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IA Rider

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Everything posted by IA Rider

  1. The overall length is 159". As you can see in these pics it could be 3" shorter in the rear but if you plan to use the farthest forward bumper mounting hole it will need to be about 11" longer in the front.
  2. I bought the car 30 years ago just before I started dating my wife so the car is kind of special to both of us. Before I started tearing the car apart I asked the wife if we should sell it or fix it up. She wanted it fixed up now she complains that I spend more time with the car than her lol. The main reason I am bound to the car is a bet that I made with a friend about 15 years ago that I would finish my Mach 1 before he finishes his 68 Camaro. He has made a lot of progress on the Camaro the past year. We have a 12 pack riding on it.
  3. Blasting was a in the plan at the beginning of this project but at this point it would definitely be a waste. I'm glad I did not spend money on blasting. Under the hood I replaced the inner fender aprons and the radiator support many years ago. Since the shock towers and frame rails under the shock towers are rusty I will be removing the shock towers, repairing the frame and installing a mustang II front end kit. This car was too rusty and should have went to the scrap yard.
  4. I finally have the trunk floor welded to the frame rails. Repaired the RH torque box and toe board area and got started cutting out LH torque box toe board.
  5. My car is a 73 so it might be different since it has the crash bumper. It measures 12.12 to the center of the weld nut that is located in the center of the slotted hole. The two frame diagrams show two different figures. One shows 12.38" the other diagram (same one that shows the rear measurement at 15.03") shows the bumper hole at 11.91.
  6. Yes the steering and idle arm matched at 15.87" and 10.4". 15.03" at the rear spring perch.
  7. That is correct the rocker is not parallel.
  8. Glad to see you got it straight. Any chance you can put a spacer probably about 3" wide and 3/4" to 1" thick behind eachframe rail ahead of the square tube then pull past straight starting small at like 1/8" first attempt until you get to stay straight with out the tubing attached? This will make it easier to weld up. When possible I like weld things together in a relaxed state. Be careful if the cross member is rusted or week it might crack. The one on my car was cracked and rusty. Good luck.
  9. I replaced mine with one salvaged from another car. At that time it was not reproduced. I was lucky to find a good one. Most of them I looked at had damage or rust.
  10. When ford changed to retractable rear seat belts they changed the inner wheelhouse and the floor to make room for the retractor. The wheelhouse was narrowed in the front. I purchased both inner wheelhouses from dynacorn a couple years ago when I bought the floor. I unpacked the RH at that time and seen it was the early style fixed seat belt version. This weekend I unpacked the LH wheelhouse to discover it is the later retractable style. As you can see by the pics this will definately effect the max tire width. Does anyone know if another company sells the wider early style LH wheelhouse?
  11. I used drill bits to check the size of the holes in the tail light panel on my 73. I would say the holes should be 17/64". 1/4" is loose 17/64" pushes the paint out of the hole. I took a couple more pictures showing where the spot welds are. On the bottom each side has two welds and the top has one on each side.
  12. Here are some pictures. The tape measure starts at 1" not 0". You can see where the spot welds are drilled out. Hope this helps. I can get some measurements on the back panel holes from my 73 that are likely the same size. I will post that later.
  13. The replacement floor and full trunk floor along with the replacement wheelhouse are stamped differently than my 73. The floor is flat without the rise and no hole or welded nut for the seatbelt. The wheelhouse is wider in the front. In the picture above and to the left of the yellow sticker you can see the gap between the original wheelhouse and the replacement floor. Did Dynacorn copy these parts from a 71 or 72? If the earlier cars are different how did they attach the seatbelt? If the early ones are different could someone post a picture?
  14. I seen the post. Very nice work. I'm looking for the easy way out. If can just use a flat piece under the floor to weld the seatbelt nut to it will save me some time.
  15. Thanks for the tips on the Por15. I welded some 16 gauge stiffeners to the inside of the frame rails to help reinforce the welded areas. When I finish cleaning up the welds I will brush on the por15 and use weld thru primer on the flange before I weld in the trunk floor. The replacement floor and wheelhouse are different around the inner wheelhouse where the seatbelt nut fastens to the floor. Is this a model year difference? The next picture is the bottom side showing the rise. Has anyone eliminated this rise and put the seatbelt nut level with the replacement floor?
  16. Before I weld the trunk floor in I want to coat the inside of the frame rails. What would be a good product to use???
  17. Frame rails are welded back together. I still have to fit the torque boxes to the rockers and weld some reinforcements to the inside.
  18. Mocking up the rails to the trunk floor shows a gap between the rail sections on one side and an overlap on the other. This is what I expected. Instead of making the center sections RH & LH specific they compromised and used the same stamping for both sides. The center sections are missing a bend. There is a gap where the front of the inner wheelhouse meets the floor. The replacement wheelhouses have the same angle as the replacement floor. Floor setting in place.
  19. I have both rails cut apart at the weld seams. Poor quality parts. It would have saved a lot of work if they would have come in three pieces. Took about 5 hours to cut them apart and clean up the welds. I had two bushings made for the rear spring perches at this point I should only have to replace the RH side.
  20. The frame rails came from NPD I have had them for several years. They make them in three pieces then weld them together. The torque boxes had to be trimmed back at the rear lower corners where they meet the rocker panels. The frame table has the correct mounting points for the front and rear spring perches. The angles at the weld seams are off as well as the rear spring perch on the RH rail is welded in at an angle. Before I removed the floor I scribed a line on the wheel houses to mark the location of the original floor for reference. Yesterday I cut the RH rail apart at the welds and removed pipe used as the rear spring perch. I ruined the pipe getting it out so I will have to have one made unless someone knows of a source to purchase one. I plan to set the floor in place then fit the rails to floor and the shock mount since i know the original location of the floor. Adding the exhaust weld nuts if a good suggestion.
  21. Working at fitting the frame rails. The angles are not good at the welded seams and they are about a quarter inch to long at the spring perches. The distance between the rails at the shock mount cross member location is about 2" too wide.
  22. Made some progress. upload image upload photo on net
  23. How is the finish on the crank journals? Friend of mine had 50 miles on a rebuilt engine when it started losing oil pressure. The machine shop put to rough of a finish on the crank when they ground it causing a similar failure to what you are describing.
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