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kcmash

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Everything posted by kcmash

  1. There is a tilt column expert just North of Kansas City. He was referred to me by WCCC. his name is Tony Augustine and his email is 6t8cougarguy@gmail.com When I decide to rebuild mine I will take it to him. He has the parts, new upgraded bushings, etc. and he will rebuild them for you too. kcmash
  2. DOT and NHTSA required the reverse lights. Not sure if you can pass inspection without them. kcmash
  3. Scrap the SS brake lines. Stainless is very hard compared to the galvanized or whatever the original material is. With the brass proportioning valve seats you will be fighting leaks for a while. From my experience you will regret stainless, but if you do decide to use it do this. Put the suspension and brake system together first, with the pedal box. Seal it all up bleed it and test it. That way if you ruin any paint with brake leaks you can repaint easily. If you do get brake fluid on paint, quickly use lots of soap and water to get rid of it. It eats paint quick. kcmash
  4. The 1970 428 4 sod shaker, spoiler, louver, Calypso Mach 1 for $4k restored in 1984 The 67 Gt350 for $2500 needs paint in 1986 The 69 390 4 speed Mach for $900 in 1985 The Boss 351 Trade for my blue car in 1983 I was always too short on money to grab one. Those were the high school and college years. kcmash
  5. I say restore. I simply repainted my power brake booster and it was fine. The ps boxes are a standard. I used Power Steering.com in Missouri and am happy. Unless you are doing something crazy with your driving, the original equipment is good to go. kcmash
  6. Yep I asked them for a quote. Still have not seen the email. The verbal quote is about $255. I found a deal on a repro for about $195. That’s what triggered my questions. Vendors vary about $45 on the reproduction center bezel. So does OMS have the same unit as CJ and NPD as well as Classic Industries and others? I was going to try the chrome pinstripe tape for borders and put a new wood grain decal on my center stack, but I cannot find the wood grain. kcmash
  7. Hello, Now that the bulk is over I am moving on to the pretty stuff. 1) Probably more for parts suppliers and vendors, but, are all the replacement dash bezels with the chrome, black, wood grain etc made by the same manufacturer? In other words, is there one set of the mold tooling for reproduction bezels out there and everyone else is the distribution chain? 2) Is the wood grain decal for the center stack bezel available anywhere today? I saw them a few years ago but cannot find them today. I was going to try to freshen up one of my originals if I could find that decal. Has anyone else noticed that is costs about 10-15 dollars more to send our bezels to a restoration place for re metallization, paint and decals than it does for the repo? kcmash
  8. Let me know. Mine is a factory tilt 71. Not sure if I should keep some spares. kcmash
  9. A couple notes. 1) The rockers on our cars were galvanized. So they rarely look bad. 2) I would try to find a 1/4 panel that has the one piece lower. They form the bottom edge like the factory had it instead of spot welding a second piece on. Just a suggestion. kcmash
  10. I have not tried them, I am still running original panels. I wonder why they are using treated pressboard. Why did they not go with plastic core panels to avoid clips tearing out? Or is that an error on the web site? kcmash
  11. Good questions. First it looks like you have the correct heads and someone did good to upgrade to roller cam and rocker setup. My car is finally on the road and I am trying to debug a few things. In the carb world I am unsure if I am undersized or maybe have another problem. I have the Holley 670 ultra on mine and I notice a slight stumble during more aggressive acceleration. Whether at lower speed or on the highway, it tends to hesitate or stumble noticeably during “more than normal” acceleration. I am not carb savvy enough to know if that is jetting, carb sizing, or ignition. It seems very challenging to size a carb for our 351 4v cars. According to Summit and Holley, a 600 to 650 is supposed to be fine. But on this forum and other Cleveland sites, I hear 750 all over the place. Kinda makes me wonder what the OEM carb would run like. kcmash
  12. Took mine on a last pre-snow drive here in Kansas City. Our local vendor, Mustangs Plus will be closing at the end of this year. Joe the owner has helped me find a lot of nice parts over the years, so I had to make sure he saw it before closing his doors. Still need to figure out the vibration. It feels like driveshaft or wheel bearing. kcmash Oh yeah, picked up a super nice horn pad for a 2 spoke wheel, and a new passengers side bezel for the dash..
  13. I would like for mine to be in November if at all possible. My car is a Nov 70 Build, and I am a November 1966 baby.
  14. First off determine if they are 73 or the 71/72 as they have a difference in the headlight brow length. After that I see what the reproduction units are going for. If yours are free of any rust and ready to go you can get more than the reproduction cost. I have several fenders and a pair of doors that all need some work, but they are good Ford pieces. kcmash
  15. I suggest you take it to a shop. My front bolt was one with the eyelet and bushing. I was only 33 at the time and the job totally sucked. Luckily I was tearing mine down, because by the time I was through cutting on it and realized I still couldn't get it apart, there was no way to make it drivable again. I had my bodyman clean up my mess. I think an Acetylene torch is mandatory for that bolt. kcmash
  16. I believe it is a 1/4 inch nut driver to capture the head. There is a hex head cap screw in there, the correct size standard socket has the same OD as the molded vinyl opening. So I am thinking it is 1/4 or 5/16. Let us know if that helps. kcmash
  17. I went with Hagerty. My Allstate agent said they recommended it. Price and coverage seemed good. kcmash
  18. Yes, they are in the new 2020 NPD Catalog. Saw it yesterday. kcmash
  19. Do you have a good 4 core radiator and a fan shroud.? I have known many people to have overheating Cleveland issues when they don’t have the fan shroud on 71 through 73s. I know the 69s has a lot smaller fan shroud and a narrower radiator than the 71s. is your 69 an original Cleveland car, or was this an upgrade from a Windsor or 302?. Let me know on the shroud thing, ok? kcmash
  20. Agreed that the quick turn upgrade will have zero effect on the pump or the noise.. With my car I had Powersteering.com do the box and I got a replacement pump from Rock Auto due to intermittent power. To stop the noise in our system I suspended the front wheels, with the car off and went stop to stop about 20 times with a full reservoir. This was different than the bleed instructions from Powersteering.com and from Dorman/ Rock auto. Mine does well now. I did call Marty at PS.com and agreed that this was the way to go for the Mustang. I hope that helps. kcmash
  21. Good question. I would make sure they get to a Mustang parts vendor or to someone on this site. My can was original 4 wheel drum with 14 Inch dog dish and beauty rings. I will never go back. I traded the wheels away when I went with 14 inch Magnums from a Torino, then sold those when I found Original 15 inch Magnums. There are a lot of people going to the original Dog Dish look since the Magnum 500s are so over used now. I would try selling here and on the Facebook site. kcmash
  22. Just make sure when you get it in the car to double check the gear lube level. I know from experience that they run quieter and shift easier with oil in them versus dry. kcmash
  23. With a name like Spike Morelli and that Hollywood smile in your profile pic, I can’t think of where else you could possibly fit in! I still think Kansas City is most underrated city in the US. Of course if people knew what we have it may end up like other places that people want to move out of. kcmash
  24. Took a little sunset cruise last night and stopped for a few pics.
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