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stanger73

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About stanger73

  • Rank
    Is that a Mustang?

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    73 Mach 1 Q Code. 351 Cleveland with a C-6. Wimbledon White.

Location

  • Location
    Muskego, WI
  1. Sooo..... Do you have specs on your engine build. Hard to provide areas to look at with only knowing you have a Cleveland with a 670 Street Avenger. My gut tells me that the intake wasn’t properly seated (ask me how I know) and that it won’t idle any lower because it has a massive vacuum leak internally (pulling air, and likely oil) into the combustion chamber. This would cause a massive lean condition at idle. The plugs would tell you that immediately. Again, I am only speculating without having more details. I have have been wrenching on Clevelands since the late 80’s. I have had
  2. I think you are missing allot of details, before you start randomly looking at causes for a high idle and engine stalling. A large cam will result in an engine that will not idle well. Poorly adjusted valves will result in a poor idle. A poorly seated intake will cause an internal vacuum leak at the base of the ports, and result in an engine that won’t idle well. Spitting out of the carb is generally a timing and or lean condition. All could be impacted by what what I just described, and there are many other contributing factors besides these. So- Give some details about the engine b
  3. I think you are missing allot of details, before you start randomly looking at causes for a high idle and engine stalling. A large lift, short duration cam will result in an engine that will not idle well. Poorly adjusted valves will result in a poor idle. A poorly seated intake will cause an internal vacuum leak at the base of the ports, and result in an engine that won’t idle well. Spitting out of the carb is generally a timing and or lean condition. All could be impacted by what what I just described, and there are many other contributing factors besides these. So- Give some detai
  4. If you are running a Durasprark or MSD distributor, check the magnetic pickup on the distributor. I had an intermittent issue with my 73 that I could not figure out. The car would run fine, and then shut off randomly while driving. When testing the resistance on the magnetic pickup while the engine was cold, it tested fine. When it got hot, the pickup would fault, and the circuit would open. Replaced the magnetic pickup, and problem solved.
  5. If you are mechanically inclined, the FMX is a fairly straight forward transmission to rebuild. Kenneth Collins of Bad Shoe Productions sales a step by step video series that walks you through disassembly and rebuild of the transmission, as well as sells some ofthe specialty tools needed for the rebuild. I rebuilt the FMX in my 69 Mach 1 and 73 Mach 1 this past year using his video and clutch compressor tool. I believe he is selling the rebuild kits as well. I was able to rebuild both transmissions, with parts, convertors, bands and all for less than I was quoted for 1 rebuild. It is
  6. That weight sounds about right. I used a floor jack to balance the 3rd member on, and then lowered it down very carefully. The key is to get it to rest on the bottom of the bolt flange and ring gear while lowering it.
  7. I have a FMX in my 69 Mach 1 and my 73 Mach 1. I rebuilt both of them in the past year. I have worked on cars for years, but had not rebuilt a transmission before. I ordered the FMX video from Bad Shoe Productions, and found it very straight forward. Ken is very knowledgable on the transmissions. I purchased the spring compressor tool from Ken. I purchased the outer lip seal tool used from a transmission tool company. As far as the transmission jack- I bored a hole in a 1x10 board and bolted it to the pad on my floor jack. Worked flawlessly after a little elbow grease.
  8. When I changed from point to Pertronix on my 69 Mach 1, the timing changed (advanced) and I had to reset it. I would suspect that the same happened to you as well. i agree with Barnett468’s recommendations.
  9. I just converted the AC on my 69 over to R-134a this week. You can unscrew the the low pressure valve cap and crack open the valve on the compressor. It has a square shank on the end. Rotating it clockwise opens it.
  10. Did he end up going with the Duraspark setup? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. And the metal line that 73pony has pictured was missing on my car. Someone had used a high pressure line off of a 250, which will work without the metal extension tube, but rubs against the master cylinder. The metal tube that is pictured, I ordered from West Coast Cougar. They sell good, used, hard to find parts. I highly recommend them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I bought my replacement lines from Autozone. Wasn’t worried about getting the Ford part number for the replacement. They have worked great so far.
  13. The tach was connected through the factory pink resistor wire. The resistor wire provided the 1.5 ohm resistance that allowed the tach to read correctly. I still have my wiring diagrams from when I rewired my car with a painless kit about 5 years ago with the Duraspark setup. Unfortunately, I am in Europe right now and wont be back in the states until the 1st of August. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I had The Duraspark setup on my 73 Mach I with factory tach. It worked great for years. I recently switched to the MSD 6AL and the tach adapter. Did you have a wiring question? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 1973 Q Code Mach 1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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