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slobin3d

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Everything posted by slobin3d

  1. You said you used Plexiglas, In my VAST..... experience I would recommend using lexan, it wont yellow or get brittle over time, also lexan is more screw and cut friendly without the cracking that plex has. As far as paint you want to make sure it's something that is made for plastics, Not the Krylon stuff either, but an automotive grade for plastic bumpers, or Pactra paint thats made for lexan, is fuel proof and flexible. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=pactra&search=Go
  2. Maybe a cougar fin? or are they the same as the mustangs as well?
  3. I have a challenge for you. have a 72 coupe with the nasa hood can you make it look like this But in grabber blue, same hood and stripe, and these wheels? http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/9615859+w750+st0/mufp_0805_round_10_z+2008_silver_springs_all_ford_roundup+72_ford_mustang_coupe.jpg http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/images_temp/300300000American-Racing-Daytona-Gray.jpg
  4. I never seen the OG gone in 60 seconds, picked up Bullit, and tried to watch it, and was disappointed :( I made it through the chase I think, got to the part where he turns sharp and the wheel buckles under the car, then fell asleep. I want to watch Gi60S but I fear that it will also be a disappointment.
  5. I have no idea what brand it is, but was told that it's "vintage" and isn;t used anymore will do i'll take some better ones later, less blurry. It's the Lariat fully loaded version. A/C, Cruise, Red interior in really good shape, perfect headliner, even the brake pedal is in good shape
  6. I have a 78 Camper special in really good condition, and it's my "other" project aside from my 72/73 mustang coupe, and my Jeep. Anyway it has the rails in the bed for a vintage 5th wheel (the hoops that sit over the wheel wells) but the plate is missing. I have looked local for one to replace it, with no luck.. Is there any chance of finding one of these older style setups?
  7. My first mustang purchase was a Dynacorn Naca hood and Tail light panel, and a few smaller parts for my 72/73 coupe Most recent was a complete trunk floor and drop offs
  8. what else was in the parts box, maybe a clue to it's purpose, maybe it's part of another part
  9. Rust repair, started stripping down the trunck in my 73. Removed the tail light panel, and the PO's custom trunk floor patch......
  10. I have a 78 2wd Supercab C6 460 f-250 camper special, It has all the smog removed, and a new Holley 600 CFM 4BBL and I pull about 13 empty, and 9~10 towing
  11. I'm trying to find a way to run my Poverty caps on a 17" wheel, I want to have a modern tire and improved performance, but still keep the feel of the 15" wheels I have. I've emailed a few companies that do custom steel wheels, they'll widen my wheels but cant recenter them into a larger diameter. I've never seen a wheel that is designed to run a large center cap that is bigger then a 15. Anyone out there have any ideas?
  12. I have a set of Corbeau vx2000's with their seat bases' The have recline and the bases slide like stock and fit exactly in the stock location. I picked these because they are made for a taller, wider driver. I'm 6'6" and 265 lbs. Have the side bolsters and coutored seat needed for a snug fit but are comfortable enough for a long cruise and are still easy to get in and out of and have provisions for a 3-4-5 Point harness if desired. and seats with base IIRC was right at $1100~ http://www.corbeau.com/products/reclining_seats/vx2000/
  13. I'd love to run the AOD over the FMX, and for $100 it's a no brainer At least until I can afford to do the 6 speed swap, love the manuals. My only concern with the aod is the TV cable setup with the carb'd engine and making it all work with the ram air
  14. My 351w isn't OEM, it was rebuilt out of a 72 pickup and transplanted into my Clevland 2v car. My car as far as I know has a FMX boat anchor, hopefully soon to be replaced with a AOD out of a crown vic, until I can afford my tremec 6 speed. I have a buddy who has a 351w that he put a retarded amount of money into and put it in his 1990 Cougar, then promptly wrecked. He's selling me the motor for way less then I can build it. But it has the vic jr, I'd also considered building up the motor I have as it was just rebuilt albeit stock
  15. I'd agree that wire looks far too small. and as far as it being bare where the zip ties were, thats just because of the extra tension on the wire from the ties and not related to the wires failure.
  16. Because the 351W was never available from Ford in a 71-73 Mustang it may be hard to come by specific recommendations for manifolds that fit. Since the deck height of a windsor is taller than a cleveland (+.288?) I suspect your options will be limited due to hood clearance. If the engine is in the car it would be best to measure what the hood clearance is now and then using the manufacturer's dimensions for various intakes you are considering, calculate whether or not they will fit. Not quite true Tommy but mostly true. A few 351w engines made it into the 1971 351 2v H-code cars. There was no distinguishing which car got which motor. The factory had excess 351W engines available so they were installed into the 71 mustangs without rhyme or reason until they were used up and a steady supply of 351C engines became available. Source is Kevin Marty "Mustang by the Numbers". As far as intakes go for a 351W and ram air there are several that will work. My favorite is the Weiand Stealth. was there any modification required to make that combo or the others work?
  17. I do plan on making the hood functional, and I wasn't specifically looking at the vic Jr except it come with the edelbrock top end kit. But I knew it was taller then a OEM or even many aftermarket aluminum manifolds.
  18. I picked up a Naca hood for my 351w car and have been looking to do motor upgrades to my car and I've been looking at things like the Edelbrock top end kit, but it includes the Victor JR intake. I want to know what options I have that wont interfere with the way the hood operates.
  19. I love the look of my car with the 15's with the poverty caps, but really want a set of 17's for better handling and better tire options. I have been contemplating similar, I was looking at a Crown Vic that a local had the OEM steels with the chrome trim rings and ford centers, and it looked very nice, but they are 16" and narrow and very much so the wrong offset. Well some digging has found that dodge uses the same wheel design on the 300/challanger/charger's but in a 17" and has a wider wheel and better offset. I guess that the Crown Vic guys swap them all the time a the ford center caps work with the dodge wheels. If I could find a way to recenter 17" wheels with the 15"s I have so I could use the OEM poverty caps would be killer but no luck yet. But I love the way yours look on the car, I'm thinking on mine to paint to match the car, grabber blue and the chrome cap and trim ring to break up the blue Or all black to match the hood and side strips I'm planning
  20. I live in Helena, I'm from Missoula Via Kansas City Mo. Thanlks for all the warm welcomes
  21. I am a commercial glazier, I install windows and doors in commercial buildings, I just finished a tjmaxx complex and the state airport authority office building here and town, and will be starting a new lW firm building here in the new few days
  22. Nope. The tach circuit board is a replacement for the one on the back of the tach cluster itself (which I'm guessing you already have). The plug itself is the problem - they are different on the different clusters (which means, non-tach cluster only plugs into non-tach wiring harness... and vice versa). At the very least, you'll need to obtain a plug from a tach-equipped car, and figure out how to wire it in to the non-tach wiring harness. THAT'S the hard part I'm talking about. Hopefully, "Merlin" will have some advice for you. ;) rofl I see, if there's a wiring diagram somewhere that says what wires do what I'm all over it! I have some other electrical issues under the dash to chase as well, so maybe if its too bad I might consider swapping the entire under dash harness all together, or build a new one at the least
  23. Wiring is no problem for me, and I already have a factory tach. I see that cjponyparts sells a tach circuit board for the car, is it as easy as swapping that for the dummy light board?
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