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  • My Car
    1973 Mach 1 Q code


  • Location
    USA, KY

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  1. Well guys the car sold as a complete project, I am very happy the new owner plans on completing what I started in lieu of parting it out, this is a really good car and it deserves to be put back together.
  2. Here is some more information: Door Tag: Body - 63R Color - 3B Trim - GB Trans - U Axle - 9 DSO - 47 Heads - GA D1AE Block - DOAE-L Intake - DOAE-9425-L Vin - 3FO5Q170585 Below is a list of NEW parts that I have and a link to the Craigslist add I just posted, I think the price is a steel with all the parts, I know I could get a lot more out of the car if I parted it all out. The only original part I am missing is the Autolite Carb, it has an Edelbrock on it right now. http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/4069773025.html Partial parts list: Magnum 500 wheels and BFG tires $1488.75 Factory exhaust system with factory chrome tips and all hangers $532.75 Complete front suspension kit $399 Front sway bar kit $109.95 Front brake rotors $159.90 Front brake calipers $149.95 Front caliper hard ware kit $37.95 Front brake pads $26.95 Front wheel bearings and seals $43.70 Front brake hoses $69.90 Front brake lines (engine compartment) $51.95 Master cylinder $79.50 Front to rear brake line $39.95 Rear axle brake line kit $28.95 Rear brake hose $39.95 Parking brake cables $55.90 Rear brake drums $99.9 Rear brake shoes $39.95 Rear brake hardware kit $32.95 Front to rear fuel lines $64.95 Battery tray $9.95 Bump stops $27.00 Battery cable kit $49.95 Brake / fuel line clip kit $59.95 Rear shackle kit $15.00 Radiator hoses w/ clamps 46.95 Heater hoses $29.50 Wheel well moldings $99.80 Mach 1 Grill $164.95 Axle bearings and seals $65.00 Rear end gaskets $12.00 Exhaust manifold gaskets $18.00 Replacement floor panels $141.00 Ford (not reproduction) 4V air breather w/ chrome lid $250.00 Ford (not reproduction) 4V exhaust manifolds $275.00 Rotisserie $600.00 The reason I am selling it, is pretty simple. I have four kids, 15,11, and twin 6 year olds, and my wife's job is only part time, while I can always come up with the money one way or another, there is nothing I can do to fabricate more time, and my children are involved in tons of great extras that take a lot of my time as well, which is a good thing. I feel I have two options, one roll the car to the corner of the garage for 10-15 years and then finish it, or sell it. I have thought about this for some time, and believe this is best. I have not been without a Mustang of some model for 20 years, so I hope to buy a Fox body that I can tinker with and drive with the boys, but I just don't have the time for a project like this one.
  3. Yes I would, you can call me at 8598061170 , Rick
  4. I can get you codes you need when I get home tonight, but I am in Lexington, it is a C6 auto, 9" 3.0, and it was originally light blue with blue interior.
  5. I have decided to sell my 73 Mach1, but I can't make up my mind if I should sell it as a project or part it out. It is a shame to bust it up because the body is excellent, and the car is 100% complete, just disassembled. The body has been stripped and coated in PPG epoxy, the fenders, doors, hood, trunk, are all perfect, but still need to be stripped. The interior is complete, door panels cracked, but the wood grain and chrome are great, all the chrome on the car is excellent, front urethane bumper excellent, with shocks. wiring harness complete and in great shape. Everything in the car is original but the motor was replaced under warranty in 73, and apparently they put a 71 model 351 4V closed chamber head motor according to the casting numbers. The car is a "Q" code car. Photo of car before tear down.
  6. I am fine with the earlier model engine, I am looking to build or rebuild a period correct car. I could care less about a #'s matching, and like the fact that I may have better heads. When I open the hood I want it to look correct (no windsor setting in there), but other than that I just want the best combination I can put together on my budget. Thanks Guys
  7. I have a 73 Mach 1, 351 4V, Q code that I picked up last fall that I am having a blast working on. Starting out with the basics, new suspension, brakes, fuel system and so on. I am confused as to what motor I have, it was supposed to be original, but: Block casting # DOAE-L Date code OG9 (should be June 9, 1970) Heads Date code OF29 ( should be May 29,1970), Heads do have "4" on the upper corners. Intake casting # DOAE-9425-L What model Cleveland do you think I have.
  8. I thought that was the case, thanks for the help.
  9. I just received my new from the manifolds back 2.25" exhaust system for my 73 Mach 1 351 4V w/ staggered shocks, it all looks great but the tail pipes look the same, but mirror image of each other. I had expected the left tail pipe to be somewhat different to route around the shock. Is this correct, or do I need a different tail pipe?
  10. I just picked up a new set of arms, and they have the same clearance issue (Scott Drake). I don't understand how someone could try to use 65-66 arms, as the mounting bolt spacing is different (3.75" for the 65-66 and 4.75" for the 67-73). I believe its just the fact that Scott Drake did not take in consideration the extra support brace that is in the spring towers of the 71-73, and the 67-70 does not have this brace. This is a case where they try to make one part fit all. The Scott drake arms are a good quality part (as far as repop part go). It does stink to cut on a brand new part.
  11. I know a 245 0r a 255 will work fine on a 7" or 8" wide rim, if using a 15" wheel and 60 series tire. the question is clearance, the 8' wide wheels will without a dout make the tire look better (meatier), but I don't want any fender lip rubbing in the rear if the suspension allows the body to drop down over the tire, I want the body to set about even with the top of the tire. I don't want the inside lip of the front wheel to conflict with upper A arm as some have complained. Most 7" wide wheels have 4.25" Backspacing, and the 8" wide wheels have 4.5" backspacing. The American Racing Ansen Sprints that I want actualy use a 4" backspacing on their 7" wide wheel, which would help the A arm clearance and the clearance between the tire and the driverside inner frame rail during a hard left turn, and a 7" wheel with a 4" backspacing in the rear would move the outside edge of the tire in 1/2" to allow a little more clearance, but dang-gon-it, the 8" wide wheels look so good. Is it really this hard.
  12. I have decided on the wheel and tire for My 73 Mach, I plan on getting American Racing Ansen Sprints (Slots) and using the ford center caps, I plan on running 245-60's in front, and 255-60's in the rear, I want just a slight larger tire in the rear and want the car to have a very slight rake. The question is if I should go with 15x7's or 15x8's, i want the same size all around so the dish is the same for appearaces. I know the 8" wheel will look better and make the tire appear wider. I want the fender lips to set just above or even with the top of the tire, and do not want it to rub during suspension movement. The 8's have 4.5 backspacing, and the 7" have 4" backspacing, I know the 7's will clear everywhere, not sure about the 8's
  13. Between my prostate cancer and my wife's breast cancer and still having young children at home I understand your fears, keep your head up, be strong your wife needs you right now and find someone you can talk to, don't hold it all in (been there done that). Our prayes are with the both of you brother.
  14. I have a 79 f100 SWB and love it, my wife and daughter love driving it to cruise ins when me and the boys take the Mach 1. I just finished a crown vic front end swap this winter, can't wait to drive it. While I tend to agree with the others on the price it all depends on the quality of the work that has been done if you consider a good paint job with no real body work will cost $3 k, chrome bumpers and trim $1 k, interior $1k, wheels and tires $1-1.5 k, suspension and brake and steering $1 k, engine and trans work $2-5k, you could easily spend a lot more plus the cost of the truck plus your labor. I never include my labor because I like it and that is why I mess with these old Fords but just something to keep in mine while looking. Also when I bought mine I told my wife the same thing, just for hauling stuff around the house now it sets 6" lower has a crown vic front end and has a worked over 351 in it, I think she new better from the beginning after 25 years.
  15. I really only need the traction bars, but if the price is right I will consider a package deal, what is the ride height like with those springs? Do you have any photos of the car with them on it? Send me an email if you want to discuss. Thanks
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