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Posts posted by jbojo

  1. 1 hour ago, MountainMach said:

    Thanks for the reply! How far apart were their build dates? Would be neat to find one or more assembly line buddies of this car.

    Edit: In case it flew under your radar, my car was originally "Gold Glow". It was repainted red, early in its life. After that, when it was finally restored, from an already very clean state, they made it this metallic green'ish color. Kind of a shame it didn't end up back to original, but I like it anyway.

    Here's my Marti.




  2. I don't think that it provides any measurable performance increase, it's just meant to get cooler air (more dense) to the motor instead of drawing from a hot engine compartment.  Keeping the actuator doors connected keeps rain water/dirt from entering your air cleaner when doing normal driving.  Only when accelerating quickly or motor off will the hood doors be open.   The solenoid in the air cleaner snorkel will draw air from the top of the exhaust manifold during cold starts or from engine compartment while driving after the motor has warmed up. During hard acceleration the outside ambient air enters the air cleaner and provides some positive pressure to force the hot engine air back out through the snorkel and into the engine compartment so that you have cooler/denser air entering the carb.  I think that was the design concept but in reality it only provides minimal performance increase, just the cool factor is gained :-)

  3. My 5 speed tranny was delivered today and took 4 yrs to get but I think it was worth the wait.  The shifter was moved back 6 inches and raised by about the same amount by using a dogbone plate mounted on the front mounting point to get the proper placement..  This was unique to the Roadrunners with bench seats from 1971 on.  The .70 overdrive and 4.10 rear should work well together on the freeways. All B and E body cars with bucket seats had the shifter mounted to the tailshaft either in the forward or rear spot.  imagejpeg_0.thumb.jpg.9fc7c4e0de7335489cd9b028386dd6be.jpg20190818_133112.thumb.jpg.0d627b1c550ea5e07676ea8f844ad0a4.jpg

  4. Actually upon further inspection, that one is a bit different.

    This in the one I’m looking for.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    I have one, it is powered coated gray.  I'll see if I can get a pic if you are interested.


    Mine is actually a dark gray/black never installed.  It is an Edelebrock Torker for 351C 4v, a little dusty from being stored for a few years.  Attached a top and bottom pic.



  5. This shifter is a very nice object on itself. Is the handle made of wood or is it fake plastic?


    They are molded so I believe that it is plastic.  They do make these grips in other materials such as carbon fiber and other shades of wood.  Just an FYI they also have the old shifters used in Mustangs if you anyone is in the market for a replacement.

  6. Tires that I plan to use are:

    FRT - G60-15 Goodyear

    Rear - L60-15 Goodyear


    Rims will be Black steel that were standard for the car with hubcaps.  Car will look something like this with a half black vinyl top and turn down exhausts, not the machine gun type that many of these cars had.  Color is Curious Yellow.  What do you guys think?





  7. Here is an original A833 tranny.  You really can't tell the difference between the new 5 speed and the old 4 speed if you don't look at them closely.  The obvious difference is that the new has an aluminum casing while the old is steel.  What they did was to design the overdrive gear to use the reverse lever so they maintained the same appearance, that lever has 2 functions instead of 1 now.  The benefit is that besides keeping the original looks you don't have to chop up the cars tunnel to install the other 5 and 6 speed trannies that are available now.


  8. I found the shifter that I needed.  Hurst is now producing them again and was able to get the bench seat model that I needed.  It was actually cheaper to buy the new one than to have the old one re-chromed.  Also was able to get the correct lens for the shift pattern from them.  These parts will be in next week.



  9. Cant wait to see the project finished. Hope you post a video when your completed


    I plan to document the build for this as I go along.  I can't believe that it took 4 yrs for this to be produced and so far only less than 100 have been made for A and E bodies.  This is one of the first RR ones to be made for a bench seat model (B body), most are for the bucket seat ones..

  10. Has any one ever replaced the mirror part of their rear view mirror.  I have been told that a flex style mirror glass is available to use as a replacement.  Use a heat gun to warm up the mirror black plastic surrounding the mirror to get it to flex then "pop out" the existing mirror (glass).  Sounds pretty strait forward, however sometime simple things can be a problem.  Just wondering if any one has ever done this.  Any tips would be appreciated.





    Have you thought of just replacing it?  I think they run around $30 or so.  Check with Don at Ohio Mustang and he can tell you if it is close to the original in looks and design.  I went that route when I replaced mine and they were similar in looks..

  11. Sounds like the brake proportioning valve could be bad too. That is the unit that causes the brake light to come on when brake pressures are not the same in all lines. There is a rod/piston inside that unit that is usually centered in the valve body. If the pressure is higher on one side if forces the rod to move off center and the light to come on. There are springs inside that can get gummed up that prevents the rod from centering after it ages. There are rebuild kits available or you can just buy a new one. When I went 4 wheel disk I had to change my disk/drum one to disk/disk and they run around $100 or so and make sure you get the right one. The other unit to suspect is the master cylinder, there are rebuild kits for that too. There is also a rod with a couple of o rings that can wear and cause pressure going to the proportional valve to be higher on one side than the other. There are two lines from the master cylinder going to the proportional valve, one line to each side of the piston and the pressures should be equal. I would check the master cylinder first and then the proportional valve.

  12. That all makes it very clear guys, thanks for explaining! Didn’t think that snorkel is important for starting up. Many cars don’t have it. Does the snorkel make a big difference for starting up or was it more an environmental thing?


    For my car at the back of the air cleaner there is a temp switch in the base that is used to control the vacuum motor on the snorkel.  The snorkel would direct air from the outside air or air directly from around the exhaust manifold.  When you do a cold start the air would be ported from around the exhaust manifold which would get heated from the exhaust to help atomize the fuel.  When the air temp rose the switch would cut off the vacuum to the vacuum motor and it would close off the exhaust manifold heat and fresh air would then be directed to the air cleaner because the engine block heat would provide the heat needed to atomize the fuel going into the intake and you would want cold air entering the motor for a denser air/fuel mixture. 


    Hope this makes sense.


    I see Don answered this too.

  13. A cold engine needs a higher fuel to air ratio than a warm engine, this is because it cannot vaporize the fuel as fast as a warm engine.

    A carburetor cannot easily adjust for this, most have a choke that can restrict the incoming air to create more vacuum and allow the engine to take in more fuel. Because of this the car cannot perform well until it has warmed up and the choke has been opened back up.

    In a Fuel injected car the fuel injectors are just set to add the extra fuel as necessary, this allows the engine to be ready almost immediately.


    I am using an EFI setup and don't have to wait for the motor to warm, acts like a modern day car.

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