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kcmash

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Everything posted by kcmash

  1. Still not totally comfortable with this whole mess. But here we go. H-pipe disconnected, tranny crossmember bolts loose, sway bar removed, fan shroud loosened.
  2. I believe the smaller. Chunks may be gear tooth chunks from a different issue.
  3. Thanks Tony, very helpful! Can you get the pan the whole way out without removing the oil pump that way. I will need to disconnect the H Pipe and loosen the tranny cross bolts to get that height. kcmash
  4. Tony, I am kinda stuck here. When you raised your block, how exactly did you support it? Did you release the motor mounts from the block and put a spacer block there, or release the crossing bolts and put a block between upper and lower motor mounts? Kinda stuck at this point. kcmash
  5. Drained the oil and swept the pan bottom with a magnet on a wand. Good news I found the broken roll pin pieces. Bad news I have no idea what else I found.
  6. Thanks for the links Don. Not being familiar with Duraspark technology, is there a coil pack that you need to buy to go with it, or what does the pigtail plug into, the big silver spark module? kcmash
  7. Nice article, and if I could find the Duraspark for the $69 in the article I would do it. I am finding $260 for just the Dizzy that needs recurve. kcmash
  8. Good point, but if the pump does not have a pressure bleed valve, higher volume in the same downstream flow orifice will result in a pressure increase. That is why there is more load on the drive gear at the distributor because the pump sees the back pressure. I dread changing pumps, but I see the risk of leaving the unknown pump in place as too high a risk. This last pin break has driven me to a tow bill, a new distributor, new mufflers since the old ones blew up. So I want to get to a reliable driver not a “keep a spare part” risky driver. kcmash
  9. So I am the one who assembled this engine and put it in. I bought the setup from another individual and I cannot recall if it is a high volume oil pump or not. If I do a mechanical gage, what pressure shows me it’s a high pressure versus a standard flow and pressure? Right now I have a new distributor on the way and a new melling oil pump with plans of going to something I know. Looks like using too high pressure will lead to unreliability and a lot of expense. kcmash
  10. Well I am looking at options. Distributor. Should I buy from a local parts house, a new one from CJ or NPD, or see if Ford will sell one. Are the ones from the Mustang vendors good enough for street use? Oil pump, CJ has Sealed Power brand, while OReilly has Melling. With all the restored crap on the car looking so clean, I am going to go in from the bottom. I also sold my engine stand and hoist a few years ago, so I don’t have those tools. kcmash
  11. Thought about the duraspark. What do you mean by properly curved? if I head to pic n pull and yank a dizzy from an 80 s or 90s F150 with a v8 will that work. otherwise I have my original dizzy from the original car with over 120k miles on it sitting in the garage. Sounds like everyone is saying go straight for an oil pump change. kcmash
  12. So here are my problems. 1) Neither O Reilly or Napa have the roll pins. They have some generic cad plated stuff but nothing strong. 2) The gear I have has 2 sets of cross drilled holes that look different sizes and it slips on. 3). I have been running the 20w 50 because that was the only weight they had on the shelf in high zinc. The good news, I have a spare dizzy shaft with a clean bore in it. So I am wondering this. With the poorly drilled holes and poorly fitting gear( non press fit) from Rock Auto combined with the 20w 50 enough to be the lethal combination. I am unsure if my pump is high volume or not. In other words should I do the following. A) Rebuild the dizzy with a new shaft , gear and double wall roll pin. B) Switch to a 10w 40 and use a zinc additive. C) Test drive to see if that puts my oil pressure back down to the middle of the gauge range.
  13. So let’s go a little deeper before I have to pull the friggin engine. I have been running the 20w 50 high sink Valvoline Vr1 oil since new. My oil pressure has been at the top of the range ever since I got it on the road. Yesterday when making my highway run, I had it up to 90 mph and possibly 3500 rpm. I went to normal residential speed and stop lights with normal temp and oil pressure. When making my return run on the highway I was closer to 70 mph when it failed. Do we think the problem is the way the holes are drilled in the dizzy shaft, or are the holes in the dizzy shaft the result of the failure? Also, do all dizzy gears have 2 sets of cross drilled holes, or should they only have 1? kcmash
  14. Well, my fears are being realized. If I am unsure of the oil pump is there any way to tell without pulling the pan? I remember you are supposed to be able to pull a pan with the engine in the car. Has anyone done that lately. So the good news is that when the pin sheared the engine was dead and the pump was not pumping, so no metal should have been sucked into the pump. I can pull the engine, but I really don’t want to. If there were a way to verify high volume versus low volume I may not need to pull the pan at all, just change the oil I appreciate the help. kcmash
  15. I know that Cleveland’s are advertised to have oil restriction problems, I will have to see what I put in there as the engine was purchased with all the parts and I assembled it nearly 10 years ago. Looks like the remanufactured dizzy didn’t help me either. The holes look really buggered up.
  16. BLUF: I sheared the dizzy gear roll pin yesterday at highway speed. Need to know how to get her back on the road. Details 351C 4v quench chamber , 4 speed car with 3:25 gears in the back. Motorsport M6250-A341 cam, non roller. About 1000 miles on the engine. Car was running great, oil pressure at the top of the gauge, temperature at the low end of normal. Ran westbound on the interstate for about 5 miles, reached speeds of 90 mph with no problems. stopped at a shop to see if a friend was there, it idled well and had no problems getting back up onto the highway. Cruising in traffic at about 70 MPH I suddenly lost power followed by loud explosive pops that I could feel in the floorboard. I pushed the clutch in and saw the tach at 0 as I am losing speed in the center lane of the highway. I try engaging the clutch to restart the engine and was greeted with more loud explosive banging. I coasted to the shoulder of the highway and tried restarting. It would crank but not fire. looking under the car I found that both Turbo Mufflers on the dual exhaust were blown wide open. Upon checking the rotor in the distributor I found the rotor could spin fairly freely, I could feel the drag of the oil pump, but it was not engaged with the cam. Had it towed home, pulled the Dizzy and found the pin was sheared. The gear shows no sign of damage, just a sheared pin. how do I fix this and make it reliable? I have a high volume oil pump which is likely the cause of the additional load on the dizzy gear according to some web research. Of course other sources say the gear should be pressed on, which I have never seen on a Ford. Will a higher strength roll pin solve the problem, or make me lose the oil pump drive shaft? Note, the dizzy was a Rock Auto refurbish unit, so I got whatever gear and roll pin they put in. kcmash
  17. Yep, So here is the latest. The pinching of the wire in the clamp was NOT the problem. When at a cruise night last week I found that the backup lamp switch had popped out of the retainer and was hanging by the wires. Well apparently when that happened the wiring laid across the H-pipe and melted through. I re-wrapped the harness, replaced the fuse, slid the BU lamp switch back in and I have NO confidence this will not happen again. I think I need to bend the retainer for a tighter bite on the switch and I need the proper wire harness routing for the back up lamp wiring. Right now if I get a good pop into reverse I feel it will push the switch out of the retainer again. In other news, the car is running great after my vacuum advance and timing adjustments. kcmash
  18. That probably explains it. A repop backup lamp switch and harness. It goes through the same firewall tie down clamp as the speedo cable. So when I changed speedo cables and put that clamp back on I bet I pinched the BU lamp harness and shorted it inside the jacketing. kcmash
  19. So that was another weird thing last night. I found that the backup lamp switch retaining hardware had vibrated loose leaving the actuator hanging under the car by the wires. So the fuse is definitely blown as I have no power to the radio either. Just need to figure out what caused that to blow. kcmash
  20. Thanks for the help and the good questions Mike and Don. A couple quick tests and more information. First, the car starts, runs and drives just fine. So I feel the column connector is still in good shape. Tested the horn and the hazards, they both work and the dash indicators for the hazards work . So I can probably button the dash back up. My thoughts now are that the speedo cluster harness plug may have hit a ground when disconnected, the tilt steering caused a short in the harness, or I knocked the flasher for the turn signals out of wack. I still need to check the fuse as I think hazard and flasher are on different fuses. Keep the suggestions coming. I appreciate all the help. kcmash
  21. The whole system. Another thought. I had to cycle the tilt column up and down several times in the process to get the cluster out and my fat a$$ in the car. Wondering if something went wrong there. kcmash
  22. Well it’s one step forward and one step back. Pulled the dash cluster to fix the speedo cable. Everything was working before tear down, no I don’t have turn signals. I have not checked the fuse panel yet, but I would like some ideas on what could have made them stop working before I put everything back together. I did notice on the speedo cluster flex circuit that 2 of the copper traces were coming loose from the backing Mylar at the connector interface, I tried to make sure I was careful with the connector, but I am wondering if one of those is not right. I don.t know if that would affect the entire turn signal circuit or not either. Another funny thing is the fact that my backup lamp switch came loose. Looks like the nuts backed off and got lost. I appreciate any help. I don’t want to pull the cluster any more than I have too. kcmash
  23. Totally depends on the condition of the cardboard on the back. kcmash
  24. Looked like it was a well equipped car. Tilt column, folding rear seat. I wonder if it was a cigarette or a faulty headlamp switch that started this one. kcmash
  25. Springs make no difference. Possible Vacuum Advance problem? Kcmash I did unplug the Ram Air vacuum lines and plug the ports. I then did the same with the vacuuadvance. It seemed to drive a lot better with that combination. So I need to know what to do with the Vacuum Advance now. Kcmash
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