Jump to content


VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by blkulis

  1. I am painting my 1972 engine, engine bay and components. I am getting a few conflicting reports (from friends) on the list below. I know this website will tell me correctly!!! Need your advice or maybe you know of a good link or list of the proper engine area detail paints. hood latch, hood hinges, shock mounts and hood latch mount (Dark gray or phosphate painted???) Water Pump and Power Steering Pump,
  2. A After Brake Cleaner, is it ready to paint?? No other prepping???? First a good degreasing with a pressure washer or high pressure hose end, purple power is a great degreaser let it dry, light sand or scotch brite then some wax and grease remover before painting use lots of clean rags it only takes time the more time the better it looks paint is your choice Rust-Oleum Spray Paint works well and lasts and is a good value. Use engine paint on the hot parts and I used high heat on the exhaust after a good cleaning Looks great, thanks for the advice!
  3. Awesome work, looks great! I can relate. The "honey do" lists seem to add up very quickly. My delay is my 1960's motor-head Father In Law. He worked as a Ford mechanic in the late 60's and early 70's, but is extremely lazy!! I have been trying to get him to help me rebuild my 1972 convertible 302 engine for a year now. He tore apart 1/3 of it last December and 1/3 last week but something always comes up (either a medical condition (he is a hyperchondriac), or some form of laziness). I am even giving him my 1999 Dodge truck in exchange. He is like a little kid!!!! I will have to take matters in my own hands and just get to it myself or find someone that can help me. Sick of seeing the old 72 sitting there. Good luck with your project. blkulis
  4. Yes, just looking to give the stock engine some "kick". I found the best prices with Summit Racing, do you suggest somewhere else???
  5. A After Brake Cleaner, is it ready to paint?? No other prepping????
  6. I have a stock 302-2V for my 72'.. I want to upgrade my stock carb and go with a higher flow intake without having to worry about clearance issues and having to install a hood scoop. Any suggestions?
  7. Yup I only mess with professionally done coatings now because of that reason. Even well prepped it always seems to flake off over time and looks as bad or worse than before. I have had really good luck with the ceramic thermal barrier coatings done professional. IE Nitroplate and others Thank you, will probably buy a new dual system, since I am replacing my stock mainifolds with new headers. By the way, where do you live in Virginia? We may be moving to the Radford area next year.
  8. Big help, thank you!!! Also, do you recommend a de-greaser for the engine bay and engine?? Any strategy on painting these???
  9. Cool, have a catalog. What engine bay black color is correct???? Thanks!
  10. Pulling engine and putting on a stand. I am replacing all the gaskets and rebuilding my 302 where necessary. Probably will pull all of the parts out to have uncluttered access to the engine bay. Pulling engine and putting on a stand. I am replacing all the gaskets and rebuilding my 302 where necessary. Probably will pull all of the parts out to have uncluttered access to the engine bay. Also, do you have any advice on painting the engine bay????
  11. 1972 Convertible. I am getting ready to repaint my 302-2V engine and the entire engine bay, radiator, hood hinges, power steering pump, charcoal canister etc, etc. I need advice on correct colors for the 1972 year, best rattle can brands to buy, best radiator paint etc...
  12. I am getting ready to pull my 302 engine out of my 72 convert. It has been sitting for 6 years, going to install new headers. Duals and mufflers are surface rusted but in good shape. Is it a stupid idea to rust blast them and repaint with high temp paint????
  13. Have a 72 Convertible, 302. It is all stock, original carb and everything. Engine runs great, does not seem to be any major issues, but freeze plugs are rusted and leaking. I am going to pull engine and replace all gaskets and seals. I want to "hop" up the engine a little bit. I don't want a quarter mile car, just a Classic with some pep! My old 1960's "motorhead" Father In Law suggests a hotter cam, new carb and intake, headers and new duals to replace my rusted ones. He also suggest a heavier duty oil pump. I already have replaced coil and points with The Petronix system. Replaced all belts and hoses and rewired. Want to rebuild the engine and repaint it and engine area. Any Suggestions on the above, what size cam and carb or brands that you like and what you would do to add some horsepower, would be appreciated.
  14. Thank you for the info, those look awesome on your car.
  15. Getting ready to buy 4 raised white letters for my 1972 Convert. I just have the stock 14 inch rims now. The tire dealers in Arkansas are awfully proud of their prices. I am looking at BF Goodrich Radial TA's or something similiar. I have looked at Tire Buyer and others, do you know a good online place to buy raised white's??????
  16. Thank you! Also, I am going to buy some tires for my car. Do you know what are the widest tires that I can run on the stock rims??
  17. Thank you for the info. I have 6 of the wheel covers in various conditions. I will have to take them apart and mix and match and order new medallions from Don, most of mine have cracked plastic. The ribbed portions of some of mine have worn thru to a shiny chrome appearance, that is why I was wondering about the original color. How do you paint the inset areas? It looks like you may have to tediously paint those areas with a small brush or something.
  18. I just have the standard rims with Sport wheel covers on my 1972. The rims look like they are painted black, was that the original color? I want to prime and repaint them and buy new center caps from Don for my Sport wheel covers.
  19. I have Mach 1 wheel covers on my 1972 Convertible. They need painting and polishing. Any advice on how to take them apart, clean and paint them? Do you know the correct paint and where to purchase?
  20. I have done it all except starter, alternator and ignition switch. Dumb question, where is the switch located???? I tried my original Solenoid and a new one, both stuck after about 30 seconds from when the car started, had to tap to disengage. Any suggestions on where to buy a good quality one?????
  21. After 5 years idle in the garage, the ole 302 kicked over today and sounds pretty darn good. The only problem is that I cannot turn the car off by the ignition switch. I try turning the switch off and taking out the key and it will not cut the power. We have to pull the coil to stop the engine. What's up?????
  22. Well then, thank God I've never ordered a Scott Drake product. I've always thought they were way over priced. Good info to know... Not sure if these pictures will help, but I just went out to the garage and snapped a few of the gas cap opening and cap. Thank you for the pictures, it look like my opening is the same as yours with everything in the correct place. I think that Scott Drake has the mustang in the wrong place so that when you turn the gas cap, it will not line up correctly. What do you think?
  23. Bought a Scott Drake Mustang Gas Cap for my 1972. No matter what I do, the horse will not line up horizontally. I posted photo's of my gas cap and the filler tube opening for reference. I do not believe that I could have installed the filler neck any other way. Did they mess up at the Gas Cap factory or is there some way to rotate the horse so that it becomes horizontal???
  • Create New...