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johnwanzel

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Everything posted by johnwanzel

  1. Balancer: Romac. Period. Ford racing billet flywheel 10.5 clutch McCleod extreme street clutch kit. I am also using a hydraulic clutch setup. Factory magnum 500 wheels are nice to look at but not practical for what you are trying to achieve. 15” wheels are limited to bf Goodrich tires and that’s pretty much about it. Try going with a 18” wheel and your tire options are limitless.
  2. I bought mine from summit racing and it was about 400 bucks. It arrived in raw metal so I painted it corporate ford blue spray can (of course lol). It was easy to put together and getting the car on it was a little tricky but I did mine half at a time( the cart separates in the middle into two halves)
  3. I used tmi foam and upholstery front and back. I did the entire interior myself in my garage. It was tough but nothing was impossible. I used the shopping bag method over the headrests and they went on fairly easy. lOTS of stretching. I almost thought my fingers were gonna bleed. Whatever you do, before you reassemble the seats, be sure to weld up the corners of the bottom seat frame. They are notorious for cracking and if not fixed, one seat will look reclined and the other not. Quite frankly looks like shit when neither seat is in line with the other once installed in the car.
  4. I also used the American Powertrain kit. I installed mine high on the pedal and minted the master cylinder next to the brake booster. I have included pics. These pics are when I first installed the kit and since then have the engine and trans in the car. I really like the location I chose. It looks like it fits there and since the push rod is mounted high on the pedal, I will get smooth operation and I have not bottomed out the master cylinder. I will use the hood bumper idea, just haven’t gotten around to it.
  5. US Mags Bandit. 18x9 in rear. 18x8 in front. Wrapped in nitto 555s
  6. They were rubber coated originally. Most of them have deteriorated over time. They are windshield stops. Not for the hood.
  7. The size difference between the 1310,1330,-and 1350 joints are only a matter of approx 1/2” difference. I don’t think the change between the ujoints will have any impact on the shaft or the placement of the yoke in the trans.
  8. Yep. I would invest in a good quality driveshaft (should be 51” for a tko600). I am buying mine from dynotech engineering. Not cheap but balanced to 8000 rpm and all the nascar guys are using them so that’s cool too. Use the conversion u joint until you make the swap then put in the 1350 joints. The non greasable u joints are stronger than the greasable ones.
  9. Like most people have already stated, it really depends on your setup. If you are running a 3 speed automatic, you are confined to gears of no more than 3.50, 3.55, or 3.73 if you want to cruise at a decent speed down the road. If you are using a 5 or 6 speed, you can afford to go 4.11 or 4.30 without sacrificing cruisability. Also keep in mind that you need to keep the rpms in the power band of the engine while cruising. If you don’t and you are below your power band, the engine will feel like it’s “lugging” while cruising.
  10. Myself and another site member (rackerm) will be headed up on Saturday together. We will be in the swap area looking to score parts.
  11. I installed a one piece pan. It wasn’t that bad. You need to slide it through the windshield area in order to get it in the car. Once it’s prepped and fitted where you want it, use sheet metal screws to hold it in and then go around and plug weld the perimeter holes you made. I used an air punch for my holes.
  12. I have a brand new Robb mc 1/2” sending unit I will sell you. I bought it from robbmc and never used it. I changed my mind and went fuel injected. $100 plus shipping.
  13. Yes, plenty of room once you install the tank. I ran AN -6 fuel line from the pump to new 3/8 steel fuel line. I am running a holley sniper efi system so I used the vapor line as the return.
  14. I wired the pump to a fuel pump relay and inertia switch. They are both mounted to a custom bracket in the trunk.
  15. I did a walbro 255 lph in tank electric fuel pump from Tanks Inc. I also purchased their roll over valve and inline fuel filter. I liked the pump in the tank because they claim it's quieter and runs cooler since it's submerged in fuel. Install was easy. I had to take a 4" holesaw and cut the top of the tank where the original vent was. Then I had to weld in the support ring ( I started with a brand new gas tank). Once that was done, I screwed in the pump and that was it.
  16. I used the Scott Drake kit as well. I had to find the best position for the shaft and bearings. Once I found that sweet spot in the bracket, I tack welded it in place. Then fitted it again to ensure no bind on the shaft. Then disassembled it all and bead welded it to the support bracket. Works great. I did the American powertrain hydraulic clutch conversion at the same time.
  17. The alternator only supplies what is asked of it. If I am drawing 100 amps from my accessories, it will only supply that amount. 200amp is the max rating of the alternator. Not what it will constantly run at. I left myself plenty of amperage for future upgrades if needed. If not, then at least my alternator isn't being strained by the demand.
  18. Haha I went a little big on the alternator. I probably could've gotten by with a 140amp but I thought the extra didn't hurt. Plus it was same price. As far as the mechanical fan, I'm trying to go with a stock look. Factory radiator hoses, factory battery cables, etc. electric fans will take away from the look I'm going for.
  19. Here is where I'm at with mine: Scat 4340 forged crank internal balance 4 inch stroke Molnar 4340 forged offset connecting rods 6inch Diamond forged pistons (10.5:1 static compression) Trick Flow 225cc powerport heads 1.73 scorpion roller rockers Romac harmonic balancer (neutral balance) Morel/lunati link bar roller lifters Custom Comp Cam hydraulic roller cam (245/252@.050) 110 lsa Flowkooler aluminum water pump Weiand Xcellerator single plane intake (2v version) Msd small cap mechanical distributor Msd digital 6AL ignition box Moroso 8.5mm wires Holley sniper efi fuel injection Hooker comp ceramic headers Tanks inc 255lph intank electric fuel pump Tremec TKO600 w QuickTime blow proof bellhousing McCleod extreme street clutch kit Billet 157 tooth neutral flywheel American Powertrain hydraulic clutch system 9" N case 4.11 gears with Eaton posi unit with billet hats Billet Daytona pinion support Moser 31 spline forged axles Factory ram air unit Power master 200 amp alternator Power master mini starter Flex a lite 17" mechanical race fan Robert Shaw 180 thermostat TMeyer brass bypass plate I have not figured out a radiator yet I'm expecting 580ish hp and 540ish torque
  20. Yes. I replaced mine with metal rods I bought from Home Depot. They have a metal section and I bought the thinnest 3 foot sections of metal rods they had.
  21. My foam looked yellowish too but it did not affect the function or firmness of the foam. The seat upholstery is a very tight fit. You have to have patience and lots of stretching. Here's a few pics of mine and finished pic. I did it all myself.
  22. quick image upload I did mine on a body cart. I think it was the best choice for me. I did a one piece floor pan and both full quarters and a roof and the car seemed to sit very rigid on the carts
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