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Posts posted by kcmash

  1. Ok I did the sending unit today.  See the pics with the quality differences between the Ford unit and the Taiwan unit.

    Taiwan, the ground pin is poorly designed and broke easily.  The Ford unit is bolted through the header

    Taiwan unit has no insulator around the pins for the harness boot to seal too.  Therefore all the harness related stresses go directly to the pins on the Taiwan unit.




  2. Sorry I have not replied this week.  Really busy.

    I have never thought about having to calibrate the sending unit float arm,  and I think I will pass on that activity.  The tilt the car idea sounds great,  I am able to band aid my current unit enough to see that I am between 1/4 and 1/8 tank, so I will look to switch senders soon.

    I can’t win on the exhaust.  Finally got into a exhaust shop that does custom and OEM exhaust and has a top notch reputation.  I have never seen another Mach 1 with the tips so poorly aligned with the valance.  Back to square 1.


  3. I tried doing the mufflers myself.  I now have a Wednesday appointment…..

    Today I am so pucking  fissed at the next pain in my a$$.  For some reason, the fuel sending unit plug started falling off on any drive, making the gas register empty on the gage.  I would reconnect, then it falls off the next time I drive it.  Usually when I get to 3rd gear or so.  Anyway, I crawl under the car to try putting a slight bend to one pin on the reproduction sending unit.  I center the plug, push it on, and one of the pins falls off the friggin sending unit.

    I assume the best thing to do is drain the tank and put my Ford unit back in.  I see no options for an electrically conductive epoxy, and I don’t dare try a 3 hand solder operation on a gas tank.  If it’s full, it won’t get hot enough for the pin to solder, if it is empty the risk of explosion is too high.

    Any good suggestions on how to proceed?  Any clever ideas for getting the tank drained?




  4. When at the small local, highly rated shop (even the local Ford Dealership uses them) the first thing I asked was if they could cut them off and weld them on the new mufflers.  The first reaction was ‘no’.  I assume they don’t have air chisels and spot weld drillers there.  They are a chop saw, flange, bend and weld shop.  I am afraid to cut them off myself because I can’t drive it to the shop then.

     Maybe I just buy mufflers,  cut and weld the brackets on the new ones, then install myself.


  5. The two broken metal pieces I question look like part of the oil control ring spacer between the oil rings on a piston.  I figure it’s either a one time break or something that will cause a failure eventually,  but I am not going to tear the engine down to look for the source.  I am going to leave it together.

    Now for the pain in the keester!  I went to the muffler shop Friday.  They could not install the new mufflers because they don’t have mufflers with the brackets welded on for the original style hangers.

    So I call the maker of my exhaust system to get the correct mufflers and he can’t help me because his source for the brackets is behind on deliveries.  So I try checking the major parts houses and none of them have the staff to pick up a phone and answer my questions.

    I mean really.  Now I can’t even buy mufflers to fit the OEM style hangers for our car.  I am so sick of not being able to get anything done easily anymore.  I mean really, I am off the road because no one has oem style mufflers?

    Sick of it….


  6. 2 hours ago, giantpune said:

    The two thinner pieces to the right kinda look like they were designed to capture a nut and keep it from spinning.

    More pictures would help.  Do the smaller parts on the right look like chunks of gear teeth?

    Either way, thats weight reduction.   Dont look a gift horse in the mouth.  :)

    I believe the smaller. Chunks may be gear tooth chunks from a different issue.

  7. 2 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

    I removed the bolt between upper and lower mounts and placed a 2x4 block in between. I raised one side at the time since at that time i didnt have an engine crane.

    Thanks Tony, very helpful!  Can you get the pan the whole way out without removing the oil pump that way.  I will need to disconnect the H Pipe and loosen the tranny cross bolts to get that height.


  8. On 5/31/2021 at 12:19 AM, tony-muscle said:

    You can take the oil pan out without removing the engine. I did it not long ago. However, you need to lift the engine a couple inches. I did it by jacking on the oil pan bolts with a piece of wood. After lifting the engine use a 2x4 between engine and mount. You can also lower the sway bar for more room. Get the oil pan down and replace the pump. It is tricky to get the oil pan up and making sure it seals.


    I am kinda stuck here.  When you raised your block, how exactly did you support it?  Did you release the motor mounts from the block and put a spacer block there, or release the crossing bolts and put a block between upper and lower motor mounts?  Kinda stuck at this point.


  9. Good point, but if the pump does not have a pressure bleed valve, higher volume in the same downstream flow orifice will result in a pressure increase.  That is why there is more load on the drive gear at the distributor because the pump sees the back pressure.

    I dread changing pumps, but I see the risk of leaving the unknown pump in place as too high a risk.  This last pin break has driven me to a tow bill, a new distributor, new mufflers since the old ones blew up.  So I want to get to a reliable driver not a “keep a spare part” risky driver.


  10. So I am the one who assembled this engine and put it in.  I bought the setup from another individual and I cannot recall if it is a high volume oil pump or not.

    If I do a mechanical gage, what pressure shows me it’s a high pressure versus a standard flow and pressure?

    Right now I have a new distributor on the way and a new melling oil pump with plans of going to something I know.  Looks like using too high pressure will lead to unreliability and a lot of expense.


  11. Well I am looking at options.

    Distributor.  Should I buy from a local parts house, a new one from CJ or NPD, or see if Ford will sell one.  Are the ones from the Mustang vendors good enough for street use?

    Oil pump,  CJ has Sealed Power brand, while OReilly has Melling.   With all the restored crap on the car looking so clean, I am going to go in from the bottom.  I also sold my engine stand and hoist a few years ago, so I don’t have those tools.


  12. So here are my problems.

    1) Neither O Reilly or Napa have the roll pins.  They have some generic cad plated stuff but nothing strong.

    2) The gear I have has 2 sets of cross drilled holes that look different sizes and it slips on.

    3). I have been running the 20w 50 because that was the only weight they had on the shelf in high zinc.

    The good news,  I have a spare dizzy shaft with a clean bore in it.

    So I am wondering this.  With the poorly drilled holes and poorly fitting gear( non press fit) from Rock Auto combined with the 20w 50 enough to be the lethal combination.  I am unsure if my pump is high volume or not.  In other words should I do the following.

    A) Rebuild the dizzy with a new shaft , gear and double wall roll pin.

    B) Switch to a 10w 40 and use a zinc additive.

    C) Test drive to see if that puts my oil pressure back down to the middle of the gauge range.




  13. So let’s go a little deeper before I have to pull the friggin engine.

     I have been running the 20w 50 high sink Valvoline Vr1 oil since new.  My oil pressure has been at the top of the range ever since I got it on the road.

    Yesterday when making my highway run, I had it up to 90 mph and possibly 3500 rpm.  I went to normal residential speed and stop lights with normal temp and oil pressure.  When making my return run on the highway I was closer to 70 mph when it failed.  

    Do we think the problem is the way the holes are drilled in the dizzy shaft, or are the holes in the dizzy shaft the result of the failure?  Also, do all dizzy gears have 2 sets of cross drilled holes, or should they only have 1?


  14. Well, my fears are being realized.  

    If I am unsure of the oil pump is there any way to tell without pulling the pan?  I remember you are supposed to be able to pull a pan with the engine in the car.  Has anyone done that lately.

    So the good news is that when the pin sheared the engine was dead and the pump was not pumping, so no metal should have been sucked into the pump.  I can pull the engine, but I really don’t want to.  If there were  a way to verify high volume versus low volume I may not need to pull the pan at all, just change the oil

    I appreciate the help.


  15. BLUF:  I sheared the dizzy gear roll pin yesterday at highway speed.  Need to know how to get her back on the road.


    351C 4v quench chamber , 4 speed car with 3:25 gears in the back.  Motorsport M6250-A341 cam, non roller. About 1000 miles on the engine.  Car was running great, oil pressure at the top of the gauge, temperature at the low end of normal.  Ran westbound on the interstate for about 5 miles, reached speeds of 90 mph with no problems. stopped at a shop to see if a friend was there, it idled well and had no problems getting back up onto the highway.  Cruising in traffic at about 70 MPH I suddenly lost power followed by loud explosive pops that I could feel in the floorboard.

    I pushed the clutch in and saw the tach at 0 as I am losing speed in the center lane of the highway.  I try engaging the clutch to restart the engine and was greeted with more loud explosive banging.  I coasted to the shoulder of the highway and tried restarting.  It would crank but not fire.

    looking under the car I found that both Turbo Mufflers on the dual exhaust were blown wide open.  Upon checking the rotor in the distributor I found the rotor could spin fairly freely, I could feel the drag of the oil pump, but it was not engaged with the cam.

    Had it towed home, pulled the Dizzy and found the pin was sheared.  The gear shows no sign of damage, just a sheared pin.

    how do I fix this and make it reliable?  I have a high volume oil pump which is likely the cause of the additional load on the dizzy gear according to some web research.  Of course other sources say the gear should be pressed on, which I have never seen on a Ford.  Will a higher strength roll pin solve the problem, or make me lose the oil pump drive shaft?

    Note, the dizzy was a Rock Auto refurbish unit, so I got whatever gear and roll pin they put in.


  16. Yep,

    So here is the latest.  The pinching of the wire in the clamp was NOT the problem.

    When at a cruise night last week I found that the backup lamp switch had popped out of the retainer and was hanging by the wires.  Well apparently when that happened the wiring laid across the H-pipe and melted through.    I re-wrapped the harness, replaced the fuse, slid the BU lamp switch back in and I have NO confidence this will not happen again.

    I think I need to bend the retainer for a tighter bite on the switch and I need the proper wire harness routing for the back up lamp wiring.  Right now if I get a good pop into reverse I feel it will push the switch out of the retainer again.

    In other news, the car is running great after my vacuum advance and timing adjustments.



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