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Mr Mach1

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About Mr Mach1

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 429SCJ Mach1


  • Location
    New york City
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  1. I agree with the high pressure over high volume as I'm using the stock oil pan. I was also considering the retro roller cam. My thought is the roller will give get more air in & out without the extra duration. This will make more power and still give me a good idle and vacuum. Have you ever used one of these cams or have first hand knowledge ? Was thinking of using the 7/16" stud conversion with roller rockers. Leon
  2. I'm using Sealed Power moly rings in my engine. The mfg says use a 400 grit hone which I think is kinda smooth. Was thinking of using a 320 flex hone. The cylinders are clean, straight and std. so I don't see any problem using the flex hone. Opinions ? Leon
  3. Hi Leon. I know a super custome Green one here that I thought was an XB. Go here to look at build threads: http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=28 http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=273 Greg Thanks Greg. Lots of info to read through.
  4. I was told it was a rebuilt a couple years before my friend bought it then he had it in his showroom for a couple years before I bought it. Got it 1 1/2 years after I bought. Figure five years at least. No telling when the oil was changed.
  5. Hey Greg, I've had this car 10 years and only driven it 500 miles or less. The RHD thing is fairly unsettling. I love the lines of the car but hate to say it isn't built any better than a Mustang or Torino and the Lucas electrics are something to be revered. Once the power train is done I'm starting the body resto doing the engine compartment first. I'm contemplating changing the color as my Mach1 is already red & black. Was thinking about Cobra colors. Any threats of death ? Several years back there was a fellow in Oz who did a step by step documentation of the resto and creation of an XA coupe clone which he painted bright green. Has anyone else seen this website/posting and know where I can find it ? His work was awesome. He even made a die to stamp the non GT hood with recesses to fit the hood scoops. I'm looking for any and all info to help me speed this project along. Need to have it done by June. God Bless Leon Yup. That's what it came with. Here's what it wears now. I agree. To do this much work and not go all the was would be wreckless. Car will be much better once it's refinished. I'll take any help you can supply. Leon I agree. To do this much work and not go all the was would be wreckless. Car will be much better once it's refinished. I'll take any help you can supply. Leon
  6. The back story on my engine is it always had low vacuum @ 11inches. I had 150 psi in all cylinders until #1 took a dump. I put some oil in the cylinder and got 150 psi then back to zero. The valves were moving so I figured there was a problem with the piston. Put air into the cylinder after backing off both valves. Hear or felt nothing through the tailpipe or carb or intake but I did hear airflow into the crankcase. Today I pulled the engine and broke it down. Found the valve seats and guides were good. I put thinner in the cylinder and got a slow drip which was the same in all the cylinders which makes me think the rings are not damaged. When I pulled the cam I found the first lobe was wiped. Figured that might be the reason for the dead hole. I was told the engine was rebuild about 10K miles ago. The bore is std (4.000) with no lip at all. Crank is .010/.010. (Clevite 77 bearings) Rods show signs of being balanced (grinding on the caps). Looks like a billet roller chain with multi index crank sprocket. The heads are Aussie 2V with hardened exhaust seats and new valves. I have a Comp Cams 260H cam I plant to install along with a 525 Road Demon carb, tri-y headers and 2 1/4 dual exhaust and an AOD conversion. Not looking for neck snapping power. Instead I want a car I can take to the road for long trips. I promised my son we'd hit the road this summer. I'm planning on 3,000 miles so fuel efficiency is more important than all out power. I'm looking for opinions on cams, intakes, carbs ect. Am also divided between breaking it all down and install new rings, bearings and oil pump but since it had good oil pressure and I think a high volume pump to leave the bottom end alone. Opinions ? Thanks Leon
  7. I put both Hooker Super Comps and Comps on my 71 back in 1987. The Supers required cutting the fender apron and hung too low. I flattened all the bottom tubes in less than a month. Regular Hookers fit a bit tighter. Leon
  8. Can anyone shed some light on this part ? Thanks Leon
  9. Its for a 351C in my 1974 Falcon. Not looking to race just smooth reliable power and efficiency. Engine in a 2V and will run an AOD trans.
  10. Ive been waiting for this intake for years. Has anyone used it. What fuel rails and ECU are needed? Wire harness ect? Thanks Leon
  11. Looking for a good running drop in 351C. Has to be a runner. I'm located in NYC and will to travel a reasonable distance. Thanks Leon
  12. Well after tearing it 7/8 apart I thought for sure the intake wasn't sealed right. For years I was sure it was the cam as this had always been the issue in the big blocks I usually run regarding low vacuum. I should have listened to myself. I could have invested another 45 to remove the grille and a/c condenser but I didn't I thought I have evidence of another problem. I had nuts. Put it all back together and it's still only got 10" vacuum. As soon as the rain stops I'm going back to do the job right and swap the cam & lifters. I'm determined to drive this car this summer. Leon
  13. Yes, that is a definite. I have a complete Felpro kit. I was curious if others found evidence of gasket leaks under the intake. No valley pan.
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