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Henry Ford

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Everything posted by Henry Ford

  1. Hey I am a proud til I die user of FF2 yes Ver 2.0 with all CSS and scripts disabled. I have internet access of 2 kbps and all unnecessary code is painful to wait for only to have the page time out. I love the old days of HTML and nothing else, no 1gb banner gifs or multiple menu listing of 1mb ten times on the same page. I am old (hence the passion od 71-73 cars) and I find the whole internet thing was about sharing info but now it is only a giant revenue generating ads index controlled by google !. I used to host and build sites but almost ever client wanted to be number 1 in a search engine result. There isn't enough money in the world to always be on the first page. My 2 cents, forget borders, colours, and any #@%! flash, make it a nice clear page that will appear perfect on any browser. (PC or mobile)
  2. well the 2 73s are for sale separate from the other stuff, obviously local sales are practical. http://mech.5963394.com/73mach.htm
  3. http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/cornwall-on/1973-mach-1-460-parts-car/1263753922 http://mech.5963394.com/73mach.htm
  4. There is nothing wrong with 4300s and 4300D. I run a pair of 4300s on a 351C tunnel ram and the "D" on my other 351C Pulls to 6,500 no problem
  5. WHOA! How many of us complain about buying a car that has a butchered wiring harness? NEVER CUT FACTORY WIRES! the last .PDF is to install an aftermarket "STYLE" 3 wire tach. the FORD 2 wire tach is best left in place and use the MSD tach adapter as stated. Every time a wire is cut many little electron will never find their way home. ( and mystery gremlins start haunting your ride) MSD 6 AND 6AL are easy to wire and can be dropped in stand alone just requiring a a few connections without cutting wires. Always when you can find an appropriate extra mating connector and butcher that baby. If there is a sudden failure of the installed non Ford components you can quickly revert back to the factory setup. (carry spare points and condenser in the glove box + screw driver and feeler gauge) 6,500 + rpm with Blue streak Points - no regrets.
  6. Just a note...... I have been rebuilding Ford manual trans Toploader and T5s (and also muncie and T10s) and the recent surge in china junk has made its way into the kits being sold. Some not all kits are sold like any other business, for profit not customer satisfaction. I threw a rant on another forum after installing a kit (picking the better used factory parts over some of the new cheap crap) Look at the kits, ask where the parts are made, (even though liars will say USA). Like I say "Ford spent millions on research, I doubt a 3rd world engineer can make stuff better" A can of spray paint won't make a bearing last longer or the trans shift better, FORD did not use plastic thrust washers and neither should you. The retaining rings are junk, throw them away and use the originals if you have them, way better quality.
  7. If you like those sport covers you should see them chrome ! I used polystripper and removed the paint they are completely chrome center piece. and I have the original set 14" and a a pair of Boss 15"
  8. Me 2, I have 5 D2OA chrome magnums with my 72 Gran Torino Sport.
  9. The most important thing reuse the factory fasteners if the are the proper length.(clean, polish and clearcoat or alum paint.) IF you insist on "shiny" bolts make sure they are like factory quality, Grade 8. Trans-dapt, Mr Gasket and others sell chrome or zinc plated junk, they do not take the recommended torque ratings. I am not familiar with the choke heater tube mount for that intake but if a block off plate is supplied check for proper fastener length where the threads may bottom before actual clamping is reached. I have always used the factory metal gasket with "ultra-grey" locktite RTV. I lay those cheesy rubber end seals ( I actually like them) on a thin layer of RTV on the block, add 4 gobs on the ends (head to block joint), lay my metal pan gasket in place after a super thin coating of sealer around the port openings, drop on the intake and tighten the fasteners finger tight. check to make sure the intake is parallel to the blaock surface. Tweak fasteners to pull the intake level and then snug with a wrench to sit overnight. next day remove intake and ensure pan gasket is seat properly. You may then seal the ports with a touch of RTV only enough to see grooves in your finger prints. Think of sealer as a cellophane wrap, just thick enough to keep your engine fresh, any thicker and you parts are out of tolerance. My own patented trick is to coat one mating surface with thin grease layer. I have pulled my intake and valve covers in a parking lot to swap out a bent push rod and reassembled without any sealers and drove for years after, cork and paper gaskets never tear on removal. (my valve covers use studs and the nuts are always only finger tight, only ever lost one and they never leaked, even after remove/replace many times)
  10. All the cars need something to be on the road, one the resto completed, another an engine swap and others more intense work. All to be completed with the massive pile of parts. I have had people want just one car but also wanted to rob parts from another (the 4 speed from this car to put in that one) then both cars are bastardised and no one wants the one missing the 4 speed (just an example) I had someone wanting the NOS full factory 1/4s off 3F02 then what is the car worth without 1/4s? I understand your view and if they were complete perfect cars I could sell them individually. I think the biggest issue is my location. Someone standing in front of me with cash could put me in a headlock and possibly persuade me to do something I did not want to. I looked at some pics of member's cars and it only makes me feel bad. I like each and every 71-73, they were actually the most muscular looking mustang ever. Hey Kellogg I am between Cornwall and Ottawa. 88-91 were the my years of absence from street racing but there was plenty. We would hang at the Old CTC or Home Hardware in cornwall. Our best night was 2 10 sec cars. Cops were cool and we never had any scary or unsafe times. Out of towners would come to see the action. We had rules... safety rules. I worked at 3 different speed shops so it was not hard to find participants.
  11. I understand the displeasure of having a "member" pop in and peddle parts. I have been a member on Torinocobra ( the cars that were on the road at the time) along with contributions to Boss302 reg and others. It is not that I only wanted to use this forum to sell my stuff but because I would rather have someone that enjoys these cars experience the pleasure I had when I was able, back in the day (street racing, out running the pesky "ticket man" etc.) If i listed on C/L (which no one uses in Canada vs the Ebay POS that passes for classifieds) some chev flipper would........ well..... just flip stuff. There are some gems in the pile and if any true Ford/ Mustang guy was able to acquire everything some of it could go to good homes. There was a day when I could identify EVERY part on a 71-73 including a bag of screws. I had a 3F02Q with 70 4V heads, cam, toploader and 3L25 street racing champ for a while(the LX of yesteryear) and a 3F05Q and 10 others. It is not my intention to offend anyone, I will list other places once i feel the Ford only people have had time to see this listing. On another site i demanded interested parties had to prove they owned a muscle Ford or I would not grant viewing. If you wish to remove this ad, no ill feelings will be felt. Thanks
  12. This is a mess.... for local guys only. I am placing the ad in this section because this will be a package deal. Everything Ford Parts & cars as one package. up to 11 vehicles 5 72-73s Gran Torino Sports and 2 D3ZZ sportsroof projects (460/C6/2.73 & 302/4 speed/3?50 "N" 9" + Full factory 1/4s attached with screws) + other misc drivetrain cars. 2,000 sq ft parts. 25+ v8s (12 351C), 30+ manual trans(toploader/T10/T5) 50+ 9" (& 5 8")etc. I tried this sale before and too many window shoppers. It will be a test of patience to view everything and I can't imagine transporting everything. IF you are local and wish to view or have millions for shipping costs (still need to come here to deal) send an email to arrange a meeting (snow limits access, presently viewing is possible). Some images at www.mrhford.com . No lists of parts(see sig), no individual parts sales. When it is gone i do not want any reminders. Serious investment over 30 years. Please reply with your location, I only correspond by email. Don't send phone numbers! Please reply to email picture address in link below. http://www.torinocobra.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=40500
  13. wrote a message too long to retype ....... was ate by a click on I have a new private message ( that should open in a new window )
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