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About ianpala

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    Mustangs are cool

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  • My Car
    1971 Mustang convertible


  • Location
    Los Angeles
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  1. Well.... put her all back together and she ran super strong. And then she didn't. It's looking like either my lifter has collapsed or my cam lobe has gone flat on my Cylinder 4 exhaust valve for no good god damn reason. the rocker came loose twice and now I'm having to screw the nut all the way down practically to get 0 lash (adjustable valves with screw in studs). Only good sign is that the lifter doesn't seem to be pumping up bc when i press the pushrod down i can push the lifter spring down easily. If it turns out being the cam... I'm probably going to look into a rebuilt bottom end so i
  2. So things I've learned.... 1) do not use coppercoat or any additional sealants when using newer Fel-pro head gaskets with permatorque coating. It caused leaks between almost all my cylinders in less than a year. 2) Fel-pro Printo-seal intake manifold gaskets SUCK. The seal around 3 out of my 8 intake ports failed. Each failure was due to a split along that blue "seal." This is an obvious weak spot. I have no idea why they would have failed. 3) Mr Gasket intake manifold gaskets aren't that great. Mine came out of the package with tears and they were essentially brittle cardb
  3. Got them out with some torch to the pedestal! Does anyone have an intake manifold gasket they swear by? I got the same type (Fel-pro 1240) and am hoping with Don's torque specs and absence of Silicone they will do better this time. Also, looks like my head Gaskets were leaking between my cylinders which is kinda bananas bc they are only about a year and a half old. Hoping it was due to erroneously using copper coat on newer blue Fel-pro Permatorque head gaskets that ask for no additional sealers. Having the heads checked out by Burbank Speed and Machine to check for warping etc... Defin
  4. Taking off the heads today. The intake manifold gasket looked cracked! Might have happen during removal though. Had some over heating and coolant loss so re-doing the head gaskets and taking the heads to a engine shop to make sure there are no cracks etc... BUT... Now I can’t get my screw in studs out to save my life. The guide plates block the head bolts. Have been trying the 2 bolt method and can’t get out a single stud. Any tips? Thinking of taking a torch to it to try to break it lose. Really don’t want to have to weld a nut to the studs. -Ian
  5. Going to order a fresh intake gasket and torque to your specs Don. Thanks Tommy, I'll try backing out my idle mix screws a half turn and see how that goes. the only rebuttal I may have to the idle circuit being too lean due to high vacuum is my idle vacuum is only 9-10 inches/mercury My throttle plates are almost fully closed, haven't needed to raise my idle speed at all. Do not have access to an extra 600cfm carb to test out. Honestly thinking of just buying another Quickfuel 600cfm, but want to turn over every stone before I do.
  6. The cam specs listed in the original post are the advertised specs. I've checked extensively for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner and plugging, so I'm confident there are none unless it's under the intake and figured it would have been done to damage during installation. I'm using an electronic distributor one of summit's. I'm also confident the idle screws are good they are around 1 1/2 turn adjusted with vacuum gauge in gear. I've had it set at 34 and 35 total timing, it made no difference to the problem described, was able to rule out timing as the issue. I can be coasting at 1700 rpm for 15
  7. I've taken apart and cleaned the carb a ton. I've shot brake cleaner through all the passages and none seem obstructed. It's definitely been running lean, I'll cruise for 5 minutes through out the trouble rpm range and shut off the engine, stop and then read the plugs and they either look new or barely white. Throttle plate is barely open, t-slot is good. I have not messed with the idle setting on the secondaries, I figured in this rpm range it would be all my primary circuit.
  8. Hey guys, Always like to start by thanking the community for its invaluable help and expertise, so thanks :) So... I haven't been able to figure out this issue since I put in my new cam and went from a 2bbl to a 4bbl carb. My engine struggles between around 1000 and 2000 RPM. Seems to clear up right at 2000 with an increase in power. Rough, chugging, low power, subtle misses. Pronounced when engine is cold or going uphill. Also a hesitation, if not a backfire out the carb upon initial acceleration, (the acceleration problem has been cleared up mostly with a red accelerator pump
  9. The backfires were before I tuned the mixture screws and timed it, so I wouldn’t count that on the list of symptoms. And yeaaaa I've been thinking I oshould tear it down and put it back together to make sure, just been procrastinating since its my daily driver. Thanks
  10. So if I'm accelerating from a stop, or cruising real slowly, from 1000-1500 RPM it does what really seems to me is like a rich blurble and runs rough. (I'm going to pull some plugs to check color) Then at 1500 or shortly after it smooths out in one immediate moment with a boost of power. I'm not flooring it or anything, this is driving around the city. I'm getting awful gas milage, something like 7 mpg. It has also died while accelerating in this range when its cold, but only once. I will check the accelerator pump, and then the secondaries, never have adjusted secondaries. I'm going to
  11. Hey guys, went out of town for a little while but finally got back to the car and figured out the surging issue. It was a bad PCV valve. Should have figured it out, but it seemed to go in and out. got it timed precisely too. 12 degrees initial, 35 degrees total. My vacuum gauge method had it set somewhere like 30degrees initial :/. Ever since I've don't this work however, a new problem arose. from 1000-1500 RPM it runs like SHIT then its like a turbo kicks in and everything seems fine again. I'm thinking due to the new cam its running rich and I have to go down an inch or
  12. Thanks guys. Right now I had the mixture screws set at 1.25 turns out each. I did this using my vaccine gauge. I took them between 1 and 2 turns before and there was no impact, however I did all of this in park while the surging is less noticeable. The idle screw is almost all the way out, barely had down to press down on the throttle bracket. My float levels are set at halfway up the viewer glass. I have my vacuum advance coming from manifold vacuum not ported from carb. Should I change that? Also I did clamp the vacuum advance hose before to see if had any affect and it didn’t. Also c
  13. I have the Summit 850306 ready to run distributor(4 years old), a brand new QuickFuel slayer 600vs 4bbl carb and an msd flamethrower 2 coil(no idea how old). I had a loose coil wire for a while, don’t know if the intermittent connection could have damaged anything over time. Any tips on a quick way to isolate one or the other as the culprit? Like I said before, it clears up significantly once the car is fully warm.
  14. Thanks that will be helpful! Glad you think the vacuum sounds normal (between 14&15) I thought I should be closer to 20. Re-did the choke and mixture screws when it was hot. Didn’t change much. Will have to dial in the timing precisely when I get back into town. From fiddling with it before, I couldn’t get that surge to go away and 300-500 rpm seemed excessive, even when it’s not fully warm. Maybe I do just need to get used to a hotter cam and it’s fuss. This my first :)
  15. ALRIGHT! Whew what a crazy couple of weeks, sorry for the radio silence, but I was tending to it all . Aside from all the mishaps along the way, I crashed my motorcycle and broke my foot. But got her all put back together now. Thanks for the advice everyone, might need a little more. For the Cam I went with: COMP CAMS Xtreme energy with a 32-242-4 with a lift of .513/520 duration 218/224 @.05 Headed everyones advice and fought the urge to go much hotter. Also got: Matching lifters Comp cams 221 double roller timing set Comp Cams magnum pushrods 7502 Break in ad
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