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kcmash

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Posts posted by kcmash

  1. My car is an early 71. (Nov 70 Build date) Original power drum automatic. Future Power Disk 4 speed.

     

    The original pedal for my car has the nub on the pedal bar about an inch lower than the nub on the manual pedals I have. The plunger on my power booster hits too low to attach to the pedal shaft.

     

    Were there 2 different boosters available for 71? How do I get the right part for this brake conversion?

     

    Sorry...I am confused.

     

    For the record, your car originally had(Select 1 per line):

     

    Brakes: Power/NonPower Brakes

    Drum all 4/ Disc Front, Drum Back

     

    Trans: Automatic/Manual

     

    =======================

     

    I believe you are trying to accomplish:

     

    Installing new pedal set(clutch/brake) to accommodate your 4 Speed. However, you have an issue with the brake attachment.

     

    Are you sure you have the correct pedal set?

     

    Several members have done this. I suspect it will be a matter of time. Although, early models and late models do have their eccentricities.

     

    From your questions. 4 wheel drum, Power brakes, automatic


    You will need to get a pedal off an automatic with power brakes and just cut the pedal pad for a 4 speed car or not for an automatic. That was how I did mine and replaced the bushings while I was at it. I have one if you need it.

     

    That is what I did years ago too. The pedal that came on my car has the pad trimmed in width. My question is why do the manual pedals have the nub in different location? Are the pedals with the high nub from a 73 wih a different booster? Are they from disk cars, that had a different booster? Are the boosters interchangeable on all 71-73 power brake cars? Obviously with the higher nub you will get shorter plunger travel on the brakes.

     

    Yes, I can always use my trimmed manual pedal, I am just unsure why the other pedals won't work.:cool:

  2. My car is an early 71. (Nov 70 Build date) Original power drum automatic. Future Power Disk 4 speed.

     

    The original pedal for my car has the nub on the pedal bar about an inch lower than the nub on the manual pedals I have. The plunger on my power booster hits too low to attach to the pedal shaft.

     

    Were there 2 different boosters available for 71? How do I get the right part for this brake conversion?

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  3. The pedal box on the right has the fuse block holder on it. Which one are you installing? I took my spring assembly all apart to paint it and really had no problem on the reassembly end

     

    I want to use the box on the right. I just need to install a spring for the pedal assist. If you look close, there is no place to mount the fuse block bracket on the left pedal box. Also look at the difference in the main stamping right at th fuse block bracket area? Is that because the one on the right came from a tilt column car where the one on the left did not? By the way, I do need an assist spring. Anyone have a spare?

     

    The one on the left should have 2 holes for the block bracket. As for the boxes themselves Don at OMS can tell you the difference but I think your looking at a 71/72 vs a 73. The steering coloumns are differnt on the 73s. Don would also probably have a spring. Give him a PM or call 440-949-2556

     

    What color did you paint your pedal box? What did you buy it from? Thanks for the references and info above!

  4. The pedal box on the right has the fuse block holder on it. Which one are you installing? I took my spring assembly all apart to paint it and really had no problem on the reassembly end

     

    I want to use the box on the right. I just need to install a spring for the pedal assist. If you look close, there is no place to mount the fuse block bracket on the left pedal box. Also look at the difference in the main stamping right at th fuse block bracket area? Is that because the one on the right came from a tilt column car where the one on the left did not? By the way, I do need an assist spring. Anyone have a spare?

  5. Help!

     

    I am almost ready to reinstall the pedal box and steering column. My orifinal pedal box has a lot of differences in shape where the fuse block bracket resides. I have a second pedal box which was an original manual pedal assembly.

     

    First, has anyone ever successfully installed a pedal assist spring when converting an automatic pedal box to a manual pedal box.

     

    Second, What does the fuse block bracket for a 72 look like and where does it attach?

     

    Thanks forthe in put!

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  6. After figuring replacing the interior, frame, and body parts needed to bring this thing back to a 72 Sprint, there is no way to save this car. Practically every piece would have to be replaced and that's just not possible and still make the car worth it. So if you need any 72 Coupe parts. Let me know. The Interior is Black and the Exterior is Red (I did find white and blue where the painter missed)

     

     

    How much for the in-dash harness? What about the cat by the sidepipe?:D

     

    Please PM me about the harness. - Thanks!

  7. I have a C6 Automatic from a 72 CJ car that was rebuilt, has the yolk, the flex plate and the torque converter all of which are new (except for the yolk.)

     

    The unit is rebuilt and ready to go into a car with no cleaning or rework required. Has been stored inside under my workbench for the last 8 years. What can I get for this thing this week?

     

    Kris---


    I have a C6 Automatic from a 72 CJ car that was rebuilt, has the yolk, the flex plate and the torque converter all of which are new (except for the yolk.)

     

    The unit is rebuilt and ready to go into a car with no cleaning or rework required. Has been stored inside under my workbench for the last 8 years. What can I get for this thing this week?

     

    Kris---

     

    OK, looks like no one knows. I guess I will sell it to the local parts guy cheap and make room.

  8. Hey team!

     

    Multiple points of interest on this one. As I told another person, shipping is a lot less if don't take the rotors(they are really just good for core value I think). That would give spindles, backing plates, caliper brackets, calipers, dirt and grease.

     

    I am assuming they would be about 30lbs per pair without the rotors. I am not that good with shipping deals, so you can calculate your favorite way from 64014, Blue Springs, MO. Maybe $5 or so for me to package them

     

    76903 - Guestimate $30 UPS GRound + $5 Packaging

    37716 - Same as above UPS Ground -after holidays+ $5 Packaging

  9. guys i picked up another project and am selling alot of stuff i have gotten through 3 cars, etc so if your looking for something just askeverything is mostly 71 or 72 fastback mach 1 stuff.

    im in pa, i dont prefer shipping larger objects

     

    things i dont have to save some time

    ram air stuff

    4 speed stuff

    fold down seat plastics

     

    anything else is fair game,

    i also have some stuff left for a vert

    complete top frame motor and wiring=80

    interior plastics blue in color= 40

     

    also two sets of 87- 93 foxbody black door panels for a gt, pretty good shape some flaws in map pockets and speaker grills missing, 100 per pair

     

    I need a pasengers side coil spring cover. How much for the cleanest one you have?

  10. Has anyone restored an old rotor as part of their restoration? I am trying to save money and want to know if anyone removes the scale from the cooling slots and hub area, then use cast blast or other paint on the non-wear parts of the rotor? Also, when storing for a long while during restoration, how do you keep the machined rotor surfaces from rusting?

     

    Thanks!

  11. Aren't the originals satin finished in the center and polished (shiny) finish on the outer. I read an in Hemmings Muscle Car magazine article that said the satin centers were the "standard" magnum and the shiny chrome center was the "deluxe" magnum. I had never heard of an original with the shiny center.

     

    I agree, I have never seen shiny centers. I have some original 14 inchers on mycar now that I pulled off a Junkyard Torino in 1983. Satin centers. The centers were processed seperately then welded to the shiny rims.

     

    I noticed that the original magnums have an extra detail in the rims too that I have not seen on any repo's.

  12. What is your car?

     

    Mine is a 71 Mach, Grabber Blue.

     

    Original 2v Cleveland/FMX, Drums all around, A/C, Tilt, Rear Defog, Black/grey interior, triple gage dash with in-dash CLOCK.

     

    Using all Ford original parts it will be restored as: 351C 4V/ 4Speed, Disc brakes, ram air, spoilers, Tach, power windows, Magnum 500's, plus the original options.

  13. Correct Center caps with them?

     

    I need to see if they are still there.


    IMO, depends on how bad you want 'em.

    A LOT depends on your definition of "normal wear".

    Need pics and asking price to give a more accurate evaluation.

     

    If I were buying... maybe $100 average?

     

    I was thinking about 400-500 for the set too. I need to put other wheels on the car though so I can take these.

  14. Well I drove the mach1 to work yesterday and noticed it had a miss. I jumped on the throttle a few times to check it out and once in a while it would take off other times it would sputter and miss. Well I just figured i got bad fuel again or something. Nothing major. I keep a very good eye on all my guages and everything was reading as it should. On the way home more of the same. I turned onto my road and ran 1st gear up to about 4800-5000 rpm shifted to 2nd and BANG!!! CLANK!! and every other bad sound you dont want to hear from your motor that has less than 7,000 miles on it!!! i pulled over to the side of the rode and had it towed home. I got to look at it this morning a little and did not like what i had found. Drained the oil, and found about a gallon off anti-freeze in it. Also some nice size chunks off metal coming out drain plug hole and others that were too big to come out. Pulled the plugs and found 2 smashed #1 & #6. Pulled the carb and inside the intake found what looks like pieces of valves and pistons. This sucks bad. I wont get a chance to pull the motor for another week or two to see what all the damage is but it is not good!! Hoping that the block is still good but doubt it with that much metal all through the motor. The motor never heated up never lost oil pressure or anything. had a little miss that day but that was it. Im guessing either a water jacket broke into the motor, head gasket went, or head cracked and dumped water into a cylinder and hydro-locked and busted rod/ piston/ crank.....whatever else!! This motor is only about 2 years old from a COMPLETE top to bottom rebuild. If the block or heads are junk i dont know if i should build another cleveland or something else??? I have all the goodies for a cleveland..... intake, roller rockers, headers, billet dizzy.....etc etc. If i do build another cleveland I was thinking about going with the 408 stroker kit and / or some twisted wedge aluminum heads. depending on the money. If i can do both the heads and stroker i will but if not i will go either stroker or heads.what would run better? stock crank 351 with aluminum heads or stroked 408 with stock heads?? Again this all depends on what i can salvage from my motor. Sorry for the long post guys!!! Just venting and highly upset!!! I need a beer:huh:

     

    Heres a couple pics of the pieces and plugs.

     

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    Why are there chunks of metal in the intake? Any chance of sabotage?

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