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kcmash

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Everything posted by kcmash

  1. Shot some freon in the AC tonight. Not quite a full charge, but she blew cold. The Blower fan showed its failure and squealed like a stuck pig when moving the cold air. Is there any way to replace lube on the blower while in the car? I think I have a spare fan, should I just buy a new blower and bolt it in? It's definitely a different car with the windows up and the cold ac blowing kcmash
  2. You're really cutting the holes in an NOS Hood? I would sell the NOS and buy a reproduction to put the holes in. But that is just me.... kcmash
  3. Not a paint and body expert here, but here are some questions. First, are you talking about the front bumper or the chin spoiler? The Chin Spoiler is a plastic material like ABS or something that handles plastic paints better. The front bumper is a urethane molded assembly that I believe only needs a flex agent added to the paint used on the body. Second, if you really want paint to permanently stick to a surface, make sure it is done in over spray and you were not intending for the paint to go there. Seriously, ever notice how if you try to paint a piece of plastic the correct color it peels, cracks, fish eyes, runs, etc. But if you didn't remove every different color piece from the body before painting, even the best lacquer thinner cannot clean the overspray off. kcmash
  4. Long day of work today so i don't know that I will get anywhere, but I appreciate the input here. Please remember that this noise first showed up after 45 minutes of neighborhood driving and shifting a lot. No grinding or problems with the frequent shifts. I have not adjusted free play on the clutch, I need to read up on that. Another detail about the car is ever since I have got it to move under its own power it has had an odd jump or jolt when first letting the clutch out. It is really tough to describe, but I have always wondered if the tranny is shifting in its mount. A final oddity to this is how smooth it was running and shifting before this sound appeared, which makes me wonder about it being the starter or something there. Yep second gear has been a whiner, but other than that it has been a solid and smooth running tranny. I will start with the torque wrench as Don suggested. Keep the thinking cap on and lets pray that the key position was the culprit.. kcmash
  5. I have the number of a guy who rebuilds the tilt columns here in the Kansas City Area. I got his contact number from West Coast Classic Cougars. kcmash
  6. Need a little help here. Tonight when cruising around for about 45 minutes I started to notice a metallic grinding or chinging sound. What I know. It sounded like it was coming from the gear box or clutch area, I could feel slight vibration in the shifter handle that coincided with the noise. And the sound was random. My first thoughts were some kind of gearbox failure, like the reverse detent was not keeping the reverse fully disengaged. Second, I thought maybe I was having the speedo gear and cable come apart, but the speedometer was working fine and the needle was smooth. I nervously made my way home thinking something in the gearbox was going to grab and lock the tranny up. It seemed a little more prominent when I shifted into 3rd. Just before arriving home I was thinking, "I wonder if the starter bendix is trying to engage", so i double checked the ignition position with the key as I was driving. I noticed the key was part way between start and run.(The spring return doesn't always kick the key back to run easily on my tilt column.) After that, I did not notice the sound in the last couple blocks. So here is the deal. I had pulled the car out to make sure the AC clutch was engaging so I can charge the AC system. It was cool outside and a sunny clear evening, so I decided to go for a little drive. I drove past several friends houses and through several neighborhoods with no problems. Good idle at stops, smooth shifting, it felt great and sounded great. I went to a 2 lane blacktop known as Pink Hill Road and decided to run this 45 MPH stretch for a few miles to get out of all the shifting. That's when the noise of concern started, when I was about 3 miles into that run. What do you think? Could the starter have had a little contact and try to kick in after the car was good and warm? It's one of the new PMGR type Starters with the battery power to the starter and the smaller relay wire to kick it over. Any other ideas? Ford NOS Flywheel Centerforce 2 Clutch and pressure plate with a new throwout bearing 4-Speed was rebuilt by me with a kit from Toploader Haven Origninal Hurst shifter. Any Ideas? kcmash
  7. I used Greyhound Express many years ago. Same thing. Large and heavy items in the belly of a bus. kcmash
  8. You have some mis information there. 1) As far as where to buy the parts from, a lot of people here will tell you OMS as they are good site supporters. I have no experience there as I have original Ford Parts for mine 2) With regards to 2 barrel versus 4 barrel, there is no difference when using a stock intake setup or a non high rise intake. So to support this, it is a fact that a factory Ram -Air system from a Boss 351(4 Barrel) will drop right onto a 2 Barrel Cleveland. So the stories you have hear about a 4 Barrel needing a special setup, they must be referring to a high rise intake of some sort. There are different Air Cleaners for the 429 Ram Air cars versus the 351 Cars, other thatn that, they are all the same pieces. lcmash
  9. So on July 3 I drove the car on a few errands and it got progressively worse and loaded up some. She would not idle worth a crap. At the end of the day it was warm and actually idling in the drive, so I pulled the ai cleaner and adjusted the idle metering jets with a vacuum gage. It immediately idled better, but it was time to put her away for the day. Today, I uncovered her and just went for a drive. The fast idle didn't really catch at first, but after I started driving a little it kicked in. After about 5 minutes of driving, the fast idle kicked out an d she had a perfect idle. So every stoplight and stop sign was a matter of my clutch skills. Anyway, here is the cool part! I decided to take her up on the interstate for the first time! 70 MPH at 2000RPM in 4th and she rode real smooth! I Still want to add a little camber to it so it feels more stable, but I am thrilled with this maiden voyage on the highway! kcmash
  10. I have various sheet metal I need to move now that the project is nearly complete. Left and Right Doors. Left is very solid right is in need of some work 71/72 Front Fenders - - 1 Matched pair, have been dipped, need some dent removal bodywork near the headlight. - 1 Right side fender with the headlamp box weldment removed. Clean piece of sheet metal. - Original plain rear valance(no exhaust cutouts) . Lower retaining tabs missing. Straight solid piece otherwise. All parts located in the Kansas City area. Not sure how to ship the doors or Fenders, but they need a new home. kcmash
  11. Great points all through this post. Something else to consider is the dishonesty in the business. Over the years as the "Rare" cars increase in value, some dealers out there take big shortcuts to make big money. Here is what I mean. If you were to find a "numbers matching" Boss 351 for a "Numbers matching" price, you have a nice, rare complete car, Correct? Well, who checked to make sure the numbers matched? 1) Did anyone verify that the original date coded crankshaft and rods are in the engine? 2) Have the pistons been replaced or upgraded? Block bored? 3) Is the VIN on the block what Ford did? Or did someone buy a "close enough" cleveland block and stamp the VIN numbers on the block? 4) Is it the correct 4-Speed with the correct tag? Who verified before you sent your money? Same wit the rear end? Did someone keep the tag on the differential, or just make a tag and put in on a non-boss rear axel. I ask all these questions because I know for a fact that no one dismantles the car before they buy it to verify all that stuff. A few years back a Nationally know restorer of high end Shelbys was caught up in law suits for switching out original CSxxxx part number seals and components for non-Shelby parts. I am not sure what made the victim check those parts, but they had been swapped. What about the OE Lemans rods used in the old 428's. When people buy these old high end number matching Shelbys, does that pretty little big block under the hood have Lemans components or station wagon parts? Just food for thought. kcmash
  12. Hello.  Is the server down?  I suddenly cannot add photos or even send you a message.

    kcmash

    1. RocketFoot

      RocketFoot

      Every thing seems ok??

  13. So today I braved the door excursions. 1) Drivers door, added the anti-rattle clips to the lower track guide. Tested the motion, put the panel back on, realized my lower stop should be about 1/4 inch higher. Won't take it off again for a while. Installed the master bezel for the power windows. 2) Opened the passengers door and found the internal door actuator was worn pretty bad. Put in my spare good one and it works like brand new. 3) So then I decide to figure out the passengers side bezel clips. I cannot figure out what is supposed to retain the clips. They make no sense to me. So I tried a Velcro remedy, Pics of the whole mess below as soon as I get them off my phone. Drove it around the block. kcmash
  14. Sorry I have no pics for this one, but I finally took my car for a nice little drive. Carb is adjusted pretty well, Power steering replaced, It starts and drives pretty nice now. Next up: 1) Hassle MO DMV to get my friggin plates! 2) Find and install anti-rattle clips in the drivers window mechanism. 3) Figure out why the inside latch on the passenger door is not opening the door consistently Drive it, Drive it, Drive it! kcmash
  15. Hmmm I assume you are looking for opinions here, So I will give you mine. 1) Stay with red. A red convertible is always worth more, especially when that is he original color. Fresh paint always looks better than the old stuff, so it will wake up nicely with the original color. 2) My second choice is a bright yellow. Bright yellow with balck accents is the Holy Grail in my book. 3) I have a grabber Blue Mach 1. Love the color, but have never liked the looks of it on a convertible or coup. Not sure why, but it does not appeal to me. kcmash
  16. OK, I need a little more help with the carburetor problem as time is of a premium. As I stated before I tried to make sure the throttle plates on the carb were not dragging on the intake. I used 2 carb gaskets and stacked them for extra height. The car will start right up with a prime, but requires fanning of the throttle to keep it going. I really feel like I created a vacuum leak last time the carb was lifted for adjustment. Since I really want to make this thing drive able and stop taking the carb off over and over, I want to know the following. 1) Should I go with a 1 piece gasket to avoid vacuum leaks, or is stacking 2 paper gaskets no big deal? 2) If I do go buy another thicker gasket, what is the max height I should go with a 351/ Ram Air car to not put undue stress on the hood plate and ram air seal? Thanks, kcmash
  17. Yep, I got one! PM me and let's find a fair price. Also have an FE bell housing. Kcmash
  18. I have not done this upgrade myself yet, but others have, 1) Yes, there is a rigid vapor return line that runs from the firewall down the tunnell to to top of the tank. 2) The top of the tank also has a bung ring type fitting that I thought I had heard that the existing tank hole can take a drop in electric fuel pump that will work with the EFI systems. Here you go! kcmash
  19. How much play is allowed in the ball joint on the PItman Arm? kcmash
  20. Ok I learned this the hard way with my project. In 72 the D2AR casting case got a boss and a switch for seatbelt warning lamps. Anyway, this boss on the tranny case will not allow the 3/4 rod to clear for 3rd gear. Thus the revision to the 72 shift rod. I found my solution through Bill the Hurst Shifter guru. I can now hit 3rd gear. Yes my car was not an original 4 speed , when collecting parts over the years I built up the D2AR case sin e it was the best I had . Didn't realize that the 70-71 Hurst shifter was a mismatch until test drive. Kcmash
  21. Sorry, I will never use Pertronix again after wasting almost a year on their last great product. I wen back to points because they work, cant say that for the Pertroninx I bought. kcmash
  22. My NOS equalizer an brackets are silver in color. So either Cadmium or Zinc. kcmash
  23. I have at least 3 spare York AC compressors I will sell cheap. Yes I have clutch assemblies too. Contact me. I think some of them have 73 date coded tags on them. kcmash
  24. Curious question. Is the Ram Air Filter element thicker than a stock air cleaner element? I ask because with a standard element in the air cleaner I run out of threads on the center bolt before the wing nut reaches the lid. Yes I bought the "correct" bolt and wingnut from a Mustang vendor. Any thoughts? kcmash
  25. Ok steering box is out. The 4 lb. engineers hammer finally got the drag link off the Pittman. I believe the box is a variable based on the tag being SPA V.. Now the big question is whether to have it converted to quick turn ratio or leave the variable in it. What do you guys think?
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