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The General

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  1. Ad says it is a Sprint. a couple of days ago it was $8k... not the right color now , but may be a good start. https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/d/verona-72-mustang/7150126641.html
  2. Forgot to mention the custom paint... an oh you can only drive it on sunny days https://youngstown.craigslist.org/cto/d/warren-1972-mustang/7105395556.html
  3. I think the keys come with it if you were wondering
  4. I was thinking about it but... https://toledo.craigslist.org/cto/d/bryan-1972-ford-mustang-sport-roof/7100747800.html I couldn't get past the ….. well
  5. https://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/d/antioch-cj-jcode-mach-1/7074311675.html Anyone know anything about this one?
  6. Says there is a winning bid, hope someone from here got it.
  7. Saw this locally for sale, I would be willing to look at it if someone was interested, however a little too high for me. https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/ctd/d/1971-mustang-convertible-all/6545260087.html
  8. I sampled several different rattle cans and settled on POR-15 corporate blue.
  9. i finally got to work on the timing chain. I think timing was critical on this one (pun intended) . The chain had considerable slack as shown in the photo. It is a a picture of the crank timing gear. No pieces were broken, just worn out. I suggest to all, if you do not know what condition your chain is please check. Thanks for the advice.
  10. Any help to match engine paint color. I have tried Plastikote 224. Duplicolor de1606 and 1621. Just does not seem to match the little paint I have a left on the block. I have noticed the air cleaner is lighter and more blue than the block. I have 72 with 351c. I am replacing the timing chain so I wanted to clean up and paint the parts going back in. I believe it has not been painted. It's a driver but I would like to get it right. I have no experience with a sprayer so I have been using the rattle cans. Maybe the cans are too old or I did not shake them enough, none of them look right maybe it's time for a sprayer. I have the two duplicolors on the timing cover. Plastikote looked real close too. Any recommendations would be great. Thanks
  11. Three red convertibles in SW Ohio, Oh the humanity. Nice looking Vert. Welcome from Milford OH.
  12. Mike, unfortunately I do not have the old pieces. Sorry.
  13. Mike, I could not find this padding for my 72 vert, non ac. I had enough remnants to make a pattern. I settled for some silver back jute from a local GM reproduction store. I then sprayed adhesive to stick it to the body. I will check to see if I still have the old pieces to make a pattern tomorrow if you want. PM me. Eric.
  14. I purchased a new timing chain set from my local Ford parts store to replace when I get the car out of storage this Spring. I try to use Ford nos when available however the cam sprocket is plastic/nylon covered. Does this look like the right sprocket D0AZ6256A?
  15. Thanks for posting this opportunity as I missed it. This is a local car for me so I took a look at it. the car does need a complete restoration. The shock towers and inner fenders are rusted through. The drivers floor needs replaced. The trunk and tailights are rusted through as well. The interior has been home for at least one mouse. The door panels need replace. I did not bring any tools to manually crank the engine so I cannot confirm it turns. The shifter was was stuck. Fuel tanks was still leaking some gas. The fenders, doors and lower rear quarters are bondo filled. It has been sitting for many years some indoor some outdoor covered.
  16. I have checked the bushing/shaft fits and TIR a little closer. The photo is an illusion. The bushing is .002" larger than the shaft-not much lateral movement. The shaft runout between Vs is less than .0002" -on centers it is .004". The gear has a close fit (.0003" clearance) with the shaft. TIR of the gear - over pins and major diameter measured less than .001". The cam high points were within .002" TIR My guess is this is not the cause of my vibration. I do still to need to work on the mechanical advance though. Next put the distributor back in and run it. Then work on the timing chain.... maybe the valve spring.....Thanks Eric
  17. Thanks Gents, I will pull the fuel pump and see if I can feel the slack in the timing chain. For now I want to get the distributor back in and running before I work on the timing chain. I was able to pull out distributor and use an impact driver to break loose the screw that held in the plate. I have cleaned all the components and am ready to put it back together. The shaft seems to be relatively close fit with the bushing with a .002" diametral clearance. The gear has some wear but seems to feel tight when meshing with with the mating gear. See photo and let me know if it looks wrong. Not sure if I should lubricate anything in the distributor and with what as I assemble. Thanks
  18. Without taking the engine apart how do indicate what is wrong? I suspect it could be the timing chain/ gears or the distributor. Anything else that could cause this?
  19. The car is pretty original, except for a radio and speaker replacement the harness looks unmolested. So the resistor should be there. I can can try to look for it. I continue to try to take apart the distributor with a bad screw. No such luck for now. In the meantime, I checked the slack/backlash in the timing chain. I measured 14 degrees between the crank and distributor rotation when rotating the crank counterclockwise then clockwise. Could this be the cause of the timing wandering at higher rpms?
  20. Sixteen - Bought my first '72 Sportroof (maybe Mach 1). Six months later I wrecked it and my Dad convinced me to sell it to buy his '76 Mustang 4cyl instead of fixing it. I think he was a little worried. Forty three for the '72 Q convertible. It was either a boat or a car- was hoping the boys ( and the wife) could enjoy it with me...
  21. Thanks Gents, back at it... Still more to look at. I measured for TDC using the new tool and found it to be right on at TC (0 degrees). All the spark plugs an found them to be in good condition and clean. The dry compression test indicated equal pressure among the cylinders - 149-156 psi. I have taken apart the distributor to clean the counterweights that mechanically advance the timing. However have been slowed down by a stripped phillips screw. I have noticed the mechanical advance tabs are bent all the way out which I believe reduces mechanical advancement. I will continue to work on it. I am still looking for the mechanical advance curve for 351c 4v. to see how much I should bend the tabs... On a side note, I found my coil is stamped with "use external resistor". I do not believe I have this resistor.
  22. Thanks Gents, I will look at the mechanical advance. At the time I ran the test I thought we only had vacuum advance... until I broke open the book. So your recommendation is timely. The timing did start to " wander" at the higher RPM so maybe it was just starting to break loose. Should I spray contact cleaner or WD in there? I stopped by Green Sales (obsolete Ford products) to pick up NOS motorcraft points, condenser and ARF 42 plugs. They did not have the cap. Although I don't think this is the problem, it nice to have Motorcraft in there... And it should not hurt. I have ordered a TDC tool and will have it in next week. I will check the harmonic balancer and will do the compression check all at the same time. Eric
  23. Here are test results.. comments & suggestions appreciated. Thanks - Eric Distributor/ points cam: Measured across flats (.980") and points (1.026"): Max .001"-.002" variation. Runout of high points .0015" Power Balance: Cylinder drop @ 2500 RPM was 2.8-4.9% as each cylinder dropped out. Dwell was high @32 degrees but consistent across 700-2500 rpms with Vacuum advanced removed. Timing: 14 BTD Stayed consistent from 700-1600 RPM with vacuum advance removed. At 2000 > the timing was bouncing/jumping 2-4 degrees). Attached vacuum pump to vacuum advance. With 5 in Hg I was able to advance timing 14 degrees to 28-30 BTD (High)? Transmission: Pulled inspection plate and looked at Torque converter - all the bolts were tight, no teeth missing. Balance weight was intact on flywheel. Check a few of the Transmission mounting bolts and inspected the others. All were tight. I did not watch the Torque converter while running. Have not done the vacuum leak test correctly, compression test, or tried to rotate the harmonic balancer yet.
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