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71 money pit

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71 money pit last won the day on October 1 2014

71 money pit had the most liked content!

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    1971 Mach 1
    2000 Mountaineer
    2002 Lincoln LS
    2003 Ranger


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  1. Thanks for all your interest but I have decided to try and sell these parts locally first.
  2. I mounted the same type of overflow tank in the same position. I did not like the way that it stood out. I took it back out, roughed up the shiny finish with Scotch Brite and painted the tank with a rattle can to match the semi gloss black paint in front. The only thing I did not paint was the cap. You can hardly see the overflow tank unless you were really looking for it. The cap only shows up when the hood is open.
  3. Welcome Chris, I am in the Ahwatukee area (Phoenix).
  4. I have been working there since June. House finally sold in California. I put my car on the Reliable Transport truck this morning. Back to work next week.
  5. Great idea to drill in reverse, never would have thought of that. I do know you can't drill through carpet, big mess. The floor pan has no holes so drill we must. I was going to use a cork trephine and punch a hole through the carpet and underlayment once the console is lined up. mike I have read somewhere to use a hot soldering iron to poke through the carpet and existing floor pan hole. Feel for the floor pan hole on top of the carpet and poke the soldering iron through the carpet and hole. It is supposed to leave a nice clean hole in the carpet. My friend tried it on his 1977 F150 and said it worked well.
  6. I installed the complete Ram Air setup that I bought from Ohio Mustang Supply 2-3 years ago. It fit fine and the flappers still work well. Just be careful when attaching the vacuum hoses to the flapper's vacuum actuators, don't use too much force. The nipple is just pressed into the vacuum canister. Mine came off once but I pushed it back in with no further problems.
  7. uv, if I remember right the kit came with 5x bright white LED and red LED bulbs for my cluster. My set had the red for the warning lights (non-TACH car). The bulbs simply replace the current bulb already in the socket. The only catch is the (+) and (-) sides of the bulb/socket must be placed on the printed circuit (back of cluster) as per the instruction sheet. (I guess the current flow must be right for the LEDs to work):rolleyes:. With the 5x brighter kit the wiring and blue difusers remain origional thus giving the factory "blue" look to the lighting. Hardest part is taking the left dash apart to pull the cluster. I've also replaced the door courtecy land map lights with LED bulbs. Makes a big difference and they don't get hot. Here is the web site for the company that made my kit. www.HiPoParts.com. Good luck I am also planning on installing the LED lights when I take my dash apart to fix my clock. I am still trying to figure out what color bulbs to get in order to keep the stock green look. 1. Install green 5X LED's and remove the diffusers? 2. Install white 5X LED's and keep the diffusers? Does anyone have pictures before/after LED light installs?
  8. I have a stock 351c 4V with a cast iron stock 4V intake and A C6. I changed from the stock Autolite 4300 carburetor to a 670 Holley Street Avenger. I have had the Holley on for more than 2 years. Right out of the box with no jet changes, it has been running flawlessly and with no leaks. It performs much better than the Autolite. Prior to that, I installed Dougs Ceramic coated headers, Summit part number DOU-D6714. They fit well but about an inch from the stater and transmission. They still look good after almost 3 years in service. They also helped performance.
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