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Mr Mach1

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Everything posted by Mr Mach1

  1. I agree with the high pressure over high volume as I'm using the stock oil pan. I was also considering the retro roller cam. My thought is the roller will give get more air in & out without the extra duration. This will make more power and still give me a good idle and vacuum. Have you ever used one of these cams or have first hand knowledge ? Was thinking of using the 7/16" stud conversion with roller rockers. Leon
  2. I'm using Sealed Power moly rings in my engine. The mfg says use a 400 grit hone which I think is kinda smooth. Was thinking of using a 320 flex hone. The cylinders are clean, straight and std. so I don't see any problem using the flex hone. Opinions ? Leon
  3. Hi Leon. I know a super custome Green one here that I thought was an XB. Go here to look at build threads: http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=28 http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=273 Greg Thanks Greg. Lots of info to read through.
  4. I was told it was a rebuilt a couple years before my friend bought it then he had it in his showroom for a couple years before I bought it. Got it 1 1/2 years after I bought. Figure five years at least. No telling when the oil was changed.
  5. Hey Greg, I've had this car 10 years and only driven it 500 miles or less. The RHD thing is fairly unsettling. I love the lines of the car but hate to say it isn't built any better than a Mustang or Torino and the Lucas electrics are something to be revered. Once the power train is done I'm starting the body resto doing the engine compartment first. I'm contemplating changing the color as my Mach1 is already red & black. Was thinking about Cobra colors. Any threats of death ? Several years back there was a fellow in Oz who did a step by step documentation of the resto and creation of an XA coupe clone which he painted bright green. Has anyone else seen this website/posting and know where I can find it ? His work was awesome. He even made a die to stamp the non GT hood with recesses to fit the hood scoops. I'm looking for any and all info to help me speed this project along. Need to have it done by June. God Bless Leon Yup. That's what it came with. Here's what it wears now. I agree. To do this much work and not go all the was would be wreckless. Car will be much better once it's refinished. I'll take any help you can supply. Leon I agree. To do this much work and not go all the was would be wreckless. Car will be much better once it's refinished. I'll take any help you can supply. Leon
  6. The back story on my engine is it always had low vacuum @ 11inches. I had 150 psi in all cylinders until #1 took a dump. I put some oil in the cylinder and got 150 psi then back to zero. The valves were moving so I figured there was a problem with the piston. Put air into the cylinder after backing off both valves. Hear or felt nothing through the tailpipe or carb or intake but I did hear airflow into the crankcase. Today I pulled the engine and broke it down. Found the valve seats and guides were good. I put thinner in the cylinder and got a slow drip which was the same in all the cylinders which makes me think the rings are not damaged. When I pulled the cam I found the first lobe was wiped. Figured that might be the reason for the dead hole. I was told the engine was rebuild about 10K miles ago. The bore is std (4.000) with no lip at all. Crank is .010/.010. (Clevite 77 bearings) Rods show signs of being balanced (grinding on the caps). Looks like a billet roller chain with multi index crank sprocket. The heads are Aussie 2V with hardened exhaust seats and new valves. I have a Comp Cams 260H cam I plant to install along with a 525 Road Demon carb, tri-y headers and 2 1/4 dual exhaust and an AOD conversion. Not looking for neck snapping power. Instead I want a car I can take to the road for long trips. I promised my son we'd hit the road this summer. I'm planning on 3,000 miles so fuel efficiency is more important than all out power. I'm looking for opinions on cams, intakes, carbs ect. Am also divided between breaking it all down and install new rings, bearings and oil pump but since it had good oil pressure and I think a high volume pump to leave the bottom end alone. Opinions ? Thanks Leon
  7. I put both Hooker Super Comps and Comps on my 71 back in 1987. The Supers required cutting the fender apron and hung too low. I flattened all the bottom tubes in less than a month. Regular Hookers fit a bit tighter. Leon
  8. Can anyone shed some light on this part ? Thanks Leon
  9. Its for a 351C in my 1974 Falcon. Not looking to race just smooth reliable power and efficiency. Engine in a 2V and will run an AOD trans.
  10. Ive been waiting for this intake for years. Has anyone used it. What fuel rails and ECU are needed? Wire harness ect? Thanks Leon
  11. Looking for a good running drop in 351C. Has to be a runner. I'm located in NYC and will to travel a reasonable distance. Thanks Leon
  12. Well after tearing it 7/8 apart I thought for sure the intake wasn't sealed right. For years I was sure it was the cam as this had always been the issue in the big blocks I usually run regarding low vacuum. I should have listened to myself. I could have invested another 45 to remove the grille and a/c condenser but I didn't I thought I have evidence of another problem. I had nuts. Put it all back together and it's still only got 10" vacuum. As soon as the rain stops I'm going back to do the job right and swap the cam & lifters. I'm determined to drive this car this summer. Leon
  13. Yes, that is a definite. I have a complete Felpro kit. I was curious if others found evidence of gasket leaks under the intake. No valley pan.
  14. I've had low vacuum since I got my car seven years ago (10-12"). I checked the intake manifold for leaks using all manor of sprays and didn't find any leaks. I had low vacuum (14-15") in a stroker FE engine which was due to a long duration cam so I planned a cam change. As the 351C engine was so extremely low I was sure the cam timing was off or the chain was shot. Today I pulled apart the front of the engine only to find quality double roller chain set straight up. On with the cam swap. When I loosened the first bolt I it made a hollow sound through the intake as did all of them. I've removed many intakes and none made that sound. Seems the only thing holding it down was the silicone on the end. The gaskets were black around the four inner ports. Looks to me like they were leaking from the lifter valley. I bet someone reused the gaskets and didn't tightened in sequence. I'm thinking to reseal and close up the engine and give it a try. Opinions ?
  15. Those must be those Ohio Specials I heard about :)
  16. Hello Leon; Please correct me if I'm wrong....But didn't the 1973 Mach 1 351 2V Ram Air car have the EGR plate?. That didn't have obviously a "Hood Closing" problem.....Mark Nope. The 2V was a non performance engine and didn't require EGR thus no plate. Leon
  17. I got no dog seat but I got the car. Wanted one since tenth grade when the movie came out. Same color too. Leon
  18. Bumpers are really hard to straighten even for professionals. Better to replace. Contact Don at Ohio Mustang. While it may cost you a couple hundred to have prepped and painted it'll be a painless bolt on and your car will look even better instantly. You'll go madtrying to push on your bumper without cracking the paint. Given the force needed to move the steel inside the rubber will compress and crack the paint far sooner.
  19. The reason the 73 351C 4V didn't come with ram air is because that year used an EGR plate for emissions making the carb too high to use ram air. You'll need to remove the EGR plate if its installed. I you dont the hood wont close. You can swap in an Edelbrock Performer while you're at it for a couple hp. Leon
  20. Timing is always BTDC (before). Disconnect the vacuum advance off the dist and plug first. I set mine at 8 BTDC with 32-36 total at 3300 rpm. You might have to adjust tge carb after. Regards Leon
  21. Cool, so you know the car. You've done this before ? Hey 72HCode. I agree with all you've said. While I haven't done much in the last few years I've had the car for about eight years and went through all you suggested many years ago. I've been busy with family and my business the last few years is why is sat. I started by replacing the plugs, then rebuilding the carb followed by a Petronix ignitor, wires & coil. Checked for vacuum leaks then installed a new Demon carb. I did everything one at a time to diagnose the problem with no improvement. This led me to the cam being retarded. I've done it once myself. The engine ran decent but not good. Turned I misread the cheap timing set I used and installed it 2 degree's retarded. Set it to straight up and it came alive. Luckily it was a 327 Chevy in a 55 Nomad and the whole job took only a few hours. Pulling the timing cover on a SBC is cake compared to a Ford. Leon
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