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Everything posted by kcmash

  1. Don't forget the shoulder harness holders that go into the interior headliner rail on each side. I had to take mine back down as I forgot to put them in the first time. kcmash
  2. Not sure. I have some used Ford I am willing to sell, but they are in Kansas City. kcmash
  3. Well, I dont have alignment numbers, I did a string and protractor alignment during restoration, took it to a shop and they said the numbers looked good and they wodnt change a thing. I was only at the stop for a second before she locked up. Is there a way to check the rotation valve? Kcmash
  4. JPAZ, Good reminder. I think it was your post I was thinking of. I have a new Pittman arm along with all other components on mine, so I eliminated that one. I do have another pressure hose without the long service loop new in the garage. I may try that with another system bleed and see what happens. kcmash
  5. I started a new thread on this. We need to understand what went wrong with mine so others don't have this problem. I don't understand why using original components i am getting a failure like this. kcmash
  6. OK, it's time to go deep in the power steering as I came close to losing my car yesterday. What I have: Rebuilt Ford power steering pump from Dorman, and a rebuilt variable ratio power steering box from Power Steering.com When I put this together I have had a little "float" to my steering at center. It takes a lot of wheel jockeying to keep it in the center of the lane. It actually had a few times that it felt like it wants to power to the left when I start right. (just for a microsecond or so). I also had some slight groaning in the pump. Since I got the carb tuned yesterday and was having better luck with idle I decided to try a closer look at the Power Steering issue. Upon return from a drive, the car was warm and I attempted to go stop to stop on the steering. I went all the way to the right and attempted to turn left, but it was super tight. I saw my engine idle had dropped so i I gave it a little throttle to help the pump then "POW" the high pressure hose blew out of the ferrule clamp down at the steering box. PS fluid all over that ignited on the hot exhaust. Me realizing I don't know how to get that fire out,(Its a long way down there in our engine bays). Luckily it was the fluid burning on the manifold, and the fire did not seem to damage much else. ( I had to use water to put the fire out) So I can put another power steering hose on and clean the engine bay, but I want to know what the hell is going on. I have heard of others blowing a power steering hose on this forum. This has never been a problem in the 40 years I have owned the car. 1) Marty at power steering. com thought I may have too high of pump pressure when I told him of the center floating issue. My question, how did Ford make sure no Mustangs had high pressure with these pumps? 2) Does it sound like I have a steering box issue? I am glad this happened inn the driveway, but I just need this to work and not be a risk. Thanks goodness this didn't happen at a cruise night! 3) What do you suggest I do? I am perplexed! Is there a way to dial down pump pressure? Are these reproduction High pressure lines with the shock tower loop poor quality? Did I simply have an air bubble in the system that caused the problem?(Not likely with the couple hundred miles I have on it.) Thanks for the input. kcmash
  7. Tried turning stop to stop, blew my high pressure PS hose and caught the car on fire. Not what I planned. kcmash
  8. Engine is pretty insensitive to opening the metering jets. If I close any one too far it starts to slow down and stall. Now that the roads are dry I am going to go for another run. I may need to set the curb idle a touch higher. She sits closer to 600 than 800. I prefer 8 to 9 hundred for curb idle. kcmash
  9. List is 86670, it is a 4150 body. No, I did not test the power valve. I did inspect it and it looked clean and moved easily, but I did not have the tools for a vacuum test. Sounds like they move to fairly light vacuum level. I was going to go for a drive this morning, but the rains came into town, kcmash
  10. OK I did a lot of work today and made a LOT of progress. 1) Pulled the carb to find a failed gasket underneath, Proceeded to tear down the carb and clean it good anyway. 2) Put a new Holley gasket underneath and a new fuel filter in. 3) Started it up to backfiring and a lot of stumbling. 4) Re-set timing an d Idle. My timing was about 10 degrees off. Dialed that in and it really cleaned up a lot of the problems with idling, acceleration, power, everything. 5) Tried to dial the carb back in with a vacuum gage and had little response from it. Vacuum is around 10 PSI. So now it smells pretty rich. I tried dialing it in a little more before dark, and could not get the rich smell out of the air. Does that mean I have the carb jetted wrong? It has 63s in the front metering block and 73s in the rear. Does that sound correct? What should I be at for a Cleveland? I can't believe how much more drive able it is with the timing issue fixed. kcmash
  11. I used TMI. Black and grey comfortweave Mach 1 seats. I like it. kcmash
  12. For those of you who don't know me, here is the back ground 351C -4V Quench heads, Ford Motorsport flat tappet cam, Holley 670 Ultra vacuum secondaries. Less than 500 miles on engine and restoration. About a month ago I had the car dialed in nicely. Nice Idle and it was drive able enough for local commute, felt good on the highway and was fine at stops. I was running BP ultimate gas in it. It seems that the trigger event was when I had to put Phillips 66 premium(with ethanol) in it. It has not been able to idle since. I finally ran all of that gas out along with B12 Chemtool fuel system cleaner. I pulled the idle mixture screws out and cleaned them along with blasting B12 through the idle holes. Today I tried rolling the car out to re-adjust the idle mix screws with a vacuum gage, but I still could not get it to idle. It seemed like every time I would get the idle down to about 1200, it would load up and die. I took it for a drive and it did OK at speed. (Its a 4 speed. I notice a stumble around the 2000-2300 RPM range when accelerating in second and third) I am running the Quick Trip Red Handle Ethanol free premium now. I am not a carburetor expert, so i need some help. 1)Do I need to completely tear the carb down and clean it up real good? 2) Is this condition indicative of a bad power valve? 3) The hesitation or stumbling at 2000-2300 has been evident for a little while. Not sure what that could be. Thanks for the help! kcmash
  13. If you were to do a spoiler I would suggest the one from the 1970 Cougar Eliminator. With the coupe body lines I think that would be the correct elevation. kcmash
  14. Some Items just don't show up in a lot of searches. Glad I could help! kcmash
  15. I bought reproduction ones for the same reason. I think they are called Mach 1 Seat Medallions or something. Scott Drake Seat Button With Retainer And Clips Mustang Mach 1 1971-1973 Scott Drake: D1ZZ-6564824-K kcmash
  16. The ones I have all appear to have been the black dip paint. Not sure what it is called but that standard black that usually has sags in it. I repainted mine with a semi gloss black. kcmash
  17. I have! Mine looked terrible too. I ordered the reproduction ones and found they were painted in a cheap paint. So I got some of the black tool handle dip coating stuff, thinned it and dipped them for an original look. You must drill out the rivets and use new ones. The clips are actually called "Blow out Clips" and they are designed to keep the windows from popping out under certain pressure situations. What help do you need? kcmash
  18. What refrigerant are you using? It is pretty easy to do any of the refrigerants, so even moderate skills can get the job done safely. If you can pump the vacuum down to -31 inHG and it holds on its own for 30 minutes or so you are probably sealed well. The only cautions are DO NOT over fill, and DO NOT charge through the high pressure port. kcmash
  19. Ok here is what I have. FOMOCO C5AE 6380 E
  20. Is he looking for a Ford Flywheel? why not go aftermarket and get a new one? I may have one in the garage as i had a NOS one for my car. kcmash
  21. kcmash

    Bad Gas

    Chuck, Thanks for the reply. What do you mean by the idle air bleeds? Is that where I take the idle mixture screws out and clean those ports? Or are you talking about a full removal and bench top dismantle and cleaning. I guess I need to burn through the other Half tank of gas on the highway so I get that crap out of the way. Are there any recommended fuel system cleaners that will help with this? Sea Foam, Gum Out, etc. I figure those might help, but I do NOT want to erode the aluminum carburetor. Let me know. I want to work on the driving stuff again, not this type of crap! kcmash
  22. kcmash

    Bad Gas

    I believe I got some bad gas, need some opinions/advice. The car was running pretty nice with the Holley 670 Ultra on it. Yes I thought the Fast Idle held on a little too long, but after about 10 minutes it kicks out and had a great idle.around 900 RPM. Last Saturday I ran some errands and went to get some gas at BP like usual. The card machine was not working on multiple pumps so I got fed up and left. Went to Phillips 66 and filled with their premium, then went home. Later that evening I took the car to a cruise night. The Fast Idle did not engage and my 7 minute stop and go drive to the cruise night resulted in a lot of fanning the throttle at stops to keep it running. When I drove it home, it was a real challenge and it would not idle at all. I checked for any signs of a vacuum leak, the added Octane boost to the tank. A couple days later I decided to try her again. 44 miles later, it still won't idle and had some hesitation at some transitions on the highway. Is there a way to back the metering jets out and clean the idle circuit while the carb is on the car? What else do you suggest? kcmash
  23. Today I did nothing to the car, Yesterday I installed the dome lamp and cover then wen out to burn off some bad gas. She was doing great, both fast idle and warm idle. Warm idle was perfect, and reliable. Ne tank of gas from Phillips 66 and she wont idle at all. A real challenge and a lot of clutch at every stop. So I did what any 7173 owner in their right mind would do. Picked up a neighbor who likes cars and I hit the highway! According to the Life 360 App on the phone, I went 44 Miles with a top speed of 83 MPH. 1/2 a tank to go! kcmash
  24. Be Careful with your dis assembly! If that is a true 429 4 speed car, you have a high end VIN. I noticed a lot of comments you made about "I've got new metal, so I'll just replace it" If you have the original sheetmetal with proper date codes, you can only keep value to the car. Watch the seat risers too. Not sure if they are reproducing the fastback seat risers yet or not. kcmash
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