Jump to content


VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by kcmash

  1. Well, here is the latest. Went to O'Reilly to buy a 1-5/16 wrench to get the damn Pittman arm off along with a Pittman arm puller. I get home to realize the socket I bought is a 1 inch drive where I only have up to 1/2 inch drive. OK, I will follow the advice and disconnect a tie rod end from the drag link. More of a chore than I had hoped for. Now I move to hammer the drag link off the pittman and am having a tough time getting it to break loose. Shoulders are hurting from doing this under the car, so I hit it with some PB Blaster while I am taking a break and writing this update. Do I have to take more off the drag link to get it to free from the pittman? I only separated the drivers side. Not the idler or the passenger side. Thanks! kcmash
  2. Wanna enjoy the summer? Put a teaspoon full of ginger(the spice) in your radiator and drive it around. It will seal small leaks permanently. Sounds crazy, but trust me. kcmash
  3. Need some time saving help here!! Trying to get the steering box out. I loosened and removed the band clamp bolt at the column and rag joint, then I got the Pittman arm to drag link cotter key and nut removed. Now I need some help. There is NO up and down play in my drag link with the front end in the air. 1) How do I separate the drag link from the pittman arm? Do I need to just use a pickle fork, or do I need to free the pittman from the box? 2) Do I need to detach other portions of the steering mechanism? Tie Rod Ends, idler arm to free this up. Let me know so I can capitalize on the weekend. Thanks, kcmash
  4. I have a spare original Plenum and valves. Willing to let them go for a fair price. kcmash
  5. Thanks for the lead. I scoured the web site and saw no Saginaw boxes and no mention of the 71 Steering box for Mustang. Did he do a 71 box for you or an earlier year? I just want to know because I realize they are vastly different between the years. Any idea on price? kcmash
  6. Got the horns to work. (Plugged them in) Fixed the brake light switch problem. (Put the retainer clip in) Did some diagnosis on the steering box problem. Screwed up my carb settings. Its running like crap now! kcmash
  7. Geoff, Thanks for the help. I backed it off and it did OK, but i kinda screwed up the carb, so it was not a day to do a road test. Holley put that friggin Fast idle adjustment screw in such a rotten position I had to lift the carb from the intake to even get a wrench on it. It looks like a I may have backed it off too far. Anyway I decided to add a couple spacer gaskets below the carb to make sure the throttle plates would not be dragging. When I put it together it was running really rich and would not idle worth a crap. Died at every stop and took some cranking to start. Not sure if i created a vacuum leak or what. It was not an enjoyable driving experience today! So the long and the short, I need to learn about these steering boxes and get that taken care of. Tomorrow, boat oil Change/ wax and launch, then Mothers day. So I will be out of commission for a few days anyway. At least I got the steering back to where it was or close. I probably need to go for a rebuilt unit, because I am not looking forward to removing that thing. kcmash
  8. Ok, This is going in the direction I first thought, steering box. You can take some play out by adjusting the sector shaft hex screw and nut, but be very careful. Too much and the steering will seem to stick, a possibly dangerous situation. I would go no more than 1/4 turn at a time, but be warned. I take it we are talking about a POWER STEERING box? All you mentioned was "steering box". Bentworker and myself have posted numerous times on rebuilding PS boxes. Personally, I would recommend removing the box and either getting an exchange or as a repair and return. If your PS box (or gear) is original on the Mach 1, it ought to be a SPA-T or V or if 73 AD or AF on the tag. Anything else and it is a stock 17.5:1 fixed ratio. You want a variable ratio or go for a 12.7:1 fast ratio. There are several good rebuilders, but at this time, I don't have the info close at hand. I or someone else for sure will get back on that. OK, First off THANK YOU for the reply. So I went about a 1/2 turn on the adjustment(clockwise). It IS a Power Steering box, the Saginaw version, and is original to the car which is a November 70 build vehicle. Of course as I am typing I am thinking now about the "Spare" power steering box I have. I believe I used the original, but not positive. So here is my question. Should I not drive it after that adjustment? Should I take a slow parking lot turn to turn to make sure I still have full travel? or should I just start it up and go turn to turn to see what I find? This stuff sat for many years during restoration. Not sure if it will "heal" or get worse. One recent observation lately is the power steering cutting out randomly. When warm, I can just kinda lose the power assist. Let me know so I am safe! kcmash
  9. OK, Update on eh steering. I was preparing to remove the column today and I gave he rag join a twist. I found the opposite of the shop. There was Zero lash in the column side, all the play was on the steering box between the rag joint and the pittman. Question: Have any of you had luck taking lash out with the lash adjustment on the steering gear box? I gave it about 1/2 turn and it seemed to tighten it up, but I have not road tested it yet. kcmash
  10. Some clarificaitions: 1a) I did NOT replace the rag joint. I mentioned that to the mechanic noted the Rag joint problems I have seen on this site. He said he was aware of that problem and checked the joint and he could verify there were no problems with the rag joint. He also checked all the suspension components to verify I had tightened everything correctly. This included the Idler arm, wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rod ends. It's all new and tight. So he verified all this and said that he isolated the slop to the steering column. Based on his information and my work, I believe him. 2) I had rebuilt this 4-speed years ago with a Dan Williams kit. I used parts from the tranny, and had to replace gear #3. So the short answer is, I should have new bearings throughout. The fluid, I need to check! Great suggestion. 3) I have a Holley Ultra carb and no choke stove tubes to the choke, I appreciate the suggestions on additional springs and further adjustments to the carb. Will be able to do better adjustments when I can actually drive it more. Then I can more readily assess the adjustments. I am not using a spacer either. The chances of plates dragging is a definite possibility. Wonder If I should do a 1/4 inch spacer gasket to help out. I do want to watch my height with the ram air. kcmash
  11. oday was an interesting day. 1) Tried a new shop to align the Mach 1 since I was getting unreasonable play in the wheel around the Straight Ahead direction, probably 10-15 degrees of slop. I do NOT remember this slop before I tore the car down for restoration years ago. They put it on the rack and said they wouldn't change a thing on the alignment, its about as good as you can ask for. a) This is my original tilt column, original gear box and original rag joint. b) After total restoration and putting the whole thing together I did a "String Alignment" in the driveway with jack stands, twine, a level, and a tape measure. ( So am I the geek hero here or what? My string alignment is as good as the machine can get? Oh yeah, I rock.) c) The guys at the shop are classic guys that work on classic cars. Jim at the shop walked me through the tests he did on the car and isolated the steering drift to a problem in the column. After watching some WCCC videos on steering, I understand why he can isolate it to the column. So dilemma 1. I believe I pulled the lower shaft off the upper shaft to change firewall plates. Having the lower shaft on backwards is one of the "slopportunities" in a tilt column. (Yes I have already registered "Slopportunity" with USPTO) So at this point I need to pull the column to at least turn the shaft around. When I pull it should I send it to WCCC for a rebuild? I have an NOS tilt column Turnsignal switch, should I try that or send to WCCC to install. My option is to just look at the column myself and analyze the slop, but I figure it needs to come out. 2) The 4-speed gearbox seems to have a pretty significant whine in 2nd and 3rd. I notice it some in 1st too. 4th gear is pretty quiet and nice. 3rd gear seems the worst. Any suggestions or theories on the whining. I am guessing the countershaft since 4th is so smooth. Or it could be the input shaft since that is most firmly supported in 4th gear. 3) Finally, the fast idle problem. Fast Idle is set around 1400 rpm which is needed to get the thing warmed up when cold, of course it sounds a little too high. So the problem is this. When driving for the first 5 to 10 minutes the engine RPM goes up to 1400 hundred every time I press the clutch pedal. So it races higher between each gear. a) I can adjust the fast idle and the choke to rum a little lower RPM and pull off quicker. Am using the heater hose choke warmer, not electric. b) I feel like the car does not quickly return to idle after revving. For a new engine I expect it to rev and unrev really quickly. It seems be a little slow returning to idle after a rev. Not sure if I am clouded by the choke/fast idle issue or if there is something else. Any thoughts on slow return to idle? kcmash
  12. I respect your car too much. I hired a local installer to come do mine. They came to my house with soap and alchohol sprays, body magnets, alignment tape, heat gun and hypodermic needles. Plus 20 plus years experience. 1 hour and $170 later I am happy. Installing those is definitely an art. Kcmash You're correct about this being an art. If that was a factory job, the stripe would be slightly off at each side of the door, and even the rear quarter panel stripe would be at a slight angle. lol Car looks incredible though. I must say, using an NOS stripe kit was a bonus. I didn't realize the difference, but when Ford had the graphics made, they had each stripe sections backing paper cut precisely. So there was exactly enough paper around the stripe to align with body lines for ease of install. For instance, the front elbow stripe had the correct paper outline to have it align with the marker light housing for proper spacing height. The backing paper also had precise cuts to align with the bodyline apex running down the side of the car. Then that last stripe that is crooked on so many cars, was cut to lay across the rear marker light. I wish the stripe reproducers would follow those cuts. Yep I'm happy! kcmash
  13. The thing to watch for with the scoop block plates out is primary hood latch failure . The Chrome twist locks do help take the stress off the primary. I know this first hand. Running mine fast on the highway all the time in High School I saw my primary latch starting fail and had a buddy lose his hood on the highway the same way. kcmash
  14. I respect your car too much. I hired a local installer to come do mine. They came to my house with soap and alchohol sprays, body magnets, alignment tape, heat gun and hypodermic needles. Plus 20 plus years experience. 1 hour and $170 later I am happy. Installing those is definitely an art. Kcmash
  15. Thanks for all the kind words. I have had those NOS stripes in my closet since 1985. In the picture note that I have used as many original parts as I can. Original 71 Magnum 500s, original Ford spoilers and mounts, front clips all Ford stuff, the Fenders, hood, hood locks, ram air system, grille, and of course the bumper. Rear bumper and hood locks were re-plated. These parts were not original on this car, but they are original. Kcmash
  16. On the door, the adjustment you need to do is a door twist like you mentioned for the deck lid. I am NOT a body man, but the body man who did mine confirmed that you need to tweak the doors with a twist. Looks like you need a good top in bottom out on yours. Mine needs the opposite. Open the door, grab on and give her a tug. Pull the lower lip while pushing the upper area above the door handle. Kcmash
  17. Well a picture would help, but here is my guess. 1 You are correct that you have to drill the tail light panel to mount the valance. 2. My reproduction panel did come with holes for the 1973 bumper filler panel that covers the gap between bumper and tail light panel. If you do not have a 73, I suggest filling those holes before paint. kcmash
  18. Well I am ultra frustrated now. I did the 3 rear end decals from Phoenix Graphics. Same cut of vinyl, same soapy solution, same squeegee and I can’t get the passengers cap decal to adhere well enough to remove the backing. put it on 3 days ago. Hiring a professional to come finish the stripes tomorrow.
  19. I'm kinda worried about your Idle speed. 575 seems low to me. I think you should be at least at 800 to get the correct lubrication and oil splash for your cam. Just a thought. kcmash
  20. Well, I successfully got my original motor working again. First of all thanks to MotorCity Mustangs and my forum peers for the helpful advice. Secondly, there is a great guy named Sam at https://www.classicwipers.com/ who shared some great advice and help. Key Elements: Clean the brush Contact areas Let the springs relax fully extended overnight Clean the ground lug to ensure good continuity between the brass and the grommet.
  21. I do have a drivers side cowl top hat for a non-AC car. Saved it for the tophat piece since no one was reproducing back then. Let me know if I should dig it out for you. kcmash
  22. The only dumb question is the one not asked...... OK, so if I have good ground and the motor is bolted to the firewall. (Transmission disconnected) Which of the plugs on 4 way do I apply power to? Either of the 2 diagonal sets? One conductor at a time? Sorry, I cant read that schematic on the WIKI page. I am a mechanical guy. kcmash
  23. Well, I am running ou of ideas and getting frustrated. Tonight I check the ground just to make sure. I ran a continuity check with my Digital Volt Meter and found continuity between the mounting bolt and the housing. I checked the gearbox housing and the motor housing and got good continuity. I checked the OD of the motor housing, the tip of the motor housing all with good continuity to the ground bolt. So I figure, lets really push it and found good continuity between the motor housing and the shock tower cap bolts. Once again solid continuity tone. So my next question is what can go bad with the motor? Here are my thoughts. 1) Not being an electrical genius, is there a chance that the circuit card in the motor just went bad, even with the solid state electronics? 2)When I took the motor apart last night to clean it all out I learned there are 2 detents on the arm drive gear that drive a plastic piston that opens a circuit. The 2 detents are about 30 degrees apart. I have the drive lever set to where the wipers are home when the detents are 180 degrees away on the rotation. So when the wipers are parked the detents are on the other side of the gear. I don't see how this would make it NOT run even a little bit. 3) 13.5 volts to one pin in the harness on High, Another voltage to a different harness pin on low. Tells me my switch and harness are good. 4) I should bite the bullet and buy a reproduction motor? I cant understand what is wrong with this one. Where do I find an OEM quality replacement? Any help out there? kcmash
  24. Hope they're made on original grade 3M material that Graphic Express uses. I have no knowledge of Phoenix Graphics, not heard of them before. I bought set for mine back in 2013 from NPD and they were total crap, too thin and glue spots missing. However, to be fair, I have no idea who made those for NPD. Price isn't everything. I agree that price isn't everything. I have read a lot of good about Phoenix Graphics on line. I think they were comparable with pricing to Graphics Express. I was concerned about G-Express calling the color Argent Silver Metallic. No one was there to answer questions on the phone. Phoenix Graphics answered my color questions and advertise OEM equivalent quality. I hope I made a good choice. I guess I will know soon. kcmash
  25. OK, My turn here. I have my original motor. It worked when I started restoration decades ago. I have NOT checked any fuses yet, maybe that is next. 1) Neither speed works 2) I cleaned the ground strap so the through bolt makes good contact. Nothing works 3) I disconnected the wiper transmission from the motor. Nothing works 4) I removed the motor. Flushed the gearbox out, relubed with red n tacky. The gearbox spun very smoothe and free. Reloaded the motor, Everything bolted together nicely. Bolted it on the car to test, did not reconnect the wiper transmission. Nothing at all. Questions: 1) I have the arm coming off the motor toward the drivers side. Is there a chance that it is 180 degrees off from where it should be on the motor? I ask because I noticed when I had the motor apart that there is a detent that rises at a point in the rotation. I have that detent hit when the wipers are in the down position. Is that correct. Even if it is wrong, should the motor work anyway. 2) any chance I over torqued the arm to the motor. 3) The wire harness was getting power the other day, I assume it still is. Should I check that again ? I have been checking between the harness and the ground bolt on the motor mount What Should I do now. This is keeping me from license and cruise outings! kcmash
  • Create New...