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kcmash last won the day on May 3

kcmash had the most liked content!

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About kcmash

  • Rank
    Mustang Guru

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.


  • Location
    Blue Springs, MO

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  1. kcmash

    Ram Air Intake

    You have some mis information there. 1) As far as where to buy the parts from, a lot of people here will tell you OMS as they are good site supporters. I have no experience there as I have original Ford Parts for mine 2) With regards to 2 barrel versus 4 barrel, there is no difference when using a stock intake setup or a non high rise intake. So to support this, it is a fact that a factory Ram -Air system from a Boss 351(4 Barrel) will drop right onto a 2 Barrel Cleveland. So the stories you have hear about a 4 Barrel needing a special setup, they must be referring to a high rise intake of some sort. There are different Air Cleaners for the 429 Ram Air cars versus the 351 Cars, other thatn that, they are all the same pieces. lcmash
  2. So on July 3 I drove the car on a few errands and it got progressively worse and loaded up some. She would not idle worth a crap. At the end of the day it was warm and actually idling in the drive, so I pulled the ai cleaner and adjusted the idle metering jets with a vacuum gage. It immediately idled better, but it was time to put her away for the day. Today, I uncovered her and just went for a drive. The fast idle didn't really catch at first, but after I started driving a little it kicked in. After about 5 minutes of driving, the fast idle kicked out an d she had a perfect idle. So every stoplight and stop sign was a matter of my clutch skills. Anyway, here is the cool part! I decided to take her up on the interstate for the first time! 70 MPH at 2000RPM in 4th and she rode real smooth! I Still want to add a little camber to it so it feels more stable, but I am thrilled with this maiden voyage on the highway! kcmash
  3. I have various sheet metal I need to move now that the project is nearly complete. Left and Right Doors. Left is very solid right is in need of some work 71/72 Front Fenders - - 1 Matched pair, have been dipped, need some dent removal bodywork near the headlight. - 1 Right side fender with the headlamp box weldment removed. Clean piece of sheet metal. - Original plain rear valance(no exhaust cutouts) . Lower retaining tabs missing. Straight solid piece otherwise. All parts located in the Kansas City area. Not sure how to ship the doors or Fenders, but they need a new home. kcmash
  4. Great points all through this post. Something else to consider is the dishonesty in the business. Over the years as the "Rare" cars increase in value, some dealers out there take big shortcuts to make big money. Here is what I mean. If you were to find a "numbers matching" Boss 351 for a "Numbers matching" price, you have a nice, rare complete car, Correct? Well, who checked to make sure the numbers matched? 1) Did anyone verify that the original date coded crankshaft and rods are in the engine? 2) Have the pistons been replaced or upgraded? Block bored? 3) Is the VIN on the block what Ford did? Or did someone buy a "close enough" cleveland block and stamp the VIN numbers on the block? 4) Is it the correct 4-Speed with the correct tag? Who verified before you sent your money? Same wit the rear end? Did someone keep the tag on the differential, or just make a tag and put in on a non-boss rear axel. I ask all these questions because I know for a fact that no one dismantles the car before they buy it to verify all that stuff. A few years back a Nationally know restorer of high end Shelbys was caught up in law suits for switching out original CSxxxx part number seals and components for non-Shelby parts. I am not sure what made the victim check those parts, but they had been swapped. What about the OE Lemans rods used in the old 428's. When people buy these old high end number matching Shelbys, does that pretty little big block under the hood have Lemans components or station wagon parts? Just food for thought. kcmash
  5. Hello.  Is the server down?  I suddenly cannot add photos or even send you a message.


    1. RocketFoot


      Every thing seems ok??

  6. So today I braved the door excursions. 1) Drivers door, added the anti-rattle clips to the lower track guide. Tested the motion, put the panel back on, realized my lower stop should be about 1/4 inch higher. Won't take it off again for a while. Installed the master bezel for the power windows. 2) Opened the passengers door and found the internal door actuator was worn pretty bad. Put in my spare good one and it works like brand new. 3) So then I decide to figure out the passengers side bezel clips. I cannot figure out what is supposed to retain the clips. They make no sense to me. So I tried a Velcro remedy, Pics of the whole mess below as soon as I get them off my phone. Drove it around the block. kcmash
  7. Sorry I have no pics for this one, but I finally took my car for a nice little drive. Carb is adjusted pretty well, Power steering replaced, It starts and drives pretty nice now. Next up: 1) Hassle MO DMV to get my friggin plates! 2) Find and install anti-rattle clips in the drivers window mechanism. 3) Figure out why the inside latch on the passenger door is not opening the door consistently Drive it, Drive it, Drive it! kcmash
  8. Hmmm I assume you are looking for opinions here, So I will give you mine. 1) Stay with red. A red convertible is always worth more, especially when that is he original color. Fresh paint always looks better than the old stuff, so it will wake up nicely with the original color. 2) My second choice is a bright yellow. Bright yellow with balck accents is the Holy Grail in my book. 3) I have a grabber Blue Mach 1. Love the color, but have never liked the looks of it on a convertible or coup. Not sure why, but it does not appeal to me. kcmash
  9. OK, I need a little more help with the carburetor problem as time is of a premium. As I stated before I tried to make sure the throttle plates on the carb were not dragging on the intake. I used 2 carb gaskets and stacked them for extra height. The car will start right up with a prime, but requires fanning of the throttle to keep it going. I really feel like I created a vacuum leak last time the carb was lifted for adjustment. Since I really want to make this thing drive able and stop taking the carb off over and over, I want to know the following. 1) Should I go with a 1 piece gasket to avoid vacuum leaks, or is stacking 2 paper gaskets no big deal? 2) If I do go buy another thicker gasket, what is the max height I should go with a 351/ Ram Air car to not put undue stress on the hood plate and ram air seal? Thanks, kcmash
  10. Yep, I got one! PM me and let's find a fair price. Also have an FE bell housing. Kcmash
  11. I have not done this upgrade myself yet, but others have, 1) Yes, there is a rigid vapor return line that runs from the firewall down the tunnell to to top of the tank. 2) The top of the tank also has a bung ring type fitting that I thought I had heard that the existing tank hole can take a drop in electric fuel pump that will work with the EFI systems. Here you go! kcmash
  12. How much play is allowed in the ball joint on the PItman Arm? kcmash
  13. Ok I learned this the hard way with my project. In 72 the D2AR casting case got a boss and a switch for seatbelt warning lamps. Anyway, this boss on the tranny case will not allow the 3/4 rod to clear for 3rd gear. Thus the revision to the 72 shift rod. I found my solution through Bill the Hurst Shifter guru. I can now hit 3rd gear. Yes my car was not an original 4 speed , when collecting parts over the years I built up the D2AR case sin e it was the best I had . Didn't realize that the 70-71 Hurst shifter was a mismatch until test drive. Kcmash
  14. Sorry, I will never use Pertronix again after wasting almost a year on their last great product. I wen back to points because they work, cant say that for the Pertroninx I bought. kcmash
  15. My NOS equalizer an brackets are silver in color. So either Cadmium or Zinc. kcmash

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