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kcmash

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Everything posted by kcmash

  1. Me I have a long list of wants, but you asked for one. 1967 Shelby GT500 4 speed in Yellow with black stripes and interior. Preffered to be in nice daily driver condition, so I could drive it everywhere without worry. Kcmash
  2. OK gang, I took it out for a short drive after the unloaded bleeding the other day. I did about 20 cycles left to right with wheels off the ground and the engine off. I still have a little air to bleed as there is some slight groaning from the steering. The steering felt nice and the assist felt great. So what was wrong with mine? 1) A retaining ring was not seated properly that affected the rotating valve. 2) A defective High Pressure hose that failed at the crimp. Now the bad retaining ring could have caused a detrimental pressure situation that taxed the hose, but the hose did slip out of the crimp. I am feeling a lot better about this now. kcmash
  3. So my drivers window rattles when down. After putting it all together with the anti rattle clips and the favored red and tacky I found that I did not adjust my stops properly. According to the factory prints the windows should be 1/4 inch above the belt line weather strip at the high point of the window when the down stops are properly adjusted. if I stop my windows at the right point they don’t rattle. kcmash
  4. So mine is a tilt column. The shaft from the steering has a flat milled on one side which keys to the rag joint. Only one way to align it. i did not realize at the time that there is a clocking scribe in the 2 spoke steering wheel, so I eyeballed it during assembly. Since the car had not been running yet I did not realize I was off when the car is moving. Does that make semse? kcmash
  5. Geoff, I am trying to follow you. The input shaft is keyed to the rag joint, the rag joint keyed to the input on the box. I an not happy with the way the steering column shaft does not go further into the rag joint, but it is in about 1/2 inch. So if my steering wheel is off, no biggie, correct. I do need to adjust it by about 10 degrees anyway. I appreciate the suggestions on the unloaded bleeding. kcmash
  6. Ok I need some more help. Power steering box is back in, and new high pressure hose installed. I filled the system by adding fluid and cranking, then repeating. Once the fluid level was stable I pushed the car outside and started it. I then began slowly turning side to side . Right was better than left. Some groaning and not so well assisted steering. I shut it off and found it was pushing fluid out the fill tube. I removed the dipstick to check level and there was foamy/bubbly fluid near the top of the tube. I started it again and tried cycling left to right figuring it needed to push more excess fluid out, but the assist was getting worse and feeling tighter. So then I thought I must be letting air get sucked in through the fill tube making it worse. I replaced the dipstick and tried starting and cycling the steering again with intermittent assist and some really tough spots. So I shut it down to look for advice. 1) When installing the steering box, the mechanism did get turned some from left to right as I connected the rag joint and drag link. 2) I am unsure if the bleeding procedure I used is correct. I saw one from Dorman with the rebuilt pump that said to disconnect the return hose when adding fluid until clear, bubble free fluid came out. I did find a small amount of fluid pooled around the return hose at the box connection, so that could be an air intake source. Finally, I thought, gee, did I maybe get the hoses switched at the box and sending high pressure in the low side. I checked all the restoration guides that show the high pressure going in the port closer to the engine, which is how mine is connected. Any suggestions. kcmash
  7. Maybe 200 miles on it. It was still running and shifting last outing. i am getting real tired of this power steering crap. I can’t seem to get the damn thing bled and working for anything. kcmash
  8. Well today I got my new power steering hose in. So I crawled around and got that installed. While under the car I decided to check the tranny gear oil level. So I deserve aging idiot award. Apparently I never did put gear oil in after rebuilding. So I did discover why my tranny whined. I guess we will see if I rebuild this winter.
  9. Wow$300 for a repopulated. I guess I need to sell my NOS unit! kcmash
  10. I have multiple that need some work. PM me if interested. None of them are “paint and go” kcmash
  11. So I must give kudos to a couple vendors out there. 1) I worked with National Parts Depot on the hose. Provided photos, and talked about the concerns with the crimp. They checked inventory and found one they thought looked better than my crimp and are replacing at their cost. I sent them a few pics of my car, so you may see it in an upcoming catalogue ( yeah right 😉) 2) Marty at Power Steering.com told me they did find a retaining ring out of place that likely caused some of my erratic power assist conditions. The box will arrive back here tomorrow and he even refunded me some money for my trouble. I strongly recommend them for good customer service. Hopefully I can get the steering reassembled this weekend. kcmash
  12. We’re all the factory slots for 73 a 14 inch wheel, or did they come as 15s too. That set with the tires looks like a helluva deal! kcmash
  13. I suggest contacting West Coast Classic Cougars. They seem to have a lot of those creature comfort items. Also check the web or eBay for “71 Ford Power Steering Cooler” as I believe they were prevalent on vans, station wagons, etc through the 70’s. You are correct, rare on Mustangs, but I think a lot of bigger Fords had them. kcmash
  14. For the bottoms of front fenders and rear 1/4s I would say go buy a flat piece of the correct gage and patch that in. Unless your lower mount is bad on the front fenders, I would replace as little as needed. The rear 1/4, I got my patches from National Parts Depot I believe. Goodmark has a good reputation if you can find their metal. Talk to Don at Ohio Mustang Supply. He knows these cars and knows the replacement part quality. For the rockers, I would be curious to see the damage as they were constructed of galvanized metal from the factory. Chevys are known for bad rockers, 71 to 73 Mustangs are not. Any pictures of what needs to be fixed? kcmash
  15. I have not heard of much success on reproduction fastback platforms. I used a donor but saved my original since they didn’t have much reproduction metal for ours at the time I needed it. I suggest you reach out to Ohio Mustang Supply to see if he can help you locate a correct reproduction, or Motor City Mustang to see if he has a spare. Also, this is a great place to practice your fabrication skills. Use your old one and add metal to replace the rot. Even if your welds are sloppy or your grinding not clean it will not be visible when the car is finished. But be sure the job is solid structurally, since your seats are bolted to it. kcmash
  16. I got mine from Empire covers. Nice fit and nice soft felt inside. Only wish they would have put an antennae grommet in. Of course I can make sure it’s in the correct place now.
  17. I will be surprised if they do too. But is was under warranty and they were willing to give it another look over and tear i5 down if needed. Stinks since the weather here today is sunny and 70, perfect for driving it. I am going to look at the hose and study engineering guidelines for crimp standards for 1500 psi hydraulic hoses. I noticed the crimp pattern on the blown hose has no annular features, only longitudinal creases, where the Edelman short hose I have has both types of crimp. The gold chromate is the failed crimp and the grey is the Edelman hose. kcmash
  18. Stanglover, do you know what the adjustment plug does in the exploded view you provided? Bentworker, thanks for the view on the pump relief valve. I did not see any way to service that in the service manual I posted. Everything I saw was for low pressure, making me think that valve is a simple spring control that should never go high. The pump I put in is a Dorman through Rock Auto. I assume the Dorman stuff has been pressure tested. What do you guys suggest? Get a pump kit and reseal my original? kcmash
  19. So I downloaded the Ford Thompson power steering pump manual and looked through it. The only situations they define for pump pressure are “insufficient pressure”. Which can be caused by wear, contamination, or clogged ports. There are no conditions for high pump pressure. my thoughts right now are: 1) Defective crimp on the power steering hose. 2) Clogged relief valve in the steering box 3) alignment not correct for radial tires. Pump manual: https://www.fordification.com/tech/PDF/FordPSpump-diagnosis.pdf kcmash
  20. My opinion. With all the replacement parts available now, non rare vin cars are not worth much. Considering the great supporters and vendors on this site, it would be hard to justify a parts car in a subdivision setting. it used to be that the parts cars were worth the selling price of the prices plus you4 labor to dismantle and inventory. Now with nearly everything being reproduced, unless people are matching date codes on a high end car, the parts are hardly worth refinishing. items like weatherstrip channels, consoles, 71/72 urethane front bumpers, rear defogger, tilt steering, tach harnesses, and power brake 4 speed pedal boxes, I am not sure that there is much else you can’t buy new. Power window bezel clips are rare, but mostly broken anyway. Rear roll down or power window tracks are good too, but you can get those shipped to you for 100 bucks from people who part cars out for a living. As far as assembly references, between this site and the 429Mustang Couga megasite, you should be able to find all the correct information you need to put it together correctly. better to grab the parts you need and leave the parts cars to someone else. So for the cars you listed. I would say 50 to $200 max. Otherwise you will regret it. Free opinions by kcmash
  21. Wow, I thought I replied to this. For the pump, I am unsure what to do. I have watched some videos on how to rebuild the pump, but saw nothing to adjust, no relief valve, etc. So aside from tearing it down and hoping I can re-assemble properly I am unsure what value I would add. I still have my original pump, I guess I could put a new seal kit in that. I replaced it because it seemed weak after restoration. I actually had the power assist coming and going in and out. I am shocked that this is so complex to dial in. I know Ford had to meet safety standards, so these should be able to come together and work. Do you have a link to any good articles or videos on the pump that I should look into? kcmash
  22. This is used to help hold the shoulder harness up out of the way when stored.
  23. Thanks for the alignment numbers Stanglover. Today I pulled the PS box back out and sent it off to Power Steering .com to have it looked over again. Hopefully that will be a quick turnaround. I also called National Parts depot where I bought the High Pressure Hose from that failed. I let them know that I felt these were not up to quality standards. They will get the case on the managements desk on Monday. I also ordered new bushings for the equalizer bar as that has some play in it that may be giving me some problems.
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