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adm22

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About adm22

  • Birthday June 19

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1972 convertible with almost half a million miles 351c- T5 transmission for 24 MPG on the Hwy! Still has a few original parts on it- not many!

    also have a 1975 Bricklin with less than 20k miles.

Location

  • Location
    Wyoming a small town in the People's Republic of Illinois
  • Region
    Central

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

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  1. Goes this have the indiactor for bright lights and bad brakes somewhere? I noticed neither. A few years ago I saw mustang that had cool looking floresent gagues in it but have no idea where they cam from. Someone makes some that i found online that only have digital displays of digits- the ones I saw had an elecronic needle!
  2. I drove it to Autozone where I bought a blower motor for my newer Ford van that proved to be a real PITA to put in compared to how simples it looked when I discovered it needed to be done. Before taking it to Auto Zone I took a new brake drim off and spray painted it black so it will turn rust coloured a few years later than it was designed to.
  3. I found the build order under the front seat of my car. So I know when it was born! I also keep $100 hidden in each of my vehicles. Sort of like the PIN money that Maverick had in the old TV show.
  4. The store brand oil at Dollar General is rated SF so it has zinc in it do not know about the phosporous. It says on the bottle somewhere that it is not for use in cars built after 1989. Although I am certain that people who buy it ignore that warning.
  5. Thanks for all the information have almost too much here and my brian is beginning to hurt. I do not want to try going to fuel injection or anything that requires too much moodification to stuff since if it breaks down and I am far from home can find someone to fix it. It went with the petronix instead of a electronic box since it could be easily be changed to points if needed real quick. My engine has about 40k mile on it. I repalced it a few years back with one that was a NAPA rebuilt one. The owner had it in a barn for years since the car he had intended to put in in crashed a couple weeks after he bought the engine. He said he bought it in the early 90s, but I think it might have been older as I had to replace the heads a coupel years after it was put in due to unleaded gas screwing up the valves. The engine that had been in the car had over 300k miles on it and was starting to burn oil. I found the replacement engine relatively cheap- about $1100 less than a rebuilt one from Autozone so I jumped at getting it. I have however not been able to read the timing marks so I have no idea how close to the right settings. When the timing is advanced adn the engine is warm it does not start easily- meaning ti does not even want to turn over. I melted a batetry cable once when trying. I backed the timing off and this does not happen anymore but the MPG has suffered. Before this on one road trip I git 28 MPG I consisder this real nice. Before I put in the overdrive the car was getting about 18 on the highway. My calculations showed me that the engine with overdrive should be running .6 as fast which is about right and also I hoped would get 1.67 better gas mileage whihc would be 30 whihc it did not. As set right now it gets on average in the low 20s (city and highway). Someone told me that the engine was no lober at max torque or performance whihc is why the change upwards was not as great. Before I backed things off- I generally set the timing to where the engine sounds best at an idle. The average was aroudn 23-24. I have the 2.75 rear end. I am not looking to set any acceraltion records but also do not want the 0-60 to be a "YES". I have had no problems with acceleration as things are although I do sometimes get some pinging if I hot a hill in overdrive at less than highway speeds 40-45 MPH. The distributor is the one that has been in the car since I got it meaning it has around 475k miles on it. So perhaps it might be wearing out. It is about the only thing on the car that has not been repalced me- so like having somehting original left. What I would like to have is to ahe the engine at best possible performance in the 1800-2200 rev range and haev it so that it will still work well up to about 3000 as this is what hiway speeds were at a 1:1 3 speed and 4th speed now- so if needed could donwshift in adverse situations- mountains and like.
  6. Have a 351c with the stock Ford distributor and Petronix points replacement. It is a vacuum advance, I have also switched to a T5 and have highway gears so I am running the car at just shy of 2000 revs when I do 70 on the freeway. I have the problme when setting the timing that when it is set to get the best MPG the engine does NOT like starting when hot I ave melted a cable trying. When it is set so this does not happen the MPG suffers by about 6! Been told the best way to deal with this is to recurve the distributor. I have been searching online and found are what looks like 2 different ways of doing this- 1 is to flip a plate that is in the ditributor so that the gap on the plaate is smaller- although if I am on the small gap now this would not work. The other is to replace small springs that can be picked up at O'Reillys for about $6. So neother seems real hard to do or expensive. Just wondeirng whihc one works best or does one do both. I have also been led to believe by doing this will make the speed the engine gets best torque lower and this in turn will make MPG go up slightly. I had never heard about anyhing like this until it was mentioned on another thread here.
  7. I sold a few bits last weekend! this is what is left- met a guy oin missouri! If you PM me leave a contact email as I have been unable to reply to PMS but I can read them! Back seat, both parts for a convertble. Deluxe green good for daily driver. Riders/ sliders for both front seats. Decent shape. Dash pads a black one with one big crack and a green one that has been recovered and has now cracked. rear chrome bumper. Good for daily drivers. Have the mounting bracket for the front bumper with a dinged up bumper. Hood /bonnet standard green. Some rust on bottom. Not perfect had it on my car but replaced it with a NASA one. Passenger side fender ( 71-72 only) This has a dent that has a failed repair with some bondo in it, could be pounded out a bit before refilling. Also some surface rust, no holes. 1 Black steering wheel with cracks ine green one0 green one have the foam center section for. I have been told places can fix these. climate control panel for car with A/C also the center vent for the A/C Trim parts for the deluxe door panels. Handles for right side in green some door cups, the chrome strips and the wooden inserts. A rear tail light. There is a crack in the white case that prevents a good seal from being made when installed, however the lens and the chrome is good, so if you have a cracked lens you could make one good unit. The rear interior quarter trim in green. They are a bit worn but have not been cut up. Standard upholsery front seats- balck driver side perfect shape, passenger side ahs a small circular tear on the seat bottom taht is like a flap. Ford uplhostery not redone. Door panels- driver side deluxe one- has some trim but not handle and a hole for a non facory speacker. One crack about 2 inches long along the side of the arm rest. Also have a tub full of misc little parts that I have not take the time to catalogue. Transmission: FMX low mileage just over 13k taken out of my 75 Bricklin to replace with AOD overdrive- no problems with it. Has bell housing, torgue converter the tubes and stuff. I do regularly wind up all over the People's Republic of Illinois (where our governors make our licence plates) and neighbouring states and could be willing to meet up.
  8. My car has all sors of weird electrical problems so you would love that. I myself perfer it when there are no problems. I just bought a new flasher I need to put in sicne it was not really up to the task of flashing- I somehow managed to turn the emergency flashers on w/o knowing and saw the talilights and running lights were on- but since they were not flashing I did not think it ight be the hazard lights. When i got the battery chared did notice they almost seemed to pulse a little bit.
  9. I always thought they made the cars to be as effiecnt fuel wise as possible as the government is always wanting them to have high MPG goals. There is only so much energy in a gallon of gas and if the vechile is big and heavy it takes more to move it around so when they lighten the cars they get better MPG but they are not as safe. I have seen pics of a smart car thathit a Harley the Harley rider was scuffed up a bit and walked away the smart car driver went to hospital. I know I took the smog pump off my newer r(1975) car when i got it sicne it was frozen and the belt removed- so it was extra weight not doing anything and I found someone willing to pay me $50 for it since he wanted one on his car for car judging! Did not care that ti did not work! What all suggestions would you have- with these cheap adn easy mods. Last year before I moved the tiing back and I was getting 25 MPG on the highway I had a lot of friends who did not believe I had that kind of fuel economy- would like to get it back withour melting battery cables.
  10. I want best possibly MPG that I can get without making the car a real dog. I live in the middle of nowhere and unless I am driving he car just to test a recently made repair- the shortest trip I will take in it is going to be 45 miles. I am not really wanting to put in a 4v carb as I replaced the 2v one in the car a few years ago so it should still be good for a few more years. I sort of look at it as cost vs. future savings and they sort of hae to balance out. I would rather have better performance and fuel economy than lower emissions. Recurving the existing distributor does not sound all that hard of a thing to do. Also sounds a lot cheaper than getting a new albeit better one. I have seen that you can buy new springs for these and wondering if that is something I should get and put in since it has already been taken all apart? If it has been over 20 years since you have done this and it still works I am guessing it did not do anyting bad to the engine. As I hear there are some things that you do that have bad side efects- like overinflating tyres gets better MPG but makes them wear bad. My car got 20MPG on the highway consistently when I bought it (1992) using leaded gas that was at the time till availabel when you looked . It got about 2 MPG less on unleaded, and even when using the lead additiveit eventually wore out the valves and ! replaced and engine with one from AutoZone. After about 300k miles that one started burning oil and I replaced it with a NAPA one someoe had bought about 10 years ealier and wrecked his car before he got it in. BOth of these only got unleaded gas and until I started trying to up the MPG a few years ago they nver did better than 17-18. I had the Petronixc in it for about 2 years and noticed the biggest savinsg on thsi were that the spark pugs did not wear out every 12 to 15k miles and instead were lasting 50-60- so paid for itself just there.My biggest noticeable savings were from the t5.
  11. If you wait for low tide you will get further but still not all the way. My aversion to shipping things has nothing to do with your cash or integrity - when i first posted this someone had me pack something all up find out how much it would cost to ship- like you he was out of the counrty and then when I let him know a couple weeks lter I never heard back from him- this is something you have an interest in. None of these things I ahve here are really perfect and if you can see them before buying you cant say my description was bad plus I have no means to really pack anything but the smallest items and protecting them from the Post Awful mishandling is not an art I am real versed at. There are also problems in your instance of not even being able to send me a cheque I can cash.
  12. Two tools chests, spare tire, originaljack plus floor jack, spare tire, bottles of fluids such as oil, power steerin and brake, watertight box with shop manuals, some parts taht were taken off car and replaced but were still in useable condition, such as belts, spark plugs and plus wires. A bad with a change fo cothes in cae I get stuck somewhere far from home.
  13. I have gagues and have notcied that the Hi beam light has not been working although it was intermottent working before the change- the dash indicators for the turn signals have worked w./o incident for more thantwo years.
  14. Mesozoic I briefly looked inot fuel injection and deciedde that it was too expnsive an endeavour and as all the kits I have seen are aftermarket they might prove difficult to get worked on or repair myslef when thengs go bad. I am not mechanically incompetent but some complex prohects are beyond my skill level and the tools I have on hand. Although it seems i am constantly buying new tools that get used once then put in an ever growing pile. But I digress. My car has a 351c that is nothing special- it is a NAPA rebuild that I am guessing is as close to stock as one is going to get these days. The rear end is the 2.75 highway gear. ThingsI have done to improve the cars efficency: 1) Petronix to replace points. Did this a long time ago (20th century) liked this over the other elctronic ignition systems I saw since it can be converted back to points easily should the need arise. It has not and has lasted 300k miles give or take. 2) replaced the 3 speed with a T5 overdrive- this made the biggest difference. 3) Put a thermally activated cluth on the engine fan. Thus fan is not running at full torque unless it gets hot- something it will rarely do when air is coming through the radiator at 70MPH. I have no clue what either a WBO2 (wideband oxygen sensor) is, where it would go or what exactly a secondary carb is or does . Would getting this Mallory Unilite mechanical advance distributor. Help with the problmes I am having with mine in that either the car runs good and has hard starting when warm or else does nto get as good of MPG but will easily start. I had a mechancic who sometimes does work for me tell me I should get a compuerised fuel inhection engine from a newer car and drop it in but things with compters tend to cause a lot of problems in my experience. Although this would be something I would have to pay himfor he of course likes the idea. He also told me that I should replce the 2V carb with a 4V one- no need to change tha manifold get an adaptor plate. With thsi set up he said the two front barrels would have better MPG when cruising donw the highway and when the back ones also engaged I would get more power when I need it. I was alwys under the impression that 4v carbs were less fuel friendly but I ahve ben worng about things in the past.
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