Manu Mach1

Fabrice is a very patient man. I say that because of all his great work, but also because he's giving me some help to learn about plating, cause I'm a quick learner but I need a long explanation ;)

Congratulations TNFASTBK :)

Here is the engine block back from the mechanic. I must have almost all the spare parts to rebuild this engine. I'll now need patience and methodology to be able to reassemble everything in good order and above all to start it, it will be my best gift. I'll be free in two weeks and then I'll be able to start the reassembly.

I'm in. All the good advice I got here means a lot compared to my modest participation. For the best 71/73 site ever.

I can't help it, but it reminds me of a distributor I just bought, it's supposed to be new, and I got screwed. A first class fiddling has been done on this igniter, really strange fiddling. And you can see the stock distributor from my 73 Mach 1 and its original pin. Hope nothing else has been damage in your engine. Good luck.

The camshaft will be very close as the stock one, so yes, it's a good point to keep my stock heads.

Always sad to read those bad news. myeloma disease was that one which took my dad, I know what it does. Sorry for your loss, today for mother's day we have a though for you and your kids and grand kids. May she is in Mustang heaven.

And you need the right thermostat, Robert Shaw 333 series or equivalent which seat on the restrictor plate.

73 heads with 2.05/1.65 valves and 71 heads with 2.19/1.71 valves, both are open chambers. knowing that I found this pair of 71 cylinder heads for cheap, the guides are ok, but that I already had the valve guides and reinforced seats installed on the 73s. What would be your choice, and why? 73 351C 4V heads 4 bolts main.

It's done! All is in place, was not so easy, because the worth thing is to be a snake to connect all things in horizontal position with not much room under the dash board. But to me was the not easiest part to do, not the work, but all different parts needed to do the swap how it need to be done.

"First the Scott Drake bearing kit is installed on the CLUTCH shaft, not the brake" You just gave me the answer I inserted the clutch pedal through the brake one, so the brake pedal is not on its position, how could I do this mistake! It's why on one of my pics the brake pedal is lower than the clutch one. But everything comes together very easely, it's why I didn't imagine make a wrong assembly. I have to wait friday to setup all correctly :(

Non monsieur, that pin touch nothing, but thanks to dig with me :) Next weekend I will remove the Scott Drake kit and try with the automatic brake pedal. The supports holes are oblong, it could be this, maybe...

Hi Tim, nice to read you too :) Well, the booster is ok, it's a new one, and the rod is at the same length as the previous one, the pedal has the same angle as the one I replaced. The only thing I did, is to install this kit from Scott Drake with the bearings, my guess is that the angle changed because of this kit, I can't stop thinking from where it could be. Till now for me it's a mystery, but I have to find out... It's for sure something easy and I don't "see" it, but what.

I continue with the Toploader and the original Zbar link. Not easy here to find trannies as in the US. My rear end is 3.25 and the Toploader a wide ratio, won't be so bad to drive. A fifth gear would be appreciated, but... Need now to find out where I messed up to get the brake pedal too close to the firewall.