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Posts posted by kcmash

  1. Yep I asked them for a quote.  Still have not seen the email.

    The verbal quote is about $255.  I found a deal on a repro for about $195.  That’s what triggered my questions.  Vendors vary about $45 on the reproduction center bezel.  So does OMS have the same unit as CJ and NPD as well as Classic Industries and others?

    I was going to try the chrome pinstripe tape for borders and put a new wood grain decal on my center stack, but I cannot find the wood grain. 


  2. Hello,

    Now that the bulk is over I am moving on to the pretty stuff.

    1) Probably more for parts suppliers and vendors, but, are all the replacement dash bezels with the chrome, black, wood grain etc made by the same manufacturer?  In other words, is there one set of the mold tooling for reproduction bezels out there and everyone else is the distribution chain?

    2) Is the wood grain decal for the center stack bezel available anywhere today?  I saw them a few years ago but cannot find them today.  I was going to try to freshen up one of my originals if I could find that decal.

    Has anyone else noticed that is costs about 10-15 dollars more to send our bezels to a restoration place for re metallization, paint and decals than it does for the repo?




  3. Good questions.

    First it looks like you have the correct heads and someone did good to upgrade to roller cam and rocker setup.

    My car is finally on the road and I am trying to debug a few things.  In the carb world I am unsure if I am undersized or maybe have another problem.  I have the Holley 670 ultra on mine and I notice a slight stumble during more aggressive acceleration.  Whether at lower speed or on the highway, it tends to hesitate or stumble noticeably during “more than normal” acceleration.  I am not carb savvy enough to know if that is jetting, carb sizing, or ignition.

    It seems very challenging to size a carb for our 351 4v cars.  According to Summit and Holley, a 600 to 650 is supposed to be fine.  But on this forum and other Cleveland sites, I hear 750 all over the place.

    Kinda makes me wonder what the OEM carb would run like.



  4. Took mine on a last pre-snow drive here in Kansas City.

    Our local vendor, Mustangs Plus will be closing at the end of this year.  Joe the owner has helped me find a lot of nice parts over the years, so I had to make sure he saw it before closing his doors.

    Still need to figure out the vibration.  It feels like driveshaft or wheel bearing.


    Oh yeah,  picked up a super nice horn pad for a 2 spoke wheel, and a new passengers side bezel for the dash..



  5. First off determine if they are 73 or the 71/72 as they have a difference in the headlight brow length.

    After that I see what the reproduction units are going for.  If yours are free of any rust and ready to go you can get more than the reproduction cost.

    I have several fenders and a pair of doors that all need some work, but they are good Ford pieces.


  6. 28 minutes ago, Stanglover said:

    Good point on the eye bolt.

    I guess I'm spoiled on mine as there was no such thing as a rusted bolt or nut anywhere.

    Also perhaps use anti-seize on the bolts going back in.

    I suggest you take it to a shop.

    My front bolt was one with the eyelet and bushing.  I was only 33 at the time and the job totally sucked.  Luckily I was tearing mine down, because by the time I was through cutting on it and realized I still couldn't get it apart, there was no way to make it drivable again.  I had my bodyman clean up my mess.

    I think an Acetylene torch is mandatory for that bolt.


  7. Do you have a good 4 core radiator and a fan shroud.?  I have known many people to have overheating Cleveland issues when they don’t have the fan shroud on 71 through 73s.  I know the 69s has a lot smaller fan shroud and a narrower radiator than the 71s.  

    is your 69 an original Cleveland car, or was this an upgrade from a Windsor or 302?.

    Let me know on the shroud thing, ok?


    • Like 1
  8. Agreed that the quick turn upgrade will have zero effect on the pump or the noise..

    With my car I had Powersteering.com do the box and I got a replacement pump from Rock Auto due to intermittent power.

    To stop the noise in our system I suspended the front wheels, with the car off and went stop to stop about 20 times with a full reservoir.  This was different than the bleed instructions from Powersteering.com and from Dorman/ Rock auto.  Mine does well now.  I did call Marty at PS.com and agreed that this was the way to go for the Mustang.

    I hope that helps.



    • Like 1
  9. Good question.  I would make sure they get to a Mustang parts vendor or to someone on this site.  

    My can was original 4 wheel drum with 14 Inch dog dish and beauty rings.  I will never go back.  I traded the wheels away when I went with 14 inch Magnums from a Torino, then sold those when I found Original 15 inch Magnums.

    There are a lot of people going to the original Dog Dish look since the Magnum 500s are so over used now.  I would try selling here and on the Facebook site.


  10. With a name like Spike Morelli and that Hollywood smile in your profile pic, I can’t think of where else you could possibly fit in!

    I still think Kansas City is most underrated city in the US.  Of course if people knew what we have it may end up like other places that people want to move out of.


    • LOL 1
  11. Me I have a long list of wants, but you asked for one.

    1967 Shelby GT500 4 speed in Yellow with black stripes and interior.   Preffered to be in nice daily driver condition, so I could drive it everywhere without worry.


  12. OK gang,

    I took it out for a short drive after the unloaded bleeding the other day.  I did about 20 cycles left to right with wheels off the ground and the engine off.

    I still have a little air to bleed as there is some slight groaning from the steering.  The steering felt nice and the assist felt great.  

    So what was wrong with mine?

    1) A retaining ring was not seated properly that affected the rotating valve.

    2) A defective High Pressure hose that failed at the crimp.  Now the bad retaining ring could have caused a detrimental pressure situation that taxed the hose, but the hose did slip out of the crimp.

    I am feeling a lot better about this now.


    • Like 1
  13. So my drivers window rattles when down.  After putting it all together with the anti rattle clips and the favored red and tacky I found that I did not adjust my stops properly.

    According to the factory prints the windows should be 1/4 inch above the belt line weather strip at the high point of the window when the down stops are properly adjusted.

    if I stop my windows at the right point they don’t rattle.



  14. So mine is a tilt column.  The shaft from the steering has a flat milled on one side which keys to the rag joint.  Only one way to align it.

    i did not realize at the time that there is a clocking scribe in the 2 spoke steering wheel, so I eyeballed it during assembly.  Since the car had not been running yet I did not realize I was off when the car is moving.

    Does that make semse?



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