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kcmash last won the day on November 1 2020

kcmash had the most liked content!

About kcmash

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.


  • Location
    Blue Springs, MO

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  1. I did this recently. Yes, you can remove it from the drivers side. The 3 bolts are a contortionist job, but the flange on the motor has a flat side designed to clear for easy removal. You have a connector on the orange power wire then a ring terminal with the ground screwed to dash ground. I removed my console and shifter handle so I could snake in from the passengers side and slide in under the steering wheel. Yep, 54 and 200 lbs and I did it. kcmash
  2. Well, I think I picked a direction. Judging by the way the spark plug at #6 was chewed up on the end, and the way it locked up at highway speed I figure I have likely damaged the cylinder, the piston and the Boss head I have on there.(Yep, GA heads, quench chamber with machined pedestals) So last night my cousin asked, why not rebuild the original engine for the car and just stick that in since it was running when you parked it. That engine is the original date code correct block that came with the car, with regular quench chamber 4v heads. It was very tired and burning a ton of oil, but it was not locked up. So this makes sense to me. Pull that one out from under the workbench, rebuild it myself so I know what I have, then do the swap when that engine is ready. I think I will go with a roller cam that matches a Boss 351 grind for fun. kcmash
  3. I pulled the 5, 6, 7, and 8 plugs last night to find #6 to have the end beat off of it. I pulled the valve cover today and saw nothing out of the ordinary at the rockers, springs, or keepers. So I think either a valve broke or something went down the intake. Either way, this is a bad part of having a 4 speed. I thought I was having a wheel problem or a belt problem, when I downshifted to 3rd for the exit ramp I was unaware that the engine had stopped. So when I let the clutch out it really chewed something up inside. I hope the head can be salvaged. Starting to disconnect everything for a motor pull. kcmash
  4. And the winner is Geoff! Today I lost the engine.! I believe Geoff predicted premature failure on page 1 of this post. So I am really frustrated with this engine and everything that has plagued me. I am sure you are tired of my stories too. I have never seen a more unreliable 351C in my life. It does not make sense to me. Compression check last week was good. Intake resealing went well, last night it felt great on the drive. Today I was heading out to meet some friends at a show, on the interstate at 80MPH, about 5 minutes in to my 45 minute journey. Oil Pressure -Great! Temp, slightly higher than the Mid Normal range she usually runs. I started hearing a clatter that sounded light metallic, like something in the brakes or the wheel. It continued as I took my exit, then I lost power steering when I was downshifting. When I let the clutch out in third she kinda roared back to life but had a loud clang as the engine locked up. I put the clutch down and coasted to the shoulder. I exited the vehicle to an oily smell as smoke exited the exhaust pipes. I popped the hood and found nothing out of line. Dizzy was tight, belts were in place, no fluid below the car, no smoke or fire Nader the hood. I checked the oil and found the oil was still reading normal on the dipstick. Tried to crank it, and it’s locked up. It makes no sense to me that I can have an engine that has such consistent start and run performance, consistent temp and oil readings, then suddenly fail. Diagnosis will begin soon.
  5. Yep! As Tom Petty says, “The waiting is the hardest part” I am shocked at my age that I was able to tear down and repair in a singe day. kcmash
  6. Got her down and torqued in 3 steps then went around a second time at final torque. Will bolt everything back on and retorque after reaching operating temp. Hopefully I got it sealed correctly this time. Thanks to all of you for the help. kcmash
  7. So I am using a stock cast iron 4v intake, not aluminum. The Ford service manual only mentions application of silicon at the corners of the heads and rubber end seals. I am always curious if this aluminum seal pan for the 4 v engines needs sealant at all. The new pan I got is a Fel Pro and it has cardboard gaskets for below the pan at the ports and says to coat the top side of the pan at the ports with a thin coat of sealant prior to installing the intake.
  8. Thanks Hemikiller, What is the BEST sealant to use on the turkey pan and the intake? This is where my big problem was.
  9. OK Team, Still working issues with Vibration and the exhaust smoke. I did re-torque the intake bolts to see if that made a difference in any vibration/ idle issues. It seemed o help some, but did not stop the smoke from the exhaust when warm. So today I pulled the drivers side plugs since the smoke is coming from he drivers side. #6 was oily, the others looked great. I checked compression in 6 and 7 so far and they are both consistent at 180 PSI. I have NOT done a cylinder Leak down test, and am unsure how to do that, but the good news is it appears I have isolated the issue to #6. So here are my questions: 1) Vibration and leaks can come from a fouled plug, and from a vacuum leak. If the Turkey pan did not seal properly, could I be sucking oil from below the pan? 2) If my Boss Valve covers do no have drip fingers, could that be causing an issue with burning oil? 3) Should I pull the valve cover to inspect seals or go with a new intake seal. I used the brush on copper gasket seal when putting he last turkey pan down. With the torque being low the other day, I could have lost the seal when it got hot. Thoughts please! ’kcmash
  10. Hello Trevino, Great questions. I have been there. Sail panel. I had the same problem, and yes I did have to work it to get that screw in, not sure if I trimmed the sail, or drilled through it. Thank goodness for black interiors. The headliner shadows all the little imperfections. On the sill plate area, I used my original cardboard as a template and reproduced the shape with foam core board from Hobby lobby.. it is a light weight material that won’t suck up moisture like the cardboard. It worked out nice! On your front bumper, it looks great! As you know, I am having paint crack problems with mine. I suggest fastening it to the crash bar before painting to see if that stains it. If you can I suggest painting it while bolted to the crash bar. Mask the crash bar well as we know paint only covers and adheres to areas we don’t want it on. kcmash
  11. Bushings are readily available from any Mustang parts vendor. To remove the z-bar I always remove the 2 bolts from the frame side bracket and slip that side out. Disconnect the clutch side push rod by loosening the adjusting nuts until you remove that rod, then release the firewall rod with the clip prior to removing the frame bracket I described above. I believe the frame brackets take a 5/8 wrench and the clutch adjustment push rod are 1/2 inch. I could be off a size though, so don’t hate me! kcmash
  12. Ok I did the sending unit today. See the pics with the quality differences between the Ford unit and the Taiwan unit. Taiwan, the ground pin is poorly designed and broke easily. The Ford unit is bolted through the header Taiwan unit has no insulator around the pins for the harness boot to seal too. Therefore all the harness related stresses go directly to the pins on the Taiwan unit.
  13. Sorry I have not replied this week. Really busy. I have never thought about having to calibrate the sending unit float arm, and I think I will pass on that activity. The tilt the car idea sounds great, I am able to band aid my current unit enough to see that I am between 1/4 and 1/8 tank, so I will look to switch senders soon. I can’t win on the exhaust. Finally got into a exhaust shop that does custom and OEM exhaust and has a top notch reputation. I have never seen another Mach 1 with the tips so poorly aligned with the valance. Back to square 1. kcmash
  14. I tried doing the mufflers myself. I now have a Wednesday appointment….. Today I am so pucking fissed at the next pain in my a$$. For some reason, the fuel sending unit plug started falling off on any drive, making the gas register empty on the gage. I would reconnect, then it falls off the next time I drive it. Usually when I get to 3rd gear or so. Anyway, I crawl under the car to try putting a slight bend to one pin on the reproduction sending unit. I center the plug, push it on, and one of the pins falls off the friggin sending unit. I assume the best thing to do is drain the tank and put my Ford unit back in. I see no options for an electrically conductive epoxy, and I don’t dare try a 3 hand solder operation on a gas tank. If it’s full, it won’t get hot enough for the pin to solder, if it is empty the risk of explosion is too high. Any good suggestions on how to proceed? Any clever ideas for getting the tank drained? kcmash
  15. When at the small local, highly rated shop (even the local Ford Dealership uses them) the first thing I asked was if they could cut them off and weld them on the new mufflers. The first reaction was ‘no’. I assume they don’t have air chisels and spot weld drillers there. They are a chop saw, flange, bend and weld shop. I am afraid to cut them off myself because I can’t drive it to the shop then. Maybe I just buy mufflers, cut and weld the brackets on the new ones, then install myself. kcmash
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