Jump to content


VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


kcmash last won the day on November 1 2020

kcmash had the most liked content!

About kcmash

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.


  • Location
    Blue Springs, MO

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

kcmash's Achievements


Veteran (13/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges



  1. Well, I think I found the true source of the failure. Into the confessional of stupidity I go my friends. Today I noticed something a little off when looking at the engine and heads. It appeared that the water jackets had quite a bit of rust in the heads. When I looked closer I found that the drivers head gasket had been inverted, blocking the front side water flow. This makes sense as the head likely got early hot, causing he exhaust valve to seize in the guide, this drawing the failure. Why it did not happen sooner is beyond me! The Machine shop feels that was the driver to my demise. I feel really stupid because I have built enough engines to know to watch for details like that. I must have been in a rush that day and made the error. We will see if the head can be salvaged, or if I need to replace the one head. kcmash
  2. Wow! That is unbelievable. Yes, I believe these were stock valves. When I bought the parts with these heads they were stated to be NOS Boss Heads. But the fact that you lost #6 exhaust also is totally uncanny! I have never seen a failure like this on any original Clevelands, and me and my brothers have had them since the 80s. The fact that you had the same failure in the same cylinder is just crazy! kcmash
  3. Kevin, What did you determine to be the cause of the failure? Did the valve just fail, or do you think you had something else trigger it. I am wondering if the cylinder wall started to fail first. I mean this engine was only 1000 miles old.
  4. OK gang, here we go with the horror film. Enjoy if you can bear to watch!
  5. I agree that the rocker paint is kinda a must do with the hockey stick stripes. The Bold wide 73 Mach stripe can have non painted rockers and still look fine to me. I have the hockey sticks and rocker paint. I like the way everyone compliments how the car looks fast while sitting still. Ford graphics designers did a old job of accenting the body to make it look long and sleek. For colors of stripes, I like a contrast, but you have an interesting thought there. Argent stripes on a white body would give almost a ghost effect I feel. Good luck. I am a stock guy, no good at custom mods to cars. kcmash
  6. So if you do a stroker rotating assembly, do you need a custom balancer and flywheel if going manual, or will a stock flywheel be balanced properly? Kcmash
  7. I used one from Phoenix graphics and it went on fine. ( I put the NOS one on crooked, so I had to replace the deck lid stripe) Kcmash
  8. Remember this is structural welding on the frame of your car. If you don’t have welding experience, you could have poor implications in the future. If you have a good hot welder and experience, you can do it. Much better on a lift or with the engine out. kcmash Yep, I had mine replaced, but left it to a professional.
  9. I have been in contact with Brent Lykins. He hit my goals for a cam and I will order through him. For those of you that have done the 351C roller conversion, did you use the conversion with the valley octopus, or lifters with link bars? Also, what is the prediction for cleanup on the cylinders of the 115k mile Cleveland? .010, .020, other? kcmash
  10. Chuck, Sorry I misread your intake comment. That is good news as I have not seen a good aftermarket intake that matches the intake ports on the 4v heads. I am seeing a lot more decisions surface than I anticipated. I was hoping the rotating assembly be be a no brainer. Now I am seeing all kinds of options for stroking, boring, and piston choices I was not planning to filter through. Hopefully I can get that one answered soon and than focus on a cam selection. My fear with going roller at this point is all the cost and options. Looks like there are cheap ones out there, and quality ones. I was hoping to, and maybe I can, go to one of the recommended cam sources and say I want a complete roller cam set for this engine. CAM, lifters, link bars, push rods, springs, and timing gears. Then I focus on upgrading the valves and getting back on the road. Not sure if the machine shop is lazy. I think they said that no one typically has .010 on the shelf. .030 is what is in stock out there. Either way, I need to get the wear and taper readings before I make that choice. I wish I could get some answers on the weekends. My meeting schedule barely gives me time to call during the a week. kcmash kcmash
  11. Chuck, I have not torn the old engine down yet, it’s still in the car for now. I did run a bore scope into #6 to see the cylinder wall had failed. Unsure if that is the cause or the result. I talked with some local guys here who own Classic Fords and they gave me the name of this shop I went to. I guess the do a lot of corvette restoration and engine work locally. Anyway, they said they were going to clean it and give it a check over for main journal wear, taper, cracks, warping, etc. and call me before doing any work. They were the ones that told me I needed to go to .030 over because that is what’s available today. They said the .010 are not available any more. My web research agrees. I am listening to this team and wondering if I should possibly move to another shop. I picked this one because I have testimony from the Ford guys that used them and they are happy with the results. It’s hard to discount that recommendation. For oil pump I want to stick with standard volume based on my problem earlier this year. For intake, you stated the stock 4v intake is terrible, I assume that statement is based on poor intake velocity based on the runners. I do have an Edelbrock Performer II intake laying around, but don’t know if that is any better. I want to look as stock as possible(I don’t mind the aluminum intake look) and definitely want to be able to keep the original Ram air system on the car. So what are you suggesting for a better intake.? As for engine assembly, I have the skill there. I just don’t have the hot rod brain to know all the little upgrades that will let the beast breathe and effortlessly stretch its legs. Before the engine failed I was thinking I needed to go up in carb size as the power felt a little inconsistent at highway speed. I currently have a Holley 670 ultra. I hear I should be doing a 750. For a cam in the failed engine I was using the SVO M6250-A341 , .510/.536 duration 292/302. I am afraid to harvest that from a failed engine, but it seemed like a fun running cam considering I never really got to drive the car much. kcmash
  12. Thanks for the dialogue. My biggest problem here Is restoration burnout. I finally got this SOB on the road, then I lose the engine. so I don,t know how to state what I am looking for. Performance somewhere between an M code and a Boss351 will likely be fine for me. Reliability is important. I use the BP premium fuel in this car. The block has never been serviced, this is the first tear down since the car rolled off the line. so I am thinking this should be a pretty easy build. I don’t have a Horsepower target, I don’t have a 1/4 mile target, I just want a little hotter performance than stock. What are those simple upgrades to the 4 v Cleveland that Ford should have done to make it a little more fun? Or is fresh M code performance the way to go? kcmash
  13. So I have started doing some research. First, the selections for roller cams for the 351c seem limited and expensive. Is it worth the $800 to $1000 to roller, or do I stick with flat tapped? Based on the responses above, you guys don’t like my 3:25 gear I guess. Here in Kansas City it seems every event is a 45 minute drive from me, so I don’t mind that gear. I can still lite em up if I feel like it, but the highway driving is fun. Also, I cannot get the cam sizing tool to run on my iPad. Even with office installed. kcmash
  14. So I need to build a new engine. I have the original, 110k mile old 351 C 2 bolt main block, and period correct 4V quench heads and cast intake. Dropped the engine at the machine shop today and was surprised to hear that the minimum bore option was .030 over. With this being the first tear down of the original engine I was hoping a clean up pass of .005 and some oversized rings would be an option. (My engine that just failed was a .030 over, making me gun shy.) So since I have to buy crap, what should I buy for a fun, street worthy,, powerful engine. So I plan to use the standard crank, the quench chamber heads, and whatever I can do for pistons. I think I would like to go with a Boss 351 grind to the cam, but going with a roller cam and lifter setup, and a double roller timing set. So, what should I do for pistons and a cam? Any particular piston head or just flat tops. Is .030 over ok for a bore on a Cleveland. Is there an awesome fun cam grind for a 3:25 rear gear and a 4 speed? Who should I buy cam through. The machine shop said they are seeing a long lead time on roller cams. Should I harvest any internals from the trashed engine, or buy new sets? Should I have the Machine Shop assemble or buy a stand and torque it all myself? thanks! kcmash
  • Create New...