Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Danno

  1. Just reinstalled my rebuilt 2100 carb and installed a new WIX screw in filter. I seem to have a very slight seep from the parting surfaces where it screws in. I know that there should be NO gas leaking, but before I over tighten and strip something out, I am wondering if there is a gasket or seal needed between the filter and the bowl. I don't ever remember there being one there, but one site showed a screw in filter for a 2150 with a gasket/seal. I'm going to remove the filter and look at the threads. I was getting small tightening movement, but don't want to strip something. There is a very slight clearance between the bowl and filter. Should it be flush?
  2. Just got the 4 pieces of trim for a fastback no fold down rear seat. Before I fight taking the rear seat bottom and back out, do they mate up with the trunk divider/rear seat back easily, also what color should they be? My seats are white and my package tray and sail panels are black. Thanks...
  3. Thanks for your help! The voltage checks were within limits so I removed the small ground wire from inside the distributor and cleaned both ends with emery cloth as well as the attach areas inside the distributor, also at this time the "old" condenser was installed. I turned the key and it started right up like it never had a problem. Fast forward to this morning. Before I tried to start it, I reinstalled the "new" condenser. I tried to start it and it just cranked and cranked, no start, WTF????? I then reinstalled the "old" condenser, and it fired right up. I was even able to go for a short confidence drive for about 10 minutes, everything seems fine now. The only problem I had was that it smoked pretty much, hoping that's just from the many many start attempts over the last few months Thanks again for your help!!
  4. How do I check for voltage at the points?, What should I see there?
  5. Ok, I think I still have the old condenser somewhere, I'll give that a shot......thanks
  6. Yes, I checked for spark from the coil lead to the block and a spark is present. although it's not as strong as the spark at the points. There is evidence of the rotor "spring" making contact with the button on the cap too. I checked continuity from the "spring" to the arm that contacts the cylinder contacts in the cap, and that was good. I still have the old cap, maybe I'll give that a try too, along with checking continuity from one end of the coil wire to the button inside the cap with the wire attached to the cap. The ground wire inside the distributor is tight, and I verified that it was grounded with a test light.
  7. Did a total parts replacement , plugs, points, rotor, condenser, wires, and cap. The car ran fine for several weeks after this. All i needed to do was turn the key standing outside the car and it would immediately start. I drove it and it ran great. One day I had it idling and I walked away from it, when I came back it had died. Trying to restart, it sounded like the timing was way off and it would hardly run, finally it wouldn't start at all, but crank like it was missing real bad. I tried all combinations of new and old points and condenser, and even borrowed a coil from a friend and still nothing. We then took the top off the carb ( 2 barrel), and sucked all the old gas out and filled the bowl with "good" gas, put it all back together and it started up immediately, like there was never any problem. For a week or so I would just start it and let it run and shut it off, then I got brave and tried to drive it. It died 1/2 block from my house and I limped home popping and farting ( the car, LOL). Back to square 1 now. I have 5 # fuel pressure and a "professionally" rebuilt carb, and the same tune up parts from before. Now it cranks strong and even, I'm getting gas in the carb, (I even tried pouring gas in the carb and using starting fluid) and still no start. Checking further I do have spark from the coil and a good spark at the points, but nothing to the plugs, I tried several cylinders, and no spark. I know this is probably a no brainer, but what am I missing? This was so intermittant, running rough, then not, I must be missing something basic...........IDEAS????
  8. Just got my carb back from a "professional" rebuilding service, and while reinstalling it found that the vacuum line for the choke pulloff is missing. I've looked all over the entire rear right side of the engine bay and carb and cannot find it. If I knew where the other end was attached, that'd be a great help. Does anyone have a diagram? Where does the line for #1 go to?
  9. I rechecked and cranked a little longer and got 5 psi. Should I crank it for 20 seconds and check quantity?
  10. What's good fuel pressure for a 302 with a 2 barrel and a mechanical fuel pump? Still chasing the no start problem, and I'm getting a steady 4#.
  11. Looking for "A" pillar covers for a '72 fastback............
  12. I'll check that, but being as it does run normally I'm not sure that's a problem. At this point I'm ready to try anything short of throwing in the towel and taking it to my local "guy" who is honest and does all the heavy work on our cars.
  13. Everything is new: points, plugs condenser, wires, cap and rotor, accelerator pump works, filter is clear, gas flow good out of the fuel line, and it still won't start after it sits a while. Last week I put a set of $20 Echlin (sp?) points because I was using my old points at the time for troubleshooting. For the record, it ran good temporarily with the old points during troubleshooting too whenever it decided to cooperate. After I installed and adjusted the new points, I started it immediately and it ran great for about 2-3 minutes, then died, like it was running out of gas. I was able to get it restarted and quickly started revving the motor at the carb manually when it would start to die. I had to do this several times until it idled ok on it's own. I would then rev it at high rpms and let it settle back down to idle, and "rinse and repeat" several times. It idled that day for about a half hour with no problems, even after shutting it off and restarting it. Fast forward to just now, where I just went out and tried starting it and the same thing, popping and farting and no start. I probably flooded it trying to start it this time, I plan on bypassing the tank tomorrow and running good gas from a line directly into the pump, although I'm getting a feeling it's a problem somewhere in the carb. I have been looking at a new motor craft 2100 anyway because that's what I have in there now. I'm pretty sure it's a fuel problem, either bad fuel (doubtful, because it does run good when it finally starts), or something in the carb that, after the car sits a while, decides to not function.........IDEAS???????
  14. Did a total ignition system tune up a month or so ago, everything but the distributor and coil, all parts were from ROCKAUTO. The car ran great after the parts installed so took it out on the tollway and blew the snot out of it, no problems. A week later it was idling in the driveway and it died. Trying to restart, it sounded like it was totally out of time. It would start, but pop and fart and die. Troubleshooting done: Fuel pump ok, fuel filter clear, spark from coil good, spark from plugs good, coil resistance good, swapped a to a good known coil and the old condenser for s**ts and grins, no help. Finally reinstalled old points and removed top of carb and sucked the old gas out of the bowl and refilled with my lawn mower gas, and it fired right up. Put everything back together and restarted numerous times and it fired up immediately each time and idled for a while. Up to this point I had not driven it, just idled it, so I figured I'd take t out to get my confidence back. I got a block from home and it died and restarts were like before, popping and farting. I limped back home and put some octane booster in the tank ( 3/4 full) and tried a restart, same problem. I still have the old points in there and plan on Echlin points as my next dart. Ideas??? It ran great before and now this !!!!!!!!!!!!!
  15. Update: Swapped coils, no help, checked timing marks and distributor were within limits had good spark anywhere I was supposed to, took the top off the carb, and sucked all the gas out of the bowl and filled it with fresh gas, and co-incidently also removed the new points and put the old ones back, turned the key, and it immediately started. Discovered also that the plastic block on the points where the wires hook up to would not stay on the points where it was supposed to and kept popping up off where it was supposed to attached. Not sure about the bad gas, but I may get some octane booster just in case, also a new set of points. Thanks for all the inputs. after all the trouble shooting, it was something as basic as this?????? I won't take all the credit, I have a friend that's head and shoulders above my car knowledge He was a great help without a doubt. He refers to my car talent as "tinker and wax', LOL!!
  16. No start update: Rechecked everything AGAIN, coil resistance was within limits, the battery and starter are good, I have fuel to the carb and the filter is free, the rotor rotates, I have spark from the coil, and I have spark when checking the #1 plug grounded to the engine, I even checked the plug wire routing, it's good. What could cause a smooth running, idling engine to just quit, then when a restart is attempted, it sputters and won't idle at all? This Saturday, with assistance, I'm going to check TDC on #1 and see if the timing chain skipped. I think the crank bolt is 15/16th's"? What else is left?
  17. Plugged my vacuum with short plugged lines hooked up to the vacuum "tree" on the intake manifold and no change. My next step is going to be removing a valve cover and see if my rocker arms are rockin'. Hope it's not the timing chain I was going to replace the new points with the old ones, but while I was bumping the engine to get on the high lobe, I saw a very strong white spark at the points, so I'm assuming that's good to that point? I've already tried it with the old condenser and cap installed, no change. Everything is back together now with the new ignition parts. This is really bugging me, because it was running so well, then 'BOOM", this problem. Thanks for your input.......... It's like a gremlin got into my garage over night and messed with something, LOL!
  18. Just checked the coil with a multimeter, if I'm reading it correctly I'm getting 1.6 ohms when checking between the posts of the coil, and 9100 ohms when checking between the + post and the large center female receptical. The "online" info I read says .4-2 ohms for the posts and 6000 to 15000 between the+ post and large female receptical on the coil The indications I have when attempting a start are a good strong cranking sound, and it sputters sounds like it wants to start but if it starts, it runs very rough and will die if I let off the gas. Like i said it ran great before I hooked that old MILTON meter to the wrong post on the coil, but it was on the - post of the battery, that's why I thought I may have damaged the coil, and why I checked it today. I'm up for any suggestions.
  19. The reason I ask is because "someone" hooked up a tach dwell meter ( an old "MILTON" analog brand) to the wrong post, +, on the coil checking to both see if the meter worked and what the dwell was. That was the last time the car ran right. Now I have all the indications of a bad coil, extremely hard starting, very rough idle that wont stay idling......... FYI, I had just replaced the points, condenser, rotor, wires, plugs and cap, and the car started after barely touching the key and ran great, then "someone" didn't want to leave well enough alone, now this!
  20. Could a coil be damaged by hooking a tach dwell meter up to the wrong post on the coil? ("Asking for a friend', LOL)
  21. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor cap points and condenser. Points set at .017. The car started always started immediately every time for about a week after all these parts replaced. I even took it out on the highway to "clean it out". I bought some oil additive today and added it to the engine and started it per the instructions to let it idle for 5 minutes. I left it running, but when I came back, it had died. Numerous attempted restarts and it sounds like the distributor in 180 out, or there's a massive vacuum leak. It started normally for the 5 minute idle, but now it barely runs. Checked the point gap numerous times and it's .017, swapped out the old condenser, no help. I tweaked the distributor, no help ( it's back in the original position, now) any ideas? I never revved the motor, so I don't think the timing chain skipped, although, when I increase the rpms, it smooths out a little, but dies when it goes back to idle. Maybe a carb problem, but I never touched the mixture screw ( 2 bbl).
  22. Is this what you're looking for? I have a left one D1Z-13064-AB
  • Create New...