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kcmash

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Everything posted by kcmash

  1. 303 is what I use on my Boat upholstery. It’s a 1999 and the seats are still buttery soft and in good shape. it’s a great product! kcmash
  2. Mike, A couple of things. 1] on the chrome clips I have only seen them 1 per side on these cars. That is what the assembly manuals show too. To bad you missed those clips, I tried to warn you in your last post on headliners. 2) I wanted an original look but a fresh seat look too. I ordered the TMI original looking covers. I am not smart enough to know the difference between original comfortweave and the reproduction covers.. they look great. kcmash
  3. I had squirrels chewing on our pergola this summer. Painted the area with ghost pepper salsa. No more chewing! kcmash
  4. Went for an awesome drive tonight and am having second thoughts. So the problem is the vibration is inconsistent. It seemed to get worse when the car warmed up then better. Not sure if I have something dragging in the brakes up front. But that stuff is all new, so that makes no sense. I am definitely puzzled. kcmash
  5. History is strange. Lots of parts collected. Rear pumpkin is a 3:25 posi that I had rebuilt. Driveshaft was purchased as a 4 speed driveshaft. I am unsure. New u joints on both ends. No I did not replace the tail shaft bushing. Why is removing the whole tranny easier. Disconnect the driveshaft, crossmember, speedo cable, shifter. 4 bolts to remove the tail shaft. 4 bolts to remove the tranny. Tail shaft is light, transmission is heavy. thanks kcmash
  6. OK. I think I am close on this but need some help. My car has exhibited a vibration when driving 40 and above since restoration. 351 4speed. Today I slid under the car to check u-joints and found this. When shaking the front of the driveshaft up and down at the transmission yolk, I get about 1/8 inch of play. This is with everything assembled. I feel this could be the source of the vibration. I did rebuild the transmission during restoration, but am unsure if I did the output shaft bearing. What do you think I need to test/replace to tighten this up? Is there another yolk bushing or something that goes in front of the output shaft seal that should support the yolk better? How tight should this all be? Should I just remove the tail housing and inspect that, or pull the whole tranny? Thanks for your help! kcmash
  7. There is no difference in the unibody construction from a 6 cylinder through a 429 SCJ. The metal and weld mints were all the same. Historical articles state that Ford redesigned the 71 chassis just to handle the big block. The 69 and 70 Mustangs had extra reinforcement at the base of the shock tower for big block cars, then the Boss 429 got more significant mods to the shock towers for 69 and 70. All of the other big block upgrades to the Mustang in 71 were bolt on. Rear axle, brakes, sway bars, springs. The only unibody weldment differences I can think of in the 71 are the dual exhaust receiver nuts in front of the rear axle, and the staggered shock upper mounting plate. Those features were not big block specific. kcmash
  8. I will need to pass on that. I already have some that could be perfect for less than the $700 in bodywork. Thanks for the reply. Good luck moving your parts kcmash
  9. On a personal note, please be cautious with your gaps. You can spend a lot of time trying to do better than factory then you discover what I did. When my car was painted and I moved to assembly the gap between the door and the B pillar was too tight to allow the door weatherstripping to fit. It was binding on the rubber and screw heads that hold the top of the weather strip on the tail end of the door. So at least put the weatherstrip and casters on for a check fit before paint. kcmash
  10. Whatcha want for that pair of front fenders? Are they as straight as they look? I would need them shipped to Kansas City. kcmash
  11. Question of the day. Is it possible to replace the passengers side bezel without removing the dash. Can I remove the glove box assembly and access all the fasteners? just trying to plan my pain..... kcmash
  12. For the experts out there I have this question. Was the pedal box different for the tilt column too. Seems as though my early 71 had extra bolts from the pedal box to the column. That is why I put the clutch pedal bushings in my original pedal box instead of using another manual pedal box. I also think the fuse box bracket mounts different. kcmash
  13. You must be getting younger Tony! I am debating whether to pull my column this year for a rebuild. No way do I think I will do it in 2029! kcmash
  14. There is a tilt column expert just North of Kansas City. He was referred to me by WCCC. his name is Tony Augustine and his email is 6t8cougarguy@gmail.com When I decide to rebuild mine I will take it to him. He has the parts, new upgraded bushings, etc. and he will rebuild them for you too. kcmash
  15. DOT and NHTSA required the reverse lights. Not sure if you can pass inspection without them. kcmash
  16. Scrap the SS brake lines. Stainless is very hard compared to the galvanized or whatever the original material is. With the brass proportioning valve seats you will be fighting leaks for a while. From my experience you will regret stainless, but if you do decide to use it do this. Put the suspension and brake system together first, with the pedal box. Seal it all up bleed it and test it. That way if you ruin any paint with brake leaks you can repaint easily. If you do get brake fluid on paint, quickly use lots of soap and water to get rid of it. It eats paint quick. kcmash
  17. The 1970 428 4 sod shaker, spoiler, louver, Calypso Mach 1 for $4k restored in 1984 The 67 Gt350 for $2500 needs paint in 1986 The 69 390 4 speed Mach for $900 in 1985 The Boss 351 Trade for my blue car in 1983 I was always too short on money to grab one. Those were the high school and college years. kcmash
  18. I say restore. I simply repainted my power brake booster and it was fine. The ps boxes are a standard. I used Power Steering.com in Missouri and am happy. Unless you are doing something crazy with your driving, the original equipment is good to go. kcmash
  19. Yep I asked them for a quote. Still have not seen the email. The verbal quote is about $255. I found a deal on a repro for about $195. That’s what triggered my questions. Vendors vary about $45 on the reproduction center bezel. So does OMS have the same unit as CJ and NPD as well as Classic Industries and others? I was going to try the chrome pinstripe tape for borders and put a new wood grain decal on my center stack, but I cannot find the wood grain. kcmash
  20. Hello, Now that the bulk is over I am moving on to the pretty stuff. 1) Probably more for parts suppliers and vendors, but, are all the replacement dash bezels with the chrome, black, wood grain etc made by the same manufacturer? In other words, is there one set of the mold tooling for reproduction bezels out there and everyone else is the distribution chain? 2) Is the wood grain decal for the center stack bezel available anywhere today? I saw them a few years ago but cannot find them today. I was going to try to freshen up one of my originals if I could find that decal. Has anyone else noticed that is costs about 10-15 dollars more to send our bezels to a restoration place for re metallization, paint and decals than it does for the repo? kcmash
  21. Let me know. Mine is a factory tilt 71. Not sure if I should keep some spares. kcmash
  22. A couple notes. 1) The rockers on our cars were galvanized. So they rarely look bad. 2) I would try to find a 1/4 panel that has the one piece lower. They form the bottom edge like the factory had it instead of spot welding a second piece on. Just a suggestion. kcmash
  23. I have not tried them, I am still running original panels. I wonder why they are using treated pressboard. Why did they not go with plastic core panels to avoid clips tearing out? Or is that an error on the web site? kcmash
  24. Good questions. First it looks like you have the correct heads and someone did good to upgrade to roller cam and rocker setup. My car is finally on the road and I am trying to debug a few things. In the carb world I am unsure if I am undersized or maybe have another problem. I have the Holley 670 ultra on mine and I notice a slight stumble during more aggressive acceleration. Whether at lower speed or on the highway, it tends to hesitate or stumble noticeably during “more than normal” acceleration. I am not carb savvy enough to know if that is jetting, carb sizing, or ignition. It seems very challenging to size a carb for our 351 4v cars. According to Summit and Holley, a 600 to 650 is supposed to be fine. But on this forum and other Cleveland sites, I hear 750 all over the place. Kinda makes me wonder what the OEM carb would run like. kcmash
  25. Took mine on a last pre-snow drive here in Kansas City. Our local vendor, Mustangs Plus will be closing at the end of this year. Joe the owner has helped me find a lot of nice parts over the years, so I had to make sure he saw it before closing his doors. Still need to figure out the vibration. It feels like driveshaft or wheel bearing. kcmash Oh yeah, picked up a super nice horn pad for a 2 spoke wheel, and a new passengers side bezel for the dash..
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