Jump to content

akherber

VIP Members
  • Posts

    119
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

akherber last won the day on June 16 2012

akherber had the most liked content!

About akherber

  • Birthday 11/12/1985

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mach 1
    351c 2v
    Edelbrock 4bbl, Performer Intake
    Ram-Air
    Pertronix Electronic Ignition

Location

  • Location
    Choctaw, Oklahoma
  • Region
    South

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

akherber's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

6

Reputation

  1. First of all my apologies for the massive delay in my response. Life happened. Summary of events. Ordered a different set of LED bulbs from NPD that had been recommended specifically for the Mustang application. No dice. So, options: cut the harness and rewire/frankenstein it into working or just go with a new set of Amber Incandescent bulbs. I chose the latter. I just don't have the real desire to rewire and rework for what little gain is to be had. Now, hopefully the other bulbs I have for the cluster work as designed or then I may seriously be tempted to go ham. Thanks again for all the replies and knowledge. As always, this forum is a gold mine.
  2. Gorgeous Color. Maybe I am a bit biased though...
  3. The Polarity for the running lamp circuit appears to be reversed. Unfortunately this is not correctable in the circuitry and is a failure of the bulb's design. Anyone used LED replacements for the front running lamps / blinkers? I'm looking for good suggestions before I just give up... Edit: I know it sounds weird to say the bulb is messed up but if I turn the bulb around in the socket (1157s have offset bayonet fittings to prevent them from being installed incorrectly) and hold it in place with the running lights on it works. But I have no way to reverse the polarity to the bulb since obviously with the blinkers working, the polarity is correct on the other side of the system. I'm so confused. I just wanted plug and play happiness lol.
  4. Okay, let me explain. No, there is too much. Let me sum up... HiPo Elite LED kit for the cluster, running markers and brakes, reverse, blinkers and front running lamps. Front running lights don't work. Everything is working now EXCEPT: my front running lights do not work. Running lights = parking lights. For those who use different terminology. Installed Electronic Flashers. Obviously they are working as seen below. Am I dealing with a bad ground? I'm really confused how my blinkers work fine until the running lights are on. But the running lights don't work at all. Headlights/running lights OFF: Front Blinkers - Work Rear Blinkers - Work Headlings/Running Lightst ON: Front Blinkers - Do not work, associated blinker lights up half power and remains steady. Rear Blinkers - Do not work, associated side does not change. I am confused how my blinkers work fine but my running lights don't. HELP! Edit: Allow me to thicken the plot. Regular Incandescent Lamps allow the system to work perfectly.
  5. Thanks again Chuck. Looking back over my old posts Don I found that the source goodnigh had located was the Ebay posts I found quite awhile ago. Never sat well with the price they wanted for something that is quite small. I will continue my search. Imagine that, starting where I had left off before I managed to find the name and a part number! Air Intake Temperature Sensor D0ZZ-9E607-B $45 On ebay for an original part with the clip. Looks like duralast used to make it but I couldn't find a source.
  6. Thanks Chuck for your reply. I have realized that the name for this item is different in every book and diagram I have found. To be realistic, is this part necessary? I mean, with proper choke settings my car runs ok even on cold mornings. I feel like this could be an improvement to the warm-up time on < 40 degree mornings. But if its going to be a royal pain to locate, then Im not really that determined.
  7. No, for awhile I thought that was the part they used. This is a bi-metallic switch that goes inside the air cleaner. It has one side from vacuum and the other to the vacuum motor on the snorkel switching the air from outside to the hot air tube the connects to the exhaust manifold.
  8. Alrighty. Im trying to piece together where to get parts for my pre-heat system. I have found plenty of sources for the pre-heat tube (hot air tube from the exhaust manifold to snorkel). Having issues finding the correct name for the thermal vacuum switch that activates the vacuum motor on the snorkel. The actual part name would be a great help and even better would be a link to a good source for it. Thanks for the replies. -Kyle
  9. Actually the first place I went, and it was clean as could be. I have been on that thing like a hawk since the last debacle.
  10. Piper Cherokee. Easy enough plane to learn on. I had plenty of fun.
  11. Well, unrelated to mustangs, other than I am glad my car decided to cooperate and get me to my flight this morning, I just completed my first solo flight.
  12. Alrighty, update: Got some of the STP stuff in the orange bottle and added that to the tank. Also got under the hood and rechecked every connection I could find to make sure they were well seated. The problem did not occur again today in over 2 hours of total driving. If it does resurface, I will begin troubleshooting with the electricals. Thanks for the input everyone.
  13. You know, it could possibly be bad gas. I can pick up an additive. The tach is an aftermarket that is strapped to my steering column. (No stock tach, dummy lights [for now]). I dont have a stock coil but the auto hobby shop likely has an extra lying around that I could at least use for fault isolation. Thanks for the suggestions. Anything anyone else comes up with is welcome.
  14. Alrighty, The issue started this morning. Intermittent. Runs very rough. I watch the tach drop in and out. At first I thought higher RPMs were solving it but thats not it because it gets bad at higher RPMs as well. Fuel and Air aren't the issue. All my wires are on tight. This problem hadn't started until this morning. Goes away at times and then comes back. I really want to say it is electrical but I have no idea where to start. Pertronix and the Flamethrower Coil on a stock Distributor. Plugs, Wires and the Ignition System are just under 2 years old. Dunno where to start troubleshooting.
  15. Yes, I just need something to stop the damage before the car actually makes it to the body shop. And a garage isn't a likely option at this juncture. So, just researching the options. I suppose I will just wait and cringe
×
×
  • Create New...