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BenD

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Posts posted by BenD

  1.  

     

    Gasket won't do it. Once the timing cover hole strips out you need to find anothone. Otherwise it will keep leaking.

     

    well the timing cover is already fixed, i took a grinder to the back of the plate and just welded some nuts behind it, more then enough room for it.works perfect now..

     

    because of the non-availability of the timing cover gaskets over here, i made one from gasket paper, but its leaks thru the gasket material now.... so therefor i just pulled the engine so now i can do this properly.. and use the correct gaskets..

  2. well yes ,..when the exhaust gas is hotter it needs more room, the gas expands, so when it cools, it needs less room.

    that was the idea behind my exhaust,.. i have no backing by dynotime or anything..

     

    its just my idea of the fact that hot gasses expand , and cooler gasses need less room.., but i think that if the whole system is in 2.5" it wouldn't matter much,.., but since my headers are in 3" , i thought this would be the best of both , and that big 3" X looks pretty cool..:D

     

    DSC01888.jpg

  3. Jeff,

     

    i kinda ran into the same problem a little while ago,.. 1 of the first things i asked myself, how much do you actually use the car?

     

    for me , i have a company van, so dailydriving is out of the question ( the van is filled with tools/parts ) and i only use the car for recreational purpose,.. so, is it then worth it to put in almost 3K for just a few lower revs on the highway,.. because that the only thing that makes the difference,.

     

    now over here , i dont have to drive that far for a cruise or meeting. so what i did is put in a lower gear,. i went from a 3.89 to a 3.70,.. i have 285-40-17 tires,.. it still breaks them loose with ease, so don't worry about that..

     

    i stayed with my Toploader,.. its durable, it can withstand lots of abuse,. if you wanna go 5 speed, , in your case/ engine, i would go TKO600..

     

    for me, i would trust it to place a build T5 behind it.. my engine only makes about 400-450hp,.. but i dont do dragracing, so breaking the trans because of to much grip is out of the question.. and i dont ride it that hard,.. but if it blows,.. theres only 1 to blame and thats me.. :D

     

    there are lots of stories out there of guys putting t5/45's behind pretty stout motors on the strip, and staying in 1 piece. some blow up,.. even a TKO 600 can blow up..

     

    my 2 cents

  4. Ben,

     

    Thanks for your reply and explanation on the electric windows. Looks like you've done a funky custom mod install there. Hope it works well. Have you heard of an American company called Nu Relics that specialize in power windows for classics cars.? I think they are the real deal from what i know so far. And,look Mum! no engine wiring! My first impressions of that are WOW!!!

     

    All the best,

     

    Greg:)

     

    your welcome Greg!,

     

    just looked on the site of Nu-Relic,.. looks like a nice product,.. and it looks very similar to what i have done to mine, the motor is in the same location as is the bolting pattern from the motor, could be that they used a motor like the one from a t-bird.. or maybe thats just a widely used type of motor..

     

    cheers

     

    Ben

  5.  

     

    Hey Ben,

    Definately check Midlife out for all options. Also,if you don't mind me asking, what brand or way did you go for your electric windows installation? Just curious.

     

    Greg:)

     

    Hey Greg, i dont mind.

     

    i used a set of '94 Thunderbird motors,. just the motors, i took the old regulators out and put the motors in,. it did require some cutting and welding, but it was a small modification,. got the complete wiring as well, so i could use the T-bird switches, i put those in the center console

     

    im sure Midlife does an awesome job, i read nothing but good things about him/ his work,.. but i want to get rid of the stock style fusebox, and i have added a few options over the years,

    like halogen front lights with the relais to get the load of the stock light switch, electric fuel pump, power windows, more gauges in the dash, electric fans, complete msd ignition setup . so going back to a stock style harness isn't really an option..

     

    I have a completely stock wiring harness in mine, but for adding options I came up with this:

     

    960173_609010632443192_1452178145_n.jpg

     

    374350_609010642443191_1242939182_n.jpg

     

    OK - so the front-side of the passenger side shock tower probably isn't the best place, aesthetically... ;) It'll also look a lot better after I wrap the whole thing in 3M Di-Noc carbon fiber vinyl.

     

    Basically, it's 2 6-circuit fuse blocks, a relay, and a Plano bait-box - less than $45 total investment. I ran a line from the positive battery cable into the fuse block on the left (for constant power), a jumper to one side of the relay with a jumper from the other side of the relay to the other fuse block - the relay is operated with keyed power, which in-turn energizes the fuse block on the right (for keyed-power accessories).

     

    This way, I can add accessories without compromising the original harness and/or fused links/fuses, and not spend a ton of money doing so.

     

    Painless Wiring offers the same thing (but either always hot or keyed) for ONLY $200 - each. Just sayin'.

     

    that looks nicely done,.. but thats another thing.. in my case theres no wiring inside the engine bay,.. everything is hidden,.. battery is in the trunk, and i want it again in that way,. so the front of the loom is also longer then stock

     

    DSC_0771.jpg

  6. im sure Midlife does an awesome job, i read nothing but good things about him/ his work,.. but i want to get rid of the stock style fusebox, and i have added a few options over the years,

    like halogen front lights with the relais to get the load of the stock light switch, electric fuel pump, power windows, more gauges in the dash, electric fans, complete msd ignition setup . so going back to a stock style harness isn't really an option..

  7. Hey guys,

     

    i want to replace the wiring harness of the entire car.. i think its seen better days after 40+ years of service., there was a lot of cut wires before i got the car. , i did some work on it, like put a newer style fusebox in it,, that has its place in the glovebox now, but i want the glove box back to put some stuff in. so i want to replace it all,.

     

    any recommendations? Painless? Ron Francis or maybe Summits own make?

     

    the difficulty isn't a problem, im a trained electrician,. just 1 thats to lazy to fab a wiring harness of my own :D

     

    hope to hear some reviews..

  8. i'm not laughing, very smart to do your homework, looks like your doing it!, if your wanting to get it very low, and put on 315's, then yes, i would say go with your idea, your gonna need every bit of space available. and going with a 4-link is a very good idea..

     

    if you are going to use the lower leaf mounts for the lower links, then you wont get much room, because the link is in the same spot as the leafspring. but the car will drive so much better with a 4-link.. i have a 4-link for a few years now, trust me, your are going to like it..

  9. i think with the right size wheel and offset you can get a 315 under there,.its gonna be tight and definantly will rub!!. any bigger and you will have to reposition the leafsprings as well.

     

    your idea isn't bad, but i think its a huge amount of work to get it nice again under there for so little to be gained,.. unless your want to car to be low,. very low that is..

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