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Everything posted by kcmash

  1. Just a thought. Have you checked all the hose connections? If you have a leaky connection I believe you can suck air in the low side. Does your fluid look foamy? That is another potential problem. kcmash
  2. Well, my car had some definite anomalies from the tried and true concourse guidance. I bought mine from the original owners in 1982 after 3 repaints by them. Originally a 4 wheel power drum, tilt steering, rear defog, clock in the dash car it had a few odd things. 1) Evidence of custom cutting and modifications on the firewall plate for the power brakes. 2) A silver painted intake on the 2v Cleveland engine that was completely stock looking in every other way 3) This coating on the original tank. Anyone could have applied it, but why? Kcmash
  3. I just used my original. You can wash them out and get all the water out. I sprayed mine with rattle can undercoating too for the original look. Mine had that on there from the factory as a sound deader I believe. I don’t think a bare steel tank is correct for our cars. I say don’t spend money where you don’t need too. Kcmash
  4. Well, I did torque in the air, but I thought that made no sense. When in the air and supported bu the rear axle housing, you should have the same up force load on the u-bolts as you do when sitting on the ground. The angle is slightly different but the force is the same. So being an engineer I am having a tough time thinking about having a bolt under it’s designed tensile load for the application while I am torquing the bolts. So anyway, I did use a torque wrench, torqued with the car supported by the rear axle, then supported it by the frame, letting the axle hang on the springs and double checked the torque. kcmash
  5. I googled the torque for a 9 inch Mustang U-bolt. I see the 65-66rs saying 30 ft lbs, but for the 9 inch I see a lot of 65 to 75 ft lbs. I guess we will see if they break while driving. Yep I am feeling pretty stupid this year. I have been off the road for over 20 years. With confined space there were times I put parts on the car so they would not get damaged, or to get them out of my way. So the advice I have for everyone is this. After restoration, have a nice long sunny Saturday where you buy the food and some drinks. Invite a gear head friend or 2 over and put the car up in the air. Go front to back checking every torque on every part of the suspension and drivetrain just to make sure. kcmash
  6. So I am glad I watched this. I went back to check the torque on the u bolts on mine and found them all loose. upon finding a missing nut I remembered that the u-bolt kit I bought years ago was missing one of the 8 nuts. I grabbed a spare I had, torqued them all to 65 and found a significant improvement in rear suspension quality. kcmash
  7. A few years ago the vendors were selling the wood grain for our doors and the center stack. I cannot find it anymore. I have heard you can buy the contact paper at Hobby Lobby or something like that and cut your own pattern. I think that when the price of vacuum mettalization went up and they started reproducing those parts, the market likely dried up. kcmash
  8. I have some originals that ran weak, so I bought new replacements If your car is a driver you can do what I did. Buy a new replacement motor, go to OReilly Auto or wherever you feel and buy the 2way connector for a couple of bucks. Splice the connector onto the new motor wires and it will plug right into your factory harness. Have your original rebuilt, or take it apart and clean it yourself. What failed on your original.? If it is just real slow it could be in the transmission part of the motor. I also learned when redoing my original wiper motor that the brushes and stator can get detrimentally dirty over time. A good cleaning of those parts and the old motor works again. kcmash
  9. So today I decided to take a look and try some of the advice. First I rotated the driveshaft 180 degrees and reattached to the differential. That went smooth, so I decided to check the torque on the differential ubolts. They were way loose. So I torqued all of them to 65 ft lbs. Took a drive and the bumps felt a lot better, but the vibration is still there. The vibration is definitely in the steering wheel and feels like it comes through the seat too. Looks like winter weather arrives this week, so probably no more test drives this year. Not sure how to test this anymore. kcmash
  10. Do you have the original box for the NOS Grille.? That is a good start with the correct size and weight of cardboard. I believe the originals were wrapped in Kraft paper for in box protection. I bought a nice used original years ago for my car and it shipped fine in cardboard. kcmash
  11. I have a couple of the large diameter air cleaners that were on the 71 Cleveland cars. One is a base by itself, the other is a full assembly. PM me if interested. kcmash
  12. 303 is what I use on my Boat upholstery. It’s a 1999 and the seats are still buttery soft and in good shape. it’s a great product! kcmash
  13. Mike, A couple of things. 1] on the chrome clips I have only seen them 1 per side on these cars. That is what the assembly manuals show too. To bad you missed those clips, I tried to warn you in your last post on headliners. 2) I wanted an original look but a fresh seat look too. I ordered the TMI original looking covers. I am not smart enough to know the difference between original comfortweave and the reproduction covers.. they look great. kcmash
  14. I had squirrels chewing on our pergola this summer. Painted the area with ghost pepper salsa. No more chewing! kcmash
  15. Went for an awesome drive tonight and am having second thoughts. So the problem is the vibration is inconsistent. It seemed to get worse when the car warmed up then better. Not sure if I have something dragging in the brakes up front. But that stuff is all new, so that makes no sense. I am definitely puzzled. kcmash
  16. History is strange. Lots of parts collected. Rear pumpkin is a 3:25 posi that I had rebuilt. Driveshaft was purchased as a 4 speed driveshaft. I am unsure. New u joints on both ends. No I did not replace the tail shaft bushing. Why is removing the whole tranny easier. Disconnect the driveshaft, crossmember, speedo cable, shifter. 4 bolts to remove the tail shaft. 4 bolts to remove the tranny. Tail shaft is light, transmission is heavy. thanks kcmash
  17. OK. I think I am close on this but need some help. My car has exhibited a vibration when driving 40 and above since restoration. 351 4speed. Today I slid under the car to check u-joints and found this. When shaking the front of the driveshaft up and down at the transmission yolk, I get about 1/8 inch of play. This is with everything assembled. I feel this could be the source of the vibration. I did rebuild the transmission during restoration, but am unsure if I did the output shaft bearing. What do you think I need to test/replace to tighten this up? Is there another yolk bushing or something that goes in front of the output shaft seal that should support the yolk better? How tight should this all be? Should I just remove the tail housing and inspect that, or pull the whole tranny? Thanks for your help! kcmash
  18. There is no difference in the unibody construction from a 6 cylinder through a 429 SCJ. The metal and weld mints were all the same. Historical articles state that Ford redesigned the 71 chassis just to handle the big block. The 69 and 70 Mustangs had extra reinforcement at the base of the shock tower for big block cars, then the Boss 429 got more significant mods to the shock towers for 69 and 70. All of the other big block upgrades to the Mustang in 71 were bolt on. Rear axle, brakes, sway bars, springs. The only unibody weldment differences I can think of in the 71 are the dual exhaust receiver nuts in front of the rear axle, and the staggered shock upper mounting plate. Those features were not big block specific. kcmash
  19. I will need to pass on that. I already have some that could be perfect for less than the $700 in bodywork. Thanks for the reply. Good luck moving your parts kcmash
  20. On a personal note, please be cautious with your gaps. You can spend a lot of time trying to do better than factory then you discover what I did. When my car was painted and I moved to assembly the gap between the door and the B pillar was too tight to allow the door weatherstripping to fit. It was binding on the rubber and screw heads that hold the top of the weather strip on the tail end of the door. So at least put the weatherstrip and casters on for a check fit before paint. kcmash
  21. Whatcha want for that pair of front fenders? Are they as straight as they look? I would need them shipped to Kansas City. kcmash
  22. Question of the day. Is it possible to replace the passengers side bezel without removing the dash. Can I remove the glove box assembly and access all the fasteners? just trying to plan my pain..... kcmash
  23. For the experts out there I have this question. Was the pedal box different for the tilt column too. Seems as though my early 71 had extra bolts from the pedal box to the column. That is why I put the clutch pedal bushings in my original pedal box instead of using another manual pedal box. I also think the fuse box bracket mounts different. kcmash
  24. You must be getting younger Tony! I am debating whether to pull my column this year for a rebuild. No way do I think I will do it in 2029! kcmash
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