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Jarturin last won the day on August 4 2014

Jarturin had the most liked content!

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    73 302 coupe
    68 289 coupe for sale


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  1. Hi, which of these is right latch for 71-73. I installed the one with the hump, but failed very soon, perhaps was not the correct one. Happy New Year! Latches.pdf
  2. Ok, thanks midlife, found the colored wires behind the glove box, but the circuit breaker does not exist, was replaced by a kind of fuse box probably by previous owner, and in bad shape, for sure is the reason for my problem. I was always looking around the fuse box, my mistake. Great!
  3. Thanks Midlife, my problem is that I have no power in the stop switch or the hazard flasher, so need to check the circuit breaker but do not know where is it and how it looks like. Appreciate any other help.
  4. Gents, I need to locate and check if is or is not working, the circuit braker in between lines 37Y and 10, lines feeding emergency flasher and also stop lamp switch, that can be seen at wiring diagram coordinate C-35. How it looks like? I know glass fuses but no these. I can see both cables LG-R H are entering a bound of wires but cannot see where they are coming from. Thanks in advance.
  5. Can somebody recommend how to reach this flasher to replace it. I can see it is hidden in the upper part of console, between center and glove box. Let me add that already took out the turn signal flasher, but this one is near the center. Is better to take out the radio or the top cover?
  6. Hi There must be a way to keep fuel in the line close to the pump, and a filter full of gas. Seems that in this case fuel is returning to the tank after many days in the garage, and line gets dry, and then fuel pump can not pump fuel to carb. Perhaps a check valve is required? or there is a lost of seal, then air enters the line and allows fuel flowing back? may be somebody has experience to avoid this? :huh: James My baby
  7. Thanks all for valued comments, specially thanks to David from Carolina_Mountains, will check if oil pump could habe been clogged. The broken plastic line comes with standard mechanical gauges, and my mechanic says have seen these working well since many many years. He says may be oil temperature went extremely hot for some unknown reason or pressure went wrong, or a combination causing the burst, so will check David's theory. or simply the plastic lines today are not as strong as in the past. For sure next added pressure or temp gauge will be electric!! Will tell more later....
  8. Devil put its tail in my cylinders... Devil put its tail in my cylinders... After one hour cruising in my 73 hardtop, with 302 engine upgraded 300 miles back with a top end engine kit for 300 HP, hearing loud music and talking to angels, suddenly music changed to an engine noise, and two seconds later engine stopped. This was my second rally after the upgrade. Finding was that all oil had gone through the teared tubing to the oil pressure gauge, tubing that was ripped, just out of the connecting fitting tip, and also ripped some 5 inches after, see photos . Radiator was expelling boiling water through the cap bypass, and level was good as could see later. If there were idiot lights on, I could not tell, did not look there. Result, after opening the engine: two or three pistons with signs of brushing the cylinders. Will need to replace all pistons, rectify all cylinder walls (030), put new rings, new metal bearings, and polish crankshaft, at least. So far inspection of cylinder heads has showed no damages there. Why this oil tubing failed? See photos attached. No rubbing in that area...Seems tubing ripped by hot temperature. Why oil heated that much? I checked with a thermometer the thermostat operation and it works/open normal at 83-85ºC (183ºF). Cruising speed was between 100 to 120 kph (69 mph), so lots of air, ambient air temperature was around 30ªC (86ªF), not too much, engine rpms were around 3000 (have a T-5 transmission), clutch fan has only 60 miles, and was checked Ok after installation. It shows today to be clean, no leaks, spins with some force, as should be, so I discard it. Now checking the radiator, may be water tubes are partially plugged, will see after opening it. The air passages look clean. What else to check? What can be possible causes? Please your comments. Thanks
  9. Thanks Mike and MJLan, note that the problema started after replacing differential and gear/pinion. Before this it was running good, so seems to me there is no reeason to look inside the T5. The vibration appears when I dis-engage the clutch or reléase the gas pedal, and goes away when accelerating. This means according other people opinions that pinion needs to be moved up, to get in line with the yoke angle within 1º, that is what I did, Now planning new angle measurements and making some serious vibration analysis and play some detective work. Regards
  10. Dear friends As part of restoration to a 73 coupe, put Yukon new ring gear (8.5") and pinion (1.375"), raising ratio from 3.1 to 4.1, and also installed a Eaton Detroit Truetrac new differential. Car has a T5 transmission, rubbers are 17", and has a Dana 44 differential axle. Also changed bearings and seals to axles and differential. Before above changes I drove the car up to 140 km/h and as far I remember vibrations were normal, were not a problem. After above changes, car started vibrating at 80 km/h, specialy when decelerating or pressing down the clutch. Measured the angles at the yoke and pinion finding yoke was pointing down and pinion was pointing up. So placed 4º wedges over the leaf springs to get a paralel situation. Vibrations decreased but not disappeared. My mechanic insisted in balancing the driveshaft, what I did. While driveshaft was in the workshop we changed the speedometer drive gear, the yoke and the rear sleeve of the T5 box because we found original yoke had wear and was rather loose. My mechanic did this without taking down and away the T5 transmission because was needed to take away all exhaust dual tubing he said. After balancing and reinstalling the drive shaft, vibrations increased again!!! Always same pattern, vibrations happened when decelerating. Checked again angles and found angles needed an extra correction so placed 6º wedges. Result was again some lower vibrations but still not normal. Now I feel vibrations are also coming from below the shifter lever and that frequency is higher than initially. Beg your comments and recommendations. Thanks!!
  11. This may help... After doing few small things in my coupe 73, when trying to start, car was dead. No door lights, nothing. Tested battery and was ok. Part of the small things was changing a fuse. Finally a friend told me to tighten the bolt fastening the fuse cage, what I did, and like magic, lights came to life again. Not sure of the reason, but did work! Problema I still have is that horn fuse is burning very often. Enjoy her!!
  12. Thanks both of you, will follow your recommendations, and update later...
  13. Hi friends I have my 73 one month now in normal operation, and want to ask the fórum if is normal to have a hard steering (or no power steering) during first 1-2 minutes after startup. Note the weather is not cold in my place. Car has normal power steering box and pump. After 2 minutes, steering is a one finger operation. Level of fluid is fine. Have not done a flush, yet. There is a very small leak from box. Thanks for coming comments.
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