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Everything posted by kcmash

  1. I would like for mine to be in November if at all possible. My car is a Nov 70 Build, and I am a November 1966 baby.
  2. First off determine if they are 73 or the 71/72 as they have a difference in the headlight brow length. After that I see what the reproduction units are going for. If yours are free of any rust and ready to go you can get more than the reproduction cost. I have several fenders and a pair of doors that all need some work, but they are good Ford pieces. kcmash
  3. I suggest you take it to a shop. My front bolt was one with the eyelet and bushing. I was only 33 at the time and the job totally sucked. Luckily I was tearing mine down, because by the time I was through cutting on it and realized I still couldn't get it apart, there was no way to make it drivable again. I had my bodyman clean up my mess. I think an Acetylene torch is mandatory for that bolt. kcmash
  4. I believe it is a 1/4 inch nut driver to capture the head. There is a hex head cap screw in there, the correct size standard socket has the same OD as the molded vinyl opening. So I am thinking it is 1/4 or 5/16. Let us know if that helps. kcmash
  5. I went with Hagerty. My Allstate agent said they recommended it. Price and coverage seemed good. kcmash
  6. Yes, they are in the new 2020 NPD Catalog. Saw it yesterday. kcmash
  7. Do you have a good 4 core radiator and a fan shroud.? I have known many people to have overheating Cleveland issues when they don’t have the fan shroud on 71 through 73s. I know the 69s has a lot smaller fan shroud and a narrower radiator than the 71s. is your 69 an original Cleveland car, or was this an upgrade from a Windsor or 302?. Let me know on the shroud thing, ok? kcmash
  8. Agreed that the quick turn upgrade will have zero effect on the pump or the noise.. With my car I had Powersteering.com do the box and I got a replacement pump from Rock Auto due to intermittent power. To stop the noise in our system I suspended the front wheels, with the car off and went stop to stop about 20 times with a full reservoir. This was different than the bleed instructions from Powersteering.com and from Dorman/ Rock auto. Mine does well now. I did call Marty at PS.com and agreed that this was the way to go for the Mustang. I hope that helps. kcmash
  9. Good question. I would make sure they get to a Mustang parts vendor or to someone on this site. My can was original 4 wheel drum with 14 Inch dog dish and beauty rings. I will never go back. I traded the wheels away when I went with 14 inch Magnums from a Torino, then sold those when I found Original 15 inch Magnums. There are a lot of people going to the original Dog Dish look since the Magnum 500s are so over used now. I would try selling here and on the Facebook site. kcmash
  10. Just make sure when you get it in the car to double check the gear lube level. I know from experience that they run quieter and shift easier with oil in them versus dry. kcmash
  11. With a name like Spike Morelli and that Hollywood smile in your profile pic, I can’t think of where else you could possibly fit in! I still think Kansas City is most underrated city in the US. Of course if people knew what we have it may end up like other places that people want to move out of. kcmash
  12. Took a little sunset cruise last night and stopped for a few pics.
  13. Me I have a long list of wants, but you asked for one. 1967 Shelby GT500 4 speed in Yellow with black stripes and interior. Preffered to be in nice daily driver condition, so I could drive it everywhere without worry. Kcmash
  14. OK gang, I took it out for a short drive after the unloaded bleeding the other day. I did about 20 cycles left to right with wheels off the ground and the engine off. I still have a little air to bleed as there is some slight groaning from the steering. The steering felt nice and the assist felt great. So what was wrong with mine? 1) A retaining ring was not seated properly that affected the rotating valve. 2) A defective High Pressure hose that failed at the crimp. Now the bad retaining ring could have caused a detrimental pressure situation that taxed the hose, but the hose did slip out of the crimp. I am feeling a lot better about this now. kcmash
  15. So my drivers window rattles when down. After putting it all together with the anti rattle clips and the favored red and tacky I found that I did not adjust my stops properly. According to the factory prints the windows should be 1/4 inch above the belt line weather strip at the high point of the window when the down stops are properly adjusted. if I stop my windows at the right point they don’t rattle. kcmash
  16. So mine is a tilt column. The shaft from the steering has a flat milled on one side which keys to the rag joint. Only one way to align it. i did not realize at the time that there is a clocking scribe in the 2 spoke steering wheel, so I eyeballed it during assembly. Since the car had not been running yet I did not realize I was off when the car is moving. Does that make semse? kcmash
  17. Geoff, I am trying to follow you. The input shaft is keyed to the rag joint, the rag joint keyed to the input on the box. I an not happy with the way the steering column shaft does not go further into the rag joint, but it is in about 1/2 inch. So if my steering wheel is off, no biggie, correct. I do need to adjust it by about 10 degrees anyway. I appreciate the suggestions on the unloaded bleeding. kcmash
  18. Ok I need some more help. Power steering box is back in, and new high pressure hose installed. I filled the system by adding fluid and cranking, then repeating. Once the fluid level was stable I pushed the car outside and started it. I then began slowly turning side to side . Right was better than left. Some groaning and not so well assisted steering. I shut it off and found it was pushing fluid out the fill tube. I removed the dipstick to check level and there was foamy/bubbly fluid near the top of the tube. I started it again and tried cycling left to right figuring it needed to push more excess fluid out, but the assist was getting worse and feeling tighter. So then I thought I must be letting air get sucked in through the fill tube making it worse. I replaced the dipstick and tried starting and cycling the steering again with intermittent assist and some really tough spots. So I shut it down to look for advice. 1) When installing the steering box, the mechanism did get turned some from left to right as I connected the rag joint and drag link. 2) I am unsure if the bleeding procedure I used is correct. I saw one from Dorman with the rebuilt pump that said to disconnect the return hose when adding fluid until clear, bubble free fluid came out. I did find a small amount of fluid pooled around the return hose at the box connection, so that could be an air intake source. Finally, I thought, gee, did I maybe get the hoses switched at the box and sending high pressure in the low side. I checked all the restoration guides that show the high pressure going in the port closer to the engine, which is how mine is connected. Any suggestions. kcmash
  19. Maybe 200 miles on it. It was still running and shifting last outing. i am getting real tired of this power steering crap. I can’t seem to get the damn thing bled and working for anything. kcmash
  20. Well today I got my new power steering hose in. So I crawled around and got that installed. While under the car I decided to check the tranny gear oil level. So I deserve aging idiot award. Apparently I never did put gear oil in after rebuilding. So I did discover why my tranny whined. I guess we will see if I rebuild this winter.
  21. Wow$300 for a repopulated. I guess I need to sell my NOS unit! kcmash
  22. I have multiple that need some work. PM me if interested. None of them are “paint and go” kcmash
  23. So I must give kudos to a couple vendors out there. 1) I worked with National Parts Depot on the hose. Provided photos, and talked about the concerns with the crimp. They checked inventory and found one they thought looked better than my crimp and are replacing at their cost. I sent them a few pics of my car, so you may see it in an upcoming catalogue ( yeah right 😉) 2) Marty at Power Steering.com told me they did find a retaining ring out of place that likely caused some of my erratic power assist conditions. The box will arrive back here tomorrow and he even refunded me some money for my trouble. I strongly recommend them for good customer service. Hopefully I can get the steering reassembled this weekend. kcmash
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