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rutkak last won the day on October 23 2013

rutkak had the most liked content!

About rutkak

  • Birthday 07/09/1978

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    -Former 70 & 72 Mustang coupes owner.
    -69 Torino GT, Formal Roof, 351W, Edelbrock 600 cfm, dual plane high rise intake, long tube headers, AOD trans, dual flowmasters, Pertronix II Billet, 3.5 TRACLOC g/r, 15" Magnum 500s, 100A alt, mini-starter
    -70 Mach 1, 351W, FMX


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    Carlisle, PA
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  1. Justin, I think you either have a loose power connection to your ignition coil or you have a short (i.e. 12V hitting a ground) somewhere in your system. The power connection to the coil is a fun one because it comes from 2 sources depending if you are cranking or running, but that would be my main guess. Ken
  2. Gentlemen, Although I respect the heck out of folks that try to stay as original as they can, this is another example of when getting newer technology pays off. I recommend a one-wire, high amp, internally regulated alternator so you never have to mess with stuff like this again. The same thing happened to me 7-8 years ago and I vowed to never let it happen again. Ken
  3. Folks, Another great way of making your dash and headlight brighter is to install a headlight relay. Your headlights pulls juice through the instrument cluster and this keeps the headlight power going straight to the battery. It's an easy install that takes 1-2 hrs depending on how anal retentive you are on wiring. I also removed the blue defusers. LEDs are good but generally don't allow you to dim the lights (may or may not be a big deal). You can get blue LEDs which look pretty close. KR
  4. Sticky valve needle IMHO. I had this one 1 Edelbrock and a Chevy 4 bbl stock 84 Carb. Just take it apart and clean it up. I'd also check the float height. I've had to adjust 3x Edelbrock 1405/1406 out of the box because it was too high and I'd flood when hitting turns. I love Edelbrock carbs personally.
  5. My guess is out of sequence plug wires or massive vacuum leak, (i.e. something is disconnected like the PCV or brake booster. KR
  6. You know, that's just one beautiful car. The wiring near the starter relay looks ... pristine. I bet Midlife is drooling over it. KR
  7. I swear by POR-15. I used in on the floor of my barn-find 70 Mustang. It's great stuff but make sure you get the two prep solutions, I think one is a cleaner and another one is rust converter. Must wear gloves, but that stuff is the real deal. Note that it takes awhile to dry, especially with humidity. I also like POR's body putty. I've used it to fill in floorboard holes and other minor stuff. It dries to a substances harder than concrete and I'm not kidding. POR-15 isn't cheap, but its quality and I swear by it. Note it shouldn't be used in any area that will get direct sunlight and you have to get some other type of POR product if you want to paint it. So I'd use it for floorboards and undercarriage, maybe trunk.
  8. 31 yrs old and just got back from Afghanistan with extra $ in my hand. My first car was almost a 71 Mustang w/351C but my Dad test drove it and said "you ain't getting that car, you'll kill yourself." Years later I picked up a 72 coupe, brown and ginger brown, white top.
  9. Oh yes, roger that. The PO of my Torino routed around the radiator cooler and went with a cheap Haynes after-market cooler....probably because the radiator was shot as it was. I replaced the radiator and added the trans cooler lines back to it so mine routes: Upper AOD (hot out) - inline tee temp - radiator trans in - radiator trans out - B&M trans cooler in - B&M trans cooler out - Lower AOD (cool in). I don't put much stock in the radiator trans cooler and I tend to go with overkill when it comes to cooling and 45 yr old cars especially because I've lived in GA, NC, VA and I'll be moving to TX in about a year. Necessary? Maybe not, but it can't hurt and gives me a lil piece of mind. In my opinion having the pressure gauge is an absolute must. My end pressure is actually 44 psi. It sits at zero in N with zero throttle and immediately creeps up when I give her some gas. -KR
  10. I had 2x Grant Steering wheels that did the same thing. I'll never buy them again. If I popped the horn button on the only way to get it to stay on was to turn it a little so it was crooked. Although they look nice, I'll never buy one of them again. KR
  11. Just my 2 cents, but after owning 4 older Fords (72 Mustang, 70 Mustang, 66 Galaxie and 69 Torino GT) I recommend 15 inch Magnum 500s from CJPony Parts. I recommend the package deal, mounted and balanced with Radial TAs where they come with the center caps and lugs. Just spend the money and they'll look great for years. I've owned plenty of 14x6 Magnums but in retrospect they look like roller skate wheels and MIGHT have fitment issues with aftermarket disc brakes.
  12. I second Mr. 4x4 - change all fluids first. What carb do you have? You might need to lean up the idle and / or metering rods / jets if it's running rich. You also may need to adjust the chock or chock pull-off on start up so that it's getting a proper amount of air. KR
  13. Hello Forum, I'm running a 90 AOD in a 69 Torino with a 351W with mild upgrades. There are three things I have not heard mention in this post and having lived this pain I thought I'd share some AAR notes. 1). I didn't notice in this post any mention of the throttle / TV geometry corrector. I'm running the Lokar throttle cable and AOD cable. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SOX-AS5-05K. 2). Homemade Lokar TV cable helper spring to pull the pressure back to near zero when there is no accelerator. This installs on the trans pan pulling the spring back to zero idle. The Lokar spring is pretty weak so it's fairly common to add a helper spring to pull it back when there is no acceleration. 3). Trans cooler. Going from an FMX to AOD requires some additional cooling (or so I'm told) so add a nice, high-end B&M trans cooler in front of your radiator. My radiator did not have trans cooler provisions in it. A few other notes: 35 psi of pressure was too little on my trans but the most important thing (to me) was to ensure that I immediately got pressure when applying the accelerator. My TV pressure ended up being about 42 psi after tuning. Anything less and it sounds like my trans was grinding when downshifting from 2-1. I added trans temp and pressure gauges in a discreet spot in my engine bay to ensure nothing zany was going on. Any time you adjust the idle you'll need to adjust your TV cable. 1/4 turn on the TV actually goes a long way. No need to burn up a trans. I'd add them in the interior but I don't have space. -KR
  14. Go with dual Flowmaster 40s but make sure you get an H or X pipe in there or the drone at high speeds with give you a headache. -KR
  15. If your fuel gauge is not getting power you can jumper it to the power output of the constant voltage regulator (CVR). I've done this on two 68-69 Torino circuit boards since they are impossible to find in good condition and the power is the outer line which always getting broken over time. You'll need 1/2 of a 9V battery terminal receptacle (Home Depot or Radio Shack) spliced into a ring connector for the fuel gauge power. The 9v battery terminal can be cannibalized from an alarm clock or smoke alarm. Just trace the line from the CVR and it should go to one of the fuel gauge terminals on the board. Only connect the output of the CVR to the terminal. You must have 5V for the fuel gauge or bad things happen. Sounds complex, but it's pretty easy. I'd also get a solid state CVR from CJPonyParts. It's a must have. KR Here's an amazon link of the part I'm talking about. http://www.amazon.com/Pacific-Science-Supply-Battery-Connector/dp/B001F39728
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