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kcmash

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Posts posted by kcmash

  1. Thanks for the help and the good questions Mike and Don.

    A couple quick tests and more information.

    First, the car starts, runs and drives just fine.  So I feel the column connector is still in good shape.

    Tested the horn and the hazards,  they both work and the dash indicators for the hazards work .  So I can probably button the dash back up.

    My thoughts now are that the speedo cluster harness plug may have hit a ground when disconnected, the tilt steering caused a short in the harness, or I knocked the flasher for the turn signals out of wack.  I still need to check the fuse as I think hazard and flasher are on different fuses.

    Keep the suggestions coming.  I appreciate all the help.

    kcmash

  2. Well it’s one step forward and one step back.  
     

    Pulled the dash cluster to fix the speedo cable.  Everything was working before tear down, no I don’t have turn signals.  I have not checked the fuse panel yet,  but I would like some ideas on what could have made them stop working before I put everything back together.

    I did notice on the speedo cluster flex circuit that 2 of the copper traces were coming loose from the backing Mylar at the connector interface,  I tried to make sure I was careful with the connector, but I am wondering if one of those is not right.  I don.t know if that would affect the entire turn signal circuit or not either.

    Another funny thing is the fact that my backup lamp switch came loose.  Looks like the nuts backed off and got lost.

    I appreciate any help.  I don’t want to pull the cluster any more than I have too.

    kcmash

     

  3. Stanglover,

    I may have posted on this before, I cannot recall.  So thanks for reminding me.

    Since last time I worked this problem I added the 1/4 inch spacer gasket which is a single plane opening to avoid throttle plate drag and not interfere with the RAM Air interface height.  I have also broke out the timing light and made sure the timing is correct.  That part is holding well.

    I am very unimpressed with Holley's location for the fast idle adjustment screw.  That is just a dumb idea.  I seem to have that OK, but it is tough to get it to catch the first cold start, then it seems to hang on way too long, but I obviously have more to correct here.

    I was thinking of the solenoid route as mentioned above.  My Ford solenoid will not fit, and I am unsure of the correct bracket/solenoid for my Holley so far.

    So I will look at an additional spring to start things off.  If someone has more for me to try I am open to advice.

    KCMASH

  4. I need some help again.

    The Setup: 71 351c 4v quench heads, mild cam, Holley 670 Ultra carb, 1/4 inch spacer gasket, original throttle cable, 4-speed.

    The Problem: The car does not like to return to idle when driving.  Likes to hang at 1300 to 1500 at stop lights and between gears. When revving it tends to return to idle slow.  When warm and try to shut the car off it will knock and sputter then spew vapor out of the carb.  I often have to kill it with a clutch dump when it starts knocking.

    Advice needed:  Should I start with carb return springs.  All I have is the original Ford throttle cable.  Are they different for 2v, 4v, auto or manual?  Need some help here as this makes it not friendly to drive and embarrassing to turn off in front of others.

    kcmash

  5. Silly question, but I forget how full the radiator should be.  When I look down the fill opening there is a tube standing about 2/3 of the way up toward the cap.  My coolant level is about 4 inches below that.

    The last time I was out I was trying to adjust the timing.  I had been driving about 20 minutes and stopped to make an adjustment. I turned the car off for a couple minutes then started it to head out again.  Some spectators commented that I was loosing fluid.  When I checked the temp gage, it was all the way to the hot side.  I sat for about 20 minutes then decided to drive for home.  As I took off the temp went from 3/4 to high on the temp then finally started cooling and came down into the lower 1/3 of the gage for the rest of the trip home.

    So with no overflow reservoir I am concerned about running my fluid too low, and also concerned about over filling it.

    What is the correct coolant level?

    kcmash

  6. It does NOT look correct, but I think it is an easy fix.

    Considering that the cluster. Will go in and then you will have a plastic bezel on the top, you will not have visibility of the. repair area.  The most concerning part of this is getting that bent section straight enough to allow the air vent assembly to properly seat in its opening.  So I would use that vent as your guide to straightening the bent portion.

    kcmash

     

  7. On 1/22/2021 at 8:29 PM, Motorcity Mustang said:

    Interior is just about finished.  Console and dash pad are in!  Just new seat upholstery and door panels.  Was hoping to use my original seat coverings, but can't find an unscathed front bottom seat without a seam split or tear, so new it is.  Same on the door panels, can't see to find a nice straight, unscathed drivers door panel, or anyone that can repair the cracks in the arm rests (deluxe doors).  So may have to buy new ones.  

    IMG_7508.jpg

    IMG_7509.jpg

    IMG_7510.jpg

    IMG_7511.jpg

    Any good tips on locating the holes for the console through the new carpet?  I am thinking of coming up from the bottom side with a hot soldering iron so the screws wont snag the carpet.  Did you locate the previous mounting holes, or just drill new ones?

    kcmash

  8. On 12/21/2020 at 12:13 PM, cwalker509 said:

    I have a few NOS parts laying around and they seem to be worth quite a bit.  I have a NOS set of four wheel opening moldings that I am considering selling and just buying a repop set.  Will anyone share their  opinion on the repop wheel moldings?  It looks like the NOS ones go for about 85 each plus shipping!  I also have NOS chrome bumpers, std grille (listed on ebay already), rocker panel moldings, hood locks and a few other items (including front disc brake hoses).  As everyone here knows, it is not cheap even when using repops but if i can sell some of these items and get quality repops, why not?  I was happy with the rear bumper i got for my Mach (lighter gage but my old one was dented....not by me).

    How much for the hood locks?

    kcmash

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