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SalmonTex

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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mustang Mach 1
    Bright Red

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  • Location
    Dallas, TX
  • Region
    South

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  1. Thanks man, I'm in Murphy so that's quite the coincidence lol. Just need to get the car down here so I can pay someone with beer to help me get her running.
  2. Ok I will make sure to look into carb adjustments next. I did not measure the fuel pressure, but when we unhooked it from the carb it was spraying to the front of the engine bay when we cranked the engine, and filled a small container with fuel after only a few attempts to turn over the engine. Timing is set at 10 degrees full advance at 3,200 RPM. Sounds like I may just need to invest in some pressure gauge tools :) Thanks for all the help everyone.
  3. It's the Summit Racing 750 cfm carb. All of the literature that came with it said that it should be configured correctly from the factory, so I have not messed around with it as of yet. I'm getting great pressure from the pump so pretty sure it's not that.
  4. I've recently relocated to Texas from Michigan, where I had the engine rebuilt (And where the car is currently being stored). Wondering if anyone knows of good mechanics/shops to contact in the DFW/North Texas region to help get the car running. I was able to get the rebuilt engine/trans in the car and all hooked up, but never got it to the point of idling on it's own. It would stall at anything below 2,000 RPM. I'm looking to ship the car down here and want to get some help getting it running so I don't have to tow it between my garage and storage unit. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but am a bit out of my element when it comes to carbureted engines and would just like to find someone with more experience to trouble shoot it with me. Thanks for any info you can provide.
  5. I recently had my engine built on the mild side of what you are looking at. I told my engine builder that my target was 400+/- hp, reliability, and a fairly stock appearance. He built it to 10:1 compression so it will require premium fuel, which I was fine with. He was a very knowledgeable Ford/Mustang engine builder, and helped to recommend peripherals along the way. For now i'm using the stock intake manifold with aftermarket points distributor, 750cfm carb, and headers. I have yet to fire up the car and drive it to even know how it performs, but I'd be happy to share any more information on my engine build as I recently went through the process (this is my first restoration as well.) Unfortunately I no longer have a numbers matching car--my car was purchased by my dad in the late 70's when he was in college, and he immediately swapped the original Q-code for a built 1970 M-code and turned it into a drag racer. The good news is I have closed chamber 4v heads and was able to have my engine built to take advantage of that setup. Even though my engine isn't what the car came with from the factory, I am still interested in a more stock appearance as well. Good luck.
  6. Nobody? I'm willing to sell just the good one if anyone's interested? Take a look at the second to last post in the thread linked below for some info for welding the cracked head. If anyone's near Michigan it sounds like there is a metro Detroit welding shop that can handle something like this. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-starting-engine-build-which-block-do-i-use
  7. Wouldn't this prevent it from even cranking? It cranks just fine, just won't turn over. I will check the dwell angle this weekend. The coil voltage is fine, 12.6 or so. Yes I planned to drain the fuel tank before trying again for sure. I did read something about priming the oil pump so I will look into that as well. As far as being local, I'm no longer in GR. Moved to the Detroit area a couple years ago and I can't figure out how to update my profile info on here? Thanks for all the suggestions though.
  8. I had my engine rebuilt 3 years ago, and am just now getting to the point that I have it back in the car and everything hooked up and ready to fire up. Current setup is as follows: 1970 351C block 4.030 bore w/ KB cast pistons 214/224 @ .050, .512/.538, 112 LC 4V CC heads Malory dual points distributor Summit Racing 750 CFM carb w/ elec. choke Factory iron intake The car will stutter when cranking and a bit of fuel is poured in the carb, but it won't sustain itself after that. Things that I have already checked: -Fuel is getting to the carb, so pump is working -Fuel is mixture of 2 gallons fresh, 2 gallons still in from before the engine was rebuilt (3 years) -Good spark at the coil -Good spark at plug #1 (Have not checked all others yet) -Confirmed correct firing order -Advancing & retarding timing slightly I plan to check the spark at the remaining plugs, and assuming those are good, next step is to pull the distributor and try resetting it. Next step would be to drain the fuel tank and replace with all 93 octane. I'm at a loss after that. Thanks for any advice.
  9. They've been sand blasted and magnafluxed and found that one has a small crack. They are currently unprimed/painted. The location of the crack is shown in the last pic below, outlined in pink paint pen. Asking $250. I have all OEM valve train including valves, springs, pushrods, and rockers.
  10. I assumed that this may have been a service vehicle as well because of the dual dipsticks. Back when I was researching this engine to start as a project, I was coming to many of the same conclusions as you guys. Unfortunately the first 4 digits of the VIN stamped on the heads are scraped off, but I was thinking it either came from a Gran Torino or a Bronco.
  11. Thanks Chuck. However, if I were interested in going with a vacuum secondary newer carb, would there be anything different you would recommend than posted above? Thanks David. I was able to find a replacement set of CC heads for a good price, though you give me hope that I may be able to sell the cracked one I still have. My engine is almost complete, and I expect to have some pics up soon, and fire it up this spring.
  12. Fully assembled engine. Block code D2AE-CA, 2-bolt mains. Heads and intake have '74 and '75 date codes. Was told that it was in running condition when purchased, though in need of gaskets and seals. I have had it stored on an engine stand for 10+ years. Also, any suggestions for other outlets for selling a piece like this would be appreciated.
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