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kcmash

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Posts posted by kcmash

  1. 10 hours ago, boilermaster said:

    Kcmash.

    Looks like you got some homework to do before you start doing your homework.

    1 figure out what octane fuel you intend to use.

    2 how are the mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and cylinder block.

    if too much material has to be removed to make surfaces true, that MAY influence your piston choice.

    3 piston selection. you need to choose carefully, with closed chamber heads and the wrong compression height, or amount of dish will influence your static compression ratio.

    4 dynamic compression ratio , after amount of machine work figured and a piston choice is made then you can make a camshaft choice based on the type of fuel you want to choose,  there are calculators out there, once your static compression ratio is determined  that you can input your desired camshaft specifications into and come up with with with a dynamic compression ratio that will make your engine detonation free and long lasting.

    Get it wrong and your engine could be a real slug or worse yet a detonation prone failure.

    To my experience 8.0 to about 8.2 dynamic compression ratio is about maximum for 91 octane zero ethanol fuel.

    Boilermaster

    Thanks for the dialogue.  My biggest problem here Is restoration burnout.  I finally got this SOB on the road, then I lose the engine.

    so I don,t know how to state what I am looking for.  Performance somewhere between an M code and a Boss351 will likely be fine for me.  Reliability is important.  I use the BP premium fuel in this car.  The block has never been serviced, this is the first tear down since the car rolled off the line.   
     

    so I am thinking this should be a pretty easy build.  I don’t have a Horsepower target,  I don’t have a 1/4 mile target, I just want a little hotter performance than stock.  What are those simple upgrades to the 4 v Cleveland that Ford should have done to make it a little more fun?  Or is fresh M code performance the way to go?

    kcmash

  2. So I have started doing some research.

    First, the selections for roller cams for the 351c seem limited and expensive.  Is it worth the $800 to $1000 to roller, or do I stick with flat tapped?

    Based on the responses above, you guys don’t like my 3:25 gear I guess.  Here in Kansas City it seems every event is a 45 minute drive from me, so I don’t mind that gear.  I can still lite em up if I feel like it, but the highway driving is fun.

    Also, I cannot get the cam sizing tool to run on my iPad.  Even with office installed.

    kcmash

  3. So I need to build a new engine.  I have the original, 110k mile old 351 C 2 bolt main block, and period correct 4V quench heads and cast intake.

    Dropped the engine at the machine shop today and was surprised  to hear that the minimum bore option was .030 over.  With this being the first tear down of the original engine I was hoping a clean up pass of .005 and some oversized rings would be an option. (My engine that just failed was a .030 over, making me gun shy.)

    So since I have to buy crap, what should I buy for a fun, street worthy,, powerful engine.

    So I plan to use the standard crank, the quench chamber heads, and whatever I can do for pistons.  I think I would like to go with a Boss 351 grind to the cam, but going with a roller cam and lifter setup, and a double roller timing set.

    So, what should I do for pistons and a cam?  Any particular piston head or just  flat tops.  Is .030  over ok for a bore on a Cleveland.  Is there an awesome fun cam grind for a 3:25 rear gear and a 4 speed?  Who should I buy cam through.  The machine shop said they are seeing a long lead time on roller cams.  Should I harvest any internals from the trashed engine, or buy new sets?  Should I have the Machine Shop assemble or buy a stand and torque it all myself?

    thanks!

    kcmash

     

     

  4. I did this recently.  Yes, you can remove it from the drivers side.  The 3 bolts are a contortionist job, but the flange on the motor has a flat side designed to clear for easy removal.  You have a connector on the orange power wire then a ring terminal with the ground screwed to dash ground.

    I removed my console and shifter handle so I could snake in from the passengers side and slide in under the steering wheel.  Yep, 54 and 200 lbs and I did it.

    kcmash

  5. Well, I think I picked a direction.

    Judging by the way the spark plug at #6 was chewed up on the end, and the way it locked up at highway speed I figure I have likely damaged the cylinder, the piston and the Boss head I have on there.(Yep, GA heads, quench chamber with machined pedestals) 

    So last night my cousin asked, why not rebuild the original engine for the car and just stick that in since it was running when you parked it.  That engine is the original date code correct block that came with the car, with regular quench chamber 4v heads.  It was very tired and burning a ton of oil, but it was not locked up.  
     

    So this makes sense to me.  Pull that one out from under the workbench, rebuild it myself so I know what I have, then do the swap when that engine is ready.  I think I will go with a roller cam that matches a Boss 351 grind for fun.

    kcmash

  6. I pulled the 5, 6, 7, and 8 plugs last night to find #6 to have the end beat off of it.  I pulled the valve cover today and saw nothing out of the ordinary at the rockers, springs, or keepers.

    So I think either a valve broke or something went down the intake.  Either way, this is a bad part of having a 4 speed.  I thought I was having a wheel problem or a belt problem,  when I downshifted to 3rd for the exit ramp I was unaware that the engine had stopped.  So when I let the clutch out it really chewed something up inside.  I hope the head can be salvaged.

    Starting to disconnect everything for a motor pull.

    kcmash

  7. And the winner is Geoff!  Today I lost the engine.!  I believe Geoff predicted premature failure on page 1 of this post.

    So I am really frustrated with this engine and everything that has plagued me.  I am sure you are tired of my stories too.  I have never seen a more unreliable 351C in my life.  It does not make sense to me.

    Compression check last week was good.  Intake resealing went well, last night it felt great on the drive.  Today I was heading out to meet some friends at a show,  on the interstate at 80MPH, about 5 minutes in to my 45 minute journey.  Oil Pressure -Great!  Temp, slightly higher than the Mid Normal range she usually runs.

    I started hearing a clatter that sounded light metallic, like something in the brakes or the wheel.  It continued as I took my exit, then I lost power steering when I was downshifting.  When I let the clutch out in third she kinda roared back to life but had a loud clang as the engine locked up.  I put the clutch down and coasted to the shoulder.    I exited the vehicle to an oily smell as smoke exited the exhaust pipes.  I popped the hood and found nothing out of line.  Dizzy was tight, belts were in place, no fluid below the car, no smoke or fire Nader the hood.  I checked the oil and found the oil was still reading normal on the dipstick.  

    Tried to crank it, and it’s locked up.

    It makes no sense to me that I can have an engine that has such consistent start and run performance, consistent temp and oil readings, then suddenly fail.  

    Diagnosis will begin soon.

  8. So I am using a stock cast iron 4v intake, not aluminum.

    The Ford service manual only mentions application of silicon at the corners of the heads and rubber end seals.  I am always curious if this aluminum seal pan for the 4 v engines needs sealant at all.

    The new pan I got is a Fel Pro and it has cardboard gaskets for below the pan at the ports and says to coat the top side of the pan at the ports with a thin coat of sealant prior to installing the intake.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

  9. OK Team,  Still working issues with Vibration and the exhaust smoke.

    I did re-torque  the intake bolts to see if that made a difference in any vibration/ idle issues.  It seemed o help some, but did not stop the smoke from the exhaust when warm.

    So today I pulled the drivers side plugs since the smoke is coming from he drivers side.  #6 was oily, the others looked great.  I checked compression in 6 and 7 so far and they are both consistent at 180 PSI.

    I have NOT done a cylinder Leak down test, and am unsure how to do that, but the good news is it appears I have isolated the issue to #6.

    So here are my questions:

    1) Vibration and leaks can come from a fouled plug, and from a vacuum leak.  If the Turkey pan did not seal properly, could I be sucking oil from below the pan?

    2) If my Boss Valve covers do no have drip fingers, could that be causing an issue with burning oil?

    3) Should I pull the valve cover to inspect seals or go with a new intake seal.  I used the brush on copper gasket seal when putting he last turkey pan down.  With the torque being low the other day, I could have lost the seal when it got hot.

    Thoughts please!

    ’kcmash

     

  10. Hello Trevino,

    Great questions.  I have been there.

    Sail panel.  I had the same problem, and yes I did have to work it to get that screw in,  not sure if I trimmed the sail, or drilled through it.  Thank goodness for black interiors.  The headliner shadows all the little imperfections.

    On the sill plate area, I used my original cardboard as a template and reproduced the shape with foam core board from Hobby lobby..  it is a light weight material that won’t suck up moisture like the cardboard.  It worked out nice!

    On your front bumper,  it looks great!  As you know, I am having paint crack problems with mine.  I suggest fastening it to the crash bar before painting to see if that stains it.  If you can I suggest painting it while bolted to the crash bar.  Mask the crash bar well as we know paint only covers and adheres to areas we don’t want it on.

    kcmash

     

  11. Bushings are readily available from any Mustang parts vendor.

    To remove the z-bar I always remove the 2 bolts from the frame side bracket and slip that side out.  Disconnect the clutch side push rod by loosening the adjusting nuts until you remove that rod, then release the firewall rod with the clip prior to removing the frame bracket I described above.  I believe the frame brackets take a 5/8 wrench and the clutch adjustment push rod are 1/2 inch.  I could be off a size though, so don’t hate me!

    kcmash

  12. Ok I did the sending unit today.  See the pics with the quality differences between the Ford unit and the Taiwan unit.

    Taiwan, the ground pin is poorly designed and broke easily.  The Ford unit is bolted through the header

    Taiwan unit has no insulator around the pins for the harness boot to seal too.  Therefore all the harness related stresses go directly to the pins on the Taiwan unit.

     

    6E776140-8B85-4292-B644-D299C4BEC692.jpeg

    D74FFE09-740C-4370-B08F-8C9D7CD019A2.jpeg

  13. Sorry I have not replied this week.  Really busy.

    I have never thought about having to calibrate the sending unit float arm,  and I think I will pass on that activity.  The tilt the car idea sounds great,  I am able to band aid my current unit enough to see that I am between 1/4 and 1/8 tank, so I will look to switch senders soon.

    I can’t win on the exhaust.  Finally got into a exhaust shop that does custom and OEM exhaust and has a top notch reputation.  I have never seen another Mach 1 with the tips so poorly aligned with the valance.  Back to square 1.

    kcmash

  14. I tried doing the mufflers myself.  I now have a Wednesday appointment…..

    Today I am so pucking  fissed at the next pain in my a$$.  For some reason, the fuel sending unit plug started falling off on any drive, making the gas register empty on the gage.  I would reconnect, then it falls off the next time I drive it.  Usually when I get to 3rd gear or so.  Anyway, I crawl under the car to try putting a slight bend to one pin on the reproduction sending unit.  I center the plug, push it on, and one of the pins falls off the friggin sending unit.

    I assume the best thing to do is drain the tank and put my Ford unit back in.  I see no options for an electrically conductive epoxy, and I don’t dare try a 3 hand solder operation on a gas tank.  If it’s full, it won’t get hot enough for the pin to solder, if it is empty the risk of explosion is too high.

    Any good suggestions on how to proceed?  Any clever ideas for getting the tank drained?

    kcmash

    7E730068-450D-496E-8FCA-8A0E9529D769.jpeg

    2C65B864-8544-429B-97E5-0CF5706FEE3C.jpeg

  15. When at the small local, highly rated shop (even the local Ford Dealership uses them) the first thing I asked was if they could cut them off and weld them on the new mufflers.  The first reaction was ‘no’.  I assume they don’t have air chisels and spot weld drillers there.  They are a chop saw, flange, bend and weld shop.  I am afraid to cut them off myself because I can’t drive it to the shop then.

     Maybe I just buy mufflers,  cut and weld the brackets on the new ones, then install myself.

    kcmash

  16. The two broken metal pieces I question look like part of the oil control ring spacer between the oil rings on a piston.  I figure it’s either a one time break or something that will cause a failure eventually,  but I am not going to tear the engine down to look for the source.  I am going to leave it together.

    Now for the pain in the keester!  I went to the muffler shop Friday.  They could not install the new mufflers because they don’t have mufflers with the brackets welded on for the original style hangers.

    So I call the maker of my exhaust system to get the correct mufflers and he can’t help me because his source for the brackets is behind on deliveries.  So I try checking the major parts houses and none of them have the staff to pick up a phone and answer my questions.

    I mean really.  Now I can’t even buy mufflers to fit the OEM style hangers for our car.  I am so sick of not being able to get anything done easily anymore.  I mean really, I am off the road because no one has oem style mufflers?

    Sick of it….

    kcmash

  17. 2 hours ago, giantpune said:

    The two thinner pieces to the right kinda look like they were designed to capture a nut and keep it from spinning.

    More pictures would help.  Do the smaller parts on the right look like chunks of gear teeth?

    Either way, thats weight reduction.   Dont look a gift horse in the mouth.  :)

    I believe the smaller. Chunks may be gear tooth chunks from a different issue.

  18. 2 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

    I removed the bolt between upper and lower mounts and placed a 2x4 block in between. I raised one side at the time since at that time i didnt have an engine crane.

    Thanks Tony, very helpful!  Can you get the pan the whole way out without removing the oil pump that way.  I will need to disconnect the H Pipe and loosen the tranny cross bolts to get that height.

    kcmash

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