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Everything posted by kcmash

  1. So I got a new 4 seasons blower motor with flange today. Put it in, ran a test, and it vibrates. Where should I go from here? Can I bench test the blower motor using a car battery? How do I balance the rotating assembly? Should I just find someplace to put new bearings in my original motor? Any help at all is appreciated.. kcmash
  2. Ok, I take that back. Looks like the top of your B pillar had something really bend the crap out of it. There should be a pretty even gap for the rear 1/4 window between the B and C pillars. Yours looks to have been pried open near the B pillar , causing the internal structure to drift away from the door toward the interior. On the outside, things look very poorly aligned. Repair or replace. You should have a good pattern on the drivers side to measure gaps and offsets. Are you more skilled at straightening metal or aligning and welding? That is a structural piece, so don’t mess the welds up there. It does not look like you have a rust problem with your B-pillar, so I would try to straighten it if you can. kcmash
  3. Not sure what is going on with yours. Here is a shot of my passengers side. The shot you show of the inner alignment with the rear wheel well looks good from your shots. I am unsure why you have such severe misalignment with your door. Pat yourself on the back for checking all that out before welding. kcmash
  4. Well, I obviously started the least popular post on the site. I will share what I have learned so far. 1) Yes, the blower can be removed without taking the dash out. Access just to the right of the accelerator pedal. The pedal does need to be removed. As a note, I removed my center stack and console, thinking this would help. I also pulled the drivers side bucket to give room for my fat a$$. 2). There are a couple different part numbers for the blower fans. The -aa and the -ab. Due to the contortion it takes to get the fan out, I ordered a new one. So, now I wait for the part to come in and stretch out after all the contortion. kcmash
  5. 72 facts book may be accurate. Mine was an early 71 with 4 wheel drum on a 2v Cleveland/ FMX power train. kcmash
  6. Spike, I am a believer. Mine was an odd duck like that too. 2v Cleveland Mach 1, Clock in the dash with the rare console Mach 1 block plate, center stack gages, tilt, and rear defrost. A stripe car with dog dish caps and 4 wheel power drum brakes. kcmash
  7. Several projects now that they salted the streets here in Kansas City. 1) Blower Motor - under the dash it squeals when running. I have a spare but have the following questions. a) Can the blower motor bearings be lubed in the car? Will it last? b) With the spare I have it is an original. Should I buy a new one, have it rebuilt, other? 2) Speedo cable. I have a bounce when it does work, but it works inconsistently. a) Do the experts feel this is a lube problem, or a connection problem at the dash cluster? b) There is one spot where it hit the exhaust and has some melting on the cable shielding. Should I consider a new one? 3) Passenger door Power Window Bezel - has anyone been able to make the factory clips work. I don’t understand how they are supposed to hold in the switch body. Has anyone found an alternate attachment method? 4) Front Bumper refinish. Looks like my original body man used flex agent in the paint, but not in the primer. a) how much should I expect to pay for a refinish on that. I own the paint already. The other projects I feel I understand well enough at this point. kcmash
  8. I added some pictures of the fenders yesterday. I also have a variety of other parts as you can see in the pics. Plus a lot of parts not pictured. Need to move them. Let’s talk. kcmash
  9. Well the picture you show has grade 5 markings on it. Not a stretch bolt or anything special.. A couple questions. 1)Are you sure that you are starting in the block hole. 2) is the motor sitting down on the mount, or is there a gap. 3) If you pull a bolt back out, are you getting metal chips? In other words are either the block or the bolt getting stripped out.? There should be no special trick to this fastener situation. It sounds like something is not aligning correctly. If the block threads are stripped you should be able to helicoil it. Another option is to jack the block up about 4 inches. Remove the cross bolt that ties the upper and lower motor mounts. Fasten the upper half to the block first and torque in place on both sides. Then set the motor back down and replace the cross bolt. kcmash
  10. Nice shot. Pretty girl who is respectfully covered too. kcmash
  11. “They” say not to do it. The coil spring force will push the suspension to its bottom limit. I believe the problem is the odd angles on the strut rod bushings, sway bar links, etc. I believe you can relive the problem by placing a piece of 2x4 under the upper a-arm and on top of the frame rail.. Or, set the tires on ramps or something for storage. kcmash
  12. My eyes are getting bad, but not bad enough to miss that! I bet that made for some ratty feeling brakes... I bet those brakes squealed like a mouse... What’s that burning smell... kcmash
  13. I think I found the problem. Now to figure out a fix. Note the chattered hot spots on the rotor.
  14. 71 Front Wheel Friction. Disk Brake, Magnum 500. In attempts to find my 40 MPH and above vibration, I put the front end in the air and tried spinning the tires. Right Front, maybe a half turn after a good push. Left Front, Possibly 3/4 Turn with the same style good push. That seems a little tight to me. Unsure if I have the bearings torqued down too tight, or if the pads are dragging. I have about 400 miles or less since restoration. All Brake components were new.(Calipers/Pads) What are your thoughts? kcmash
  15. My flappers rattle with cam vacuum at idle. I’m sure the original vacuum motors are weak, but mine kinda sit there and chatter or rattle at idle. Yep, Ram Air is NOT a supercharger by any means. kcmash
  16. Mine is Kansas City DSO and a lifelong Kansas City resident. Yep a salt belt car where dealer Rust Proofing was the norm. kcmash
  17. Just a thought. Have you checked all the hose connections? If you have a leaky connection I believe you can suck air in the low side. Does your fluid look foamy? That is another potential problem. kcmash
  18. Well, my car had some definite anomalies from the tried and true concourse guidance. I bought mine from the original owners in 1982 after 3 repaints by them. Originally a 4 wheel power drum, tilt steering, rear defog, clock in the dash car it had a few odd things. 1) Evidence of custom cutting and modifications on the firewall plate for the power brakes. 2) A silver painted intake on the 2v Cleveland engine that was completely stock looking in every other way 3) This coating on the original tank. Anyone could have applied it, but why? Kcmash
  19. I just used my original. You can wash them out and get all the water out. I sprayed mine with rattle can undercoating too for the original look. Mine had that on there from the factory as a sound deader I believe. I don’t think a bare steel tank is correct for our cars. I say don’t spend money where you don’t need too. Kcmash
  20. Well, I did torque in the air, but I thought that made no sense. When in the air and supported bu the rear axle housing, you should have the same up force load on the u-bolts as you do when sitting on the ground. The angle is slightly different but the force is the same. So being an engineer I am having a tough time thinking about having a bolt under it’s designed tensile load for the application while I am torquing the bolts. So anyway, I did use a torque wrench, torqued with the car supported by the rear axle, then supported it by the frame, letting the axle hang on the springs and double checked the torque. kcmash
  21. I googled the torque for a 9 inch Mustang U-bolt. I see the 65-66rs saying 30 ft lbs, but for the 9 inch I see a lot of 65 to 75 ft lbs. I guess we will see if they break while driving. Yep I am feeling pretty stupid this year. I have been off the road for over 20 years. With confined space there were times I put parts on the car so they would not get damaged, or to get them out of my way. So the advice I have for everyone is this. After restoration, have a nice long sunny Saturday where you buy the food and some drinks. Invite a gear head friend or 2 over and put the car up in the air. Go front to back checking every torque on every part of the suspension and drivetrain just to make sure. kcmash
  22. So I am glad I watched this. I went back to check the torque on the u bolts on mine and found them all loose. upon finding a missing nut I remembered that the u-bolt kit I bought years ago was missing one of the 8 nuts. I grabbed a spare I had, torqued them all to 65 and found a significant improvement in rear suspension quality. kcmash
  23. A few years ago the vendors were selling the wood grain for our doors and the center stack. I cannot find it anymore. I have heard you can buy the contact paper at Hobby Lobby or something like that and cut your own pattern. I think that when the price of vacuum mettalization went up and they started reproducing those parts, the market likely dried up. kcmash
  24. I have some originals that ran weak, so I bought new replacements If your car is a driver you can do what I did. Buy a new replacement motor, go to OReilly Auto or wherever you feel and buy the 2way connector for a couple of bucks. Splice the connector onto the new motor wires and it will plug right into your factory harness. Have your original rebuilt, or take it apart and clean it yourself. What failed on your original.? If it is just real slow it could be in the transmission part of the motor. I also learned when redoing my original wiper motor that the brushes and stator can get detrimentally dirty over time. A good cleaning of those parts and the old motor works again. kcmash
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