009.

    So when you add it all up, water is the enemy in creating ongoing problems with our old cars. If you can do your best to keep water away from your cars, then there is no doubt, you will be doing your self some big favors, and reap some good benefits.




    • Like 1
  2. Hi again Hemi,

    Thanks for your updated info. Lot of good feedback and advice there. I will make sure i get a detailed written breakdown as to all replacement parts used,parts and labor costings etc. My rebuilder should provide a written guarantee to the job as well.I would think two years be a fair time - i will see.

    Interesting feedback on your own experience working in that trade or business. Sounds like you had a tight arse boss that did not want to spend monies. I bet you also worked pretty hard, and didn't get paid much of a wage. I have worked for bosses like that in my trade too.



  3. Hi Hemikiller,

    Thanks for your feedback. OK, so if remove and refit takes around 5hours say, and assuming he has all the parts needed to reco the trans at his disposal,and ready to go,  then how many hours do we factor in to work on the trans on the workbench? Lets say he's charging me $120.00 per hour in labor costs, then that means around $600.00 for r&r, plus $++++  for however long it takes to work on the tranny upgrade on the workbench, plus the parts bill. You seem to think that his $3,000 to $4,000 quote is fair providing he uses the upgrade performance parts needed. Thanks also for your parts tech advice. I can put these things to him, to achieve the best performance and cost outcome for me.

    Hi there Bill,

    Regards AOD setup - no, this has not been discussed with my transmission guy at all. It can be raised. I myself know nothing about the AOD thing at all, sorry. Sounds like another learning curve in my soggy saga. Thanks for raising it with me.


  4. Hi 71 Project,

    Thanks for your feedback.

    In Australia, labor costs are high with mechanical businesses operating under professional business standings.(around $90.00 to $180.00 per hour Australian) To save money, your only hope is to deal with a back yarder, or a friend of a friend that knows a friend. I have gone down that road before and got burned badly, so that option would be out for me.You mention that basically, rebuild kits are not too expensive, (around the $300.00 mark) and labor times comes in around about 2-3 hours. Does that include remove and refit time as well? I am not skilled enough to r&r the tranny myself. That would have to be part of the overall cost. His ball park figure quote includes removing and refitting the trans. . (BTW, how long does it take to remove and refit a C4 trans in a '73 Mustang?)

     If what you are saying is so, it would pay me to get a couple of separate quotes from other companies to verify what i should be getting charged for a job like this. I have not yet discussed with my go to transmission man, the prospect of using an upgrade kit, and how that would reflect on overall price. I had intended to do this in the upcoming week. Regards the trans cooling, i recently purchased a good quality trans cooler with fan, that sits in front of my main radiator. When i installed this fan, i disconnected the hook up to the main radiator.  My go to man, last week advised me to reconnect the main radiator trans connections up again, and run the trans cooler in series link up with the main radiator as well, for maximum cooling effect. It sounded like a good idea to me to help keep operating heat temps down. This will, be done. Lastly, my transmission guy, enjoys a State wide/Australia wide positive reputation as one of the best reliable operators around. For many decades he has been building world class drag racing transmissions for many well known clients in the racing field. I guess getting other quotes will verify if he overcharges or not. I have always been under the belief that he doesn't.



  5. Hi Bentworker,

    Thanks for your feedback. I will not be doing any work myself as my knowledge base is very limited here. My trans guy will be taking care of everything.

    I will look into your recommendations in more detail. Thanks again for your advice.


    Hi Sheriff,

    He has adjusted the mod once, and wants to try adjusting it again. As you say if that fails, i'm toast. Thanks for your advice.


  6. Hi Folks,

    I seek professional tech help and advice to do with my C4 Auto transmission.

    To start with, i am one of those guys that was never really switched on or very knowledgeable about the mechanical side to cars. I do know the basics. As a lot of Forum members would know, my major strength lies in Spray Painting and panel beating.That has been my life career. I ignored jumping in and leaning about mechanics in great detail throughout my life by choice, and i guess looking back, i have paid somewhat of a price for that.

    That said and due to my ignorance, i am now in a position where it would seem my ignorance has let me down again, and i need some good professional help to help solve my problem. Before i jump in, let me say that i have a first class, professional transmission specialist that lives close by. He is honest, trustworthy, and been in business since 1980.  I have given him my business all these years with my transmission needs. He will ultimately guide me as to what he thinks will be the best approach for me to take. You never stop learning, and that's why i am approaching the Forum for pro tech advice, because your feedback will help educate me and help me also make the best decision as well.

    OK, my short story. My 1973 Mustang has been babied all it's life and is in great condition all 'round. I bought it with a factory original untouched 302 Windsor and a C4 tranny. The tranny has never played up and i have kept it serviced well over the years. Two or three years ago,  i decided to rebuild my engine, chasing more power. It got totally rebuilt with a 347 stroker kit. The only original part kept on the rebuild was the numbers matching block. After the rebuild, and with the engine out of the car, the Dyno testing showed it was putting out 400ft lbs of torque and 407 Ponies at the flywheel. Ok, and that's that. What no one ever told me, and what i never knew or took into account, was how this increase in power was going to effect my tranny. I did install a 2.5 stall new torque converter, on advice taken. I thought that based on my limited knowledge i knew, that the C4 stock tranny would handle the extra power. NO.

    Now i learn, based on new online investigation, that the chances of my stock tranny survival is slim. Last week and for the first time, my tranny started to slip between second and third gears when i was accelerating fairly hard up a long steep road. My trans go to man, thought it might be a modulator issue. He has replaced the original one, but that has not helped. He now tells me that i may be looking at a complete rebuild because of the age thing, plus upgrading to meet the new engine power output. I have looked around online, and it seems you can buy performance upgrade kits (like Monster Performance brand) that will work for a performance upgrade. By the way, i am one of those drivers that don't do burnouts, drags, donuts , wheel spins etc. So what am i looking at here guys. My trans go to guy has quoted me a ball park figure of around $3,000 to $4,000 Australian dollars to basically rebuild the trans. (labor and materials)

    I wonder if i can get out of jail and upgrade the trans for cheaper money.

    So that's it guys. Any help and good advice would be greatly appreciated from me.




  7. Hi Geoff,

    Interesting feedback. Yes, regards torsion bar issues on their own, it's a shame you can't buy this part separately. In your case, i'm not surprised you were let down with your second hand hinge approach. There are a lot of people out there happy to sell on rubbishy used parts to turn a dollar. The buyer ends up sadly being the victim.This senario has happened to me a few times as well. You took an interesting approach by refitting the torsion bar as you did. Probably  going with my option 3 from the start would have saved you a fair deal of drama. In any case, you ended up with a decent result it seems. Way to go!

    Hi Tony M,

    Thanks for the heads up with Mustang Steve.You are on a big win with your decision to go with the Zerts. Should provide a long term trouble free experience for you. With my experience of having to replace my lower drivers side hing three separate times, believe me, i know the hardship involved with this procedure. The first two times i did it myself. Like yourself, i used a trolley jack to support the opened door. I found i did not have the tools to line up and access the bolt heads on the A pillar, so my approach was to remove the plastic inner fender splash guard and access the hinge bolts through the bottom of the fender. It worked, but it made the job hard. In my first remove and refit, i accidentally dislodged the backing plate that rests behind the A pillar wall. No joke, it took me 3 to 4 hours to locate it and set it up for the hinge bolts to take up. I got around that problem by machining up a spare hinge bolt, and removing the bolt head down to the thread size diameter. I then filed a groove or slot into the top of the shaft so it would accept a straight blade screwdriver. This was then used as a dummy bolt, so you could remove and refit the hinge over the installed dummy bolt, and the dummy bolt would ensure you did not loose the backing plate behind. That worked like a dream.


    Thanks guys,


    • Like 1
  8. Thanks guys.

    Fabrice - I would agree with the points you have put forward that supports my case. Smart move going for option 2 as you did. Yes, the bushings are soft metal and so, have a limited life depending on how many times a door gets used. Here's where the Zerts come in with a super long serviceable life.Not cheap though. The cheap bush/pin kits should get most people out of trouble for a decent time.Cheers!

    jpaz - your feedback is interesting.How in Gods name your drivers side door functions properly is amazing. Not surprised your passengers side has let you down. As i said, the crappy aftermarket hinges are not accurate enough with the line up positioning of the bolt holes plus the shaping of the hinge bodies. This makes trying to line up the door for a good fit with gaping etc very hard if not impossible. My advice would be to go with option 3 and grab a set of Cougar hinges, put the cheap bushings kit in them, paint them up, and do the install. Getting a friend to help with the install is a must with this job.



  9. Hi Idaho Chris,

    Regards your center console color.

    The black contrast is an option, and looks pretty good. However, if you wanted to color change it to matching blue, the only way to achieve this is to take your car down to a decent paint and panel shop that can either color match paint by eye of use a spectrograph analizer. The best paint to work with is auto acrylic Lacquer, but 2 pak solids can be ok as well. You can even get to choose the gloss level you want to end up with.  Your whole interior has a few different  shades of blue. Choose the one that you like the look of best and go with that.Also the upholstery has a very fine hint of metallic in it. This effect can also be reproduced in the made up paint. If you possess spray guns and a compressor, you could take on this refinish job yourself. If not, then leave it to a pro spray painter to refinish, as spraying plastics is always a tricky deal to get it right.

    So forget rattle can paints, color matching is the only way to get a good match that you are chasing. Hope that helps.

    Greg (pro spray painter):classic_smile:

  10. Thanks for the feedback Eric. Wow, times have been really  hard for you in many ways. Sorry to hear about your mother passing. Loosing a parent is always a very hard thing to come to terms with. The loss of your family pet brings great sorrow as well.  Please accept my sincere sympathies Eric.

    Sounds like you are happy enough to keep on working for the forseeable future. Weather and temps over where you are have been pretty bad i hear.Power outages as well - not good. Good to hear your Mustang is sound and well though.

    I think what Chuck has said above covers it very well. Hang in there champ!


  11. Hi Chuck,

    Thanks for your reply. Yes, from a performance perspective, the tires are up there with the Mastercrafts, if not somewhat better. Hope you are running ok with things.

    Hi Mike,

    Hope your keeping well these days. Yes, the feedback i got was that these tires are ok in the rain from general consensus. I would want to prove that myself, but don't think i'll get the opportunity. He, he.

    Interesting comment on the lettering offset. Yeah, don't know what's going on there. Maybe it's an Aussie production thing or whatever. I remember you're not a great fan of white lettering on your sidewalls. As far as the  lettering goes, i prefer the Avengers in that regard as the letters are positioned closer to the rim and when spelt out, look more attractive than calling your tires Galaxy. Hope your Mustang is running ok and you still are enjoying her.


    Thanks Guys,


  12. Hi Everyone,

    Just wanted to follow up on my last report, with my story on buying new tires for Goldie, my '73 Vert. Hope you find it good, interesting info.


    For the Forum members that have followed me over the years, you will know that when it comes to choice of wheels and rubber, i'm old school in my tastes. For me, the look i'm chasing is the classic Magnum 500 x15inch chrome rims,teamed up with old school tires such as T/A Radials with white lettering on the sidewalls. For Goldie, i ended up settling on Magnum 500 rims. Front- 15x8 and back - 15x10. Going back to 2011, i had the choice of buying leading brands such as T/A Radials, Cooper Cobras, Mastercraft Avengers etc. My research led me to buy and try the Avengers, as i had received mixed reports on the other brands. I've been running Avengers since 2011 on all my American cars i've owned.  ( '73 Mustang Vert/ '73 Mach 1/ '71 Dodge Challenger Vert) My common go to size is Front - 245/60 x15 and Back - 295/50x15. on all cars. All i can say, is that i have been very, very happy with the Avengers over the years. To me, they are really are a great all 'round tire. The only exception would be that since i NEVER drive my classic cars in wet weather, i cannot give you any feedback as to how these tires perform in the wet. Sorry.The only other issue that used to annoy me, was that on the back of the Vert, i installed heavy duty leaf springs to set the suspension slightly high. The idea was to help clear the outer edge of the tire from rubbing on the inner wheel arch lip when going over heavy dips in the road or bad potholes. I almost solved this problem, but on some very bad roads, and with extra load such as passengers, i got the occasional rub issue. This slight rubbing problem did not damage the tire in any way would you believe.

    However, there's some wise old sayings in life. Don't assume anything to be automatically right, and when your on a good thing, stick to it. In the first case, my Avengers were getting old in years (coming up to 10 years old). Really time to buy some new ones. Funny thing was, is that all tires had heaps of tread left (almost like brand new), and the sidewalls looked spot on. The rubber overall still looked fresh and soft. They still had to go based on age - so sad. I assumed that all tires were 10 years old. I only checked the passengers side tires and assumed the drivers side tires were the same. When i was at the tire shop getting my new tires installed, the owner told me that the drivers side tires were 15 years old. Holy crap. That's dangerous driving. I will live and learn from that experience i can tell you. Would you believe that the tire shop owner inspected and showed me all four tires on the insides, and found them to be in good condition as well, but i was not going to take any chances. So, it was time to grab some new tires.......................................................................

    The purchase.

    As for the second wise saying in life, it made perfect sense to me to stick with the tires i knew and liked so much. However, i was in for a nasty surprise. Realizing that i had to move fast on getting new rubber, i started to touch base with my old suppliers of the Mastercraft Avenger tires before last Christmas. They told me that none were available to purchase in Australia due to so called manufacture and distribution issues around the world and America, and it could be months away before any would arrive. In desperation, i checked with other brands like Cobras and B.F. Goodrich, but sadly it was the same story. I was caught between a rock and a hard place. I waited for three months. Out of desperation, i deep dived into investigating other possible brands to get me out of trouble. I stumbled on a brand that i never heard of before -  Radial Galaxy R1 tire by Vitour. (an asian tire i believe)  I spent hours researching these tires, and much to my surprise, they came up with very good critique and review all 'round. The good news was that these tires were available in Australia in good supply, and were available in my sizes, white lettering and all. I pulled the trigger in April, 2021, and bought a set for Goldie. All i can say, is i am again, very happy with these tires. They are just great, and perform super well - just as good as the Avengers did. Quiet/ good handling and cornering, great road hugging, with the excepting of wet weather handling of course. They were much cheaper to buy than the Avengers as well. ($750.00 Australian fitted and balanced/ $540.00 US Dollars) These tires are sold in America too. Lastly, the shoulders of the new tires are more curved, and thus, has solved my rear tire rubbing problem completely, as i get good clearance with the inner wheel arch lip.

    Your US reference ...................................



    Your Australian reference ................................................





    Goldie walk around with the old Avenger tires - (Sorry for the shaky/ noisy video)


    Goldie with the new Vitour Tires.

    She's sitting high stance here, as she's just been dropped off the front/back jacks and hasn't settled. (Notice the shoulders are more rounded than the Avengers)




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    • Like 2
  13. Hi Eric!

    Great to hear from you. Hope you and family are going ok. How's that legend Mustang of yours going?

     You must have just about most things sorted out on the old girl by now i guess. Are your paint and panel repairs holding up to the test of time?

    Kevin's Mach 1 story sounds interesting. Must catch up with that.

    All the best for now Eric,



  14. Hey Kevin,

    Oh my gosh, that is a tragedy man. What a most unfortunate, terrible thing to happen to you. I hope that you were not injured or hurt in this accident to any degree. You must have been heart broken to say the least.

    Looking at the basics, may i make a few comments in passing. First, if the other driver caused the accident, does he have insurance to cover the claim on your car? Also, that is a big front end collision. Your car will centainly need to be put on a pro body alignment rack to make it right again from front to back. I wonder if you will be able to get all the parts you will need to completely repair the car. The paint job will need to go all the way down the sides of the car to get the color/ metallic effect right. Lastly, being in the crash repair game most of my working life, i have found that once any car is damaged to this extent,  it can never be bought back to the exact level at where it was originally. That said, it would be interesting to know how you feel about the car now, and what your thoughts would be on future ownership. I feel resale value could suffer to some extent, as the general public see major damaged cars as a negative, no matter how good and professionally repaired they were.

    Speaking for myself, if Goldie suffered a similar fate as yours has, i would get it repaired and then sell it on, as i would never feel the same way about the car again. But that's just me.



  15. Hi Bill. Good to hear from you.

    Thanks for your feedback. You make some good points there. I agree, that age would have some influence to help increase drag resistance, but to what degree i could not be sure. Also note, that the photos of the channel assemblies i put in, are not my assemblies that are on my car. They are a rusted out second hand pair i bought in from the States to use a a back up, in the event that my originals could not be readjusted.

    I think the best thing i am enjoying about my retirement is getting off the merry - go - round of life, and how that grinds you down over the years. Hope you are still enjoying your Mustang like myself.

    All the best,


  16. Hi there Kevin and Don.

    Kevin ................ Thanks for your warm welcome. Hope life is treating you and family not too bad. Your Mustang is looking very sharp i see, and you video of the beast tearing up the road tells me she's loaded with power! Great ride Kevin - you must be very proud of her.

    Don - Thanks too for your welcome. I hope you and family are going ok too. Are you still enjoying your cigars. How's the body healing after your unfortunate mishap a while ago? Glad to see other Forum members have touched base with my projects over the years as you say. My aim was to benefit other members, and help enjoy their Mustang ownership as well. Regards the front bar repair - yes, the amount of force needed to move the channel back out was crazy. To be more accurate though, my mechanic told me he used a 20  ton press. He did not give me an accurate force measurement needed to move the channel back out. That would be interesting. I suspect that the channel bar assembly was designed to let the bar crumple and move in, not go back out the other way. I could be wrong there, but it shows that the back force pressure greatly exceeds the push in collapse force pressure. Therein lies the clue. In any case, my experiment and results, gives Forum members a way out of trouble if this situation happens to them with their '73s. I don't believe you can buy new front bars or bar channel assemblies still for '73s.


    So all the best for now guys, and hope to catch up not before too long.


  17. Hi Tim,

    Thanks for your reply and good to hear from you too. Yes, all is well  with me thanks. I have been retired from Auto Spray painting now for 2 years  now, and i am enjoying my retirement very much:banana:

    Hope you are keeping well too. Regards your above comment on buffing out the bar - well no, it will need to be repaired with flexible filler, primed/ puttied and then base coat color/ clear coated to finish off . I will end up refinishing the whole bar again. It is not twisted at all, as the impact was straight on the front face of the bar. The way the bar protrudes outwards by design, saved the rest of the body from getting damaged. (such as the hood or the front leading edge of the fender). By the way, the pics of the old bar channels, are not the original ones that are on my car. They are original used spares i bought in from America in case i needed a backup set.


    Cheers, mate!!


    • Great post!  Let me buy you a beer (or coffee!) 1
  18. Hi to All,


    It's been awhile since i was on, and last posted. Hope everyone is keeping well. In my absence, i don't know if my topic today has been discussed or dealt with. In any case i will tell my tale in the hope it will benefit others who own 1973 Mustangs only. 

    Up until 2016, my front bar was in good original condition all 'round. In 2016, i had a tiny accident, and nudged the drivers side corner of my front bar into a street lamp pole while trying to do a three point turn on a narrow street. My speed was around 1 mile per hour on impact. This caused the corner of the bar to get pushed back close to 22 mm or 7/8 of an inch inwards. Most of you will know that the front bars of the '73s, are factory designed to telescope and crumple inwards for low impact collisions , by the use of compressed rubbers fused into box channel sections. My thinking on this damage was , if the bar bracket channel telescoped in, why can't it be pulled out again back to normal.

    This was a job i ended up putting off until now.  I purchased a Come a long device to try and winch the bar bracket back out again. Last week i got a second opinion from a local repair shop. The owner though i may need something stronger to pull the channel back out. I took the car to him, and he experimented  with a Porta Power unit, and a chain to tie down the back of the car to the ground. This did not work in pulling the channel back out. He then removed the entire bracket channel assembly, and with the help of a twenty ton shop press, succeeded to pull the channel back out the 7/8th of an inch displacement. Success!!!


    So, the bottom line is, if this happens to you on your '73 Stang, you will have to remove the entire bracket channel assemblies, and use a similar press to coax out the pushed in channel. The good news is that you can revive or repair a pushed in damaged channel/ channels, but it will take a crazy amount of force to achieve it with a big press.  Forget Come a longs and Porta Power machines, as they won't do the job required. I will of course end up respraying the entire front bar again myself to finish off the job. Please see my photos.

    Many thanks,



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  19. Hi there Sir!

    Lovely '73 Vert you have there! One thing though - your paint colour appears to be  somewhat different from the factory Blue Glow colour. See  examples below of a typical Blue Glow finish........................................

    Pic 1. Typical Blue Glow        Pic 2. Austin Vert's Mach 1 Blue Glow finish.




    blue glow unnamed.jpg


  20. Austin Vert...


    "In my case, i gave up on the refinish approach, and decided to have the qtr panels recovered with a cream vinyl to match the color and appearance of my original seats and new front door cards.I went to a pro trimmer to have this done, and paid around $300 for labor and materials. The end result was stunning, and looked first class. What saddens me, is that Ford did not do this in the first place when the car was manufactured.


    Any way we can get pictures of the recovered panels? :)

    Hi there Sir,


    Yes, i did take a few good photos way back when the job was finished, but they are now on an old hard drive, and would be rather hard to find. The next best thing i can offer is a walk around video i shot back in 2017 of my Mustang (Goldie). It gives a look at the quarter panels on both sides in fairly good detail. You can of course, pause the vid to get a still image of the panels. The vid runs for about 5 minutes, but you can skip to the qtr panels part, by dialing in the 3.30 minute mark, and view from  there onwards. Sorry, best i can do at short notice.






    Greg. :)

    • Like 1
  21. Hi Jim,


    Yes, this topic has been dealt with at length a long time ago.


    As other Forum members have said, if a Quarter panel has been age and sun damaged, then refinishing is an option to get you out of trouble, and can bring decent results.


    However, this depends on how much damage/rot has occurred to the surface. This damage or rot can be from mild to wild. Light/ medium/ heavy. Age/ sun rot happened to me with my '73 white interior Convertible. In my case, it was what i would call, medium damage. As we know, when the surface is damaged, you get this chalky, brittle and crumbling away surface problem. Scraping and sanding back this damaged layer, so you end up exposing a stable and sound surface to refinish is the key answer here, as it is a waste of time painting over a crumbling unstable surface, that keeps breaking down. Your paint will have trouble adhering to the damaged surface, and in the long run won't last.


    If the qtr panel surface is heavy damaged, then a large amount of material will have to be removed before striking a sound substrate. This can be impractical in some cases, and it can be hard to achieve a good looking finished painted panel, even though you are shooting texture coating paints. If you have light to medium damage, the texture coating can bring fairly successful looking results. I could go into various types and brands of texture coatings but it would take forever to cover this side of it. Also, in refinishing the panels, getting the gloss level and the color match just right, can be tricky. If you miss out here, the end result can look very cheap and average.


    In my case, i gave up on the refinish approach, and decided to have the qtr panels recovered with a cream vinyl to match the color and appearance of my original seats and new front door cards.I went to a pro trimmer to have this done, and paid around $300 for labor and materials. The end result was stunning, and looked first class. What sadens me, is that Ford did not do this in the first place when the car was manufactured. Cheap and nasty i say. :chin: 


    Cougar, being an upmarket Mustang, offered better standard and quality of trim.


    Hope that helps,


    Greg. :) (Pro Painter)

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