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blkulis

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Everything posted by blkulis

  1. I am putting the 72 car back together now. I installed an edelbrock carb with electronic choke. It has a red and black wire from the carb. Many of you have said that I can use the red/yellow short plug in to feed to the electronic choke. Can I use a plug in to go from the red and black to the red/yellow strip short plug in? If so, where do red and black go? Or should I run the black wire to a ground and red to the Red/yellow connection? Also, would you know where to get the plug in connector??
  2. The below comments are from a year ago. (see picture below) I am putting the car back together now. I installed an edelbrock carb with electronic choke. It has a red and black wire from the carb. Can I run the red and black wire to the Red/Yellow connection on the engine harness??? Would that make the ground, or should I run the black wire to a ground and red to the Red/yellow connection? Also, would you have the connector that I need or suggest where to buy one?? 1-4 are correct. Assuming it is the original gauge feed harness, 5 is likely to power throttle idle speed solenoid on the carb. It was a running change during the 72 model year. Best guess is the change occurred January-March 1972. Perhaps Midlife has more information on the subject. Chuck There's not a lot of documentation available on this, and I don't have the level of knowledge that I would like on these gauge harnesses. It took me 2 years to find someone that knew what the throttle solenoid sensor was all about.:blush: Red/Yellow is the throttle position sensor line (and is a great pickup point for an electric choke). Black/yellow is for the A/C clutch. You got the three other lines correct.
  3. I am getting ready to re-install my battery cables and starter cable. I need help with the correct way to route these cables. Also, where does the tab on the negative cable connect to??? If the original path of the cables had any brackets or s-clips, I am missing those too. (Where would I buy those if need be??).
  4. I have one last yellow alternator wire that I need help with. My Mustang lost (or should I say my sister lost) almost every original part over the years. (could also be blamed on my drunken college days in Dallas!!!!) In the alternator picture, the yellow wire plugs to a silver object that looks like a condensor or something. What is that thing called and where can I buy it???? I have seen photo's where this is attached below the voltage regulator. (picture courtesy of 429 Mustang site).
  5. We are having trouble remembering where everything goes. Does anyone have a good schematic of where the pulleys and brackets go for alternator, power steering etc. My 1972-302.
  6. One more mystery plug on firewall, it has 2 wires, red/brown with orange dot. Where does this go.
  7. This wiring comes out of the firewall driver's side, it is more than 5 feet long. I would assume it goes all the way to the starter solenoid???? What are the hard rubber squares (fusible links???) what is the thing at the end, does that go to the voltage regulator???? Also, where does that plug-in go to???? Sorry, I am not a electrician by trade!
  8. I am cleaning my power steering hoses, they are wrapped in a black foam insulation. I cannot reuse it, it is disintegrating. Can you buy the oem stuff to replace it or can you buy it at Home Depot/Lowes or at a hardware store????
  9. On the block towards the firewall/Driver's side of the engine is a mystery sensor or something (to the right of the freeze plug). I don't think any wires ever went to it, but they could be missing. What is this???? Sorry about the out of focus photo (piece of junk Droid phone on it's last leg!)
  10. My engine block number and letters in my 1972 Convertible are D4DE-6015-BA. All indications are that this is from a 1974 Falcon. I didn't think they made Falcon's in The USA in 74???? By coincidence, I call myself the Road Warrior because I love the movies and that they used Falcons and Holdens in Mad Max and The Road Warrior. Did someone drop a foreign motor in my Stang at one time??? Any ideas???? We have owned the car since 81'..
  11. Oh so close in finishing the old 302 and dropping it in. I really don't want to spend the price, $235 or so on a Autolite replica battery. Any comments on a good battery and size for the old 72??? Do you suggest a good trickle charger too???? The 72 will be a semi-daily driver next Spring or so.
  12. I have never installed freeze plugs. I have the 302 out and just about finished rebuilding. No evidence that plugs were leaking, look good, but most people say to replace with brass just in case. Motorhead Father says leave the old ones in. Should they stay or should they go?? (1980's reference!!) Also, if I replace, do you recommend permatex sealer or install without sealer???
  13. I am repainting my stock 72 valve covers. I am having them sandblasted. Do I need to use a primer (high temp) or can I just shoot on the Ford Corporate blue from my rattle can????
  14. I am getting ready to paint my engine bay. I need to know where the factory seam sealer was applied in the engine bay and cowl area. I scraped off some hardened seam sealer in the cowl drip rail area, so that one is obvious. Any links or advice would be helpful.
  15. In a month, I will be ready to drop the 302 back in my 1972 "vertible". I need advice on headers and exhaust. I am replacing my rusted manifolds and stock dual exhaust system. I want to have a "throaty" sound but not too loud. I am on a mid-priced budget. Do you suggest headers and a new stock exhaust system with turbo mufflers? Or, my Old 1960's Motorhead Father In Law suggest headers and Smythies???? glass packs. He says a shop could make me the exhaust system from a pattern.
  16. Just pulled the 302. It was running great but it was leaking radiator fluid at the rear of the engine and dripping down above the bell housing. I thought that it was a bad freeze plug(s). With the engine out, freeze plugs don't show any evidence of leaking. Didn't look like any of the hoses were leaking from firewall. I cannot find any evidence of leaks from the motor. Any idea where it was coming from? Would you suggest new freeze plugs anyway??? I am going to replace all of the gaskets
  17. I need the drivers side, inner, "drop down bracket" that held the power top cylinder to the convertible frame. It looks like you have it in the pictures. What do you want for the whole top???
  18. I need the drivers side, inner, "drop down bracket" that held the power top cylinder to the convertible frame. It looks like you have it in the pictures.
  19. I will check it out. Engine pulled, ready to wire wheel and sand!
  20. I am trying to choose the best chassis rust paint. I have used KBS coatings in my trunk and gas tank to good results, Not sure the long term results with KBS. I see 3 frequently mentioned on the blogs. I would like your opinions on the best product to coat my chassis and then one to spray the engine bay with: 1. Rust Bullet 2. PoR 15 3. Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black
  21. thetwo cylinders???? Please see my pictures and post on "convertible parts missing. I need the "drop down" bracket and nuts and bolts etc...for the driver's side cylinder. I don't know what that part would be called. Brian Please see my pictures and post on "convertible parts missing. I need the "drop down" bracket and nuts and bolts etc...for the driver's side cylinder. I don't know what that part would be called. Brian
  22. A After Brake Cleaner, is it ready to paint?? No other prepping???? First a good degreasing with a pressure washer or high pressure hose end, purple power is a great degreaser let it dry, light sand or scotch brite then some wax and grease remover before painting use lots of clean rags it only takes time the more time the better it looks paint is your choice Rust-Oleum Spray Paint works well and lasts and is a good value. Use engine paint on the hot parts and I used high heat on the exhaust after a good cleaning First a good degreasing with a pressure washer or high pressure hose end, purple power is a great degreaser let it dry, light sand or scotch brite then some wax and grease remover before painting use lots of clean rags it only takes time the more time the better it looks paint is your choice Rust-Oleum Spray Paint works well and lasts and is a good value. Use engine paint on the hot parts and I used high heat on the exhaust after a good cleaning Did you do all of this with a rattle can or sprayer and compressor, look fantastic!!!! What did you use on the bell housing????
  23. Thank you for the info. Before I took the car over, The Stang was parked at my sisters house, in her driveway. I think someone needed the part and ripped it off. My sister left the top down for 3 years, it got rained and hailed on in Dallas!!! Now repairing years of neglect, getting there slowly...
  24. How did you apply the paint???? Getting ready to do my 1972 engine compartment this week.
  25. A After Brake Cleaner, is it ready to paint?? No other prepping???? First a good degreasing with a pressure washer or high pressure hose end, purple power is a great degreaser let it dry, light sand or scotch brite then some wax and grease remover before painting use lots of clean rags it only takes time the more time the better it looks paint is your choice Rust-Oleum Spray Paint works well and lasts and is a good value. Use engine paint on the hot parts and I used high heat on the exhaust after a good cleaning Did you do all of this with a rattle can or sprayer and compressor, look fantastic!!!!
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