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lduke12

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Everything posted by lduke12

  1. cazsper, I put a 1970 429 (385 series same as a 460) that has the 521 stroker kit, in my 73 Mach 1 and im running the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake with a Holley 4150 carb, and a K&N drop base air cleaner that has a 3" height and my stock mach 1 hood clears just fine. But i do not have the air dam equipment that mounts to the underside of my hood either. Hope this helps.
  2. I have been talking to Cazper about my build for a couple days now. I did a all forged Scat 521 stroker assembly with Comp cams roller cam retrofit kit. Still running stock heads that had guide plates installed with beehive springs, otherwise stock 1970 heads, as well as stock 2:75-1 open rear gearing, and this thing is sooo much fun to drive on the street. When i roll in i get a lot of oohs and aahhs, and the torque this thing puts down is fun to showboat. I am also running the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake manifold with Holley 4150 HP 1000CFM carb using a 3" tall drop base K&N open top air cleaner and it all fits under the stock NASA hood. Using Crites long tube headers, and 3 1/2" straight pipe to the mufflers. My intro thread has a engine build list on page 5 as linked here. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-intro-and-build-thread?page=5 The first car to run in this video is my 521 powered Mach 1. It put down 424 HP @ 531 Ft Lbs of torque and thats at the wheels. I cant wait to upgrade the rear end and put the aluminum trick flow heads on this thing. [video=youtube] [video=youtube]
  3. Yeah, I had purchased the Crites full length headers pretty early then after having them for a while started seeing people posting how low they hang and hitting them on stuff. All in all I am very happy with the Crites headers. I purchased all new front suspension and steering and got the progressive big block springs brand new and after driving my setup since February I think I have scraped my v-band clamps 1 or 2 times going over a pretty big speed bump.
  4. All part #'s searchable on Summit Racing's website. 1970 Thunder jet 429 Long Block W/DOVE HEADS 1-47606BI - Scat Engine Rotating Assemblies 521 Stoker Kit CCA-34-432-9 - COMP RETRO FIT ROLLER CAM (Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 282/288, Lift .521/.532) CCA-1411-16 - COMP ROLLER TIP RCKRS 1.72 CCA-4600-16 - COMP ROCKER ARM NUTS CCA-795-16 - COMP STEEL RETAINERS 10D BEEHIVE CCA-614-16 - COMP VALVE LOCKS 10D CCA-4838-8 - COMP GUIDE PLATES CCA-8934-16 - COMP ROLLER LIFTERS CCA-7983-16 - COMP PUSHRODS CTR-15-750 - OIL PAN CTR-15-751 - PICK UP MEL-M84EHVS OIL PUMP HI-VOL 429/460 FMS-M-6527-C311 ROCKERARM STUDS SCE-035443 - FORD 460 4.440x.032 HEAD GASKETS ARP-154-7903 - BBF OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT CVS-BOP64CL - FUEL BLOCK OFF PLATE PIO-872017 - CRANK BALANCER EDL-8866 - WATER PUMP FORD 429/460 VICTOR EDL-7566 - PERFORMER RPM AIR GAP INTAKE MANIFOLD MSD-8580 - FORD DIST 351C/M 400 429 460 MSD-8202 - BLASTER 2 COIL/MSD APPLICATION MOR-73674 - WIRE SET DUI-84859 - THEMOSTAT HOUSING MOR-63440 - RESTRICTORS WATER OUTLET TCI-411200 - STREETFIGHTER C6TRANSMISSION HUP-35-20 - TORQUE CONVERTER 2000 STALL HUU-1745000 - HURST LINE LOCK SYSTEM HUU-3160009 - HURST QUARTER STICK SHIFTER CRITES LONG TUBE HEADERS WITH 3 1/2" EXHAUST BACK TO MUFFLERS HLY-0-80514-1 - Holley 4150HP 1000cfm Carb JETTED WAY DOWN AT DYNO TUNE MSD-6425 - MSD 6AL Ignition box PWM-9405 - Power Master Mini Starter Had a brand new 1350 driveline custom made for the car, and at the moment still have the stock open rear with 2.75:1 gears I would have loved to run the engine on a dyno by itself but to save money the machine shop just put the long block together and did the machine work to the heads, and I brought it home in pieces and put it together myself as well as putting it into the car all in my garage. You can see my entire build thread from start to finish at this link. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-intro-and-build-thread I have alot of pictures on my thread there. I plan on in the future upgrading to trick flow bare aluminum heads PowerPort® 325, take all my current hardware except for the valves and transfer them to these new heads with new valves, then go about 2 cam sizes up in size during the head swap. Then i plan on upgrading to the expensive comp full roller rockers instead of my cast roller tips i have now. I am also trying to find a good deal on a 31 spline posi trak lock pumpkin with 3:50 gears. My buddy in the Camaro is the one who helped me build this engine and he said after the dyno runs that he was blown away i put out what i did with those stock cast iron DOVE heads, and thinks that doing the head upgrade will really wake my 521 up. So i wonder what your setup will do at the tire on the dyno.
  5. This is power and torque @ the flywheel correct? Not at the Tire? Follow this link to my 521 Dyno results listing that only got 1 comment since I posted it. Mine is at the tires, and the top green dyno results. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-finally-the-dyno
  6. Welcome from Bakersfield Cali. I love to hear when more folks are throwing the 385 series engines into our big body Mustangs.
  7. Finally got my 73 Mach 1 with the fresh 521 to the Dyno today with my car group. After changing jets on the Dyno 3 times i gained 50 horses just sitting there. My build is for monstrous Torque, but due to my gearing and torque converter, plus stock valves and cast iron heads with beehive springs and roller tip rockers the 68 Camaro sporting the 502 still beat me but he has been fine tuning his setup for quite some time. [video=youtube]
  8. Here is my list that I can remember im sure there is more. Since im from Bakersfield CA Seen KoRn, Adema, and Orgy numerous times. Soulfly - many times Fear Factory - many times and met most the band Slipknot Rob Zombie Static X - Many Times RIP Wayne Static Black Sabbath Mushroomhead - many times Dope Chimaira Sepultura Pantera Ill Nino A Day to Remember Deftones Disturbed Devildriver Mudvayne Powerman 5000 Sevendust Soil Blink 182 Garbage Was at the 2007 Ozzfest and 1 of the Vans Warped tours so between those two events there are a ton of other bands.
  9. So Rocket366, you didn't have to remove anything else from the dash to remove the A/C Heater box, that whole thing came out from under the dash? Or did you have to remove the whole dash itself to get it out?
  10. I purchased a Scat forged rotating assembly that came with Pistons, rods, and crank, and im running a Comp Cams roller retrofit fit system with roller lifters & rockers on beehive springs and Comp push rods and timing set. If you go to page 5 of my intro and build thread i have a almost finished parts list i used on the engine. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-intro-and-build-thread
  11. Here is my 521 stroker based off a 429 block in my 73. I'm using the RPM Air Gap manifold with the Holley 4150 and K&N 3"x14" air cleaner that is around 1 1/4" drop base. I have about 1/2" clearance from the hood. I had bought a 1" TrickFlow spacer but was not able to use it.
  12. Was looking around the site and wasn't able to find any specifics regarding the 1973's steering box. I need to know what the pressure side inlet male hose size is. I am running a Saginaw pump and we Frankenstien'ed two different hoses together to work for now, but its not really working. So has anyone custom made or fit up their own fittings from the gear box to the Saginaw pump? Or made the pressure port a common male fitting? If anyone has any information it would be greatly appreciated.
  13. Thanks guys. This afternoon we have three tests we are going to run, since i have two 8580 Distributors, we are going to swap the internals to the one in the car after checking resistance to the MSD specs as well as on the box. We have a donor MSD box that we are going to try, and if all that don't work im just going to buy a Dura spark dizzy and ditch the MSD box altogether.
  14. Hey Qcode351mach, yes when the car is idling and its stumbling, when you pull the linkage to give it more gas the carb still spits fuel down the carbs throat just fine, and when you remove the bowl sites the fuel is right at the bottom of the holes. And also as stated no matter what there is always 7 psi on the system whether its stumbling and shutting off or dead. As far as where the fuel pump is, Pump is on passenger side, the 100 micron filter is right off the tank on the driver side using 1/2" tubing all the way up to the front. At the front of the car the 1/2" line runs up the passenger side of the car through a bulkhead in the firewall to a Aeromotive pressure regulator. Then it runs straight around the valve cover and into the carb fuel log. As far as the MSD box, as pictured its mounted to the radiator support in between the grill and the A/C condenser. And the 1 black wire connected to the negative terminal of my battery is the direct ground for the MSD Box.
  15. Well thought everything was good after last nights run. We noticed after removing the spark plugs that cylinder 5 & 6 were perfectly clean when all the others looked pretty normal, so it was misfiring those two cylinders. Turned and looked at the distributor cap with the wires attached and realized we had wire 5 plugged into 6, and wire 6 plugged into 5. But today i took my brother for a ride in her and she died while driving down the road again. Waited a couple minutes then fired right up and made it to my neighbor hood where started to stumble and run real crappy before dying again just like in my video. Going to replace the ignition switch tomorrow, and if that don't work i got to find a reputable shop that knows how to work on a highly modified car to figure out the problem because im about done with it. Because now im going to miss 2 more nights of awesome Central California cruising in Bakersfield with my buddies due to a car that decides when it wants to run. In the meantime i got my hood badges on and my Halo's wired up.
  16. Thanks all. I got the Mustang home last night from the exhaust shop with my entire new 3 1/2" system. Me and my buddy were in the garage afterwards till late and went over everything checking the rocker arms, carb everything. I wont go into detail about what we discovered but i happened to look at something we had taken off the car and "DING" light bulb oh crap this simple tiny little thing wasn't done just right. So a quick adjustment and throw everything back together and she is running like a bat out of hell. Thanks again all for all your replies and words of help but she is running excellent now.
  17. Thanks for all the replies guys. To answer your question 71mach1lady yes all the original fuel lines were removed from the car and brand new 1/2" line was routes along the passenger side of the car. There is no return line and the tank just has the stock vent hose on the top. For Finmach when we park at the has station and PPP the hood we are not touching anything under the hood except we start to rev it a bit and it starts the rough idle and dies. And yes at the beginning of the video it is popping and backfiring bad, but we were thinking it was because of left over fuel sitting in the headers from the last time it crapped out. As mentioned I am using ceramic coated Crites headers and only the 2" primaries are installed during this video, the collectors are not even on yet. At first we thought my fuel pump was over pressuring my regulator and flooding the carb, and after 2 regulators not being able to lower the pressure below 14 pounds my buddy's Aeromotive is finally keeping the pressure right at 7 steadily. When the car starts to run rough and shut off the pressure doesn't change at all and we have two different pressure gauges one at the regulator and one on the fuel log on the carb. I am going to have the car towed to the exhaust shop today to get the pipes on because my buddies neighbors have been chewing him out every time we start the car, and then I we can fiddle around some more to figure out the problem.
  18. So im about to pull my hair out. This is my 521 stroker motor (1970 429) Has Edel RPM air gap, Holley 4150 1000cfm, Holley Black fuel pump with Aeromotive regulator. MSD 8580 Pro Billet Ready to run distributor with 6AL Ignition box and Blaster 2 coil. No tach hooked up. So the car fires right up, runs nice and drives but once you get so far down the road or after so long of time, you get what happens in the video at exactly 3:55 minutes. Once it kills itself if you let it sit for a couple minutes it usually starts right back up no issue and will drive down the road again till it kills itself again sitting at a stop light or it will just shut off while driving down the road. At the moment in this video it is open header with 2" Primaries with no collecters. Been trying to get it to run without leaving me stranded so i can get it to the exhaust shop. Please can someone tell me what they think is causing this, any one else running the 429's with all MSD electronics. Otherwise yes everyone see's and feels me coming down the road and get lots of people stopping to ask "What year is that" [video=youtube]
  19. I currently carry a Beretta PX4 Storm 3" in 40S&W. Still trying to practice with it and get used to hitting a target with it. Otherwise my favorite gun that i can hit any target with is a full size PX4 Storm in 40 as well. I also have a tiny Ruger LC9 single stack in 9mm if the weight gets to me.
  20. After picking up my 429 thunder jet motor almost two years ago now. Today she fired in her new home as a fresh 521 stroker. [video=youtube]
  21. Yeah not sure either, i am running 3.5" for my 521 stroker so i purchased 4 45degree mandrel elbows from summit, plus two 4' long straight pipes into 3.5" flowmasters and then dumps straight to the ground after that.
  22. I just got my 429 put in and I just played it safe and bought the entire mount system from Crites. Went in easier than it was to pull the 351 out lol.
  23. So i have been trying to look into this for some time. I have seen mention of it but cant find any definitive proof. I have a 73 Mach, that has the ugly stock rear bumper guards on it with black rubber stripping. I really like how the 71-72's are fit tighter to the body of the car, and hate how the 73 had to get that 2-3 inch outward extension and then they put the poly filler on each corner. Looking at catalogs they all show that their replacement rear chrome bumpers are the same part number for 71-73, but they have different mounting brackets. Has anyone got a write up or know how the 71-72 mounting brackets can be mounted to a 73 to achieve the same flush bumper install, or if its even possible. Its driving me nuts. I would like to think all that has to happen is to purchase a new rear bumper, the 71-72 brackets and bolts, and then remove the Urethane fillers and it would look the same. Anyone done this? :(
  24. Welcome from Bakersfield CA. As others are going to say, pictures are awesome here lol :P
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