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kcmash last won the day on November 1 2020

kcmash had the most liked content!

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About kcmash

  • Rank
    Mustang Guru

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.


  • Location
    Blue Springs, MO

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  1. Yep, So here is the latest. The pinching of the wire in the clamp was NOT the problem. When at a cruise night last week I found that the backup lamp switch had popped out of the retainer and was hanging by the wires. Well apparently when that happened the wiring laid across the H-pipe and melted through. I re-wrapped the harness, replaced the fuse, slid the BU lamp switch back in and I have NO confidence this will not happen again. I think I need to bend the retainer for a tighter bite on the switch and I need the proper wire harness routing for the back up lamp wiring. Ri
  2. That probably explains it. A repop backup lamp switch and harness. It goes through the same firewall tie down clamp as the speedo cable. So when I changed speedo cables and put that clamp back on I bet I pinched the BU lamp harness and shorted it inside the jacketing. kcmash
  3. So that was another weird thing last night. I found that the backup lamp switch retaining hardware had vibrated loose leaving the actuator hanging under the car by the wires. So the fuse is definitely blown as I have no power to the radio either. Just need to figure out what caused that to blow. kcmash
  4. Thanks for the help and the good questions Mike and Don. A couple quick tests and more information. First, the car starts, runs and drives just fine. So I feel the column connector is still in good shape. Tested the horn and the hazards, they both work and the dash indicators for the hazards work . So I can probably button the dash back up. My thoughts now are that the speedo cluster harness plug may have hit a ground when disconnected, the tilt steering caused a short in the harness, or I knocked the flasher for the turn signals out of wack. I still need to check the f
  5. The whole system. Another thought. I had to cycle the tilt column up and down several times in the process to get the cluster out and my fat a$$ in the car. Wondering if something went wrong there. kcmash
  6. Well it’s one step forward and one step back. Pulled the dash cluster to fix the speedo cable. Everything was working before tear down, no I don’t have turn signals. I have not checked the fuse panel yet, but I would like some ideas on what could have made them stop working before I put everything back together. I did notice on the speedo cluster flex circuit that 2 of the copper traces were coming loose from the backing Mylar at the connector interface, I tried to make sure I was careful with the connector, but I am wondering if one of those is not right. I don.t know if
  7. Totally depends on the condition of the cardboard on the back. kcmash
  8. Looked like it was a well equipped car. Tilt column, folding rear seat. I wonder if it was a cigarette or a faulty headlamp switch that started this one. kcmash
  9. Springs make no difference. Possible Vacuum Advance problem? Kcmash I did unplug the Ram Air vacuum lines and plug the ports. I then did the same with the vacuuadvance. It seemed to drive a lot better with that combination. So I need to know what to do with the Vacuum Advance now. Kcmash
  10. Stanglover, I may have posted on this before, I cannot recall. So thanks for reminding me. Since last time I worked this problem I added the 1/4 inch spacer gasket which is a single plane opening to avoid throttle plate drag and not interfere with the RAM Air interface height. I have also broke out the timing light and made sure the timing is correct. That part is holding well. I am very unimpressed with Holley's location for the fast idle adjustment screw. That is just a dumb idea. I seem to have that OK, but it is tough to get it to catch the first cold start, then it see
  11. I need some help again. The Setup: 71 351c 4v quench heads, mild cam, Holley 670 Ultra carb, 1/4 inch spacer gasket, original throttle cable, 4-speed. The Problem: The car does not like to return to idle when driving. Likes to hang at 1300 to 1500 at stop lights and between gears. When revving it tends to return to idle slow. When warm and try to shut the car off it will knock and sputter then spew vapor out of the carb. I often have to kill it with a clutch dump when it starts knocking. Advice needed: Should I start with carb return springs. All I have is the original Ford
  12. Same as Chuck, I bought a box of the 3M black strip caulk. Works great and even looks original. Kcmash
  13. It is an original radiator. I forgot about the stamping on the side of the radiator. Thanks. Yep I figure a 300 to 500 mile engine will be running warm too. kcmash
  14. Silly question, but I forget how full the radiator should be. When I look down the fill opening there is a tube standing about 2/3 of the way up toward the cap. My coolant level is about 4 inches below that. The last time I was out I was trying to adjust the timing. I had been driving about 20 minutes and stopped to make an adjustment. I turned the car off for a couple minutes then started it to head out again. Some spectators commented that I was loosing fluid. When I checked the temp gage, it was all the way to the hot side. I sat for about 20 minutes then decided to drive for hom
  15. I have a factory pedal set I am willing to sell. I believe the pin is in the non-power brake position. Pedal box clutch pedal, brake pedal all in great shape. Stored in doors so they are not rusty. asking $300 plus shipping. kcmash
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