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Danno

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About Danno

  • Birthday December 21

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1972 Fastback, Sportsroof

Location

  • Location
    Mount Prospect Illinios
  • Region
    Central

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

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Community Answers

  1. Found it, works like a charm............Thanks
  2. Thanks, I'll check it out today...........
  3. I don't think I have a TPS. Would going to the windshield wiper motor power wire be ok? The wire through the boot idea is good too, except I'm not a good solderer, LOL! I know my limits............
  4. Wiring the electric choke to my Motor craft 2100. I WAS going to go to the "S" terminal on the alternator like I did on my '66, but the lug is a push on type with a covered connector, so that won't work, and I don't really want to start splicing any wires into the charging system, ( followed the white wire down to the vr harness at the vr connector white wire). Thinking of "maybe" going to my temp plug on the intake manifold? Not too sure if I want to run a wire from the choke to the fuse block as I've seen suggested, but that'd be do able I guess. I'm also wondering if 14 guage wire is ok? Thanks.......
  5. Thanks, that's probably the direction I'll go too...........
  6. 4 blade fan (17") $20 C-4 rear trans mount $20 289-302 exhaust manifolds with the choke heat tube $100 2 outer tie rod ends (ES387L) $25 289-302 dip stick and tube $10
  7. Just received the 2 top and 2 side trim pieces and trying to find out what color they should be. Do the 2 that go across the top in front of the package tray get painted to match the tray or seats? Also the filler trim on each side of the seat back, should it match the seats?
  8. I have a Motor craft 2100 carb that I just received an electric choke for, but it only has one very short wire to connect it to a 12 volt source. On my '66 289 I hooked it to the "s" terminal on the alternator, but this wire is way too short to reach it. I am guessing I could just make my own pigtail to go to the alternator, does that sound workable?
  9. Just reinstalled my rebuilt 2100 carb and installed a new WIX screw in filter. I seem to have a very slight seep from the parting surfaces where it screws in. I know that there should be NO gas leaking, but before I over tighten and strip something out, I am wondering if there is a gasket or seal needed between the filter and the bowl. I don't ever remember there being one there, but one site showed a screw in filter for a 2150 with a gasket/seal. I'm going to remove the filter and look at the threads. I was getting small tightening movement, but don't want to strip something. There is a very slight clearance between the bowl and filter. Should it be flush?
  10. Thanks for your help! The voltage checks were within limits so I removed the small ground wire from inside the distributor and cleaned both ends with emery cloth as well as the attach areas inside the distributor, also at this time the "old" condenser was installed. I turned the key and it started right up like it never had a problem. Fast forward to this morning. Before I tried to start it, I reinstalled the "new" condenser. I tried to start it and it just cranked and cranked, no start, WTF????? I then reinstalled the "old" condenser, and it fired right up. I was even able to go for a short confidence drive for about 10 minutes, everything seems fine now. The only problem I had was that it smoked pretty much, hoping that's just from the many many start attempts over the last few months Thanks again for your help!!
  11. How do I check for voltage at the points?, What should I see there?
  12. Ok, I think I still have the old condenser somewhere, I'll give that a shot......thanks
  13. Yes, I checked for spark from the coil lead to the block and a spark is present. although it's not as strong as the spark at the points. There is evidence of the rotor "spring" making contact with the button on the cap too. I checked continuity from the "spring" to the arm that contacts the cylinder contacts in the cap, and that was good. I still have the old cap, maybe I'll give that a try too, along with checking continuity from one end of the coil wire to the button inside the cap with the wire attached to the cap. The ground wire inside the distributor is tight, and I verified that it was grounded with a test light.
  14. Did a total parts replacement , plugs, points, rotor, condenser, wires, and cap. The car ran fine for several weeks after this. All i needed to do was turn the key standing outside the car and it would immediately start. I drove it and it ran great. One day I had it idling and I walked away from it, when I came back it had died. Trying to restart, it sounded like the timing was way off and it would hardly run, finally it wouldn't start at all, but crank like it was missing real bad. I tried all combinations of new and old points and condenser, and even borrowed a coil from a friend and still nothing. We then took the top off the carb ( 2 barrel), and sucked all the old gas out and filled the bowl with "good" gas, put it all back together and it started up immediately, like there was never any problem. For a week or so I would just start it and let it run and shut it off, then I got brave and tried to drive it. It died 1/2 block from my house and I limped home popping and farting ( the car, LOL). Back to square 1 now. I have 5 # fuel pressure and a "professionally" rebuilt carb, and the same tune up parts from before. Now it cranks strong and even, I'm getting gas in the carb, (I even tried pouring gas in the carb and using starting fluid) and still no start. Checking further I do have spark from the coil and a good spark at the points, but nothing to the plugs, I tried several cylinders, and no spark. I know this is probably a no brainer, but what am I missing? This was so intermittant, running rough, then not, I must be missing something basic...........IDEAS????
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