Jump to content

BenD

VIP Members
  • Posts

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by BenD

  1. http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-13x1.25-Rotor-4-Piston-Forged-Aluminum-Caliper-Brake-System-pr-24556.html here's the bracket, but its not with the PBR caliper, but i know for sure that they make them, or used to.. i would contact them,.. Shaun will definantly get back with you. their great guys to deal with..
  2. Street or Track sells a kit that lets you keep the disc spindle and go to the 13" Cobra brakes
  3. if your handy, make your own. i made some out of steel so they are heavy, but they raise the car about 16"or so, and they are 2-piece, the ramp is removable, so that gives more access under the car.. perfect to work under the car, but like others pointed out, if you need work done at a wheel or so, then ramps are useless most of the times i use jackstands an a floor jack
  4. good feeling isn't it back at the steering wheel! :D enjoy it..!
  5. I have a 351c with FPA-headers and a manual, but i have a hydraulic clutch, so i cannot tell anything if it would interfere with a z-bar setup... Ps, the headers do fit great..
  6. real interesting to read all of this, reading thru your information i get that there is a difference between auto /stick ecu's? looks interesting
  7. have you looked here >> http://www.7173mustangs.com/misc.php?page=diagrams cheers Ben
  8. Hey thanks!:D no, my car was a disc brake car,.. i did this conversion 8 years ago,at that time nothing was available for these years, so i made the brackets for the calipers myself, made some wooden templates, then had those made in steel and i used '65 hubs, these place the wheels 1/2" more inward. made some spacers and bolted them on,. works perfect.. but if i had to do it now? just contact Street or Track,. they sell brackets for 71-73 disc-spindles. :D:cool:
  9. and flush out the complete system a few times, just al long as the new fluid coming out is as clean as the fluid going in..
  10. here's the update i promised , the harness i used was a universal one that i bought in Pomona at the swap meet last November. it was a 20-circuit unit, the fusebox now sits just beside the pedal fore the handbrake, and above the clutch pedal under the dash. i had taken the dash itself out, makes it much more easier to work on. the dash was powdercoated gloss black while it was out. Made some mods to the wiring harness, i have electric fans which need a separate relais for each fan. for the rest the harness was long enough only for a few wires, but thats also because i have the complete harness out of sight, the engine loom runs from the firewall ,then on the inside of the fender towards the core support, there it runs under the core support towards the right side for the headlight,markerlight, foglight, and MSD-6 and ignition, other wires for the fans went on the inside of the rigfht fender. also added relais for the headlights,foglight,added 1 relais for the fans, added a few wires for the oil-temp, idiot-light for the alternator, and i have switches in the center-console for the fans ( so i can turn them on at my demand, there's also a temperature operated switch) a switch for the foglights and their corrosponding lights, so those needed some wiring as well. so is it doable for the less experienced electrician amongst us,.. Yes and no, you have to know what you're doing, if 4 or more wires confuse you, then don't do it.. leave it for the proffesional here are some pictures. this is the old situation. glovebox filled with fusebox and wires... everything cut out.(talk about a rats nest!!) i have no pics of the harness itself, but here its starting to come together. wires for the MSD, the battery is in the trunk taillight/fuelpump section fusebox everything is now hooked up with connectors, gauges and such, so if needed i can take it out. running lights in action everything back in place and connected picture time!
  11. sorry i missed this.. but it looks familiar... had to do the same.. i filled in the sailpanel with sheet metal, so no need for filling it up with bondo or lead.. looks good man!
  12. what all of the above said.. i use a Torker II intake with and 4-hole Wilson tapered spacer, helps a lot with low end torque..
  13. i'll bet its the color that does it,.. well , for me it sure does.. very nice looking Convertible you have there!!
  14. like i said, it works perfect on the street, the car feels much more direct and responsive, when you make a turn, the car response right away, no more leafsprings and bushings that compress and have to settle first,.. so much better, i had the links made , as well as all the brackets, had them lasercut, i ended up with QA1 coil-over shocks, the comp. eng. ones are very cheap and 1 broke while adjusting it.. i think i spend around 600-800 dollars on it total, i did the work myself.. cheers Ben
  15. boring/honing and the work it takes to rebuild a cleveland isnt more expensive than a 302 or 350 chebby.. when you have to buy parts like aluminium cilinderheads, then it becomes expensive
  16. depends on what you need, if you're good with a stock wiring harness, then i would definantly contact midlife for that deal.. saves you a lot of work when its made to fit.. there's always more work involved with a universal harness im almost done with a harness in my car ( i used a universal kit),.. it was a fair amount of work, but very happy with it.. cheers Ben
  17. fpa's 351c 4v and 3" exhaust, after the X is goes into 2.5", car is lowered around 1.5"
  18. Here you go Protouringstang73. pictures from my 4-link (and some more of the upgrades on mine) http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-some-history-of-my-car-lots-of-pictures and if you got any more questions, don't hesitate..
  19. i got FPA's (351C-4v) not scraping the ground, fitment is very good.. i will post a picture from the side..
  20. Well, as Droptop /Jeff mentioned, i have a 4-link, and from my own experience, it a HUGE upgrade from leafsprings. The car handles so much better than before, much more direct. I have built it from scratch, ordered links made to my specified length and had axle tabs made and went busy. Spend almost a week on measuring, calculating and long before a lot of reading on the subject. If you have the capabilities, do it, you wont be dissapointed.. Cheers Ben
×
×
  • Create New...