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Everything posted by VegasFastback

  1. I honestly don't know. Just found it at the goodwill down the road. My radio isn't currently installed so I can't test it.
  2. Check out this gadget. It should make rides more fun
  3. When I step on the brakes the temp gauge tick up. When i turn on the headlights it does it worse. Doing both is enough to peg it. I'm assuming bad ground, but I don't know where to look.
  4. Hi Don I am looking for previous owners. After emailing the DMV and requesting previous owner names i was told that they could'nt give names because of data protection. So what exactly can i request? The link you posted has a form to fill out. Would i fill that out and send it off in the post with the fee or could the form be printed off, filled out, scanned into computer and be done online? When i try and find the OFFICIAL DMV website for Phoenix i keep getting dmv.org which according to their website "DMV.org is a privately owned website that is not owned or operated by any state government agency. Finding it impossible to find the rite site and "Public records access" page you posted for Nevada Try this one for arizona https://www.azdot.gov/mvd/
  5. Someone ought to do what one of the Mopar sites do: Publish a list of known faked/transferred VINs. -Kurt You need another project, don'tcha Kurt? rofl I think the Mach 1 looks great - cleaned up nice - but maybe not at that price, though. If mine would've been in that great of condition to start with, I might've considered offering up to $10K - IF it runs, has a clean title, and is numbers matching. Someone's removed the export braces, which usually stinks of engine swap. The extra wiring under the hood is suspect as well. Otherwise, looks pretty solid from here. It's totally an engine swap. The ad says there's a 429 in it and it's a 72
  6. So here's the thing. People come on here to get the opinions of others. I gave mine. Pastel Blue already decided to replace the part. Great, our opinions inform they don't decide. But you have gotten on your soapbox twice now to shout me down, and that is uncalled for. So, since you've called me out twice now I will explain my position. That hole he's got in his timing cover is common in many 385 series engines. If you were to look at it in your hands you would see that corroded from the inside out. Also on the back side of the cover you will see that the hole is completely surrounded by metal. If you look at the block you will see a matching void in it. It's just a recess, nothing is there and a gasket completely seals it. I know these things because I have these things sitting in my garage right now as well as it being a fairly common topic at 460ford.com. Now the reason I would use this on a restore is because of its engineering code. The cover is an external part and can easily be checked to see it is ford made or not. As such even if I personally wanted to replace it in this instance, it would be with a ford made period correct cover, which would most likely cost more than the one you found on jegs. It would also have a high chance of being thin in the exact same spot, because like I said it's a common occurrence. Keep in mind i don't think the part is actually broke. On 460s you can run water pumps without a backplate on it, but it causes cavitation, and In this instance water would go in the hole. Again this would cause zero damage to the engine because it doesn't go anywhere and is sealed by gasket. But that point is moot. Nearly everyone runs a backplate so no water will be in that area at all meaning there will be two walls between the water and the inside of the engine.
  7. He needs a new timing cover . That damage is from corrosion from water that came from somewhere . Rebuilding an engine is an expensive process and takes a lot of time, and to cheap out and not spend $41.00 to $78.00 for a new one when the current one has a hole the size of the grand canyon is not prudent . This is also for a car that might be worth around $80,000.00 fully restored so I see no point in trying to cut corners just to save a couple dollars on a critical part. NEW TIMING COVER $41.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-429-7-0L-460-7-5L-TIMING-COVER-KIT-69-97-/170501161887?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 $78.00 http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/50301/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710565196&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-194567929031:pla-207804007511&gclid=CK3TzZmj_c0CFQNufgodeV4DGA . Not an issue, it WILL be replaced... I understand why you might not think it needs replacing, but reinstalling it and you would be down to the last line of defense (outer housing) by reusing the original piece. Not willing to take that chance... this is the time to change a cover like this. Cheers. Ok. You don't have to use parts you're not comfortable with. Just thought I would speak up so you know not everyone is in consensus that the part is bad.
  8. Yes, agreed, new cover necessary. Good thought on the different rods causing the extensive overall engine wear. I disagree on the needing a new timing cover. Where the hole is there is just a void behind it so no water will go in the block. Also if your water pump has a back plate water wont be in that part of the timing cover to begin with.
  9. I got my mustang sorted and a took it around the block. First time its driven in three years.
  10. I second checking for vacuums leaks. 90% of the time that my cars are running like crap its a vacuum leak.
  11. My 302 still has the stock single exhaust. At the point where the pipes converge into one the junction leaks. I can tell because there is smoke coming out there(crud burning off from the car sitting 3 yrs) Is there a trick to sealing this? Or do I just tighten the u-bolt some more?
  12. So, on the quest to get my car running I set out to get a replacement fuel pump. I usually have an old ford of some sort so this is common buy for me. Today however I found out that these thing are in short supply. The guy at Advance Auto Parts (formerly Carquest) couldn't even pull it up on his computer. Is anyone else having trouble finding such a common item?
  13. It looks sweet, but I have to say I hate engine covers, even ones as nice as his.
  14. So, on Tuesday I went back with a car dolly in a hail mary attempt to save the mustang. I got about halfway across the "driveway" before the trailer got stuck. I had to unhitch in order to get my truck out, just leaving the mustang in the muck. I was pretty defeated at the end of the night. Wednesday I call a tow truck and luckily my daughter gets out of school an hour early then, which allowed my wife to meet the tow company there. They winched the mustang and car dolly out together hitched them back up and now the mustang is safely home. I glad to have it back. It was torture knowing something had gotten off the property but my car was still stuck there. Thank you for listening.
  15. That's good to know. I think my uncle still lives in London, it might be Kitchner now though.
  16. We're currently trying to to do just that. It might work out. I'll be moving to Ingersoll. My folks already moved there about 2 years ago with my brother. They have an old ranch house there that was separated out for three families at one point.
  17. I know I don't post very often, but you guys are the only ones I can share this with. In Jan of 2013 I moved from Henderson, NV to Glide, OR. My mustang sorta ran before going up but was taken out of commission by a tranny problem shortly after arriving, and I didn't have the money to fix it. It took a year and a half for me to get a license to work in my trade(electrician). My poor mustang just sat that whole time. Dec of 2014 I finally got a good paying job in my trade and started making money. We were catching up on bills and in no time I would be able to start putting my attention on getting the mustang running again. Then came the rain. The property we moved to is on a mountain and the neighbor above me has a road that continually washes out. Just before the rain he did a huge amount of work and turned the road into a monstrosity. When the rain came it brought a landslide underneath his road and down to my driveway destroying it. We managed to fix it and move ourselves and 90% of our things out before the landslide crushed it again, but the mustang wasn't one of them. It is still trapped on the other side of the slide. Up until today, the complete inability to get it out has kept me from thinking about the car and how I might lose it, but today when my wife visited the property we found out that the shed my brother-in-law was doing rent to own on had been repossessed. The company did a hack job moving some dirt to create a ramp down and back out of the ditch the driveway used to cross. This event has caused me quite a stir because now it might actually be possible to get the car. However, even if that is so, it is now too late. We will be moving to Ontario Canada in June, so I would be risking my neck to get the car only to have to sell it before the move in June. I just, this sucks. I have sacrificed so many times to try to keep this car and now, no matter what it's gone. I'm really at a loss.
  18. Just a "friendly" discussion I am having with my mechanic. He calls it a big block. mike I've heard it called a midblock. I generally consider it the 460's little brother, since they were both designed about the same time.
  19. Finally got my hands on some heads, D0VE-C's. I think the previous owner converted them to adjustable screw in stud which will help because i want a roller setup. The mad porter's site is already a great reference and I haven't even subscribed yet. http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Flow-comparison-figures-walt-n-nutter-index-1.html This chart alone is a boon for the next step of picking a cam. I'm planning for a CR of 10.1 for 91 octane.
  20. So carcraft did a buildup of a 570hp cleveland. Thing is after reading the article I see no point in investing in trick flow heads. The stock heads were open chamber 2v heads and the engine produced about 500hp with them. They had less CR and the cam was sized for the twisted wedge heads. When the worst heads you can have on a cleveland are 70hp shy of the $2,000 aftermarkets they're not worth the money. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1505-build-a-570hp-351-cleveland/
  21. So of the two 460 blocks I have, it turns out that the one I thought was junk is the better of them. Its a D0VE-A with boss bulkheads. I'm totally going to four bolt main it.
  22. I thought the tunnel port small block was a 302. Ford scrapped it the tunnel port heads after 1 race season and used the Cleveland heads which was still under development for the pantera. Ironically the Boss heads flow better than the tunnel ports did despite the fact that the ports look smaller.
  23. I asked about porting because of the poor flow of the exhaust ports. TommyK's link was what I needed. The reason I haven't set a hard goal is because it's dependent on the parts available to me. I will say once I have the heads pick out I will have a clearer vision of where this build is going to go. I still have to build a variable flow bench and buy a carbine for porting the heads. I'm also going to get a subscription to reincarnate because he is the only guy in the internet that I can find with cutaways of 460 heads.
  24. What kind of carburetor is on this thing? If it's a 2 barrel I'd swap the intake and carb to 4 barrel. You can find 302 intakes at junkyards on trucks pretty easily and just the fact that the primaries on a 4 barrel are smaller than the venturies on a 2 barrel will add a little low end. Plus it will flow more overall adding some to the top.
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