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SalmonTex

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Everything posted by SalmonTex

  1. Thanks man, I'm in Murphy so that's quite the coincidence lol. Just need to get the car down here so I can pay someone with beer to help me get her running.
  2. Ok I will make sure to look into carb adjustments next. I did not measure the fuel pressure, but when we unhooked it from the carb it was spraying to the front of the engine bay when we cranked the engine, and filled a small container with fuel after only a few attempts to turn over the engine. Timing is set at 10 degrees full advance at 3,200 RPM. Sounds like I may just need to invest in some pressure gauge tools :) Thanks for all the help everyone.
  3. It's the Summit Racing 750 cfm carb. All of the literature that came with it said that it should be configured correctly from the factory, so I have not messed around with it as of yet. I'm getting great pressure from the pump so pretty sure it's not that.
  4. I've recently relocated to Texas from Michigan, where I had the engine rebuilt (And where the car is currently being stored). Wondering if anyone knows of good mechanics/shops to contact in the DFW/North Texas region to help get the car running. I was able to get the rebuilt engine/trans in the car and all hooked up, but never got it to the point of idling on it's own. It would stall at anything below 2,000 RPM. I'm looking to ship the car down here and want to get some help getting it running so I don't have to tow it between my garage and storage unit. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but am a bit out of my element when it comes to carbureted engines and would just like to find someone with more experience to trouble shoot it with me. Thanks for any info you can provide.
  5. I recently had my engine built on the mild side of what you are looking at. I told my engine builder that my target was 400+/- hp, reliability, and a fairly stock appearance. He built it to 10:1 compression so it will require premium fuel, which I was fine with. He was a very knowledgeable Ford/Mustang engine builder, and helped to recommend peripherals along the way. For now i'm using the stock intake manifold with aftermarket points distributor, 750cfm carb, and headers. I have yet to fire up the car and drive it to even know how it performs, but I'd be happy to share any more information on my engine build as I recently went through the process (this is my first restoration as well.) Unfortunately I no longer have a numbers matching car--my car was purchased by my dad in the late 70's when he was in college, and he immediately swapped the original Q-code for a built 1970 M-code and turned it into a drag racer. The good news is I have closed chamber 4v heads and was able to have my engine built to take advantage of that setup. Even though my engine isn't what the car came with from the factory, I am still interested in a more stock appearance as well. Good luck.
  6. Nobody? I'm willing to sell just the good one if anyone's interested? Take a look at the second to last post in the thread linked below for some info for welding the cracked head. If anyone's near Michigan it sounds like there is a metro Detroit welding shop that can handle something like this. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-starting-engine-build-which-block-do-i-use
  7. Wouldn't this prevent it from even cranking? It cranks just fine, just won't turn over. I will check the dwell angle this weekend. The coil voltage is fine, 12.6 or so. Yes I planned to drain the fuel tank before trying again for sure. I did read something about priming the oil pump so I will look into that as well. As far as being local, I'm no longer in GR. Moved to the Detroit area a couple years ago and I can't figure out how to update my profile info on here? Thanks for all the suggestions though.
  8. I had my engine rebuilt 3 years ago, and am just now getting to the point that I have it back in the car and everything hooked up and ready to fire up. Current setup is as follows: 1970 351C block 4.030 bore w/ KB cast pistons 214/224 @ .050, .512/.538, 112 LC 4V CC heads Malory dual points distributor Summit Racing 750 CFM carb w/ elec. choke Factory iron intake The car will stutter when cranking and a bit of fuel is poured in the carb, but it won't sustain itself after that. Things that I have already checked: -Fuel is getting to the carb, so pump is working -Fuel is mixture of 2 gallons fresh, 2 gallons still in from before the engine was rebuilt (3 years) -Good spark at the coil -Good spark at plug #1 (Have not checked all others yet) -Confirmed correct firing order -Advancing & retarding timing slightly I plan to check the spark at the remaining plugs, and assuming those are good, next step is to pull the distributor and try resetting it. Next step would be to drain the fuel tank and replace with all 93 octane. I'm at a loss after that. Thanks for any advice.
  9. They've been sand blasted and magnafluxed and found that one has a small crack. They are currently unprimed/painted. The location of the crack is shown in the last pic below, outlined in pink paint pen. Asking $250. I have all OEM valve train including valves, springs, pushrods, and rockers.
  10. I assumed that this may have been a service vehicle as well because of the dual dipsticks. Back when I was researching this engine to start as a project, I was coming to many of the same conclusions as you guys. Unfortunately the first 4 digits of the VIN stamped on the heads are scraped off, but I was thinking it either came from a Gran Torino or a Bronco.
  11. Thanks Chuck. However, if I were interested in going with a vacuum secondary newer carb, would there be anything different you would recommend than posted above? Thanks David. I was able to find a replacement set of CC heads for a good price, though you give me hope that I may be able to sell the cracked one I still have. My engine is almost complete, and I expect to have some pics up soon, and fire it up this spring.
  12. Fully assembled engine. Block code D2AE-CA, 2-bolt mains. Heads and intake have '74 and '75 date codes. Was told that it was in running condition when purchased, though in need of gaskets and seals. I have had it stored on an engine stand for 10+ years. Also, any suggestions for other outlets for selling a piece like this would be appreciated.
  13. So you wouldn't have any issue running a 30+ year old carb on a freshly rebuilt engine? And just to be clear, is this the type of rebuild kit you are recommending? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-37-485/applications For my knowledge, what would you consider a "decent" gear? I still haven't jacked the car up yet and measured. I may have time to do it this weekend. I just picked up the engine from the shop this weekend, so now I am eager to get it completed to put back in the car and fire it up. Do I even have the option of sticking with the stock M code intake with this carb? The mounting holes line up, but the mounting flanges are not the same profile. I was hoping to only have to buy EITHER a new car OR an intake, but if the Edlebrock Scorpion intake is too tall, I may not have a choice.
  14. Ok, so I'm supposed to be picking up the completed engine this week and have been researching carburetors. Based on the Holley "list" number found on the carburetor that my dad put on the car in the early 80s when he built it up, it is a 700 CFM double pumper with mechanical secondaries. The link below looks exactly like my carb. so I assume Holley hasn't changed the design much in the past 30 years. ;) https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/double_pumper/classic_double_pumper/parts/0-4778C My options going forward are, in order of cost from lowest to highest: 1. Rebuild it myself - $50 2. Have it rebuilt professionally - $200 (Engine shop quote) 3. Buy new - $400+ (It sounds like ideally I would want vacuum secondaries for my application and something in the 650-750 CFM range for my mild build and expectations) I'm torn because it seems like the carb I have is a good unit, and didn't get much use so if rebuilt properly could be a great performer. However, it is a mechanical secondary so that may be a bit more hassle. Also, I am fairly confident that I will be using the Scorpion intake. Thanks for the feedback guys.
  15. Take the money that the "port plates" cost and put it towards an increased capacity oil pan instead. The Scorpion intake is an unusual piece. Some testing I've read about, by Dan Jones, suggests it works well at least above 4000, but it is almost 2 inches taller than a torquer intake and hood clearance may be a problem. The Edelbrock RPM air gap may be an alternative. If the C6 came from a 351CJ, the stall should be okay. The cam sounds ok but, if you are springing for the studs and guide plates I'd be looking for at least .050 more lift, not more duration, to more effectively use the 4V heads. For gear ratio determination try this method. http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/faqs#What%20gear%20ratio%20do%20I%20have? Have you researched oiling modifications? Chuck Thanks for the response chuck. I have an increased capacity oil plan, but what other oil mods are you referring to? A high flow pump? Are you suggesting the port plates are ineffective? I wondered about that intake. My dad had a custom raised mail slot hood on the car when he drove it so I'm guessing the Scorpion probably won't clear the OE hood with air cleaner. I will probably try out the stock manifold for a bit. As for the cam, I asked my engine builder for something with a moderate idle that would give a decent bump in performance over stock but remains reliable and trouble free and that is the cam he recommended based on that criteria. Unfortunately, the driveshaft and transmission are currently out of the car so I cannot use the method in that link to check my gear ratio. I would assume that it's been upgraded based on how my dad had the car built back in the early 80s. He was running 11.5:1 compression and said he was able to roast 50 series tires without much effort.
  16. Well I got in the Christmas spirit and finally pulled the trigger on the engine work.;) This is what the build will consist of: New main, cam, & rod bearings Flat tappet cam - Duration: 280/290 - 214/224 @.050; Lift: .510/.510; Centerlines: 107/117; LSA: 112 .030 cylinder overbore Ken Block pistons & rings Hydraulic lifters DOAE 4V closed chamber heads Grind & tap heads for 7/16" stud & PRW Stainless Steel rocker arms MPG port plates Pushrods & guides Valve springs & seats Double roller timing chain Oil pump Items I still need to evaluate/research: -Currently have a Mallory dual point distributor, considering doing the Unilite conversion kit -I have an Edlebrock Scorpion intake or the stock 4V CJ manifold to choose from initially -Holley 750 CFM double pumper, needs to be rebuilt -Headers/exhaust -C6 transmission with OE stall to be rebuilt this winter/spring -Unkown rear end gearing; Anybody know the best way to assess what I have installed? I expect to have the engine completed early in the new year. Thanks for any feedback/suggestions.
  17. My bad, I was misreading the specs. It's a 112 degree LSA. I've been reading a lot of George pence posts on various forums and he suggests a cutoff of 350lbs of valve spring pressure before NEEDING the 7/16" studs. I have been unable to find the calculation for that. Can anyone help me out? I don't plan to run this thing that hard. Maybe a hard pull to 60-80 mph every now and then. I expect to put about 1-2k miles a year on it, will not be drag racing, and would like for it to be a hassle free reliable motor. Though Of course I want it to have some muscle car sound and reasonable performance to back it up. Just not quite sure where that leaves me in the 7/16" rocker stud/stall converter/rear axle gearing decision. Thanks again for all the advice guys.
  18. Thanks for the responses. I forgot to mention that nearly $600 of that engine build can be attributed to the roller rocker conversion ($320 labor & $250 parts). I asked him to give me a cost for the conversion, but is not something that I'm convinced one way or the other yet. The Crane conversion kit w/ the 5/16" studs would save me about $200, and sticking w/ stock steel pedestal rockers saves me about $500. Any input there would be helpful as well, though I'm sure that's a topic that has been covered pretty thoroughly, and ultimately is something that I need to decide if it is a "needed" or "recommended" upgrade. As for the cam, it's actually a 107 degree lobe separation angle. Maybe it's because I'm new to auto restoration projects, but it just doesn't feel right to me to throw on modern aluminum heads. I'm still struggling with the idea of not using the stock intake manifold.:) I'm more interested in restoring the car than simply gaining performance for the lowest possible cost.
  19. Not sure about the gears. I know it has the stock C6 trans and will be having a friend rebuild that next, so my options are open. I'm still catching up on my research of the engine, haven't made it to the trans yet. Until now I wasn't planning to modify the trans from stock, but I'm guessing if increasing power, it only makes sense to adjust the gearing accordingly. Motoarts, i want to build it right as I plan to drive the car regularly and keep it long term, so I'm prepared to pay for quality parts and labor. I have considered a crate engine, but I would much prefer to keep this a Cleveland-powered car. Based on initial estimates from the engine shop, I'm looking at $2.5-3k all in not including the 4v cores.
  20. The engine shop has a source for some 4V CC heads and the guy wants $450 for the set and is throwing in a matching stock intake manifold (Though I probably won't use it). He is also suggesting this cam: 214/224 @ .050 duration and .510/.536 lift, hydraulic lifters. The car is an auto w/ C6 trans and I will be keeping stock wheels/tires for at least a few years. Any feedback is appreciated.
  21. So where's the best place to find a CC 4V head? I see a few on eBay, but seems like it would be hard to trust someone on a part like that as far as cracks, condition, etc.
  22. I'm not quite sure. What's your reason for asking? I will get more information the next time I talk to the engine shop, but my guess would be somewhere near cylinder #6. When doing a compression test before pulling the engine, we were getting ZERO compression on #6, and about 75% compression on the two adjacent cylinders.
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