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kcmash last won the day on November 1 2020

kcmash had the most liked content!

About kcmash

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.


  • Location
    Blue Springs, MO

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  1. Bushings are readily available from any Mustang parts vendor. To remove the z-bar I always remove the 2 bolts from the frame side bracket and slip that side out. Disconnect the clutch side push rod by loosening the adjusting nuts until you remove that rod, then release the firewall rod with the clip prior to removing the frame bracket I described above. I believe the frame brackets take a 5/8 wrench and the clutch adjustment push rod are 1/2 inch. I could be off a size though, so don’t hate me! kcmash
  2. Ok I did the sending unit today. See the pics with the quality differences between the Ford unit and the Taiwan unit. Taiwan, the ground pin is poorly designed and broke easily. The Ford unit is bolted through the header Taiwan unit has no insulator around the pins for the harness boot to seal too. Therefore all the harness related stresses go directly to the pins on the Taiwan unit.
  3. Sorry I have not replied this week. Really busy. I have never thought about having to calibrate the sending unit float arm, and I think I will pass on that activity. The tilt the car idea sounds great, I am able to band aid my current unit enough to see that I am between 1/4 and 1/8 tank, so I will look to switch senders soon. I can’t win on the exhaust. Finally got into a exhaust shop that does custom and OEM exhaust and has a top notch reputation. I have never seen another Mach 1 with the tips so poorly aligned with the valance. Back to square 1. kcmash
  4. I tried doing the mufflers myself. I now have a Wednesday appointment….. Today I am so pucking fissed at the next pain in my a$$. For some reason, the fuel sending unit plug started falling off on any drive, making the gas register empty on the gage. I would reconnect, then it falls off the next time I drive it. Usually when I get to 3rd gear or so. Anyway, I crawl under the car to try putting a slight bend to one pin on the reproduction sending unit. I center the plug, push it on, and one of the pins falls off the friggin sending unit. I assume the best thing to do is drain the tank and put my Ford unit back in. I see no options for an electrically conductive epoxy, and I don’t dare try a 3 hand solder operation on a gas tank. If it’s full, it won’t get hot enough for the pin to solder, if it is empty the risk of explosion is too high. Any good suggestions on how to proceed? Any clever ideas for getting the tank drained? kcmash
  5. When at the small local, highly rated shop (even the local Ford Dealership uses them) the first thing I asked was if they could cut them off and weld them on the new mufflers. The first reaction was ‘no’. I assume they don’t have air chisels and spot weld drillers there. They are a chop saw, flange, bend and weld shop. I am afraid to cut them off myself because I can’t drive it to the shop then. Maybe I just buy mufflers, cut and weld the brackets on the new ones, then install myself. kcmash
  6. The two broken metal pieces I question look like part of the oil control ring spacer between the oil rings on a piston. I figure it’s either a one time break or something that will cause a failure eventually, but I am not going to tear the engine down to look for the source. I am going to leave it together. Now for the pain in the keester! I went to the muffler shop Friday. They could not install the new mufflers because they don’t have mufflers with the brackets welded on for the original style hangers. So I call the maker of my exhaust system to get the correct mufflers and he can’t help me because his source for the brackets is behind on deliveries. So I try checking the major parts houses and none of them have the staff to pick up a phone and answer my questions. I mean really. Now I can’t even buy mufflers to fit the OEM style hangers for our car. I am so sick of not being able to get anything done easily anymore. I mean really, I am off the road because no one has oem style mufflers? Sick of it…. kcmash
  7. I jacked the block up. Used 2x4 spacers and removed the sway bar. Pan came right out, gaskets stayed in place. Oil pump went in easy( no more high volume oil pump for me). New Dizzy it started and ran great. New mufflers go on Friday. Sounds kinda wicked with the blown mufflers. 20210621_204519.mp4
  8. Got the new oil pump in. The old one was marked high volume. I did fill the pump with oil before installing. Do you all think I should pull the dizzy and prime the pump again, or just crank the engine to prime since it is broken in? I really didn’t think I would get that far today. kcmash
  9. Still not totally comfortable with this whole mess. But here we go. H-pipe disconnected, tranny crossmember bolts loose, sway bar removed, fan shroud loosened.
  10. I believe the smaller. Chunks may be gear tooth chunks from a different issue.
  11. Thanks Tony, very helpful! Can you get the pan the whole way out without removing the oil pump that way. I will need to disconnect the H Pipe and loosen the tranny cross bolts to get that height. kcmash
  12. Tony, I am kinda stuck here. When you raised your block, how exactly did you support it? Did you release the motor mounts from the block and put a spacer block there, or release the crossing bolts and put a block between upper and lower motor mounts? Kinda stuck at this point. kcmash
  13. Drained the oil and swept the pan bottom with a magnet on a wand. Good news I found the broken roll pin pieces. Bad news I have no idea what else I found.
  14. Thanks for the links Don. Not being familiar with Duraspark technology, is there a coil pack that you need to buy to go with it, or what does the pigtail plug into, the big silver spark module? kcmash
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